silverdollar
New Member
It's been almost 2 weeks now and I can't cure my Pleco or my DoJo. I've used ick medication for a week now I have them quarantined in a 10 gallon tank and I'm using a salt treatment now. Any suggestions?
ick won't leave my plec
- Thread starter silverdollar
- Start date
silverdollar
New Member
The medication was dosed once a day and I finished yesterday. I read the info on that link regarding small scaled fish. What approach should be taken when treating small scaled fish if medications do not work?
Danny - the lost soul---
Fishaholic
What kinda medication are you using ?
IME many meds do not catch it first time around. The quality of the meds and the dose has alot to do also. I am NOT one to use Meds UNLESS it means Life Or death. ich is one of those cases.
I use Maracide by Mardel Labs. I have used it for years and ALWAYS get rid of the ick within the treatment time.
Most times before treatment is scheduled to end. This Medication will tinge the tank a slight greenish color but is removed once treatment is over with some freash carbon and a water change.
This meds cures a wide variety of external parasites and I highly reccomend it. I have used and still got several other brands / kinds of ich meds that I personaly didn't find as affective.
I have used and some times use Quick Cure but again it's NOT as affective with the ich.
Now you know ick can and will rermain dormant even if there are no sighs of infections. If you are medicating the tank and stop or meds were not powerfull enough it MAY appear the ich is gone but it can be dormant and return normally is higher numbers and a worse out break.
Me, all I do is treat as needed: 1 drop per gallon every 24 hrs for 5 days. And normally within 3-4 it's done and gone. I do a good 30-40 % water change, add freash carbon and within hours walla. Good as new.
I use salt during water changes so I never really add some more nor do I even add when treating for ich. In the cooloer months I will run the heaters to assure the temp does NOT drop to fast nor get too cold. This is most times the main cause for an ich outbreak.
I personally have problemns if any during the winter months. Cold water fish are affected or stand a better chance of getting ich when temps get warm. And vise a versa for warm water fish ( most cichlids ) are affected when temps get to cold. Secondary inffections, bad tank maint., can also and will make the odds of ich higher.
What is ich ? Ready ? hehehehehe
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
Means " fish louse with many children" It was named as so because one parasite can produce as many as 600 - 1,200 youngsters.
The parasite penetrates the mucous coat here the growth process begins. The parasite feeds on red blood corpuscles and degenerated epithelial cells.
When after some days in the fishs skin the parasite matures. Now it's time to leave the host (fish) for reproduction. The mature parasites having left the host, sinks to the bottom and starts to go through even more changes, here it secretes a soft, jelly like cyst.
Here is where the water temp makes a diff on the time it takes to develope and time / extent of infection accours.
The speed of this process depends on the temperature of the water: normaly about 12 - 18 hours. Approx. 36 hours after the mature parasite has left the host, the youngsters will be swimming in a lively manner in search of a host.
Now the parasite has already entered the fish, ate, left to reproduce and the young are now in search of food a host ( your fish )
Thus, in the aquarium the parasite leaves the fish (s) periodiclly, but the fishes are infected again and again and everytime evn worse.
Developement of ich in the aquarium takes diff times, depending again on the temp of the water.
From 78-80 *F the parasite will leave the fish 3-4 days AFTER the spots were viss. to to naked eye. At temps lower than 70* this period can take up to 4 WEEKS or more. Thus, increasing the temp will decrease the time that the parasite remains in / on the fish. But, it ALSO shortens the time before reinfection occurs.
Raising the temp should ALWAYS be combined with some form of medication ( Maracide IMO ) HEAT ALONE WILL NOT KILL THEm. oops sorry cap lock.
The young parasite can not life long without a host and die within a few days if non is present. At longest a free swimming parasite can / or will not survive longer than 55 hours without a host. YOUNG parasite that is, still got the mature ones to tend to . Meds and raising the temp.
As I mentioned prior, most cases of ich occur in autum and winter, If a completely healthy fish is infected by one or two parasites it will not suffer muchy, and if the tank is NOT crowded the chances of reinfection are NOT to great.
In such cases, infection may remain in a latent stage for a long period,since the parasites in the skin of the fish it will grow very slowly and consequently no symptoms of ich will appear.
However, if the resistance of the fish is weakend by unsuitable conditions the parasite will have a better chance and THEN the epidemic may accur.
This explains why epidemics often appear when tropicals are kept at too low temps., while on the contrary, in cold water fish epidemics may accur at too high temps.
Now here is the kicker,
Cysts of ich can often be found on water plants, which explains and is how most time these parasites are smuggled from tank to tank. Ever bought a fish that appeared healthy and when you get it home and put it in your tank walla. ICH. As I mentioned above there are a few factors that can and will contribute to ich and also how long in lingers around.
There, Hope this helps and Hope you enjoy my Mini Book. LOLOLOL You Guys were warned....
Increase aireation, Do a partial water change to eliminate previously used meds, get some GOOD affective Meds ( Maracide), cut back on feedings till problem is under control. I am surprised a bit though because plecos are normally the last ones to get / show signs of ich. Must be a pretty tough outbreak.
Danny
IME many meds do not catch it first time around. The quality of the meds and the dose has alot to do also. I am NOT one to use Meds UNLESS it means Life Or death. ich is one of those cases.
I use Maracide by Mardel Labs. I have used it for years and ALWAYS get rid of the ick within the treatment time.
Most times before treatment is scheduled to end. This Medication will tinge the tank a slight greenish color but is removed once treatment is over with some freash carbon and a water change.
This meds cures a wide variety of external parasites and I highly reccomend it. I have used and still got several other brands / kinds of ich meds that I personaly didn't find as affective.
I have used and some times use Quick Cure but again it's NOT as affective with the ich.
Now you know ick can and will rermain dormant even if there are no sighs of infections. If you are medicating the tank and stop or meds were not powerfull enough it MAY appear the ich is gone but it can be dormant and return normally is higher numbers and a worse out break.
Me, all I do is treat as needed: 1 drop per gallon every 24 hrs for 5 days. And normally within 3-4 it's done and gone. I do a good 30-40 % water change, add freash carbon and within hours walla. Good as new.
I use salt during water changes so I never really add some more nor do I even add when treating for ich. In the cooloer months I will run the heaters to assure the temp does NOT drop to fast nor get too cold. This is most times the main cause for an ich outbreak.
I personally have problemns if any during the winter months. Cold water fish are affected or stand a better chance of getting ich when temps get warm. And vise a versa for warm water fish ( most cichlids ) are affected when temps get to cold. Secondary inffections, bad tank maint., can also and will make the odds of ich higher.
What is ich ? Ready ? hehehehehe
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
Means " fish louse with many children" It was named as so because one parasite can produce as many as 600 - 1,200 youngsters.
The parasite penetrates the mucous coat here the growth process begins. The parasite feeds on red blood corpuscles and degenerated epithelial cells.
When after some days in the fishs skin the parasite matures. Now it's time to leave the host (fish) for reproduction. The mature parasites having left the host, sinks to the bottom and starts to go through even more changes, here it secretes a soft, jelly like cyst.
Here is where the water temp makes a diff on the time it takes to develope and time / extent of infection accours.
The speed of this process depends on the temperature of the water: normaly about 12 - 18 hours. Approx. 36 hours after the mature parasite has left the host, the youngsters will be swimming in a lively manner in search of a host.
Now the parasite has already entered the fish, ate, left to reproduce and the young are now in search of food a host ( your fish )
Thus, in the aquarium the parasite leaves the fish (s) periodiclly, but the fishes are infected again and again and everytime evn worse.
Developement of ich in the aquarium takes diff times, depending again on the temp of the water.
From 78-80 *F the parasite will leave the fish 3-4 days AFTER the spots were viss. to to naked eye. At temps lower than 70* this period can take up to 4 WEEKS or more. Thus, increasing the temp will decrease the time that the parasite remains in / on the fish. But, it ALSO shortens the time before reinfection occurs.
Raising the temp should ALWAYS be combined with some form of medication ( Maracide IMO ) HEAT ALONE WILL NOT KILL THEm. oops sorry cap lock.
The young parasite can not life long without a host and die within a few days if non is present. At longest a free swimming parasite can / or will not survive longer than 55 hours without a host. YOUNG parasite that is, still got the mature ones to tend to . Meds and raising the temp.
As I mentioned prior, most cases of ich occur in autum and winter, If a completely healthy fish is infected by one or two parasites it will not suffer muchy, and if the tank is NOT crowded the chances of reinfection are NOT to great.
In such cases, infection may remain in a latent stage for a long period,since the parasites in the skin of the fish it will grow very slowly and consequently no symptoms of ich will appear.
However, if the resistance of the fish is weakend by unsuitable conditions the parasite will have a better chance and THEN the epidemic may accur.
This explains why epidemics often appear when tropicals are kept at too low temps., while on the contrary, in cold water fish epidemics may accur at too high temps.
Now here is the kicker,
Cysts of ich can often be found on water plants, which explains and is how most time these parasites are smuggled from tank to tank. Ever bought a fish that appeared healthy and when you get it home and put it in your tank walla. ICH. As I mentioned above there are a few factors that can and will contribute to ich and also how long in lingers around.
There, Hope this helps and Hope you enjoy my Mini Book. LOLOLOL You Guys were warned....
Increase aireation, Do a partial water change to eliminate previously used meds, get some GOOD affective Meds ( Maracide), cut back on feedings till problem is under control. I am surprised a bit though because plecos are normally the last ones to get / show signs of ich. Must be a pretty tough outbreak.
Danny
silverdollar
New Member
Well I started treating my dojo and plec with Malachite Green yesterday. Supposed to clear ick in 2 days but it doesn't say anything about small scaled or scaless fish. So far the ick is still there. Guess I'll wait a few days and see what happens.
Danny - the lost soul---
Fishaholic
IMO you are wasting your time with that med.
Did you even read the reply above. ?
IMO / IME the BEST medication for ick is MARACIDE by Mardel Labs. Within the treatment time ( 5 days ) the parasite and it's young are gone. If you continue using meds and they are not working all you are doing is making the parasite imune to the medication and then it can be harder to rid.
Most meds contain basicly the same ingredients but some higher contents. Others like the one mentioned just seems to have the right combination.
Active ingredients: complex of: Tris ( hydroxymethyl ) aminnomethane,Dibromohydroxymercurifuorescein,Aniline green, which is what gives treated tanks that greenish tinge.
That DOES go away after treatment and a partial water change.
Now I did not make those names up I swear. LOLOL... geesh
Good Luck, Danny
Did you even read the reply above. ?
IMO / IME the BEST medication for ick is MARACIDE by Mardel Labs. Within the treatment time ( 5 days ) the parasite and it's young are gone. If you continue using meds and they are not working all you are doing is making the parasite imune to the medication and then it can be harder to rid. Most meds contain basicly the same ingredients but some higher contents. Others like the one mentioned just seems to have the right combination.
Active ingredients: complex of: Tris ( hydroxymethyl ) aminnomethane,Dibromohydroxymercurifuorescein,Aniline green, which is what gives treated tanks that greenish tinge.
That DOES go away after treatment and a partial water change.
Now I did not make those names up I swear. LOLOL... geesh
Good Luck, Danny
silverdollar
New Member
Thanks for the reply Danny. I'm gonna go pick up some Maracide tomorrow and give it a shot. Seems to be the best medication since a number of people have mentioned it to me.
cichlidmaster
Fish Gatherer
- Joined
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SD,
I totally agree with Danny,
Maracide is THE best ICH med here in the states.
Please remember to do a good water change (25-50% IMO) before adding the new medication.
Also remember to raise the water temp up to at least 82 degrees.
Also remember, not only is adding all these different meds going to make the parasite immune, but it places a hell of a lot of stress on the fish.
Stress + ICH most times = death.
Please, if the maracide does not work the first time (and it may not) do as the directions say and RE-TREAT with it. DO NOT go to another med thinking the maracide is no good.
Believe me, maracide is the only ICH med I keep and use. There is no better!!!!
Good Luck!!
CM
I totally agree with Danny,
Maracide is THE best ICH med here in the states.
Please remember to do a good water change (25-50% IMO) before adding the new medication.
Also remember to raise the water temp up to at least 82 degrees.
Also remember, not only is adding all these different meds going to make the parasite immune, but it places a hell of a lot of stress on the fish.
Stress + ICH most times = death.
Please, if the maracide does not work the first time (and it may not) do as the directions say and RE-TREAT with it. DO NOT go to another med thinking the maracide is no good.
Believe me, maracide is the only ICH med I keep and use. There is no better!!!!
Good Luck!!
CM
Danny - the lost soul---
Fishaholic
There you go, spoken like a true fish...
Was wondering when I was going to get some help here. lololol
danny
Was wondering when I was going to get some help here. lololol
danny
cichlidmaster
Fish Gatherer
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2002
- Messages
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- Reaction score
- 2
Isn't THAT the pot calling the kettle black.....
Danny calling ME a HO 
Danny is great for typo's
CM
Danny calling ME a HO
Danny is great for typo's
CM
Danny - the lost soul---
Fishaholic
ROTFLMAO,
yeap got to watch them typos. LOLOLOl I am very well known for them. My fingers sometimes move faster than my brain / thoughs. But I think we have learn to descramble my typing.
Danny
Remember you are talking / typing with 2 finger Tom. Well now it's four finger Fred. You could only type so fast and so accurate with 4 fingers. LOLOLOL Guess I should have payed more attention in school at typing class. LOLOLOL
yeap got to watch them typos. LOLOLOl I am very well known for them. My fingers sometimes move faster than my brain / thoughs. But I think we have learn to descramble my typing.
Danny
Remember you are talking / typing with 2 finger Tom. Well now it's four finger Fred. You could only type so fast and so accurate with 4 fingers. LOLOLOL Guess I should have payed more attention in school at typing class. LOLOLOL
silverdollar
New Member
Well I just got home about an hour ago. I got off work and stopped at the local pet store before I went home and pickup some Maracide. Well anyways I got home and to my amazement my fish have cleared up quite well since this morning. Seems that the Malachite Green is working after all, just needed time I guess. I'll give it a few more days and see if it totally clears up.
I have a question. If all visual signs of the ick are gone from the fish(if I see no white spots) is it safe to say that the fish are cured and safe to put back into the other tank with the other fish?
I have a question. If all visual signs of the ick are gone from the fish(if I see no white spots) is it safe to say that the fish are cured and safe to put back into the other tank with the other fish?
Danny - the lost soul---
Fishaholic
Glad to hear they are doing better. Now, yes and no.
If the ich is not viss. on the fish it can be safe to say it's gone. But, ich can remain dormant and could be in the free swimming stage. Most likely by how it sounds the med you used may have nipped it.
Still I would FINISH the FULL treatment first before calling it safe. Once you complete treatment do a water change and leave them for at least 2-4 days before you place them back.
The water change will help clean out the meds and it will not be as much of a shock to the fish going from medicated water to nice clean non medicated water. This in itself CAN bring on ich.
YEA ! stress,drop in temp,introduction by fish or plants,
overcrowding and a few more ressons can cause or contribute to ick.
So I would try and take EXTRA percaution just to assure it's safe.
Now, also something to remember is, a fish could infect another fish or tank even if he / she DO NOT show signs of ich. the could be infected but not on a severe stage and infect others to the max. Here I speak from FIRST hand experience.
Normally I will treat the whole tank even if only 1 fish looks sick.
Most my tanks are loaded and it is a nightmare to try and catch a fish. Anyways, Once I cought the sick fish and treated them. 5 days treated, water change and left them for a few days. They were fine or at least I thought. Yeap ! once they returned home within a week the whole tank was infected.
That was the first and last time I removed a fish to treat for ick. Best is to treat the WHOLE tank. This assures that there is no ich on fish nor in the latent stages of developement. the downfall here is it takes alot more meds than it would treating a small tank.
at 1 drop per gallon it takes forever to do a 125. Even a 55 for that matter. So now i get the big big bottles. Well they are 1 gal. jugs. If the wholesaler can not locate the 1g I get a few 16 oz bottles. Yes it's alot but best safe than sorry. it is very smart as a hobbiest to keep on hand the more common meds. An example is ich, very common and the worst is letting it go a day or two cause you don't have meds.
Most meds do have a shelf life but for the most part I have never had a problem with them going bad. Would be a wise choice to keep some on hand. Whats common ? ich, bloat, pop eye, droopsy, swim bladder disease, anchor worms ( goldfish mostly ) there are many many more common diseases that you can treat IF the meds are avail. Long stiry short, keep the ich med on hand.
Hope my ramble answered your question,
danny
If the ich is not viss. on the fish it can be safe to say it's gone. But, ich can remain dormant and could be in the free swimming stage. Most likely by how it sounds the med you used may have nipped it.
Still I would FINISH the FULL treatment first before calling it safe. Once you complete treatment do a water change and leave them for at least 2-4 days before you place them back.
The water change will help clean out the meds and it will not be as much of a shock to the fish going from medicated water to nice clean non medicated water. This in itself CAN bring on ich.
YEA ! stress,drop in temp,introduction by fish or plants,
overcrowding and a few more ressons can cause or contribute to ick.
So I would try and take EXTRA percaution just to assure it's safe.
Now, also something to remember is, a fish could infect another fish or tank even if he / she DO NOT show signs of ich. the could be infected but not on a severe stage and infect others to the max. Here I speak from FIRST hand experience.
Normally I will treat the whole tank even if only 1 fish looks sick.
Most my tanks are loaded and it is a nightmare to try and catch a fish. Anyways, Once I cought the sick fish and treated them. 5 days treated, water change and left them for a few days. They were fine or at least I thought. Yeap ! once they returned home within a week the whole tank was infected.
That was the first and last time I removed a fish to treat for ick. Best is to treat the WHOLE tank. This assures that there is no ich on fish nor in the latent stages of developement. the downfall here is it takes alot more meds than it would treating a small tank.
at 1 drop per gallon it takes forever to do a 125. Even a 55 for that matter. So now i get the big big bottles. Well they are 1 gal. jugs. If the wholesaler can not locate the 1g I get a few 16 oz bottles. Yes it's alot but best safe than sorry. it is very smart as a hobbiest to keep on hand the more common meds. An example is ich, very common and the worst is letting it go a day or two cause you don't have meds.
Most meds do have a shelf life but for the most part I have never had a problem with them going bad. Would be a wise choice to keep some on hand. Whats common ? ich, bloat, pop eye, droopsy, swim bladder disease, anchor worms ( goldfish mostly ) there are many many more common diseases that you can treat IF the meds are avail. Long stiry short, keep the ich med on hand.
Hope my ramble answered your question,
danny
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