🌟 Exclusive Amazon Black Friday Deals 2024 🌟

Don’t miss out on the best deals of the season! Shop now 🎁

Hello, how to make sure water changes don’t affect the pH in my tank?

I think you'll be ok with 185ppm to be honest, there are people on here with 300+ !

As Colin says, if you did want to reduce PH using peat or whatever, then you would have to pretreat for water changes. Having peat running in the tank would not immediately soften the water you introduce at water change.
 
185 ppm = 10.3 dH. That is not hard, it is middling. It's too soft for hard water fish like mollies and Rift Lake cichlids.
 
Before I respond to your question in post #14...Colin (post 15) had one suggestion for similar situations while essjay noted that 185 ppm (10 dGH) is not that hard for the fish under discussion. I concur with them. Now to peat.

Peat can be effective in some situations, but not in most. The issue is the GH and KH. Usually these are comparable, though as another member noted not always. But a high GH/KH will very effectively buffer the pH to prevent changes. If you were to add acid (via peat, leaves, or heaven forbid chemical concoctions, the acid would probably effect an immediate change but it would rapidly (usually within 24 hours, depending) bounce back. This is far worse on fish, and can kill them. The only way to safely and effectively (long-term) lower pH is to reduce the buffering capacity. That is what occurs inh my water I mentioned earlier in this thread. The basically zero GH and KH means the pH is "free" to do what it will naturally do. Adding organics like peat, wood, dried leaves will have some effect in my situation, which is how I get basically blackwater with a pH likely down around 3-4. Comparable to the Rio Negro in Amazonia, for example. But if I were to add organic matter to water with a significant GH/KH, the pH would not budge, at least up to the point at which the buffering capacity was reached, and then trouble.

The other thing about peat is that it rapidly "wears out." It would take a lot, depending, and it would need regular replacement.
 
Hey so I just measured the my KH and GH of my tank water and my home tap water and here are the results;

AQUARIUM WATER - ph 7.2-7.6 (adding peat didn't really affect my ph for the short time I had it)
  • KH = 214PPM
  • GH= 89PPM

TAP - ph 7.2-7.6 (both pHs are right in between 7.2 and 7.6 on the API kit's color chart so I am thinking 7.4 is my overall pH)

  • KH = 179 PPM
  • GH = 125 PPM

So I think the slight differences are probably caused by my decorations in the aquarium, it is heavily planted, has two real rocks that I collected and treated myself for safe use, as well as one driftwood. The gravel is eco-complete mixed with a small amount of black gravel that is apparently plant based so it won't alter pH levels. I will follow up in couple months with the water of my school. I also had an idea that I could carry about 5 gallons (even the entire 10gals or close to it. I plan on draining the water out and carrying the fish in bags for easier moving) of my aquarium water from home to school and set the fish in that water and slowly add in the new water to acclimate them perhaps over couple days instead of couple hours. What do you guys think?

Thank you for all the responses, I'll attach a picture of the aquarium below! (10 gal)
 

Attachments

  • tempImageF9zrRm.png
    tempImageF9zrRm.png
    1 MB · Views: 38
Oh and I think the 185ppm GH being VERY HARD is in the case of drinking water. I live in Maryland and my school's water is under Baltimore County and the water of the county is 185ppm GH in general, categorized as VERY HARD for human drinking water standards.
 
Water providers always make water sound harder than we, as fish keepers, consider it.

 

Most reactions

Back
Top