Based on the report above, basically less than 6 ppm of ammonia went into the than- (the original 3 ppm plus a top up of less than 3 ppm added, so about 5.5 ppm total). The maximum amount of nitrite that could be created from this is about 14 ppm and the max nitrate is around 19 ppm. So I highly doubt diluted testing is needed, But if you wish to do it then do not try to mix 1 ml and 9 ml unless you have have the sort of lab type equipment to measure such small quantities accurately or else the result you get will be meaningless. Instead use the following directions. They were written for nitrite testing but will work for any of the 3 nitrogen tests- ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Performing diluted testing may be a good idea any time any of these three kits test at their maximum level
The problem with dealing with elevated nitrite is that the typical aquarium kits do not go high enough to let us know how much nitrite may really be in any tank. And this makes fish in cycling more complex and more work than fishless. You will likely need to know how to do diluted nitrite tests. For this you need a way to create an accurate mix of your tank water and some amount of pure water, i.e. distilled or reverse osmosis/deionized (ro/di) water. You should be able to find a gallon of distilled water in the supermarket. Some fish stores sell ro/di water.
You will need a clean measuring cup as well. You will use this to mix different solutions of tank and pure water to be able to test for nitrite. You do not want to use your tap water for dilution purposes as it will often contain things that can cause test result be inaccurate.
The reason for using a measuring cup is that it is important to get the proportions of the mix as close to dead on as possible. The advantage of measuring using a cup from which you will only use a few ml is that the potential for mixing errors is way less of an issue in 8 ounces than in 5 or 10 ml of water. What you will do is start by making a 50/50 mix (4 ounces each) of tank and pure water. Then you pour 5 ml of this into the little test tube and then do the nitrite test. Multiply the result of the test by 2 to get the actual ppm in your tank.
However if this 50/50 diluted test result is still at the kit’s maximum level and the test kit reads to a maximum level of 8 ppm or less, you will have to do another dilution. The easiest way is to start with ¼ cup of tank water and ¾ cup of pure water. Test this mix and multiply the result by 4 this time. Alternatively you can use ½ cup of the initial 50/50 mix and then add ½ cup of pure water to this. The result will also be ¼ tank and ¾ pure water. If this test is also at the maximum number, don't worry about a further test, just do a huge water change (at least 50%) ASAP.
from a yet unpublished article
The reason for not needing to test beyond the 1/4-3/4 mix is due to the fact that the maximum levels on the test kits- at 4 times the maximum level it would would be unsafe for fish or bacteria. Of course you should test again after the big water change. It may turn out that a further water change in needed.
As a last comment I would observe that you are not really following the fishless cycling directions on this site. I am covering this because it is important that people actually follow the instructions to get the desired results and to avoid problems. I am not trying to pick on the OP, but I think it helps others to know where possible errors were made:
"March 23rd, I've followed the directions in adding ammonia and testing daily." But the directions do not state one should test daily, they say to test every 3 days at first. This is not a big deal except it is a waste of testing which is not free. For new fish keepers daily testing can create confusion.
"When the ammonia dropped to .5 - 1 ppm, I added enough to get back to 3 ppm." But this also is not in the directions. What they say is when ammonia is .75 ppm or lower and nitrite is 2 ppm or higher, then add the same amount (the second addition). They do not say to top up, but to add the same amount. I saw no mention of nitrite readings along the way. The phrase "top up" never appears in the article. There are full doses and a 1/3 dose in that article, nothing else.
I ran the calculation for 90% of 3 gal tank using 9.5% ammonia and got .32 ml as the proper dose for that strength of ammonia. I tell people their best bet is to add ammonia according to the calculator rather than trying to add and test. One is adding a volume of ammonia intended to produce a given ppm. The volume is what is important. This is also what makes is easy to calculate a 1/3 dose for the snack. I cannot think of any way to dose 1/3 of a ml directly without an accurate pipette. However, I would do this. I would use a cheap plant plant dosing pipette. I would put 1 ml into 3 or 6 ounces of water in that same measuring cup and then add 1 or 2 ounces from the cup to the tank. That should result in .33 ml of ammonia being added.
The test results during cycling follow a progression which reflects the cycle. For somebody trying to determine what is up in a remote tank, it requires having all the information from the start. What was added when, what were the various test results along the way? Cycling is a process which proceeds in a pretty orderly and predictable fashion. To make sense of a remote cycle means having all the information in order to deduce what may be going on. There can never be too much information only too little.
I am not bothered by the 0/0 for ammonia/nitrite as much as no nitrate. There should be some even if measured inaccurately. So here is what I suggest. Do as big a water changes as possible and dechlorthe new water. Then add .32 ml of 9.5% ammonia (or what ever amount is proper for the strength of ammonia you are using). Use dechlor but test test right away. As far as I can tell Aquasafe does not detoxify ammonia when it breaks down chloramine. But in the states the product is branded as AquaSafe Plus and it does detox ammonia. Ammonia detoxifiers can retard a cycle and also cause false ammonia readings unless you test immediately.
After you add the ammonia, wait 24 hours and test for all 3 parameters being sure to shake the nitrite stuff exactly as suggested in the API directions, do not cut short the times for shaking, going a bit longer wont hurt. Then come back and report the results. Hopefully, this will give us a good idea of where things stand.
/www.fishlore.com/fishforum/aquarium-nitrogen-cycle/19627-ammonia-instructions-fishless-cycle.html
