High Tap Nitrates Trying To Cycle?

[Magic8]

This is a tricky situation I added fish to my tank on Saturday only realizing after adding them in that the water coming from my tap has rather high nitrates about 40ppm I added some BB just before adding the fish Saturday morning I got my first ammonia reading Sunday night and did about a 15% water change Last night using water from my parents house which was only reading about 20ppm I added some API quick start after doing my water change last night the original stuff I used when first adding the fish fritzyme 7 the lfs I got everything from he was out of.I am still showing 0on nitrites but my ammonia is still at .25 should I dose my tank with a better brand of BB maybe tetra safe start.I know my problem lies in my tap with the high nitrates I plan on getting a RO unit within the next few days bug until I get it and start pulling out nitrates how do you think I should go about maintaining my tank by doing water changes I am not really removing nitrates as it is coming from my tap and any ammonia I am removing I think may hurt my cycle as the bacteria had nothing to consume.I've been told from a few company's that Just a RO unit without A DI should remove about 80-85% nitrates and I won't have to re-introduce minerals to the water I would only need to do this if I used one with A DI attachment.I was sold prime neutral regulator when I bought all my stuff That's a whole other story which I will not get into I don't need to regulate my ph as it is 7.3 coming out of my tap I just need some help on when I should be doing water changes as my tap water has readings of about 40ppm should I pick up some regular prime and dose my tank every twenty four hours to neutralize the nitrates till I get so nitrate free of at least water with less nitrates.like I said I'm in a tricky situation I have slight ammonia readings no nitrite but 40ppm because it's coming from my tap any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank;-you

 

[StevenF]

20ppm is not bad for nitrates.  Nitrates are the least toxic version on 3 forms of ntirogen typically found in a tank.  Some people don't have nitrates in their tap water and cannot get the levels below 40ppm in their aquarium with no apparent harm to their fish.  From my own experience the ideal range is between 10 and 20ppm.  Zero levels can prevent plants from consuming phosphates and potassium and that can cause them to bild up to high levels and trigger Algae blooms.  Above 20ppm some fish will suffer  while many will appear to be fine.  There is no way to know pricily what the harmful limit is.  Keep cycling your water until your ammonia and nitrates are both zero.  Once they are ate zero cycling once per week, 30% water should be fine.  
 
I personnally use RO water and it will bring your nitrate level down to zero.  
 

 
 
and I won't have to re-introduce minerals to the water I would only need to do this if I used one with A DI attachment

That is true for DI that is used for drinking water only.  However for an aquarium its a different story.  Fish will get most of their mineral from the food they eat.  So they should be fine with DI water  However for shimp and snails they will mainly be eating algae and any biofilm they can find.  That is not enough for shrimp and snails.  The mineral levels are also so low that plants will not grow.  Adding a mineralization filter to your DI setup may or may not resolve this issue since the minerals being added by the filter may not be the ones plants or shrimp need.  You you don not plan on having plants or shrimp or snails you should be OK.  
 
If you want plants you will need to use a good fertilizer to replenish all of the trace minerals.  I am currently using Seachem Flourish Comprehensive in my aquarium which also has small amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphates which you may not need.  An alternative I am currently trying in a shrimp only tank is Seachem trace + Seachem Iron.  This combination covers everything except calcium and magnesium.   So I also added calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate powder mixed in the substrate.  I could have used a few sea shells instead of the powder .  That also appears to be working well.  
 
On the RO purchase don't get remineralization filters or cartridges.  Note many of the RO systems sold in home improvement stores only have a 3 to 5 gallon storage capacity Tank.  Thats fine for drinking water and cooking but is only sufficient for small aquariums.  You can get bigger storage tanks at additional cost and unlike the small tanks, they may not fit under your sink.  You can however put enough set asside enough Ro water in a container or barrel to manage normal water maintenance.   Once the RO is installed test the water before drinking or using it in the aquarium.  Once the water is good you can use it without treating for chlorine.

 

[Magic8]

Thanks for the response my nitrates are actually right around 30-40ppm but it is coming from my tap I've heard both sides nitrates are really bad at that level as well as its nothing to be concerned about as long as my ammonia and nitrite are low even if I was to do A water change its always going to be A consistent 30-40ppm because of my tap.as far as the RO unit goes what you are saying even if I use A RODI I don't need to worry about adding minerals back into the water because the fish get it from their food am I Correct in saying this and should I be worried about nitrates or don't worry about them now wait until my tank is fully cycled

 

[StevenF]

 
 
 if I use A RODI I don't need to worry about adding minerals back into the water because the fish get it from their food

If you only plan to have fish without snails, shrimp, or plants you do not need minerals.  The fish get what they need from the food.  I After I set up my first aquarium  I had fish in it for a little over a year and they were all healthy.  
 

 
 
and should I be worried about nitrates or don't worry about them now wait until my tank is fully cycled

You always need to keep an eye on ntrate, nitrites, and ammonia.  They may spike if something goes wrong.  However if everything is going well I wouldn't be extriemyly worried with nitrates at 40ppm.  Once you get the RO system in it should drop.  You also might want to look at the link below.
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/440148-the-nitrate-debate/?hl=nitrates#entry3727353

 

[Magic8]

Thanks for pointing that link out I'm kind of like Akasha I tend to over analyze things and worry.The only thing with her she has high nitrates in her water mine are coming from my tap but right now that's where they are staying I'm only 5 days into A cycle so I really don't want to do any major water changes as I am doing A fish in cycle although I just had a monkey wrench thrown into things as I think I may have ich can't be positive but it looks like it so I slowly started raising my temperature tonight once I get it up to 86 I will throw some salt in I really don't want to do any water changes unless my ammonia spikes because I don't want to lose my cycle any ideas Steve I do have a UV light built into my filter which I turned off when I added the bacteria should I turn that back on to help I am going to post this subject in another spot and try to get some feed-back thanks for the info on the RO system and putting my mind at ease a little with me having nitrates around 40ppm

 

[StevenF]

 
 
I do have a UV light built into my filter which I turned off when I added the bacteria should I turn that back on to help 

Most people like to think that the bacteria only live in the filter.  They don't.  they live everywhere in your aquarium.  In regards to the filter UV light.  Is there any plastic between it and the filter media?I would think the media is in a separate section of thee filter with plastic walls that block the light.  If so the light will not impact the media and the bacteria in it. In addition the substrate will eventually be colonized with bacteria.  I would recommend turning on the light.