How much to Feed?

[Elizabeth Falk]

Hi everyone,
So I'm new to the aquarist world, and I am trying to set up a good feeding schedule for all my fish without overfeeding. I have quite the variety of fish and food, and want to make sure everyone is getting enough. I have quite the variety of food i bought for them as well.
Here is what I have: 55gal planted
- 5 clown loaches, all still really tiny
- 2 panda mollies
- 3 Mickey Mouse Platys
- 3 different types of corys
- maybe 5inch Pleco
- 3 lace catfish (never really see them)
- 1 fire gourami
- 1 cherry barb
- 2 dalmation mollies
- 4 tetras
- 3 tiger barbs
- 2 algae eaters
- 1 tire track eel.
- 1 tiger oscar (about 6/7in long) in a sep. Tank with a pleco.

Yes, I already know about the size that each fish is going to get to. I have 4 other aquariums between 75gal and 125 gal. That I'm in the process of refurbishing.
Everyone gets along nicely, and everyone eats very quickly, but i think my guorami is starting to look bloated.
The type of food i have is, flakes, shrimp pellets, mealworms, dehydrated baby shrimp (no one likes them tho), 2 types of algae wafers, tropical tablets, freeze dried tubifex worms, dehydrated bloodworms, micro granules, frozen blood worms, frozen brine shrimp, bug bites pleco formula, grasshoppers, silversides, nightcrawlers, and homemade jello food made with peas, carrots, shrimp, mussels and squid. Just for the oscar i have Cichlid pellets, and extra large cichlid sticks. I have put a kabob of lettuce, zucchini, cucumber and spinach each morning but they aren't too interested in it.

Also i used to have 8 platy babies and they were fairly large when i got my eel, but they all just disappeared over the night, so I'm assuming she ate them, is that normal? She eats one frozen bloodworm cube at night, and ever will eat it out of my hand as i hold it.

Thanks to everyone that helps and stuck through reading all of this. I just want everyone happy.

 

[Byron]

Welcome to TFF, and to the hobby.

It is certainly a good idea to feed a variety of foods, provided the basic nutritional needs of the fish are met. And provided they are not getting too much of this or that, which would be my first concern here. I will assume you feed only one of these foods at a time, or one upper food and one lower (sinking) food. And only once a day is sufficient, except for fry but they should be in their own tank, few are likely to survive in with all these fish.

Worms, be they bloodworms, tubifex, or mealworms, whether live, frozen or dried, should only be fed once a week at most. They are not nutritional, but more importantly they are detrimental if fed too often.

Frozen foods should be completely thawed before feeding; I thaw frozen daphnia and bloodworms and shrimp in a small dish of warm water before feeding. I personally would discontinue the dehydrated foods when they are gone (or before, up to you). Soak them in tank water before feeding.

Prepared foods from a good manufacturer are about as nutritious as anything and a good way to ensure everything is being offered. Just mention this, not suggesting anything may be missing, buty I tend to rely more on three or four prepared foods and then offer frozen as treats once a week.

On another matter, as I've noticed it...you have some fish that should not be together, and while you may think all is well now, it is not. Tetras, barbs, loaches and cories are shoaling fish that must be in a group of their individual species, at least six but more is always better, and with some like cories essential to avoid stress. Tiger Barbs I would remove, these will inevitably cause trouble before long; this species is notorious as a fin nipper and any long fin or sedate fish (eel, gourami) will be targeted. Tiger Barb need a group of at least 10, and this would be best in their own 30 gallon tank; this is minimum number/tank size. In larger tanks they can have tankmates but carefully chosen ones and even then it may not work.

Clown loaches will grow to between 8 and 12 inches, and need an 8-foot tank. Just so you know; re-homing them now if this is not going to be feasible would be kinder to the fish. Loaches and cories should not be together.

 

[Elizabeth Falk]

Thank you for your reply,
Yes, so far i feed the flakes small pinch twice a day, and they get a frozen bloodworm cube 3 times a week. And a frozen brine shrimp cube 2 days a week. Dehydrated food is 2 days a week. I don't know how many of the sinking shrimp pellets to feed, along with the algae wafers. Ive been giving about 10 in morning and 10 at night. The only food that is left over is usually just the fruits and vegetables.
My tiger barbs actually don't hassle any of other fish, the 3 love to swim with my clown loaches, as my gourami will go into my floating plant to rest but he's out swimming most of the day and no one chases him.
I just got the 2 other cories because i saw they are schooling fish and that 3 should be fine. The other one has been by himself for quite a long time now, i think a couple years before i acquired the tank as he is full size.
My tank parameters have always been spot on, and have had no issues with any of that.
I'm not sure if you read it or not, but i do have 4 more large tanks that i just recently bought. I got them for when my clown loaches and other fish get bigger but right now they are only about 2 inches, and they said it usually takes about a year to get to 6in.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

The clown loaches and barbs could be housed very nicely together... they live in the same waters in their native waters... and get along fabulously. If you do put them together in the biggest tank, you won't be disappointed. And you can add more tigers to the mix for an even better display.



The livebearers should really be housed separately from the others, as they are hard water fish, and being kept in softer water, they will eventually (and not that long) die from the stress of the soft water. Placing them into a tank with a bit of calcium carbonate (crushed coral) in the filter or as a bit of the substrate will harden the water (slowly - giving them a chance to adapt to the new water) and make them much healthier.

 

[Byron]

I didn't mention water parameters previously as I thought there was sufficient to digest with other issues, but I agree with eagles. Knowing the GH and pH of your source water is important in fishkeeping.

Bloodworms should not be fed more than once a week.

My tiger barbs actually don't hassle any of other fish, the 3 love to swim with my clown loaches, as my gourami will go into my floating plant to rest but he's out swimming most of the day and no one chases him.

I will guarantee this state of peace will not last, there are dozens of other threads from those who ignored the advice and came to regret it. Give them time, and if the fish are normal they will soon behave accordingly.

I just got the 2 other cories because i saw they are schooling fish and that 3 should be fine. The other one has been by himself for quite a long time now, i think a couple years before i acquired the tank as he is full size.

Cories are shoaling fish and must have a group of five or more. I consider it cruel to the fish to force them into situations other than what they have evolved to expect. Paul Loiselle, a cichlid authority of decades, says it well in the green citation in my signature.

 

[Elizabeth Falk]

I have no idea about the hardness or softness of the water. All i know is i bring my water to be tested at least once a week and the people have said it's perfect for the variety of the type of fish i have. This tank was previously with my neoghbor for years, he gave me everything including the fish. It's not new, nor is any of the substrate new. This page won't let me upload any type of picture. Lots of live plants and algae, and the gravel is not the cheap aquarium gravel. I have no idea what you mean when you say crush coral I'm sorry.
Ok so which type of fish are ok to be together and which are not. I wasn't plaaning on transferring my clowns to the new large tank until they get bigger, cause the bigger tank is going to house my tiger oscar and i was going to use another tank to raise other cichlids until they get big enough to be with my oscar. Also i have 4 danios, not tetras. So what tank size do i need for the new split up of the fish i currently have?
Also i still do not know appropriate amount to feed everyone. Mainly my bottom feeders. I just want everyone happy.

 

[Byron]

Before I respond to specifics, let me say that we are all here to help, so our suggestions should be taken as a desire to have you succeed with healthy fish. Nothing else. When we see problems or issues it would be remiss of us not to point them out so you can have more success.

I have no idea about the hardness or softness of the water. All i know is i bring my water to be tested at least once a week and the people have said it's perfect for the variety of the type of fish i have. This tank was previously with my neoghbor for years, he gave me everything including the fish. It's not new, nor is any of the substrate new.

First, when you have a store test your water, always write down the results. Numbers, and unit of measurement where that is pertinent. Water parameters (hardness, pH, temperature) can often be indicative of this or that problem, and water condition (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) can tell us a lot about things. "Perfect water" is to begin with not even possible here, given the combination of fish with differing needs. I'll come back to this momentarily, but just say that those of us who inherit a working aquarium frequently have fish issues to sort out.
The GH (general or total hardness) and pH of your source water, presumably tap water, are important to know. I'll get to the why in a moment, but you might be able to get this data from your municipal water authority if you are on city water. Check their website, or call them during weekdays. We/you need to know the number for GH and the unit of measurement (mg/l, ppm, dGH, etc.). The pH is straightforward; a pH test kit is advisable as periodic tests of pH can warn you of issues.

I have no idea what you mean when you say crush coral I'm sorry.

Don't worry about this for the present; we can consider when we know the GH and pH.

Also i still do not know appropriate amount to feed everyone. Mainly my bottom feeders. I just want everyone happy.

My non-aquarist neighbour once asked me how did I know how much to feed each tank, and I could not answer. It is something we just learn. But upper fish being fed flake or pellet foods should clean up what you put in within a few seconds, except for slower eaters. Substrate fish might gather around sinking pellets/tabs/disks for an hour or two hours. Some days when I feed the fish (I have several tanks in a fish room) I sit down afterwards and just obs3erve them for an hour or two. This is the best time to spot things as most all of the fish will likely be out and about. I also gently tap on the tank frame with the plastic half teaspoon I use to add food (this is good to ensure you don't overfeed as you can see what is in the spoon) which acts as a meal gong, and normally secretive fish learn to come out within a few minutes as food is going to be present.

Ok so which type of fish are ok to be together and which are not. I wasn't plaaning on transferring my clowns to the new large tank until they get bigger, cause the bigger tank is going to house my tiger oscar and i was going to use another tank to raise other cichlids until they get big enough to be with my oscar. Also i have 4 danios, not tetras. So what tank size do i need for the new split up of the fish i currently have?

Oscar...needs to be alone (pleco is probably OK, but no upper fish). And no other cichlids, this species is feisty. While fish are gregarious at the juvenile stage, they will eat fishes smaller than themselves as they mature and are often intolerant of tankmates as adults. Should be maintained singly or as a mated pair; one Oscar needs a 75g tank. Additional fish require very much larger tanks. This is not a community fish for most home aquaria.
Clown loaches...a 6-foot tank is absolute minimum, and the sooner they go into it to establish their territories the better for the fish. Lots of chunks of wood with crevices/tunnels/caves.
Tiger Barb...re-home them, this is not going to work, I can assure you. I explained this previously.
Tetras, danios, barbs, cories, rainbowfish...are all shoaling and the more the better. Individual species sometimes need more than other species, but six is the minimum though again this will not work for some--like the Tiger Barbs that need 10 but on their own.
Mollies and platies like all livebearers need moderateley hard or harder water. When you know the GH we can continue this but mollies in particular willnot be healthy in soft or acidic water. All the other fish are soft water species, most will manage in a moderately soft GH depending.
Cories and loaches should not be together. Gourami need quiet tanks, meaning no active swimming fish. Most barbs and danios are active, some tetras but many of the latter are sedate fish.
Tiretrack eel...needs 150 gallon tank as it can reach 36 inches (91 cm). It may eat small fish. Nocturnal, so needs lots of hiding spots and a quiet tank.

 

[Guppylover3x]

I have no idea about the hardness or softness of the water. All i know is i bring my water to be tested at least once a week and the people have said it's perfect for the variety of the type of fish i have. This tank was previously with my neoghbor for years, he gave me everything including the fish. It's not new, nor is any of the substrate new. This page won't let me upload any type of picture. Lots of live plants and algae, and the gravel is not the cheap aquarium gravel. I have no idea what you mean when you say crush coral I'm sorry.
Ok so which type of fish are ok to be together and which are not. I wasn't plaaning on transferring my clowns to the new large tank until they get bigger, cause the bigger tank is going to house my tiger oscar and i was going to use another tank to raise other cichlids until they get big enough to be with my oscar. Also i have 4 danios, not tetras. So what tank size do i need for the new split up of the fish i currently have?
Also i still do not know appropriate amount to feed everyone. Mainly my bottom feeders. I just want everyone happy.

Your local water supplier should be able to provide information on the general water hardiness. If you can get this information we can help you to figure out if the permaters are suitable for your fish. I can confirm that sometimes your water isn’t always right. By crushing coral other members are reffering to the process you would take to make your water harder if required. I have wanted to keep a guppy tank running for a while and with the correct advice I have been able to do so with help on the forum. The water is soft in my local area, and extra minerals were required in my tank. I didn’t want to add crushed coral so I bought a supplementary powdered salt to add into my water changes as recommended. I had no idea about what peramters were ok for my guppies before I seeked advice from other members. With the correct advice I am confident your tank will do very well and your fish will certainly thrive. Good luck!