I Need Some Advice Please

Pearsondesign

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hi all,

ok.
i have just got myself some new tanks.
1 36inch by 15 by 15 tank divided in half
1 36inch by 15 by 12 divided into 3.
1 30 by 30 by 28 tank. its big!

im going to be using the 30by30by28 tank for a nice ref display tank, using reef rock cut in half and siliconed to the walls to build enclosed tank and then live rock and corals on shelves and ledges etc.

what i need help with it the split tanks.
im hoping to breed (or try) some marine fish. looking at cardinals and clowns but need some more advice on how to set these tanks up. a sump is available for use but i am a newbie when it comes to sumps etc.

can someone like seffie maybe reply with what the best way of setting up these tanks is?
they are each drilled at top back for in and out tubes/pipes etc. so each tank has its own in and out holes.

sorry for the long post and questions but i wanna do this right from the start

thanks in advance

Edd
 
What are you using these for?
The broodstock or the offspring?

Regardless of what you plan on breeding, any larval tanks need to be separate from any system and separate from each other.

If you are just starting small, I would use the 35x15x15 for broodstock and the one split into three for a grow out tank. The growout tanks and broodstock tanks can be plumbed together. I would plumb the the two tanks to each other and then connect them to a large sump (the sump doesn't have to be fancy, my friend uses a large black plastic bin). You will need all the extra water volume you can get as you will be putting in a decent amount of foods.

I am involved in several breeding projects including clowns and bangaii cardinals, along with another group of people. If you have any questions or need info, feel free to ask. I'll try to point in the right direction.
 
What are you using these for?
The broodstock or the offspring?

Regardless of what you plan on breeding, any larval tanks need to be separate from any system and separate from each other.

If you are just starting small, I would use the 35x15x15 for broodstock and the one split into three for a grow out tank. The growout tanks and broodstock tanks can be plumbed together. I would plumb the the two tanks to each other and then connect them to a large sump (the sump doesn't have to be fancy, my friend uses a large black plastic bin). You will need all the extra water volume you can get as you will be putting in a decent amount of foods.

I am involved in several breeding projects including clowns and bangaii cardinals, along with another group of people. If you have any questions or need info, feel free to ask. I'll try to point in the right direction.


thankyou :)

im looking at trying cardinals out first, then maybe some clowns.

is it easier to buy ''breeding pairs'' rather than hoping they pair off?
can you help me get breeding pairs?
 
What are you using these for?
The broodstock or the offspring?

Regardless of what you plan on breeding, any larval tanks need to be separate from any system and separate from each other.

If you are just starting small, I would use the 35x15x15 for broodstock and the one split into three for a grow out tank. The growout tanks and broodstock tanks can be plumbed together. I would plumb the the two tanks to each other and then connect them to a large sump (the sump doesn't have to be fancy, my friend uses a large black plastic bin). You will need all the extra water volume you can get as you will be putting in a decent amount of foods.

I am involved in several breeding projects including clowns and bangaii cardinals, along with another group of people. If you have any questions or need info, feel free to ask. I'll try to point in the right direction.


thankyou :)

im looking at trying cardinals out first, then maybe some clowns.

is it easier to buy ''breeding pairs'' rather than hoping they pair off?
can you help me get breeding pairs?


For clowns, it's not necessarily easier, but if you get ones that are not paired up or mature yet, you need to wait until that happens. If you get juveniles it may take a year or more for that to happen. If you get a known female and pair her with a older juvenile, it may not take as long. Mated pairs will be much more expensive, however.

As for the bangaiis, they're a whole different deal. They cannot change sex and so you need to find a male and female. They are extremely difficult to sex, but through a method I received, it seems to be working 100% of the time thus far. I can get you some pictures of that (which reminds me I owe pictures to someone else... was it mojo??). If you get a pair of juveniles, same thing, you have to wait until they are mature which may also take about a year. Juveniles are also harder to sex. I have on occasion found older captive bred bangaiis, the female I bought was already producing eggs. Again, mated pairs will be expensive.

Another method to sex them is to just buy a group and put them together. Couples will pair off and swim alone together and potentially show aggression to the others.
I should note that mature same sex individuals WILL fight. Males in particular are horrific with each other. Females do not always fight with another, my female will not stand another female being the same tank with her.
Juveniles will hang out with each other regardless of their sexes, which is also what makes it difficult to sex them.

All-in-all, it's your choice. You can either buy pairs and pay the money; buy unknown pairs and wait.
 
Thanks for the vote of confidence but I'm afraid I have no experience of breeding marine fish - Nemo is your girl and she has already answered :good:

Seffie x
 
excellent info cheers :)

ok, so im best to buy a handful of bangaiis and then watch them for changes, then seperate when 'paired'

does anyone know any places that sell breeding pairs or trios?

also, what other fish are best to start off with?
filtration and water circ wont be a problem as i have plenty of powerheads, coralias and external filters plus a sump to put in.
im gonna overdo the filtration just to be safe
got a nice large skimmer for sump too

sorry if im sounding a bit dumb with all this, ive kept marines for years before, but this is my first step into breeding
 
found this on marinebreeder.org

would you say its an accurate site?

NOT WRITTEN BY ME! CREDIT IS AT END

1 - Species covered in this forum:

The Family Apogonidae - Genus Pterapogon - This genus includes 2 species:
Pterapogon kauderni - the "Banggai Cardinalfish" or "Borneo Cardinalfish", "Kauderni" or "Kaudern's Cardinalfish", also often referred to in slang as "Bangaii(s)s" or "Banger(s)s".
Pterapogon mirifica - no common name

For an overview of the Apogonidae, see http://www.fishbase.org/identification/ ... &areacode=

2 – Common characteristics:
Bangaii Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) are unique in the cardinalfish family, being one of only a handful of species which features direct development of their offspring. The other species in this genus, Pterapogon mirifica, also features direct development. Due to the relative easy of larval culture, Bangaii Cardinalfish have been dubbed by some as the "Guppy" of the Saltwater Aquarium.

Bangaii Cardinalfish, in the home aquarium, are best kept as pairs. Unlike the majority of Cardinalfish species, Bangaiis are not well suited to being kept in schools, especially in smaller aquariums. While juveniles will school, once they start to mature sexually, individuals will become aggressive to the point of murdering conspecifs.

It is of special note that in 2007, the Bangaii Cardinalfish was listed on the IUCN Red List as an endangered species. In this particular instance, this is the direct result of collecting for the aquarium hobby. Due to this situation, it is strongly recommended that for any hobbyist purchasing Bangaii Cardinalfish NOT destined for breeding, Captive Bred Bangaiis are the only responsible choice to make. Wild Caught Bangaiis are better reserved for the appropriate use as foundation broodstock for breeding efforts.

The rarely seen Pterapogon mirifica is relatively unknown, limited work has been done by Alex Vagelli who has described this fish as extremely MEAN!!! Dr. Vagelli was successful in captively breeding and rearing this species. All reproduction notes below refer to experiences with Pterapogon kauderni unless otherwise noted.

For more basic information, visit - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cardinal.htm

3 – Reproduction:

3.1 – Sex determination:
Separate sexes

3.2 – Sexual organization:
Non-monogamous Pairs - females are promiscuous, willing to mate with multiple males. During and following spawning, the female will often defend the male.

3.3 – Sexing:
There is no proven sexual dimorphism or dichromatism and sexes are usually told apart by behaviour in a group. The most effective manner to sex Bangaii Cardinalfish is to "test" them against known fish. By placing unknown fish with a known male or female, there is typically a relatively quick reaction (i.e. if fighting breaks out, it's highly likely the fish are the same sex).

With experience, you may be able to make an educated guess as to the sex of fish. These subtle differences aren't noticeable in juvenile fish, and only become pronounced when the fish are mature. Basically, the male's head and buccal cavity will be larger in proportion to his body. The jawline will be more "Flat" or "Squared off" in Females, whereas the male's "throat" or "chin" will have a convex, curved profile - this due again to the fact that it is the male who fills his mouth with eggs for 3 weeks at a time!

Finnage so far has proven very unreliable. Do not assume that a longer dorsal fin is indicitive of a male.

There has been some success in determing the sex of Banggai Cardinalfish by the 'venting' method as outlined by Steve Kennedy in the following post http://www.marinebreeder.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=166&t=2064&start=0

3.4 - Pairing / Setting Up Broodstock:

Banggai Cardinalfish may be reproductively viable as early as 4 months of age for males, with most becoming mature somewhere between 6 months to 1 year or longer (if in the precense of mature specimens). Banggai Cardinalfish will generally coexist as juveniles, becoming aggressive towards conspecifs once sexual maturity is reached.

Many people will make the mistake of purchasing several adult Bangaii Cardinalfish and throwing them into a single tank all together. This is typically a recipe for disaster, as a pair forms and in short order eliminates all the others! Only in extremely large aquariums (i.e. 100 gallons or more) may the keeping of multiple pairs be possible. To maximize reproductive activity, pairs should be kept in isolated quarters.

For people with limited space, the ideal method for obtaining a pair is to simply purchase a pair from a reputable source. They ARE available if you know where to look.

The typical situation that may help - in many larger aquarium stores Bangaii Cardinalfish will be available in groups. If the fish are mature and healthy, it is possible to observe the group. The "ringleader" of the group is your female. Watch which fish the ringleader chases, and pay special attention to those that she doesn't chase. There is a good chance that any fish being allowed to routinely remain in the aggressor's (female's) vicinity is likely a male.

Of course, as mentioned above in "sexing", the best way to obtain a pair is to determine what sex each fish is. Bangaiis do not appear to be "picky" with their mates, the female will likely accept any given male.

3.5 – Courtship:
Courtship is rather obvious. For those who can watch a Youtube Video, this is probably all you'll need (the larger fish with the bigger head is the male)



For the rest of you - courtship starts in the afternoon and is initiated by the female. She swims up along side the male, parallel, and begins to quiver rapidly. She will then drop behind and do the same along the other side of the male. This back and forth vibrating dance may occur on the day of, or the days proceding spawning - seeing the courtship dance does not mean the fish will mate on that day, only that the fish are getting ready. You will also see the female continue to stimulate the male through this courtship dance in the hours immediately after spawning.

3.6 – Spawning:
Like the other cardinalfishes, Pterapogon are paternal mouthbrooders (the male keep the eggs). The actual spawning occurs typically in mid-afternoon - the transfer of eggs takes only seconds. Noticing a spawn is beyond obvious, all you have to do is look. The male will be refusing food and will have a very distended buccal cavitiy. The female will "guard" the male following spawning, typically for at least a few days. Make sure to note the date of the spawn.

Pairs will spawn as frequently as every 30 days if given the opportunity to, although there is evidence that females are capable of producing eggs as frequently as every 2 weeks.

4 – Eggs:

4.1 – Size:
2.5-3 mm

4.2 – Quantity:
Hatch sizes average around 20, but clutches as large as 45 or more have been reported.

4.3 – Characteristics
There is no oil globule present.

4.4 – Incubation period/Hatching temp:
Typically 21 days from spawning to release, but can range from 18 to 26.

5 – Larvae:

5.1 – Size at hatching: approximately 5-6 mm (1/4")
5.2 – Yolk sac present at hatch: Typically no, unless premature hatching.
5.3 – Mouth present at hatch: Yes
5.4 – Eyes developed at hatch: Yes

6 - Rearing:

6.1 - Breeding & Rearing Techniques
Bangaiis, once established as a pair, prove to be willing and reliable spawners during their first year or two. Pairs reproductive behavior can slow after this time period.

The rearing of Bangaii Cardinalfish is arguably easy. Most pitfalls in the breeding process have to do with males refusing to hold eggs through to term. Stripping of the clutch, followed by artificial incubation, may be necessary for poor fathers.

There is a lot of speculation around WHY males will consume or spit their clutches prematurely. Commonly suggested causes include excess stimulus (in the form of a crowded or small tank, or external movement by the breeder), or insufficient nutrition / nourishment, especially in pairs that spawn repeatedly (remedied by provided the male some rest and relaxation following the breeding cycle before reintroducing him to the female).

6.2 – Day at first feeding:
Newly Hatched Bangaii Cardinalfish are immediately ready to eat.

6.3 - Starvation Time:
If known, include the time post-hatch that larval will live without feeding. This can often be found in larval studies where scientists do not feed the larvae, as well a accounts of failed larval rearing attempts.

6.4 – Feeding scheme:
Baby Brine Shrimp (Artemnia nauplii) are the standard first food for newly hatched Bangaii Cardinalfish. Offspring fed solely newly hatched brine shrimp are prone to Sudden Fright Syndrome, so enriching HUFAs is key in the rearing process. Vitamin Enrichment is also beneficial. Newly released juveniles should be fed a minimum of 3 times daily, with 5 feeding per day being suggested by Dr. Marini. Copepods certainly wouldn't hurt as an alternate or supplement, but they are entirely unnecessary. Branching out to additional prepared / frozen foods early on will again increase success and decrease losses to SFS.

Dr. Frank Marini suggests that fry can be weaned onto other frozen foods of the appropriate size within 30 days, at which point growth rates will increase dramatically. 2nd foods include Cyclopeeze, Cyclops, Frozen Brine Shrimp and Mysis Shrimp, as well as other potential offerings.

6.5 – Age at meta:
0. There is no meta in this species- one of the great features of direct development!

7 – Species been reared successfully
Pterapogon kaudernii - currently routinely raised by countless individuals.
Pterapogon mirifica - (first?) successful rearing by Dr. Alex Vagelli

8 – References

8.1 - Articles

"The Banggai Cardinalfish: A 10 Year Update" by Dr. Frank Marini and Dr. Alejandro Vagelli, C The Journal, Volume 2, Issue 1, pages 41 to 54 - (editorial note - this is a must have current article for the Bangaii Breeder)

"The Complete Illustrated Breeder's Guide to Marine Aquarium Fishes", Matthew L. Wittenrich, pages 221-223.

"Significant increase in survival of captive-bred juvenile Banggai cardinalfish Pterapogon kauderni with an essential fatty acid-enriched diet." - Vagelli, A. A. - http://www.cababstractsplus.org/google/ ... 0043093352

"Breeding the Banggai Cardinalfish" by Ross, Richard & Pedersen, Matt - Reef Hobbyist Magazine, 4th Quarter, 2008.
http://www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com/arc ... ue_8-6.htm

8.2 - Web Content

2007 IUCN Redlist - http://www.iucnredlist.org/search/details.php/63572/ref

My notes and observations on Raising and Breeding the Banggai Cardinalfish, by Frank Marini - http://www.breedersregistry.org/Article ... marini.htm

"Manual for the Production of the Banggai Cardinalfish, Pterapogon kauderni, in Hawai‘i" - Steve Hopkins, Harry Ako and Clyde S. Tamaru @ Rain Garden Ornamentals - http://www.soest.hawaii.edu/seagrant/co ... -Final.pdf

Captive care and Breeding of the Banggai cardinal fish Pteragon kauderni - Reefs.org Talk Log with Frank Marini - http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/f_ ... 20799.html

Breeding Pterapogon mirifica on Reef Central by Alex Vagelli - http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthrea ... t=mirifica

Bangaii Cardinals by Andrea Bishop - http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/ ... dinal.html

Reefers Realm Bangaii Breeding Pictures - http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Gard ... hotos.html

Breeding Banggai Cardinals (Pterapogon kauderrni)
by Rennie Bowe - http://www.aquafind.com/articles/Breedi ... dinals.php

The Joys of Tank Raised Banggai Cardinalfish by Keith Clark - http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/k_ ... 02499.html

Bangaii Cardinalfish Breeding by Nagel - http://www.appalachianreef.com/index.ph ... &Itemid=41

Bangaii FAQs on WetWebMedia - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/banggaifaqs.htm

Bangaii Reproduction FAQs on WetWebMedia - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/banggairepro.htm

Sexing Bangaii with the venting method - viewtopic.php?f=166&t=2064&start=0

Video:

Bangaii Courtship - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxRoR6nY1AE

Bangaii Eggs Hatching - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7euDk-Qqzg

In addition to the above links, there are probably countless forum posts around the internet on people's experiences, often unplanned for, with Bangaii Cardinals breeding.

8.3 - Books
List any books that contain "Breeding-Relevant" information to this group.

9 - Compiled By
Matt Pedersen - mpedersen - matt (at) cichlidrecipe.com
Last Update: 10/10/2008
 
MarineBreeder (or MOFIB) is a great place. Many experienced people, I am on the breeder's challenge committee there though unfortunately, not nearly as active as I used to be. All of that information is correct, it mentions "venting" which is the method of sexing I would recommend. Matt Pedersen (who compiled) is a darling. Bangaiis are actually one of our challenges this year so there are plenty of people attempting to breed them at the moment.

Cleaner gobies (Elacatinus) are suppose to be fairly easy to get spawning and raising, although I have no personal experience with this. Various types of dottybacks are suppose to be on the easier side as well (again, no personal experience with them).

Where are you located?
 
im in bishops stortford, near stansted airport
cm23 postcode

im basically wanting to make some money in the long term, but wanna get started on easy stuff just so i can get things going.
ive bred all sorts of freshwater fish from the obligatory guppy to blue acaras and discus.

now i feel im ready for the salty breeding side :)

ive been very tempted by seahorses as i hear they are very easy to breed, is this true?
potbellied are the ones ive been looking at recently.

any help you can offer, or any places you know of to buy breeding pairs is greatly appreciated :)

Edd

ps here is a pic of the 30x30x28 tank :)
13463_10150223932770265_759975264_12829255_7843130_n.jpg


and heres one of the sump/weir tank for caulerpa bed
13463_10150223933480265_759975264_12829277_261738_n.jpg
 
I'm in the US, so unfortunately I don't know of any good sources for buying pairs overseas...

As for seahorses, yes certain species of them are as well, I thought of them before but did not mention just because they have special requirements than other fish. I'm not sure how you could incorporate them into a general broodstock system with other fish.
 
my basic aim is to use on of the 3ft tanks thats divided into 3 for raising fry, then using the other 3ft thats split in two for breeding the fish. im not sure they will be big enough though, what do you think?

the cube-ish tank is going to be for my new reef setup with siliconed on back rock walls and overhangs etc. its my project for the summer and im very excited about it :)

i get the 2 3ft tanks tomorrow afternoon, but as of yet have no stands for them :(
i have another 5ft tank on a stand along with another 35l arcadia arc tank, and a 24x15x15 at my disposal.
also, got another 4ft tank in custom cabinet arriving next wek, im gonna be out of room!!
dreading my electric bill!

this is the reason i want to figure out a way of using 1 or 2 filters to run all tanks in the divided 3ft ones.
i want to use minimal plugs and still be able to care for them properly
 
Unfortunately I'm not aware of any way to connect larval tanks together, I know people who have tried and it has not worked well... Between water quality problems, food density and water flow; it's tough to do. I'm not sure if each larval tank could be connected to each other, i've always read/seen people having each larval tank separate from one another and everything else.

I would have all broodstock and grow out tanks connected to one another (plumbing-wise) with a large sump and a good skimmer. A friend of mine uses an algae scrubber in his set-up, it works well for him; perhaps look at them?


I'm not sure if I may be confusing you more.
Basically, this is how I've seen many set-ups.
Larval tanks are obviously for larva. Most marine fish have a pelagic larval stage and the larval tanks would be used for this stage. They then undergo metamorphosis (time varies by species, for percula clowns it's around 1-2 weeks). Once they have undergone metamorphosis they are generally considered "safe" to move around. Some people move them, other don't until later. At some point they are generally moved to a juvenile or "Grow-out" tank. Some set-ups contain many grow-out tanks and fish are placed and moved depending on size. You can safely put clownfish of the same species but different clutches together.
 
ah i see, ok, thankyou :) that actually made perfect sense to me :)
ok, so im gonna need to find a way of having each tank filtered seperately.
ive got enough external canistors here for it, but its the electricity lol.
hmmm, ill have to think about it more when i have the tanks here.

thanks for you help :) when i get the tanks ill put some pics up so it shows what i mean easier.
im off to bed cos my child will be waking me at stupid am tomorrow as usual lol
thanks again
 
Oh I forgot to mention. Larval tanks will not need filtration. Not that they won't need it, rather they can't have it, even sponge filters are a no-no at the start. They either a) suck up the larva, or b) suck up the larva's food. Sponge filters can usually be added when they move onto bigger foods, but personally, I don't use any kind of filtration until the grow-out tanks. Water changes, water changes :)
 
What are you using these for?
The broodstock or the offspring?

Regardless of what you plan on breeding, any larval tanks need to be separate from any system and separate from each other.

If you are just starting small, I would use the 35x15x15 for broodstock and the one split into three for a grow out tank. The growout tanks and broodstock tanks can be plumbed together. I would plumb the the two tanks to each other and then connect them to a large sump (the sump doesn't have to be fancy, my friend uses a large black plastic bin). You will need all the extra water volume you can get as you will be putting in a decent amount of foods.

I am involved in several breeding projects including clowns and bangaii cardinals, along with another group of people. If you have any questions or need info, feel free to ask. I'll try to point in the right direction.


thankyou :)

im looking at trying cardinals out first, then maybe some clowns.

is it easier to buy ''breeding pairs'' rather than hoping they pair off?
can you help me get breeding pairs?


For clowns, it's not necessarily easier, but if you get ones that are not paired up or mature yet, you need to wait until that happens. If you get juveniles it may take a year or more for that to happen. If you get a known female and pair her with a older juvenile, it may not take as long. Mated pairs will be much more expensive, however.

As for the bangaiis, they're a whole different deal. They cannot change sex and so you need to find a male and female. They are extremely difficult to sex, but through a method I received, it seems to be working 100% of the time thus far. I can get you some pictures of that (which reminds me I owe pictures to someone else... was it mojo??). If you get a pair of juveniles, same thing, you have to wait until they are mature which may also take about a year. Juveniles are also harder to sex. I have on occasion found older captive bred bangaiis, the female I bought was already producing eggs. Again, mated pairs will be expensive.

Another method to sex them is to just buy a group and put them together. Couples will pair off and swim alone together and potentially show aggression to the others.
I should note that mature same sex individuals WILL fight. Males in particular are horrific with each other. Females do not always fight with another, my female will not stand another female being the same tank with her.
Juveniles will hang out with each other regardless of their sexes, which is also what makes it difficult to sex them.

All-in-all, it's your choice. You can either buy pairs and pay the money; buy unknown pairs and wait.

*cough* heyy you remember! lol i was starting to think id have to buy a definate pair lol

ill be following this fo sho
 

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