How To Safely Lower Ph In Tank

[TwoTankAmin]

From that link I posted for you-
 

 
Buffering capacity refers to water's ability to keep the pH stable as acids or bases are added. pH and buffering capacity are intertwined with one another; although one might think that adding equal volumes of an acid and neutral water would result in a pH halfway in between, this rarely happens in practice. If the water has sufficient buffering capacity, the buffering capacity can absorb and neutralize the added acid without significantly changing the pH. Conceptually, a buffer acts somewhat like a large sponge. As more acid is added, the ``sponge'' absorbs the acid without changing the pH much. The ``sponge's'' capacity is limited however; once the buffering capacity is used up, the pH changes more rapidly as acids are added.

 
So, I doubt that using a 50/50 mix of RO and Tap will help you much. However, from that same site-
 

 
One safe way to lower pH WITHOUT adjusting KH is to bubble CO2 (carbon dioxide) through the tank. The CO2 dissolves in water, and some of it forms carbonic acid. The formation of acid lowers the pH. Of course, in order for this approach to be practical, a steady source of CO2 bubbles (e.g. a CO2 tank) is needed to hold the pH in place. As soon as the CO2 is gone, the pH bounces back to its previous value. The high cost of a CO2 injection system precludes its use as a pH lowering technique in most aquariums (though see the PLANT FAQ for inexpensive do-it-yourself alternatives). CO2 injection systems are highly popular in heavily-planted tanks, because the additional CO2 stimulates plant growth.

 
The cost of a co2 system when compared with the cost and work to have an RO system is about equal. However, just lowering the pH this way will not lower the TDS. There is little point to doing this, imo.
 
For ro/di this is the system I have. It cost less when I got it a few years back. I can uses this unit as my water starts out much softer and lower pH than yours and I have little need for a sediment filter. You might want a 4-Stage system.
http/www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Reef-Aquarium-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-3-stage-water-filter-/270830509214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0ec19c9e

 

[watertown28]

From that link I posted for you-
 

 
Buffering capacity refers to water's ability to keep the pH stable as acids or bases are added. pH and buffering capacity are intertwined with one another; although one might think that adding equal volumes of an acid and neutral water would result in a pH halfway in between, this rarely happens in practice. If the water has sufficient buffering capacity, the buffering capacity can absorb and neutralize the added acid without significantly changing the pH. Conceptually, a buffer acts somewhat like a large sponge. As more acid is added, the ``sponge'' absorbs the acid without changing the pH much. The ``sponge's'' capacity is limited however; once the buffering capacity is used up, the pH changes more rapidly as acids are added.

 
So, I doubt that using a 50/50 mix of RO and Tap will help you much. However, from that same site-
 

 
One safe way to lower pH WITHOUT adjusting KH is to bubble CO2 (carbon dioxide) through the tank. The CO2 dissolves in water, and some of it forms carbonic acid. The formation of acid lowers the pH. Of course, in order for this approach to be practical, a steady source of CO2 bubbles (e.g. a CO2 tank) is needed to hold the pH in place. As soon as the CO2 is gone, the pH bounces back to its previous value. The high cost of a CO2 injection system precludes its use as a pH lowering technique in most aquariums (though see the PLANT FAQ for inexpensive do-it-yourself alternatives). CO2 injection systems are highly popular in heavily-planted tanks, because the additional CO2 stimulates plant growth.

 
The cost of a co2 system when compared with the cost and work to have an RO system is about equal. However, just lowering the pH this way will not lower the TDS. There is little point to doing this, imo.
 
For ro/di this is the system I have. It cost less when I got it a few years back. I can uses this unit as my water starts out much softer and lower pH than yours and I have little need for a sediment filter. You might want a 4-Stage system.
http/www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Reef-Aquarium-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-3-stage-water-filter-/270830509214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0ec19c9e


Yeah this looks like this might be the way I need to go... getting at least some kind of filter on the water supply.
 
Another thing I worry about too, with such a high buffer or pH, that if there is any kind of deviation like in ammonia or no2 that it could be harmful to my fish... am I reading that correct? A spike in one or the other at least from my understanding is worse under these conditions of higher pH.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Ammonia is more toxic the higher the pH and nitrite becomes more toxic as one moves seriously into the acid range. I do not believe higher pH makes nitrite less toxic however. What helps with that is chloride in the water.

 

[andyG44]

I think these RO systems, even the ones with electric pump, are too slow for anything other than domestic drinking purposes. Maybe an industrial capacity RO system would be better suited to provide the necessary RO water to fill large tanks.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

You can find ro and ro/di systems in any capacity you are willing to purchase. The more capacity the more they cost. The more stages and the type of stages will also determine the cost.

 

[watertown28]

I think these RO systems, even the ones with electric pump, are too slow for anything other than domestic drinking purposes. Maybe an industrial capacity RO system would be better suited to provide the necessary RO water to fill large tanks.

Yeah we are talking about:
2x 20 gallon
1x 30 gallon
4x 55 gallon
2x 75 gallon
 
I got a freaking lake going on in my basement. Of course, I will only select a few that would need a lower pH if this is what I am going to do.
 
I think what I will do is first see what animart has for water quality for pH and all that fun stuff first. I cant imagine them having different water with one tank vs the others, they carry all sorts of fish, from cichlids to angles, to tetras to guppies... well you get the picture.... tanks and fish are very well maintained, though they all share one or 2 of the same sumps so its all the same water .