I am so confused.

[Ash Paws]

So I have 5 neon tetras and a betta in the same tank, but I am probably going to move the tetras to a bigger tank. I have noticed my mistake of keeping too many fish in a small tank by algae. It is literally everywhere. I try to scrape it off but it gets really hard and it always comes back. I got a snail just for a temporary fix but that did not work either.
I learned that the nitrates are getting unbalanced and this is causing all the algae.
Yes, I am going to correct my mistakes. Sorry I keep coming to you guys with all these problems, not a very good fish owner over here.
So I am moving the tetras to a bigger tank, maybe with a different kind of fish, but how do I clean out the algae in my betta's tank in the meantime? I don't want to take the fish out and scrub the whole tank down, that sounds like it would be really stressful.
Just looking for some advice.

 

[David1978]

Here's a good article

https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki/algae/hydrogen-peroxide-treatment

 

[Byron]

First, recognize that algae is normal in an aquarium. It is using nutrients in the presence of light, same as higher plants. We can keep it in check however, especially if higher plants are present. And this involves the light and nutrient balance.

Never resort to chemical fixes, especially if fish are present. Finding the cause and resolving that is the only safe way to go. Every substance added to an aquarium gets inside the fish, and even if these do not kill the fish, they are still detrimental.

You mentioned nitrates...what is the nitrate level? More substantial or more frequent water changes may be needed, or reducing feeding, or reducing fish (as you mention). Do you have live plants? What type of algae? What about the light?

 

[Ash Paws]

I am going to buy a water test kit today or get it tested at the pet store so I will fill you in once i do.

I have an Amazon sword plant which is also getting covered in algae.

The light is a white LED, the tank is positioned a few feet away from a window but never in direct sunlight.

I think the type of algae is green algae. It is not the kind that is really fuzzy and sticks onto the gravel and stuff, its plastered flat to the glass and even the heater.

 

[Byron]

I am going to buy a water test kit today or get it tested at the pet store so I will fill you in once i do.

I have an Amazon sword plant which is also getting covered in algae.

The light is a white LED, the tank is positioned a few feet away from a window but never in direct sunlight.

I think the type of algae is green algae. It is not the kind that is really fuzzy and sticks onto the gravel and stuff, its plastered flat to the glass and even the heater.

If you buy a test kit, the API Master Combo liquid tests kit is a good value. It has ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. And liquid tests are more reliable than test strips. A good investment.

If you have the store do tests, always make sure they give you the number and write it down; "pH is fine" or similar means nothing to us, and it may be anything but good for the fish.

A photo might help ID the algae, there are many species. Light is always part of the balance though, and daylight from windows can tip the balance. Reducing the tank lighting time may help, but we need to know more data about all this. A photo will help a lot.

 

[Ash Paws]

Oh, I forgot to mention, I always turn their LED off at night.

Here is a picture:

It's really bad. I can't wait to fix it.

 

[Byron]

There is a lot involved in this issue, but it should be fixable. How long is the tank light on each day? Do you do regular water changes, meaning once a week, changing half the tank volume? Are you using any plant fertilizers?

 

[Ash Paws]

Tank light is on 12-14 hrs a day. That actually now sounds way too long to me.
I do water changes every week to every 2 weeks. I change 1/3 to 1/2 of the water, normally closer to 1/2.
No plant fertilizers.

 

[David1978]

Yea light is a big factor. Most people recommend 6-8 hours of light. I have mine on timers if not I tend to just let them on for 12-14 hours and things turn green .

 

[Byron]

Agree, as is "usually" the case, light is the primary factor.

First, get a simple lamp timer so the tank lighting is regular. This is better for fish and plants. You can have the lighting on during any continuous period, when you are normally home to enjoy the aquarium is usually best. Confine this photoperiod to fewer hours than presently, 6, 7 or 8 as mentioned should work.

Make sure there is not too much bright daylight hitting the tank. This can add sufficient light to throw the balance off again.

Increase your water changes to once every week, on the same day; find a time when you are normally home and can do this, and stick with it. I do mine on Sunday mornings. Change half the tank volume.

Substrate fertilizer for the sword would help. I use Seachem's Flourish Tabs. A package of ten will last you a few years, as you only need one tab every 3 months. But believe me, this makes a real difference with sword plants. And the tabs do not leech nutrients into the water column so algae is not encouraged.

Do a good clean of the tank walls to get rid of all this algae on the glass.

 

[Ash Paws]

Thank you so much

My plan is to get a ten gallon tank for the neon tetras and a water test kit. I'm going to test the water in the five gallon, I will probably do a water change and attempt to clean out all the algae.

I plan to start cycling the ten gallon with just with tetras (I have read up on cycling with fish and I will do more research.) Yes, cycling without fish would be better but I want to get the algae and nitrates and stuff under control, and my fish are probably stressed in this five gallon tank together.

I will consider getting some fertilizer for the plants. Thank you!

 

[seangee]

Thank you so much

My plan is to get a ten gallon tank for the neon tetras and a water test kit. I'm going to test the water in the five gallon, I will probably do a water change and attempt to clean out all the algae.

I plan to start cycling the ten gallon with just with tetras (I have read up on cycling with fish and I will do more research.) Yes, cycling without fish would be better but I want to get the algae and nitrates and stuff under control, and my fish are probably stressed in this five gallon tank together.

I will consider getting some fertilizer for the plants. Thank you!

That algae isn't actually terrible. If you reduce your light to say 6 hours and do weekly water changes it will be gone within weeks. Use a sponge (keep a separate one that has no embedded chemicals) and just wipe down the walls before every water change.

Based on the pic that light looks brighter than tetras like, if you add floating plants like amazon frogbit or water sprite it will reduce the light. Apart from benefitting the fish it will reduce the light available to the algae and starve the algae of nutrients.

 

[Byron]

Thank you so much

My plan is to get a ten gallon tank for the neon tetras and a water test kit. I'm going to test the water in the five gallon, I will probably do a water change and attempt to clean out all the algae.

I plan to start cycling the ten gallon with just with tetras (I have read up on cycling with fish and I will do more research.) Yes, cycling without fish would be better but I want to get the algae and nitrates and stuff under control, and my fish are probably stressed in this five gallon tank together.

I will consider getting some fertilizer for the plants. Thank you!

A couple of issues here to fix...

I agree to remove the neon tetras; they should not be housed with a male Betta in any event, that was only asking for trouble down the road. But as for a 10 gallon, this is not really sufficient for neon tetras though it can work. If you can manage a larger tank, say as 24-inch 15 gallon or 20 gallon, it will be much better moving ahead. Your options for fish to add will be increased, and the neons will be happier. The 15g and 20g high have the same footprint (24 by 12 inches) and obviously of the two the 20g will be better. But either would suffice for the tetras.

Never cycle with fish, it is cruel, and the effects of ammonia and nitrite poisoning are permanent. At best the fish will be weakened, and thus more susceptible to disease and other issues in the future, and they will not live a normal lifespan. There are ways to cycle. Having floating plants is one; if you have floating plants showing signs of growth in the new tank you could add the neons with no issues. There are also bacterial supplements that will help. Or seeding the bacteria by moving over the filter after it has been running in the existing tank.

Algae and nitrates are normal and can only be dealt with naturally. Any new tank is "unstable" even if cycled, until the biological system is established (this takes a few months). You avoid algae problems by dealing with the light and nutrient balance as I mentioned earlier in this thread. Live plants are a big factor in this, and even just some good floating plants will help. Nitrates should never be an issue unless you have nitrate in the source water (tap water) to begin with; test your source water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate when you have the test kit so you will know. Hopefully none will show up, but if one of these does, that is another issue to deal with.

 

[Ash Paws]

So earlier I tested the water in both tanks (the ten gallon one has no fish in it yet but it has the beneficial bacteria and water conditioner)

Five gallon:
Nitrate 20
Nitrite 0
pH 7.5
kH 80
gH 120
The chart that came with the test kit said they were all safe.

Ten gallon:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
pH 7
kH 80
gH 60

They are also all safe here but since there is no nitrates in the ten gallon does this mean there is a lot of ammonia? Unfortunately the kit I bought didn't come with an ammonia test.
How long is it supposed to take for the beneficial bacteria to complete its cycle into nitrates?

 

[Byron]

So earlier I tested the water in both tanks (the ten gallon one has no fish in it yet but it has the beneficial bacteria and water conditioner)

Five gallon:
Nitrate 20
Nitrite 0
pH 7.5
kH 80
gH 120
The chart that came with the test kit said they were all safe.

Ten gallon:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
pH 7
kH 80
gH 60

They are also all safe here but since there is no nitrates in the ten gallon does this mean there is a lot of ammonia? Unfortunately the kit I bought didn't come with an ammonia test.
How long is it supposed to take for the beneficial bacteria to complete its cycle into nitrates?

The cycling process only begins once there is some ammonia in the water. It can take anywhere from a few days ("seeding" and/or a good bacterial supplement speed things up) to several weeks.

"Safe" is a subjective term, and certainly cannot be applied to GH, KH or pH as these depend upon the intended fish.

I am confused by some of these numbers. Can you test your source water which I assume is tap water, on its own, for nitrate, nitrite, GH (these three especially)?