Ich

[Mathew1991]

Hi yes I think when I upgrade to the new tank I will keep that one and set it back up

Just waiting for @Colin_T to have a look at the video and confirm that is what it is

And if all the other fish are fine with raising the temperature

 

[Colin_T]

I take it all the other fish will be ok with the temp at 30?

Yes, the other fishes will be fine at 30C for a couple of weeks as long as you increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise the oxygen in the water.

Also will I still do a water change and gravel vac?

Yes, you should still do a 75-80% water change and gravel clean the substrate before raising the temperature. The big water change and gravel cleaning will dilute any parasites in the water and help remove some of the ones in the substrate so there are fewer to infect the fish.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

You should clean the filter too if it's more than 6 weeks old and hasn't been cleaned in the last week. Wash the filter media/ materials in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water outside on the lawn or garden.

And how long will I raise the temp for?

You keep the water at 30C (86F) for 2 weeks, or at least 1 week after all the white spots have gone. When you measure the water temperature, use a thermometer that is in the water so you get an accurate reading.

If the spots are haven't changed after a week at 30C, post more pictures and video.

When you film fish with a mobile phone, hold the phone horizontally (landscape mode) so the footage fills the entire screen and doesn't put black bars on each side. It makes it easier to view the fish.

 

[AlexT]

Hi yes I think when I upgrade to the new tank I will keep that one and set it back up

Just waiting for @Colin_T to have a look at the video and confirm that is what it is

And if all the other fish are fine with raising the temperature

They should all be fine at the higher temp for a while. Just make sure to keep the water surface well agitated at all times, because the warmer the water temp, the less available oxygen there is for the fish, but if the water is well agitated at surface, fish will have no oxygen problems at the higher temp.

Edit Colin has covered about the oxygen in the water

 

[Mathew1991]

That’s great thanks for the help

The filter is only about a month old I transferred over the media from my old one into the new one should I still give it a clean

Also would people say the water testing all looks good

 

[Colin_T]

If you only transferred the filter across a month ago, do not clean it for 2 more weeks.

The water tests are fine. You have no ammonia, nitrite or nitrate and the pH is slightly alkaline but only a bit above 7.0 so it's fine.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Here is a pretty good article on Ich. It is an easy read and pretty much on the mark.
https://www.tfhmagazine.com/articles/freshwater/preventing-ich-full-article

Usually heat alone is not enough to deal with ich. Salt is one effective "med" which is used in conjunction with elevated temps. In recent years a strain (or more than one) was discovered whuch can withstand temperatures of 90F (32.2C). But this is a less commonly seen strain so likely not an issue here.

Every fish keeper deals with Ich in the way they feel is best for both infected and non-infected fish in a tank. I am one who prefers to use meds and, living in the states, I can still find them all available. I have also been extremely lucky in terms of Ich. I have only seen it twice in all my tanks in 23+ years. But these two experiences mean that I can tell you that it can be deadly.

One interesting fact about ich, whch is mentioned in the linked article above, is that fish which have had ich and survived it, develop an immunity to it. Apparently this immunity is not life long but does persisit for some time. This is why when we have an inch outbreak in a tank it may not effect some of the fish. This fact has also led to work on developing vaccines against Ich which appear to be promising.

 

[Mathew1991]

@Colin_T

Hi Colin I have done 75 percent water change
Gravel vac
Raised the temp up to 30
Increased aeration with sponge filter and air stone

Is that all I need to do and do I still do frequent water changes wile set at 30

 

[Colin_T]

That is all you need to do now. The white dots should fall off the fish in a few days and the parasites should die when they become free swimming a few days later. If everything goes as planned, there should be no more white dots appearing on the fish.

You don't have to do water changes for a week or two unless the water quality deteriorates (you get an ammonia, nitrite or high nitrate reading). Then you do a big water change using water that is the same temperature as the tank.

 

[Mathew1991]

Got home tonight and there is one bleeding heart dead with no tail left

There is also another blessing heart that has lost its tail and has a lump at the back

 

[AlexT]

And if I recall, almost all of the spots were on the tails of the bleeding hearts as well @Colin_T

 

[Mathew1991]

Yer was the bleeding tetras with the spots

 

[Mathew1991]

One of the mollies has just died aswell

Tested water and is all fine

 

[Mathew1991]

Another 2 orange mollies have just died

 

[Colin_T]

What is the temperature of the water?
Did you increase aeration to maximise the oxygen level in the water?

What fish are in the tank besides the bleeding heart tetras?

 

[Mathew1991]

30 degrees
Yer I’ve got fluval 307 running with a sponge filter and air stone there is lots of movement on the top

There is mollies bn pleco cardinal tetras corys 2 adf

The other mollies are now in the bottom and don’t look well

It’s like something is just wiping everything out today