Flourescent Controller Shorting Out Timer!

[karlp]

Hi

Anyone had this problem ?

I've run flourescent tubes in the past before on mechanical timers no problem.

This time I've got 4 flourescent tubes, 2 of them are additional ones with their own controllers and their own timers (supposed to simulate dusk dawn .. looks cool when it works). 30W each. I've been running them on digital timers from B&Q.

1 of these controllers is resetting the timer whenever the light is due to come on. All of the others are fine. I've now tried changing the timer for a mechanical and it seems to have shorted out the mechanical one.

The only noticeable difference with the flourescent tube is that the one causing the problem pings/flickers a bit and takes longer to come on.

Should I try...

Changing the ballast unit..
Changing the whole controller
Changing the tube...
Or buying one of those special timer things for metal hallides...

It's a new unit but I'm sure I'll be challenged when it comes to finding the receipt!

Thanks

Karl.

 

[Rooster]

Sounds like the ballast.... ALL florry tubes are more or less a short circuit when lit, the starter appears as a short whilst the tube heaters warm the gas.... as soon as the gas lights the starter should be VERY high inpedance - in fact you can remove the starter whist the tube is lit with no ill effects !

Therefore the only "active" element in the circuit is the ballast... which is only a choke to limit the startup current...
From your description, the circuit is drawing too much current.... ballast then !

 

[Ptarmigan]

.

 

[Rooster]

Therefore the only "active" element in the circuit is the ballast... which is only a choke to limit the startup current...

Dont forget the power factor correction capacitor !


Karl :
What happens if you put one of the good tubes in place of the flickering one ?

Not seen a cap in the cct for years !

 

[Ptarmigan]

.

 

[karlp]

OK, good point.

I'll try swapping over the chokes this evening and then the bulbs and see if that fixes it. I hope it's something as simple as that because I don't want to have to buy the metal hallide contact blocks or change the controller.

 

[Ste_J]

I had the same problem with a B&Q timer and it drove me nuts working it out. In the end I had tried 3 different ballasts in it and each one failed to come on at the right time due to the unit resetting it self.

I took it back and changed it in the end and not had the problem since

 

[karlp]

OK. I did some testing tonight and it's the choke that's causing the timer to reset, so I'll buying a new choke tomorrow....

You think you're nearly there and something else happens !

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Rooster]

I am an electronic god !!!

 

[karlp]

Just to update this.

Having tried replacing the timer, flourescent tube and starter, it only left the Interpet 30W lighting controller to blame. When I further examined the light fittings there were carbon deposits and burn marks around the lamp holders. I replaced this with an Arcadia unit instead which is fine.

Since this happened the other Interpet controller I had also started playing up resetting the timer, inspite of being fine for a month. There are similar charred marks on the lighting fittings for this too.

Bottom line is I've dumped both the Interpet lighting controllers and replaced them for Arcadia ones which so far are working fine. I don't think with my experience with these T8 controllers and some of the T5 Interpet controller problems others have had, that I'd touch Interpet lighting equipment with a barge pole in future.

Cheers

 

[Rooster]

I have NEVER used controllers made by "fish" companies... they always feel "cheap", goto an electrical shop.. and get commercial/domestic gear... it last forever and is a LOT cheaper