Help! Ammonia zero but Nitrite very high!

Switch to a filter that doesn't need a cartridge change... It will save you money AND its better for the tank. When you keep changing a filter cartridge, you are also getting rid of any beneficial bacteria that was being build up. This is also probably why your tank is not cycled and has a nitrite build up.
Agree but in the short term does the cartridge has negative effect on medicating with salt?
 
Agree but in the short term does the cartridge has negative effect on medicating with salt?
I honestly don't know. I wouldn't think so though. Carbon removes medications like the ones in bottles. This is why they say to take the carbon out because it affects the chemicals. But I don't think it affects the salt at all.
 
carbon does not remove salt from the water.
you can safely use salt and have a carbon filter too.
 
The salt is for nitrite not ich, so use the calculation here to work out how much salt to add. It should be a lot less than 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons.

Take some tank water into a jug, add the salt to that and make sure it is fully dissolve before pouring it slowly back into the tank.
 
The salt is for nitrite not ich, so use the calculation here to work out how much salt to add. It should be a lot less than 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons.

Take some tank water into a jug, add the salt to that and make sure it is fully dissolve before pouring it slowly back into the tank.
Yes but since I have two problems currently Nitrite and ich I am thinking to treat both with salt
 
Salt doesn't kill ich. Only heat and those rough medications kill ich. That's why I suggested using only enough to protect the fish against nitrite.
 
Salt doesn't kill ich. Only heat and those rough medications kill ich. That's why I suggested using only enough to protect the fish against nitrite.
Do you think my Albino Crories can support 86 F degrees? I also have a Dwarf Gourami, 3 Silver dollars and 6 serpae tetras. Thanks in advance!
 
They'll be fine for the couple of weeks treatment takes. I don't know what summers are like in Ottawa but there are lots of members in warmer climates who have these fish, and they are OK in summer heatwaves at or above this temperature. Long term is one thing, a short period of a week or two shouldn't be a problem.
 
I want to give an update on this. As recommended by our members here I raised the temperature to 86 degrees. I also bought a powerhead to increase aeration (oxygen). The fish are ok eating well and moving normally. The silver dollars have less white spots now but I noticed that other species have also few spots now (probably I did not notice this before).

Today, while performing water change I vacuumed hundereds of what I think are ich cysts (small browny cotton like pieces)!!! I was shocked of the amount I vacuumed although I did yesterday a water change but did not notice this....I am afraid that heat is making their reproduction easier and faster!!! Should I just be patient?
 
Today, while performing water change I vacuumed hundreds of what I think are ich cysts (small browny cotton like pieces)!!! I was shocked of the amount I vacuumed although I did yesterday a water change but did not notice this....I am afraid that heat is making their reproduction easier and faster!!! Should I just be patient?
The white spot cysts are white, not brown. That could be uneaten food or just rotting fish waste.

If the temperature was only just increased, there might have been free swimming parasites in the water that have only just now, shown up as white spots after attaching themselves to the fish.

The warmer water does speed up their life cycle, but it also kills the free swimming parasites, assuming the water is actually 30C (86F). You need to check this with a thermometer in the water, and preferably have the thermometer at the opposite end of the tank to the heater. If the temperature is 1 degree less, it won't kill the parasites. If you are concerned, increase it to 31C (88F).

If the heater is having trouble keeping the water warm, insulate the back and sides of the tank with 1-2 inch thick polystyrene foam sheets. Just tape them to the outside of the glass.

Make sure you have a coverglass on the tank to trap heat. Coverglass should be made from 4, 5 or 6mm thick glass because it is less likely to chip or crack than 2 or 3mm thick glass.
 
I lost one Cory dead this morning. She was stuck on the powerhead intake. Yesterday it was lying there but was breathing so I thought she might have liked the vacuuming effect there. Do you think the power head intake should.be covered somehow.or. it is the fish was sick? Maybe the salt I have added?
 
I lost one Cory dead this morning. She was stuck on the powerhead intake. Yesterday it was lying there but was breathing so I thought she might have liked the vacuuming effect there. Do you think the power head intake should.be covered somehow.or. it is the fish was sick? Maybe the salt I have added?
Wait is it alive or dead? And its probably best to cover up the intake... I don't know how as I have never used one, but I'm sure someone here would know how
 
Wait is it alive or dead? And its probably best to cover up the intake... I don't know how as I have never used one, but I'm sure someone here would know how
Its dead unfortunately. I think this Cory was not very active anyway. I am not even sure that my cories are eating because the other fish won't let them eat. Even bottom feeder food is taken by the other fish....problematic really.
 
Fish that are really sick or dead will be sucked onto the intake strainer of power filters.

You can get cylindrical sponges for some brands of internal power filter. These sponges have a hole through the center and slide over the intake strainer of most filters. Just take the sponge off each week and wash it, then put it back on.
 
Hello everyone I would like to post an update on this topic. Today finally I got 0 nitrate and zero ammonia so I guess my cycle is done now. this is a very good achievement for my first tank. I also have almost zero white spots so I guess ich outbreak is almost over. I will also wait for a couple of days to week with this high temperature before I bring the temperature back to normal.

So as a summary what I've done is the following. first as suggested by the members here I raised the temperature to 87°. I've also added one teaspoon of salt per gallon which is equivalent to around 1 gram per liter. I've added salt because of the ich and also I was afraid that my fish will get some other bacteria or infections and also I have the problem of Nitrite. In addition I've been doing water changes every day almost 50%. I've also replaced the water conditioner that I was using which was API stress coat with the secham prime which I guess is better because it's detoxifies also nitrite and ammonia. I've also bought a powerhead to increase the oxygen and water circulation specially during this heated period. Unfortunately during the process I've lost one Cory cat and I think I'm going to lost the second one because I have second Cory that is not moving and it's not too active not eating so I guess it's pretty sick or something.

Again many thanks for all of you and I'm looking for my second tank. I'm thinking to get a small tank for raising guppies which need harder water. My plan is to do crashed Coral as my substrate and hopefully this will increase the hardness of my soft water so that I can keep and breed guppies easily.
 

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