Hello, how to make sure water changes don’t affect the pH in my tank?

[maritzsa]

Hey, I am super new here and I just signed up because I have a lengthy question that I can’t really find the answer to online;

So I have a heavily planted 10 gallon with Harlequin Rasboras and some shrimp where my PH is around 7.2, the same as the water from my house. I wanted to bring it closer to 7.0 and soften the water more by adding peat moss to my filter and it seems that it will work. However I will move the aquarium to my college dorm next semester and the water there is very hard (I can’t seem to find the exact pH online). How will I do water changes with the tap water there without constantly shifting the ph in the aquarium? I have Seachem’s neutral regulator and discus buffer in case I need them but I don’t want to use so many chemicals in the water. Or is this the only solution to making sure a water change doesn’t drastically shift the pH of my tank?

 

[Byron]

Adjusting parameters especially pH is a complicated process. The pH of the source water is what it is because of the water chemistry, and this is generally not something that chemicals can alter safely or permanently. The GH and KH impact pH, and the higher these are the more resistant the pH will be to change. And if one persists, it can suddeny literally implode and harm if not kill fish.

You are better to go with what the source water is, and select suitable fish. If you do adjust the parameters, the GH must be dealt with or you will never lower the pH. Diluting the harder source water until the GH is on the soft side is the key, which means preparing water externally for any water changes. Depending what the GH/KH are in the end, the pH will likely lower accordingly. It all depends on thee numbers as they are inter-connected.

This is simplistic in explanation, but it is the key.

 

[Guyb93]

I wouldn’t even try and change it , it’s just a natural process, my tap water is 6.5 by end of the week it’s 6 simply because my tank lay out lots of wood and plants a lot of my plants are dying also which I leave in lol I wouldn’t worry about match the ph on water changes as a change of 0.5 won’t harm your fish being gradual and changing your ph by 0.3-0.5 isn’t really going to make a difference to health quality of the fish

 

[Slaphppy7]

Stable ph is always better than one that fluctuates.

 

[Byron]

ignore this post, my mind is stillnot up to scratch! Quote below is the actual post.

 

[Byron]

I wouldn’t even try and change it , it’s just a natural process, my tap water is 6.5 by end of the week it’s 6 simply because my tank lay out lots of wood and plants a lot of my plants are dying also which I leave in lol I wouldn’t worry about match the ph on water changes as a change of 0.5 won’t harm your fish being gradual and changing your ph by 0.3-0.5 isn’t really going to make a difference to health quality of the fish

This is very true. My tanks may change by several decimal points each water change, and have for years now. Mind you, it depends upon the change...a change of say 6.5 up to 7 and back is safe, but if it becomes say 6.5 up to 7.5 that can be a very different thing. Without explaining the chemistry, it is the acid/basic factor that can affect fish physiology more than merely becoming somewhat more or less acid but remaining acidic, if that makes sense.

 

[seangee]

This is very true. My tanks may change by several decimal points each water change, and have for years now. Mind you, it depends upon the change...a change of say 6.5 up to 7 and back is safe, but if it becomes say 6.5 up to 7.5 that can be a very different thing. Without explaining the chemistry, it is the acid/basic factor that can affect fish physiology more than merely becoming somewhat more or less acid but remaining acidic, if that makes sense.

Great to see you up and about @Byron

 

[mbsqw1d]

Is a danger of a fluctuating PH that ammonia also fluctuates between states of ammonia and ammonium? I'm not sure how this, if at all, effects the nitrifying bacterias/archae organisms

 

[Byron]

Is a danger of a fluctuating PH that ammonia also fluctuates between states of ammonia and ammonium? I'm not sure how this, if at all, effects the nitrifying bacterias/archae organisms

Partly (depending) but not entirely. Re the ammonia, again ignoring the chemistry and just stating the end result, ammonia in acidic water will be proportionally ammonium not ammonia, and ammonium is generally speaking harmless to aquatic life. Aquatic plants need nitrogen of course, and they prefer it as ammonium. They even change nitrate back into ammonium in order to more readily assimilate it. In basic water (pH above 7) the "ammonia" is ammonia, again all depending upon levels and factors. But a sudden change from very acidic to basic pH if ammonia is extensively present as can occur when water changes/maintenance are not regular can be death as the ammonium rapidly becomes ammonia. But as I said, this is not usually the issue.

[As you mention bacteria/archaea, these will take up ammonia or ammonium. However, in basic water you do need to cycle the tank, something that is not necessary in acidic water because the ammonium is harmless, the bacteria/arachaea if present will use it anyway, and since the nitrite may not even be relevant if the pH is at 6 or below since the nitrifyers cannot function or perhaps even exist...life is easy!]

Each species of freshwater fish has evolved to function in a very specific environment. This obviously includes the parameters of the fish's habitat water. As soon as you start fiddling with these, and again depending upon the degree and other factors, it can make life very difficult for the poor fish who has no means of escape. It is a case of adapt or die. While some argue that adaptation is possible, and in some species it certainly is, it still takes a toll on the fish's metabolism.

I never fuss over pH. I ensure the GH is suited to the fish, and the pH will then settle itself and remain incredibly stable, depending upon the GH and KH of course. I have basically zero GH and KH in my sour4ce water, so I keep only soft water fish species. I know some of the tanks have a pH down below 5, but I've no idea what beyond that. I have primarily wild caught fish that live up to or exceed their expectancy, and most spawn (the odd egg/fry surviving indicates this).

 

[maritzsa]

Adjusting parameters especially pH is a complicated process. The pH of the source water is what it is because of the water chemistry, and this is generally not something that chemicals can alter safely or permanently. The GH and KH impact pH, and the higher these are the more resistant the pH will be to change. And if one persists, it can suddeny literally implode and harm if not kill fish.

You are better to go with what the source water is, and select suitable fish. If you do adjust the parameters, the GH must be dealt with or you will never lower the pH. Diluting the harder source water until the GH is on the soft side is the key, which means preparing water externally for any water changes. Depending what the GH/KH are in the end, the pH will likely lower accordingly. It all depends on thee numbers as they are inter-connected.

This is simplistic in explanation, but it is the key.

But even if I wanted to choose suitable fish I am attached to the animals I own rn how will I just replace them? Maybe I can slowly acclimate them to the higher ph water as if I was bringing them into the aquarium for the first time. Like drip acclimating and floating them on the water . You think that will help me avoid a pH shock? I really love my Harlequin Rasboras and my betta, I’ve heard they will adjust to a higher pH but how best can I avoid an initial shock. Should I carry water from my current aquarium to my campus to keep them in that water and slowly transition? Any info is useful thank you!

 

[mbsqw1d]

But even if I wanted to choose suitable fish I am attached to the animals I own rn how will I just replace them? Maybe I can slowly acclimate them to the higher ph water as if I was bringing them into the aquarium for the first time. Like drip acclimating and floating them on the water . You think that will help me avoid a pH shock? I really love my Harlequin Rasboras and my betta, I’ve heard they will adjust to a higher pH but how best can I avoid an initial shock. Should I carry water from my current aquarium to my campus to keep them in that water and slowly transition? Any info is useful thank you!

Concern yourself more with general hardness (GH) and PH will follow. Do you know the measure of hardness of your current water and that of your college's supply? You may be able to source this info from water supplier's website.
If your college has considerably harder water, the most effective method of reducing hardness is to dilute with Reverse Osmosis (RO) water. RO water can be purchased from numerous places, if the mixture turned out to be 50:50 then you'd need approx 10 gallons per month to facilitate weekly water changes.

Again, concentrate on reducing GH, potentially by mixing with RO, and this will also reduce KH and PH.

 

[Pidge1992]

Biggest thing is stable ph. Example (since everyone had already discussed kh and gh too) my taps ph is 8.5 and the kh is very high but my gh is basically zero. So my water is actually very soft but has high ph, the kh just makes that ph very stable, it NEVER fluctuates. That being said I keep mostly tetras. They notoriously like soft acidic water. My water is very soft but not acidic. When I get new fish I float them for 30 min to an hour slowly adding in some of my tank water before putting them in. They adjust to the high ph fine and since I don’t get any fluctuations they do great. So essentially, just make sure you acclimate slowly to the new water and your fish should be ok as long as the water is stable. See if you can test your dorm water before taking the tank there. You can post results if you want more advice then.

edit: and yes... my water is wack... it’s NOT normal to have high ph and soft water... but it is what it is ?‍

 

[mbsqw1d]

Biggest thing is stable ph. Example (since everyone had already discussed kh and gh too) my taps ph is 8.5 and the kh is very high but my gh is basically zero. So my water is actually very soft but has high ph, the kh just makes that ph very stable, it NEVER fluctuates. That being said I keep mostly tetras. They notoriously like soft acidic water. My water is very soft but not acidic. When I get new fish I float them for 30 min to an hour slowly adding in some of my tank water before putting them in. They adjust to the high ph fine and since I don’t get any fluctuations they do great. So essentially, just make sure you acclimate slowly to the new water and your fish should be ok as long as the water is stable. See if you can test your dorm water before taking the tank there. You can post results if you want more advice then.

edit: and yes... my water is wack... it’s NOT normal to have high ph and soft water... but it is what it is ?‍

Guessing that's down to the Austin Chalk?

 

[maritzsa]

Concern yourself more with general hardness (GH) and PH will follow. Do you know the measure of hardness of your current water and that of your college's supply? You may be able to source this info from water supplier's website.
If your college has considerably harder water, the most effective method of reducing hardness is to dilute with Reverse Osmosis (RO) water. RO water can be purchased from numerous places, if the mixture turned out to be 50:50 then you'd need approx 10 gallons per month to facilitate weekly water changes.

Again, concentrate on reducing GH, potentially by mixing with RO, and this will also reduce KH and PH.

Thank you guys! The GH of the water at my school is VERY HARD at 185 ppm. I will try to do a full API master kit testing + KH and GH testing before I actually move there. I will make a post in couple months when I do a testing and post my home tap water and school tap water parameters to compare. But in short, I should make sure I have desired KH and GH and whatever pH I end up with I can slowly acclimate my fish.
Also one more question! What are your thoughts on peat moss, should I use that in the future with a harder water? Again the GH of the school water is around 180-185PPM.

 

[Colin_T]

How to make sure water changes don’t affect the pH in my tank?

Make the water up a few days before you use it. Have it in a holding tank/ container, aerate it and if necessary, adjust the pH, GH and KH so it matches the aquarium water.