I want to set up a shrimp breeding tank with an old 10 gallon tank

[Grant_F]

Hello everyone!

I have a barely used 10 gallon tank lying around and I want to turn it into a shrimp breeding tank. I have done a fair amount of research into the idea, so I have a good theoretical grasp of the idea. I wanted to come on here to get a practical idea of what to expect. I would make it a planted, species only tank I think. The tank has all the basic equipment already (not good equipment at all though). Ideally I would like to sell the shrimp, so that it can slowly but surely fund my hobby. I just want to hear about everyone's experience with something similar and get some tips about what you guys found worked best. What kind of filter did you find worked best? Water parameters that are different than usual? Plants that worked best for you? Things like that. I've done a lot of the research, so I know most of the things that are "googleable". Please only respond with things you learned that maybe go against the norm, or would be difficult to find out without real experience breeding shrimp. Thank you guys in advance for any help/insight!

 

[Colin_T]

Have sand or gravel on the bottom.
Use an air operated sponge filter so the baby shrimp don't get sucked up.
Have lots of aquatic plants in the tank. Ambulia, Hygrophila polysperma, narrow Vallis, Water Sprite are all good plants.
Do regular water changes and gravel cleaning.
Feed them well and they will breed.

 

[Lajos_Detari]

Firstly, as Colin mentioned, sponge filter is good as the shrimplets won't get sucked into the filter.
The shrimps also like to graze on the sponge as they are scavenger and will eat any food that is sucked to the sponge.

For plants, Java Moss or plants with fine leaves like Hornworts and Anacharis Elodea are good for the shrimplets to hide.

At initial start up, you can let the algae grow by turning on the light for 10-12 hours.
I used a high power light which allow thick algae to grow on the wall.
I am keeping Sulawesi shrimps which feed mainly on algae. So I need to have thick algae for them to eat.
You can also put some driftwoods or rocks in a transparent container filled with water under the sun to let the algae grow first before bringing them into you tank.

You can have some driftwoods for them to hide.
Becareful if you keep rocks as you may accidentally kill them during tank maintenance. I removed all rocks as it was difficult to do tank maintenance.

Make sure that you don't use any chemical especially copper and most medication as they are sensitive to them and will die.

Make sure that you use water conditioner for your tap water.
It's best to have a big bucket to keep your tap water (mixed with water conditioner) overnight before using the water for water change.
Make sure that your bucket doesnt have any detergent in it.
I prefer to use a new bucket that has never been soaked with detergent.

Whenever you buy new shrimps, observe them carefully for any disease.
Parasites infection can be hard to get rid of when they get into your tank as shrimps are sensitive to most medications except probably for Praziquantel.

 

[Grant_F]

Firstly, as Colin mentioned, sponge filter is good as the shrimplets won't get sucked into the filter.
The shrimps also like to graze on the sponge as they are scavenger and will eat any food that is sucked to the sponge.

For plants, Java Moss or plants with fine leaves like Hornworts and Anacharis Elodea are good for the shrimplets to hide.

At initial start up, you can let the algae grow by turning on the light for 10-12 hours.
I used a high power light which allow thick algae to grow on the wall.
I am keeping Sulawesi shrimps which feed mainly on algae. So I need to have thick algae for them to eat.
You can also put some driftwoods or rocks in a transparent container filled with water under the sun to let the algae grow first before bringing them into you tank.

You can have some driftwoods for them to hide.
Becareful if you keep rocks as you may accidentally kill them during tank maintenance. I removed all rocks as it was difficult to do tank maintenance.

Make sure that you don't use any chemical especially copper and most medication as they are sensitive to them and will die.

Make sure that you use water conditioner for your tap water.
It's best to have a big bucket to keep your tap water (mixed with water conditioner) overnight before using the water for water change.
Make sure that your bucket doesnt have any detergent in it.
I prefer to use a new bucket that has never been soaked with detergent.

Whenever you buy new shrimps, observe them carefully for any disease.
Parasites infection can be hard to get rid of when they get into your tank as shrimps are sensitive to most medications except probably for Praziquantel.

I like the suggestion about letting the tank and decor grow some algae, so I will definitely do that. Since this is going to be a new tank that I need to cycle how much should I cycle it for? Shrimp have basically no bioload I imagine, so should I still cycle the tank at the typical 3 ppm? Or can I do a lower number to make the process go faster?

 

[Lajos_Detari]

I like the suggestion about letting the tank and decor grow some algae, so I will definitely do that. Since this is going to be a new tank that I need to cycle how much should I cycle it for? Shrimp have basically no bioload I imagine, so should I still cycle the tank at the typical 3 ppm? Or can I do a lower number to make the process go faster?

Shrimps are sensitive to ammonia.
They have low bioload but sometimes over feeding or dying plants may create ammonia spike.
It's best to cycle the tank first.
You can probably use 1-2 ppm will be enough.
Usually I like to use live bacteria to speed up the cycle.
You can try Seachem Stability or Tetra Safe Start.

Seachem - Stability

www.seachem.com

Tetra SafeStart

Makes it possible to introduce fish immediately after setting up a new aquarium. The live bacteria contained within Tetra SafeStart instantly creates a biologically active habitat.

www.tetra.net

 

[Grant_F]

Shrimps are sensitive to ammonia.
They have low bioload but sometimes over feeding or dying plants may create ammonia spike.
It's best to cycle the tank first.
You can probably use 1-2 ppm will be enough.
Usually I like to use live bacteria to speed up the cycle.
You can try Seachem Stability or Tetra Safe Start.

Seachem - Stability

www.seachem.com

Tetra SafeStart

Makes it possible to introduce fish immediately after setting up a new aquarium. The live bacteria contained within Tetra SafeStart instantly creates a biologically active habitat.

www.tetra.net

I was thinking 3 ppm would be a bit overkill for the 10 or 15 shrimp I'm gonna start with haha. You have any suggestions on substrate? I don't want an active substrate, I know that for sure. Another problem I have is that my GH of my tap water is 0 and my KH is 25-30. I've been talking about this in my other thread about my other tank, but I was curious about anyone's suggestions here. I think the best plan is to use Seachem Equilibrium and just treat the new water during a water change with enough to raise it to 7 GH and then add it to the tank.

 

[Lajos_Detari]

I was thinking 3 ppm would be a bit overkill for the 10 or 15 shrimp I'm gonna start with haha. You have any suggestions on substrate? I don't want an active substrate, I know that for sure. Another problem I have is that my GH of my tap water is 0 and my KH is 25-30. I've been talking about this in my other thread about my other tank, but I was curious about anyone's suggestions here. I think the best plan is to use Seachem Equilibrium and just treat the new water during a water change with enough to raise it to 7 GH and then add it to the tank.

Will you be keeping Neocaridina or Caridina shrimps?
For Neocaridina shrimps, it's best to use neutral sand.
Neocaridina shrimps like Cherry, Fire Red, Blue and Yellow shrimps are easier to keep than Caridina shrimps.

Your water is very soft.
You can try the GH salt/mineral specially made for shrimps.

Shrimp King Shrimp Salt GH+/KH+ | Dennerle

dennerle.com

Salty Shrimp Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+

Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+ re-mineralizes e.g. RO water, rainwater, fully desalinated water etc., raising total hardness (°dGH) and carbonate hardness (KH) at a ratio of °dGH/KH: 1.0/0.5.

www.theshrimptank.com

Some info for you:

All you need to know about Neocaridina

Have you heard that Neocaridina Davidi is the easiest shrimp to keep? But yet, you either have no success in breeding them or even have a hard time keeping them alive? Let us share with you today, all you need to know about Neocaridina. For those who have success in these shrimps, some...

madshrimp.com

Frequently asked questions on Neocaridina shrimps

Freshwater shrimps have never been more popular. Ade Dunn explains how to keep and breed those of the Neocaridina genus.

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

All you need to know about Neocaridina

Have you heard that Neocaridina Davidi is the easiest shrimp to keep? But yet, you either have no success in breeding them or even have a hard time keeping them alive? Let us share with you today, all you need to know about Neocaridina. For those who have success in these shrimps, some...

madshrimp.com

Setting Up a Caridina Shrimp Tank

Here you will find the easiest way to properly set up a healthy Caridina Shrimp tank, how to cycle your caridina shrimp tank, how to care for your caridina shrimp, what products to use, what foods that will help your shrimp colony grow, decorations and plants to help your Caridina Shrimp colony...

luckyaquatics.com