Fishless Cycle Or cycle with fish

It is always better to cycle without the fish, and if you can find the pure ammonia it goes really fast, I just did my 5 gallon quarantine tank in under 3 weeks.
But if you must cycle with fish, just put the one betta in and do frequent water changes. It is better for the cycle to take longer (because of the frequent water changes) than for you to risk the health of your fish.
Before I knew how easy cycling without fish was, I cycled a 10 gallon and a 2.5 gallon with a betta in each. I tested the water every couple of days and did water changes to keep ammonia/nitrites at healthly levels. It took 6 weeks for the 2.5, and less than that for the 10 because it was a planted tank. The planted tank also never had high spikes because of the plants.
 
I do fishless cycle, but it's a matter of choice as to whether you want to risk the life of a fish or fishes or not. If you have filter material from an established tank then fishless is the quickest way of doing it (if you actually have an established filter you can move to the tank then the tank will basically be cycled instantly, although you'd want it to run for a couple days to be sure).

Linda
 
I personally don't think you are risking a fishes life by cycling the tank with the fish in it. If you let the fish die, it's because you done it completely wrong, or was lazy and didn't keep up with the tank. I have never cycled a fishless tank. I've also never lost a fish because of it. It's not about someone being able to keep fish better. It's about doing the partial water changes. If you can't keep up with a tank trying to cycle, then you will probably think once it's cycled that it is ok and doesn't need any upkeep. Even cycled tanks need water changes. If you have no plants in the tank, then the nitrate levels will eventually be too high, and damage the fish as well. If you can do water changes on a cycled tank, then you can do it while the tank is cycling also. It's up to the person on how they cycle the tank, but saying you are risking the fishes life is not really true. You have to completely ignore your cycling tank before the fish is at risk. The only risk the fish has is whether or not you will take the responsibilitie to watch the levels and do partial water changes. If you want to cycle fishless, then the tank should be completely cycled before you even buy the fish. If not, then it is in a small container waiting on the tank to cycle, and you are doing 100% water changes anyways. If someone prefers to cycle fishless, thats up to them. To say it is the only way, and you are risking the fishes life if you do it different is not a factual statement.
 
Cycling a tank is when enough good bacteria develops in a tank to change the ammonia made from fish waste and decaying food into Nitrite. The bacteria then turns the nitrite into nitrate. Ammonia is lethal to a fish, as is nitrite. Once it turns to nitrate, it does not harm the fish unless it reaches very high levels. Plants absorb nitrates, so the levels stay low. Partial water changes keep the Nitrate level low. After a tank cycles, IMO...the best way to keep a tanks levels where they need to be is...Every 2 weeks do a partial water change.25-30%. One time I do this, I do a gravel wash, which removes excess food and waste , as well as part of the good bacteria used for cycling. In 2 weeks, I just do a partial water change, but don't wash the gravel. Instead, I change the filter. The filter has good bacteria in it as well. In 2 weeks, I do the gravel wash again. This way, every month..the filter gets changed and the bottom gets washed. By rotating it, the good bacteria keeps up with the cycle. If you do a bottom wash and change the filter at the same time, you lose too much good bacteria. I feel the biggest reason people have a hard time with cycling, is they change the water too much and too soon. Also putting too many fish in the tank too soon. The ammonia builds up too fast for the conversion to change it. By changing the water too soon, you keep removing the good bacteria that is forming. I don't remove any water until I see ammonia present by testing. Then I do a partial water change. Maybe 20%.
Normally, if the tank is large enough and the fish numbers are low, it takes about 3 weeks for it to show up. As the tank ages, the ammonia level rises faster. This is when you change more water, and more often. You can change about 25-30% each time you read ammonia present. The key is testing the water every 2-3 days. The first 3 weeks is pretty easy. It's mostly the last 3 weeks that there is some work. usually by week 5, you change 30% every couple days. By 6 weeks, it is pretty close to cycling. You will notice the water start to cloud a little, which is the final stage of the cycling. You will know when it is cycled, because the ammonia levels stop appearing. I usually do a filter change at this point, but leave the gravel alone. Then in 2 weeks, start the rotation by washing the gravel.
 

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