I think we have to acclimate ourselves in this hobby, and it comes with a slow drip of learning. Prevention matters, and I make sure I know what I am getting and prepare the tanks in advance. If I were to get a coastal livebearer, I would harden the water in my tank. If I am getting a Central African fish, I'll keep it as it comes from the tap here - soft. I'll have the temperature of the tank at the levels the fish would meet in nature. The tank has to be ready.
I equalize temperatures between the bag and the tank. I'm in Canada, and for quite a few months, it's cold. Fish usually arrive a little chilled. When I bought a lot of pet store fish, we semi-jokingly called half the year Ich season. If that parasite is present, thermal shock helps it out greatly. It loves a temperature shocked fish. It likes a temp that drops best, and stores tend to run around 24. So 24, in transit drop to 20, and then a quick return to 24 is in order.
I want the fish out of the ammonia and stress/fear hormone laced waters as quickly as possible, and I want none of that water to get into the tank.
We're looking at the following factors:
temperature differences;
water chemistry issues, in terms of mineral content and pH;
ammonia and hormonal build up;
often overloaded bags )too many fish, too little water);
parasites, viruses and pathogens in fish store water;
fish that may be unhealthy from the get go;
the need for speed.
Drip acclimation isn't going to go away. It'll still have some righteous supporters, as well as reasonable ones. It's an attempt to do the right thing. I don't agree with it, but most fish do survive it. Last week, on FB, I was told I was a cruel idiot who clearly had never kept fish because I suggested there were issues with drip acclimation. That attitude either way in the debate isn't helpful, but we can work past it.
I equalize temperatures between the bag and the tank. I'm in Canada, and for quite a few months, it's cold. Fish usually arrive a little chilled. When I bought a lot of pet store fish, we semi-jokingly called half the year Ich season. If that parasite is present, thermal shock helps it out greatly. It loves a temperature shocked fish. It likes a temp that drops best, and stores tend to run around 24. So 24, in transit drop to 20, and then a quick return to 24 is in order.
I want the fish out of the ammonia and stress/fear hormone laced waters as quickly as possible, and I want none of that water to get into the tank.
We're looking at the following factors:
temperature differences;
water chemistry issues, in terms of mineral content and pH;
ammonia and hormonal build up;
often overloaded bags )too many fish, too little water);
parasites, viruses and pathogens in fish store water;
fish that may be unhealthy from the get go;
the need for speed.
Drip acclimation isn't going to go away. It'll still have some righteous supporters, as well as reasonable ones. It's an attempt to do the right thing. I don't agree with it, but most fish do survive it. Last week, on FB, I was told I was a cruel idiot who clearly had never kept fish because I suggested there were issues with drip acclimation. That attitude either way in the debate isn't helpful, but we can work past it.