Hi - Im New And Having A Nightmare With Fish Keeping

Hi Leecra,
Sorry to jump in when Underwurlde has been helping you along this far :) From your posts I'd agree with him that your tank is still in the process of cycling. As you have discovered, leaving a tank sitting for a couple of weeks is not cycling and really makes no difference.
As for the advice of fish shops, you live and learn. Hopefully in future you'll be able to tell *them* where they are messing up!

Your current stock level looks about right for that size of tank. I certainly woudln't add any more fish. Adding the plant is entirely up to you, I think Underwurlde was trying to warn you of the perils of snails ;) If you're going to add the plant make sure you check it for any signs of snails or snail eggs first. Plants do use nitrates etc as food, but one plant won't make any significant difference. Consider it as decor :)
Assuming you have your own test kit, you should probably be testing for ammonia and nitrIte daily until you see your ammonia staying at 0 and your nitrIte start to rise. If your ammonia or nitrite readings get too high then do a water change to bring the levels back down for the benefit of your fish (20% or there abouts, daily if necessary).
Make sure any water you add to the tank has been dechlorinated beforehand so you don't kill the bacteria in your filter and setback your cycle even more. Don't change too much at a time since you need to make sure there is still some ammonia/nitrIte to feed the developing bacteria.

Is your filter a "Fluval 2 Plus" ? If so then your filtration is fine for the size of your tank. Even if it's not a plus model it should still be fine. I wouldn't worry about extra filters for the tank. As a last note, if/when you decide to rinse out the sponge in the filter be sure you do so in aquarium water, not tap water. The easiest way is to use the water you take out of the tank in a water change. You shouldn't need to do that until the tank has completed its cycle tho.

Sorry for rambling, good luck with your tank !

Glod.

P.s. :hi: to TFF :)
 
Hi Leecra,
Sorry to jump in when Underwurlde has been helping you along this far :) From your posts I'd agree with him that your tank is still in the process of cycling. As you have discovered, leaving a tank sitting for a couple of weeks is not cycling and really makes no difference.
As for the advice of fish shops, you live and learn. Hopefully in future you'll be able to tell *them* where they are messing up!

Your current stock level looks about right for that size of tank. I certainly woudln't add any more fish. Adding the plant is entirely up to you, I think Underwurlde was trying to warn you of the perils of snails ;) If you're going to add the plant make sure you check it for any signs of snails or snail eggs first. Plants do use nitrates etc as food, but one plant won't make any significant difference. Consider it as decor :)
Assuming you have your own test kit, you should probably be testing for ammonia and nitrIte daily until you see your ammonia staying at 0 and your nitrIte start to rise. If your ammonia or nitrite readings get too high then do a water change to bring the levels back down for the benefit of your fish (20% or there abouts, daily if necessary).
Make sure any water you add to the tank has been dechlorinated beforehand so you don't kill the bacteria in your filter and setback your cycle even more. Don't change too much at a time since you need to make sure there is still some ammonia/nitrIte to feed the developing bacteria.

Is your filter a "Fluval 2 Plus" ? If so then your filtration is fine for the size of your tank. Even if it's not a plus model it should still be fine. I wouldn't worry about extra filters for the tank. As a last note, if/when you decide to rinse out the sponge in the filter be sure you do so in aquarium water, not tap water. The easiest way is to use the water you take out of the tank in a water change. You shouldn't need to do that until the tank has completed its cycle tho.

Sorry for rambling, good luck with your tank !

Glod.

P.s. :hi: to TFF :)

Wise words Glod, nicely put.
Andy, good detailed answers but very complex for a beginer to take in, all she wants to do is sort her tank out.

A U/G filter would solve the problem with a powerhead (powerheads are mainly for marine keepers???? What???) Every single piece of gravel covered in bacteria (even better if using aqua grit cos its porous) compared the 3 tiny sponges in a fluval 2 there is no comparison as to which will filter the tank more efficiently?

There are only 7 fish left and I doubt the rams will survive, the newer tank is only 4 days old, so apart from more stress for fish now is the ideal time to strip it down again and start ffrom scratch. I agree my recommendations are no means ideal but it will mean a clean slate with a basic plan to succeeding without the disasterous results of her first attempt.

On my own 90g tank I run an Eheim 2217 and 2226 both running as biological filters (I.e glorified UG) I Ephimech and EphiSubstrat Pro and graded sponges. Both are porous media allowing maximum surface area for the bacteria to colonise.

This is advice the LFS should have offered you in the place:

2-3 das after you have set the tank come back and get your few fish. You should get no more than 6 fish to begin with, unfortunately these are going be used as guinea pigs to begin (you should expect to lose at least one of them). Once you add the fiish start to use the suplimanted bacteria. The tank will start to mature once fish start to produce organic waste. After a couple of the days the Nitirite is going to begin to surge, it will be very toxic to the fish when it peaks, once it has peaked it will start to drop just as the Amonnia starts to rise this too will be very toxic when it peaks (and very uncomfortable for any fish living in it) by the end of week 4 the Amonnia will have reduced to zero but the Nitrate will have started to rise sharpley this is unavoidable but the begining of the final phase of the maturation prpcess. Nitrate is the least harmful of the 3 and is a by product of the previous 2. After week 1 you need to get into into the habit of doing a weekly water change between 25-30% once a week (this is the most important part of keeping a succesful tank) also during the first 6 weeks keep the feeding down to a minimum (once evry other day) it is better to under feed than to over feed. After weeks 2/4/6 bring a water sample for me to test so I can explain using the results what is happening in your aquarium and make a recomendation as to wether you should add more fish or not. I know it sounds difficult but it really isn't as long as you stick with the 3 golden rules:
1. Weekly water changes
2. Don't over feed
3. Don't over stock

If you stick to this you won't have any problems. If you do get a problem, give us a call.

See if you can spot the person that has been selling fish tanks for to long, I must have preached that to at least 3 people yesterday. My Dad, my brother and anyone that works for us all sing off the same song sheet. It is very well tried and tested formula.

And incidentally we have over 150 dsiplay aquariums each running on Under Gravel filters they are very heavily stocked and run perfectly!

Andy I notice you are in Hampshire as is Nicole I think can you recommend a good LFS for her to use?

Hi Leecra,
Sorry to jump in when Underwurlde has been helping you along this far :) From your posts I'd agree with him that your tank is still in the process of cycling. As you have discovered, leaving a tank sitting for a couple of weeks is not cycling and really makes no difference.
As for the advice of fish shops, you live and learn. Hopefully in future you'll be able to tell *them* where they are messing up!

Your current stock level looks about right for that size of tank. I certainly woudln't add any more fish. Adding the plant is entirely up to you, I think Underwurlde was trying to warn you of the perils of snails ;) If you're going to add the plant make sure you check it for any signs of snails or snail eggs first. Plants do use nitrates etc as food, but one plant won't make any significant difference. Consider it as decor :)
Assuming you have your own test kit, you should probably be testing for ammonia and nitrIte daily until you see your ammonia staying at 0 and your nitrIte start to rise. If your ammonia or nitrite readings get too high then do a water change to bring the levels back down for the benefit of your fish (20% or there abouts, daily if necessary).
Make sure any water you add to the tank has been dechlorinated beforehand so you don't kill the bacteria in your filter and setback your cycle even more. Don't change too much at a time since you need to make sure there is still some ammonia/nitrIte to feed the developing bacteria.

Is your filter a "Fluval 2 Plus" ? If so then your filtration is fine for the size of your tank. Even if it's not a plus model it should still be fine. I wouldn't worry about extra filters for the tank. As a last note, if/when you decide to rinse out the sponge in the filter be sure you do so in aquarium water, not tap water. The easiest way is to use the water you take out of the tank in a water change. You shouldn't need to do that until the tank has completed its cycle tho.

Sorry for rambling, good luck with your tank !

Glod.

P.s. :hi: to TFF :)

Wise words Glod, nicely put.
Andy, good detailed answers but very complex for a beginer to take in, all she wants to do is sort her tank out.

A U/G filter would solve the problem with a powerhead (powerheads are mainly for marine keepers???? What???) Every single piece of gravel covered in bacteria (even better if using aqua grit cos its porous) compared the 3 tiny sponges in a fluval 2 there is no comparison as to which will filter the tank more efficiently?

There are only 7 fish left and I doubt the rams will survive, the newer tank is only 4 days old, so apart from more stress for fish now is the ideal time to strip it down again and start ffrom scratch. I agree my recommendations are no means ideal but it will mean a clean slate with a basic plan to succeeding without the disasterous results of her first attempt.

On my own 90g tank I run an Eheim 2217 and 2226 both running as biological filters (I.e glorified UG) I Ephimech and EphiSubstrat Pro and graded sponges. Both are porous media allowing maximum surface area for the bacteria to colonise.

This is advice the LFS should have offered you in the place:

2-3 das after you have set the tank come back and get your few fish. You should get no more than 6 fish to begin with, unfortunately these are going be used as guinea pigs to begin (you should expect to lose at least one of them). Once you add the fiish start to use the suplimanted bacteria. The tank will start to mature once fish start to produce organic waste. After a couple of the days the Nitirite is going to begin to surge, it will be very toxic to the fish when it peaks, once it has peaked it will start to drop just as the Amonnia starts to rise this too will be very toxic when it peaks (and very uncomfortable for any fish living in it) by the end of week 4 the Amonnia will have reduced to zero but the Nitrate will have started to rise sharpley this is unavoidable but the begining of the final phase of the maturation prpcess. Nitrate is the least harmful of the 3 and is a by product of the previous 2. After week 1 you need to get into into the habit of doing a weekly water change between 25-30% once a week (this is the most important part of keeping a succesful tank) also during the first 6 weeks keep the feeding down to a minimum (once evry other day) it is better to under feed than to over feed. After weeks 2/4/6 bring a water sample for me to test so I can explain using the results what is happening in your aquarium and make a recomendation as to wether you should add more fish or not. I know it sounds difficult but it really isn't as long as you stick with the 3 golden rules:
1. Weekly water changes
2. Don't over feed
3. Don't over stock

If you stick to this you won't have any problems. If you do get a problem, give us a call.

See if you can spot the person that has been selling fish tanks for to long, I must have preached that to at least 3 people yesterday. My Dad, my brother and anyone that works for us all sing off the same song sheet. It is very well tried and tested formula.

And incidentally we have over 150 dsiplay aquariums each running on Under Gravel filters they are very heavily stocked and run perfectly!

Andy I notice you are in Hampshire as is Nicole I think can you recommend a good LFS for her to use?
 
Its pretty awful that a Aquarium thats sole purpose is to sell fish is all to willing to sell incompatible fish and lots of them to a tank to small..it is pretty much the LFS fault...some say research fish keeping but it's amazing that if you don't keep fish cycling doesn't even seem to exist...I had never heard of cycling before keeping fish...and my LFS never told me about cycling either
 
@Glod – think you for backing me up.

Adding the plant is entirely up to you, I think Underwurlde was trying to warn you of the perils of snails
To an extent, but keeping plants is far more complicated than keeping fish. CO2, correct lighting, correct plant selection estimative index… Just best avoided for the beginner. I agree, one plant on it’s own will not do much.

@SilverDub – I think you are living in the past mate.

I don’t think an under gravel filter is the way to go.. Like I said, they are old fashioned and there are much better, easier to use and cheaper alternatives out there. Also therefore no need for power-heads and the such like in a FW set-up (which is what I was trying to say).

Reasons not to use one:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=161416
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=168155
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=160998
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=160318

Bored now, but the list goes on. Up to you really. I wouldn’t bother with one. I don't want to turn this thread into a discussion about the pro's and cons of UGFs.

2-3 das after you have set the tank come back and get your few fish. You should get no more than 6 fish to begin with, unfortunately these are going be used as guinea pigs to begin (you should expect to lose at least one of them)…. Blah blah
Your cycling advice is also poor & outdated. Read the pinned topics on cycling as DoyouWantsum suggests!

Andy, good detailed answers but very complex for a beginner to take in, all she wants to do is sort her tank out.
Detailed! This is what she NEEDS to know – I have simplified much of it for her! I think she is getting bored with ‘advice’ from fish shops!!

Andy
 
Andy your right this is getting boring now!

I read your link, thanks and find it quite interesting. This is the first time I've come across this method. In the the not to distant future I will be testing this method for myself, as I will also be testing the Easy Balance method.

As I said before you have some good advice as I'm sure we all do. But as with anything everybody has there own tried and tested methods, just like everybody has there own prefered way of doing things.

I guess on somethings we have to agree to disagree.
 
Agreed! Or is that disagreed? - this is what a forum is all about...

Andy
 
Don't you think its about time the lfs started donating bacteria from there media :crazy: to there new customers its a joke, and a shame that so many get put off the hobby because of the incompentance of the few lfs or is it.

Welcome to the forum you will get there in the end it's a fantastic hobby and my kids love it. :good:
 
HI everyone - Thanks for all this advise, sorry for delay, been away for two days. To answer a question, when I add water I use Tetra Aqua Safe, and I put it in the water equivalant to the water I am adding, (5 ml for 10litres, ao I change 20 litres and add 10ml) then I put the water in the tank, provididng the temp is right.

I must say I thought I would be able to put more than 7 little fishes in my tank,

My readings are begining stabalise slightly, however perhaps you can help me - I may have made a mistake, I did put in an underground filter, as I thought it would not hurt but help, I thought I would just run it along side my fluval 2 plus, but all the reccommended pumps, are sooooooooo... very noisy, not like my little tetrac 50 for my airstone, would you take it out, if I did decided not to run it could I leave the bottom plate and the upright in place to save hassle of removing it, and just not use it, or do you think this would create a buildd up of waste at the bottom of the tank underneath the gravelk and the plate, with no means of it being removed. My fluval 2 plus is so loveley and quiet you can't beat it,.
 
I have just read through the thread again, It i still very confusing, but definately sinking in, i don't want you all to argue about what is right and what is wrong, I have discovered that everyone has there own tried and tested formulas, the best way is take advice from all, and take the bits you need ( and hope it works), however as I said before, I don't have a power head, I would only run the UG filter with a pump, and for the pump to be big enough they are too noisy. So could someone either reccommend a very very quiet one for 88 litres or tell me if I can not use the UG ( see my previous question). Or as I have the fluval could I run the UG on my Tetrac 50, or would that be a waste of time as it isn't strong enough and would not create a vacuum enough at the bottom.This whole business it costing me a fortune.
..................................



I have just read the thread links attached, and as much as I appreciate the help from Silverdub, and to my son's annoyance - and my Husbands feeling of neglect, I think I nead to remove the UG filter - more waste of money effort and time. I don't want to strip my tank and end up with more problems further down the line.

So my ammonia yeaterday was 0
Nitrate was .25
Nitrate 5
PH 7.8

Don't understand whay the PH level changes - Please could someone get back to me.

Dube a water change on Saturday - or would you change before

Thanks you in advance.
 
I apologise for any confusion... I'd say this hobby is difficult to get into at first, but then it becomes 2nd nature and on the whole very low maintenance.

I know nothing of UGFs so can't help on that front, but like I said, what you had as your setup was absolutely fine IMHO.

I must say I thought I would be able to put more than 7 little fishes in my tank,
But the 7 little fishies you have now will grow... :shifty:

Don't understand whay the PH level changes - Please could someone get back to me.
pH will fluctuate while your tank cycles (I think).

pH is also (obviously) heavily dependant on your tap water & there is no guarantee that the source (i.e. the water company) remains stable. You can put A LOT of time, effort & money into stabilizing pH..... Personally I think this is a bit extereme and I just let my tank get on with it. Hugely fluctuating pH IS bad for your fish, but from what you've described I wouldn't worry.

So my ammonia yeaterday was 0
Nitrate was .25
Nitrate 5
PH 7.8
I would be tempted to do a small 10 - 25% water change (daily) until those levels settle down....

Andy
 
Your PH was 7.8 on the 11th so hopefully the first reading you gave us was just a missreading.

I still agree with the small water changes untill your readings of ammonia and nitrite are 0.
 
Filter

If you don't want to run the UG filter your fluval is quite capable of handling the filtration on its own, so that is not a problem. Removing it, or leaving it in the tank shouldn't really make much of a difference, as long as you give the gravel a good vac when you do your water changes it will be ok.

Dechlor

Aquasafe is the same dechlor that I use, works fine for me. Seems to do what it says on the bottle :)

PH

What it might be worth doing is testing a sample of your tap water after it's been left to sit overnight, so you can see what you're putting into the tank. Many things can affect the PH of your tank, the cycle itself can have a minor effect but unless your water is very soft it shouldn't be a large swing. Bogwood or rocks in the tank can also affect the PH (wood tends to lower it, some rocks can raise it).

Tank Stats

0 Ammonia is good, that is what you want.

.25 nitrIte is a bit high, ideally you want it to be 0, but that will come with time and good tank maintenance.

5 Nitrate is also perfectly acceptable, anything less than say 40 shouldn't cause you any problems. (Some people will say anything below 100 is fine, but still the lower the better.)

If you're worried about your PH changing a lot try and find the cause of the changes. I would advise against adding any chemicals to control the PH of the tank.

Water Changes

As long as your tank is showing NitrIte or Ammonia you should be doing small 20% ish water changes every day or two to keep those levels under control. It's better to do several small changes while the tank is cycling than one large change to keep your tank conditions more steady. Large swings in tank stats are stresssful for the fish, stress in fish can depress their immune systems and let disease break out.



Hope that helps a bit, if anything is unclear let us know and we'll try to clarify things :)
 
I do not believe that you have to start again from scratch – this is very drastic measure! I also don’t think you need under-gravel filtration (an utter sod to install now you have fish) and is now considered an old-fashioned approach to fish-keeping. You also don’t need a power-head – this is mainly for marine tank setups.


Hey, I am fairly new at this to, have had an aqaurium for about 3-4 months now. I have had a lot of help from a local aquarium store owner, who for the most part, other then being high priced, has seemed to know what hes talkin about. I did a lot of research before starting my tank, it is a 29 gallon tank, I have 3 scissortails, 2 angels, 1 golden wonder killi, and one dragon fish. I have had 2 fish die, both angels, and I have replaced both of them. I started with an undergravel filter, without the carbon, like the fish store owner recommended, and it has done a wonderful job. it may be "old-fashioned" but it works about twice as well as the power filter that came with the tank. now I still have that, and even run it on occasion if the water gets a little murky (hasnt happenned for awhile, for awhile I was feeding the dragon shrimp pellets, and if i accidently dropped one to many in the tanked clouded over, and the fish wouldnt eat them anyway) now you can run your tank fine with another type filter im sure, but I love my UG. it has been keeping all my levels where they need to be, and other then the loss of those 2 angels (one of which was a wal-mart angel that died the day i brought it home, dont buy walmart fish) all my fish are healthy. it does not have a powerhead, nor do I think I would ever need one, unless I was to really go crazy and get a 55 gallon on up.anyway though, even if you dont get an UG, I would agree with these guys, either get another filter or a bigger one, and live plants really are not necessary. they are a pain, I bought two for mine and they have yet to sprout. rather annoying. anyway, well ill stop wasting space lol.

I have just read through the thread again, It i still very confusing, but definately sinking in, i don't want you all to argue about what is right and what is wrong, I have discovered that everyone has there own tried and tested formulas, the best way is take advice from all, and take the bits you need ( and hope it works), however as I said before, I don't have a power head, I would only run the UG filter with a pump, and for the pump to be big enough they are too noisy. So could someone either reccommend a very very quiet one for 88 litres or tell me if I can not use the UG ( see my previous question). Or as I have the fluval could I run the UG on my Tetrac 50, or would that be a waste of time as it isn't strong enough and would not create a vacuum enough at the bottom.This whole business it costing me a fortune.
..................................



there are quiet air pumps out there. the one Im running my UG filter on is extremely quiete. it is running 3 seperate plates, and I can hardly hear it when im right next to the tank, the guy who sold it to me gave me good advice to purchase it. I believe it is a whisper, but Im not sure, I will have to check and get back to you, since it is at my fiancees apartment. like I said in previous post you do not need the powerhead at all. and if your concerned about not having enough suction, just dont put in the carbon, improves the water flow tremendously. I placed my pump below the tank even though the directions said to place it above, and it provides more then enough water flow and keeps the tank clean. but also like other guys said, since you already have an aquarium with fish and water in it, installing an undergravel would be a pain in the butt, and since your having difficulty keeping the fish alive its best not to give them anymore stress. just keep doin all the other stuff they recomend, perhaps get another filter or a bigger one, at least until they all die off and then upgrade to a UG if you feel the need. and yes, this is an expensive hobby-my 29 gallon tropical aquarium has cost me in the area of $300 and im sure thats on the cheap end as far as some enthusiasts go. . .
 
Thanks it is nice to hear someone elses story, I am still trying to keep my fish alive. but i don't think i am doing a good job as one of my Rams is poorly, and keeps sitting on the bottom of the tank, and he looks verk dark, not like she used too be, she used to be quite bright.

im am thinking of introducing some more fish into the tank about friday-ish but am not sure what to introduce plz can u help me choose the right fish to get for my tank it would much be appreciated

plz plz let me know if you have also have some advice to share with me -thanks
 

Most reactions

Back
Top