Fishless Cycling Log - Add & Wait Method

[Aqua Tom]

That looks like the beginnings of a lovely aquarium.

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

No dancing in the street tonight!


Day 32 - 12HR TEST

Tested approx 12hrs after dose

Temp 29.7c

Nitite - 0.5ppm. Going up! So repeated test 10 mins later and it was 0.25ppm

Ammonia - was not going to test but due to nitrite result i tested it. Big fat 0ppm!

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

That looks like the beginnings of a lovely aquarium.

Thanks AquaTom.
Its quite mucky on the glass now.
The gravel looks good in the pic but its all over the place.
Changed the planted photo background to rock photo and it looks loads better as i used just two out of four lights and one light has a reflector on it. The reflector is worth the money and makes a big difference.

 

[Skins]

No dancing in the street tonight!


Day 32 - 12HR TEST

Tested approx 12hrs after dose

Temp 29.7c

Nitite - 0.5ppm. Going up! So repeated test 10 mins later and it was 0.25ppm

Ammonia - was not going to test but due to nitrite result i tested it. Big fat 0ppm!

Those nitrite bacs can be a right pain in the #14###. Hang in there Barry good times are coming.

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

Thanks mate.

Tested nitrite at 14hr mark and it is 0ppm.
So its not far off.

 

[waterdrop]

Yes, so the way I think about bicarb dosing is that one teaspoon per 50L is what you would dose if you wanted to raise KH without raising pH at all, whereas 3 teaspoons per 50L might be a rather heavy dose, so two teaspoons per 50L is the starting point I usually tell people to try, but you can then modify that depending on what kind of pH change you achieved. You only dose once and then just watch those various parameters for a week or so before making more changes.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

Thanks waterdrop.
The low range pH test is stable at 7.6. The colour is harder to determine on the high range pH test.
Would it therefore be okay leave the KH buffering capacity alone at this stage unless pH drops on the low range test?
The nitrates dont appear to have got to 160ppm so does that mean there is still some capacity in terms of the nitrogen cycle before a pH crash?
The tap water is described by the company as soft and water hardness as CaC03 averages 48.5 mg/l.

My chemistry days are way behind me, so does that mean i am more likely to have a pH issue during cycling?
I dont have a GH or KH test kit at the moment.

 

[OldMan47]

The ultimate point of adding far more bicarb than will ever be needed will only raise pH to about 8.4. In terms of raising pH for a cycle, it is almost impossible to add too much. The biggest problem that would give you is getting rid of the excess once the cycle is done. When you have undissolved bicarb laying on gravel and ornaments, it becomes a cleanup mess.

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

Thanks OM47.
Would it be better to do a 50% water change then as the tap pH is about 8.4 to help boost the buffering capacity or will that be too disruptive/unpredictable outcome at this stage of the cycling?

Todays result shows pH is at least no lower than 7.6. The high range test colour is still puzzling me!
Would pH 7.0 and below be the point to take any action?


Day 33

Tested approx 23hrs after previous dose

Temp 29.7c

Ph 8.0 - high range ph was a bit lighter BUT LR PH was bang on 7.6

Ammonia 0ppm at 12 hr test

Nitite 0ppm at 14hr test

Nitrate - as yesterday but appears to be darker

Added 12.5ml ammonia for 4ppm.

 

[Skins]

Thanks OM47.
Would it be better to do a 50% water change then as the tap pH is about 8.4 to help boost the buffering capacity or will that be too disruptive/unpredictable outcome at this stage of the cycling?

Todays result shows pH is at least no lower than 7.6. The high range test colour is still puzzling me!
Would pH 7.0 and below be the point to take any action?


Day 33

Tested approx 23hrs after previous dose

Temp 29.7c

Ph 8.0 - high range ph was a bit lighter BUT LR PH was bang on 7.6

Ammonia 0ppm at 12 hr test

Nitite 0ppm at 14hr test

Nitrate - as yesterday but appears to be darker

Added 12.5ml ammonia for 4ppm.

A pH of 7.6 imo is ok Barry and when and if it gets to 7.0 or lower thats when you will need to perform a water change or add sodium bicarb. If you have the time i would perform a water change if your pH crashes because like OM47 said, it will require a big clear up towards the end of your cycle after using sodium bicarb. I'm not saying don't use bicarb but when i used it, took several heavy gravel cleans to clear it.

Keith.
P.S your tap water has the ideal pH(8.4), you could sell it to fishless cyclers,

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

My tank needs to cycle without a hitch as a FISH IN CYCLER relative has agreed to move from the dark side to fishless cycling in the future if i complete soon!

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

Day 33 - 12HR TEST

Tested approx 12hrs after dose

Temp 29.6c

Nitite - 0.25ppm
Tested again at 13hrs and almost 0ppm but still nitrite present.

Ph 7.6 on LR and 7.8 on HR
Tested tap water to check HR ph bottle. Came out between 8.3 and 8.4 so its fine.

Ammonia - not tested.

 

[Aqua Tom]

So very close now

 

[BIG BAD BARRY]

Day 34

Tested approx 24hrs after previous dose

Temp 29.8c

Ph - LR PH was bang on 7.6. HR PH looks like 8.0 in daylight ???

Ammonia not tested

Nitite not tested as almost 0 at 13hrs

Nitrate - as yesterday but appears to be darker

Added 12.5ml ammonia for 4ppm.

 

[Skins]

Day 34

Tested approx 24hrs after previous dose

Temp 29.8c

Ph - LR PH was bang on 7.6. HR PH looks like 8.0 in daylight ???

Ammonia not tested

Nitite not tested as almost 0 at 13hrs

Nitrate - as yesterday but appears to be darker

Added 12.5ml ammonia for 4ppm.