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Retired Viking said:
A planted or silent cycle is not a fish-less cycle. Once the tank has been planted you add the fish. You do not need the bacteria to develop because the plants absorb the ammonia so you do not have to worry about nitrate or nitrite either. You just have to make sure you have enough plants for the number of fish you are planning to have. Fast growing floating plants like anacharis, water sprite and hornwort work best.
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Sorry for all of my questions, I’ve always been a plastic plant kinda guy.

What is the recommended live plant to fish ratio? I will include below the fish that I would like to add to the tank over the next 6 months or so.

My initial idea was to get a school of Neon Tetras, see how they settle and assuming all is well, after 2 weeks getting a school of Cochu Blue Tetras.

The fish that I'd like to add to the tank are as follows (in order of adding to the tank):

6 Neon Tetras
6 Cochu Blue Tetras
6 Galaxy Rasboras (Celestial Pearl Danio)
6 Longfin Zebra Danios
2 male and 6 female Endler Guppies
1 male and 3 female Swordtails
1 Starlight Pleco/Blue Phantom Pleco
Male Betta
Red Tailed Black Shark
2 Dwarf Gouramis

I'm hopeful that adding the male Betta and Red Tailed Black Shark towards the end, that the live plants would've had chance to grow and establish the tank, with plenty of hiding places for the smaller non-territorial and enough territory for them both (as the Male Bettas territory will be at the top of the tank and the Red Tail at the bottom of the tank).
 
communityfluvalroma said:
Sorry for all of my questions, I’ve always been a plastic plant kinda guy.

What is the recommended live plant to fish ratio? I will include below the fish that I would like to add to the tank over the next 6 months or so.

My initial idea was to get a school of Neon Tetras, see how they settle and assuming all is well, after 2 weeks getting a school of Cochu Blue Tetras.

The fish that I'd like to add to the tank are as follows (in order of adding to the tank):

6 Neon Tetras
6 Cochu Blue Tetras
6 Galaxy Rasboras (Celestial Pearl Danio)
6 Longfin Zebra Danios
2 male and 6 female Endler Guppies
1 male and 3 female Swordtails
1 Starlight Pleco/Blue Phantom Pleco
Male Betta
Red Tailed Black Shark
2 Dwarf Gouramis

I'm hopeful that adding the male Betta and Red Tailed Black Shark towards the end, that the live plants would've had chance to grow and establish the tank, with plenty of hiding places for the smaller non-territorial and enough territory for them both (as the Male Bettas territory will be at the top of the tank and the Red Tail at the bottom of the tank).
Click to expand...
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that combination won't work.
  • The livebearers need hard water (GH) and most of the others need soft water. Sorry I haven't read the entire thread to see if you have mentioned your hardness
  • Bettas are not community fish and would never work in this combination
  • Red tail sharks are territorial and aggressive - they get more so as they age
  • Galaxy Rasboras will not cope with the activity levels of the other fish, especially the danios and blue tetras. These are small timid fish that feed slowly and are easily out competed for food. Any that don't starve to death will make a tasty snack for some of the other fish you mention. I keep these in a species only tank (with shrimp) and the only reason I ever see these is I have a big group (30 in my case). With 6 in a community tank you would never see them - even if they did not starve or turn into fish food.
  • Gouramis won't cope with the activity levels of the blue tetras or zebra danios
  • If you do choose gouramis try to avoid the dwarf gourami - these are known to be prone to disease, which could wipe out your tank
  • I have no personal experience of blue tetra but they can be quite nippy and aggressive. This is helped by having a larger group
Seriouslyfish.com is a good site for researching fish species and their requirements. In all cases group sizes are the minimum and larger groups are always better. Personally I would go for larger groups and fewer species.
 
seangee said:
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that combination won't work.
  • The livebearers need hard water (GH) and most of the others need soft water. Sorry I haven't read the entire thread to see if you have mentioned your hardness
  • Bettas are not community fish and would never work in this combination
  • Red tail sharks are territorial and aggressive - they get more so as they age
  • Galaxy Rasboras will not cope with the activity levels of the other fish, especially the danios and blue tetras. These are small timid fish that feed slowly and are easily out competed for food. Any that don't starve to death will make a tasty snack for some of the other fish you mention. I keep these in a species only tank (with shrimp) and the only reason I ever see these is I have a big group (30 in my case). With 6 in a community tank you would never see them - even if they did not starve or turn into fish food.
  • Gouramis won't cope with the activity levels of the blue tetras or zebra danios
  • If you do choose gouramis try to avoid the dwarf gourami - these are known to be prone to disease, which could wipe out your tank
  • I have no personal experience of blue tetra but they can be quite nippy and aggressive. This is helped by having a larger group
Seriouslyfish.com is a good site for researching fish species and their requirements. In all cases group sizes are the minimum and larger groups are always better. Personally I would go for larger groups and fewer species.
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You aren't the bearer of bad news, I appreciate your advice and knowledge.

My GH is 6.

I do have personal experience with all of the aforementioned fish.

In my opinion, Bettas absolutely can live and thrive within a community tank. I've kept a Betta within a community tank and I've seen many other success stories.

Red Tailed Black Sharks are territorial, agreed. They primarily live at the bottom of tanks. My tank is 120 cm in length and 40 cm in depth, giving the shark ample territory.

Galaxy Rasboras are fantastic fish, I've always kept them in large community tanks. They do often get out competed for food, but all I do here is first feed on one side of the tank to attract the more active feeders and then feed the other side, allowing the more "shy" fish to feed.

In my experience with Dwarf Gourami's, they have never had an issue with the activity levels of neon tetras in any of my previous tanks.
 
As far as fish choices are concern @seangee and @PheonixKingZ are correct. Betta are A type personality fish. Even if your Betta does not attack the other fish they get very stressed when other fish come into their territory or get too close while they are swimming. This stress over time will shorten their lives. Bettas are beautiful fish but I always keep them in their own tank.
 
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communityfluvalroma said:
@seangee @PheonixKingZ @Retired Viking thank you all for your input. The Betta has been removed from the list. I am going to buy a smaller Betta specific tank. Do you have any recommendations on the best tank set up and size for the Betta to really flourish and live a long life?
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I would say 5g-10. I find that bettas prefer 10g tanks.

FLUVAL makes a nice 5g or 10g. Look into those. ;)
 
Here is a much clearer/better photo of how the tank looks with the light on.

Today I ordered 2 bunches of water sprite. Thanks for the recommendations on that guys.

Delivery of my black Lava Rock and Java Moss coconut has been delayed again until Monday.

32D8789C-3B62-4C60-A450-B81460B735E0.jpeg
 
The Edge does have a concern with bettas. The water is meant to be filled so that it is in contact with the top glass, leaving only a small square of water in contact with air. Bettas need to breathe air and some have trouble finding that small square. The usual advice is to leave an air gap between the water and the top glass, but that does spoil the look of the tank.

If you really want the Edge, go for it but be aware you may need to have the water level lower than the makers intend.




Some owners complain that it is hard to clean the corners of the Edge.
 
essjay said:
The Edge does have a concern with bettas. The water is meant to be filled so that it is in contact with the top glass, leaving only a small square of water in contact with air. Bettas need to breathe air and some have trouble finding that small square. The usual advice is to leave an air gap between the water and the top glass, but that does spoil the look of the tank.

If you really want the Edge, go for it but be aware you may need to have the water level lower than the makers intend.




Some owners complain that it is hard to clean the corners of the Edge.
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Good advice...

It is still a nice tank though!

Then I would look into Aquens new series of tanks, they look nice. :good:
 
essjay said:
The Edge does have a concern with bettas. The water is meant to be filled so that it is in contact with the top glass, leaving only a small square of water in contact with air. Bettas need to breathe air and some have trouble finding that small square. The usual advice is to leave an air gap between the water and the top glass, but that does spoil the look of the tank.

If you really want the Edge, go for it but be aware you may need to have the water level lower than the makers intend.




Some owners complain that it is hard to clean the corners of the Edge.
Click to expand...
I really want a happy Betta more than a stylish tank. You make a very valid point, thank you.
 
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