Fish In Cycle

LFS will almost always say what they can to get you to buy more fish, use your own judgement.

If this was mine, I would start trying to reduce water changes, aiming at once per week, without changing the feeding.

Another option would be to try increasing the feeding without changing the water changes.

The chances of a filter cycling in 14 days are close to 1/1000 or even less.
 
are we being a little bit harsh on the lfs? to their defense, they actually stopped my mate from adding fishies to her tank as her nitrate is still 0.

anyways, will reduce water changes to once a week (20% or more?) and continue with the alternate day feeding. and monitor for the next couple of weeks.

thanks for helping will keep you guys posted.
 
are we being a little bit harsh on the lfs? to their defense, they actually stopped my mate from adding fishies to her tank as her nitrate is still 0.
I don't think so.. what we say is accurate of the vast majority of LFS from our collective experience. Even so, saying "don't add fish because your nitrate is 0" is about as useful as saying "don't add fish because there are no clouds in the sky today". Tap water often contains nitrates (usually between 10 and 50ppm or so) and plants use them up. If there are nitrates in the aquarium, all that can mean is that there are nitrates in your tap water. No nitrates could mean anything at all, for example that you just did a large water change if there are low nitrates in your tap water or that you currently don't have any fish in your aquarium and you have low nitrates in your tap water or that you haven't cycled the filter or something else similar.

anyways, will reduce water changes to once a week (20% or more?) and continue with the alternate day feeding. and monitor for the next couple of weeks.
Please reduce very gradually. So for example, instead of doing a water change every other day, start doing one every third day for a week or two, then every fourth day, then every fifth and so on. I usually do under 25% per week, but it will be up to you to decide how much you may need to bring down nitrates and remove all the fish crap.
 
ok so finally getting some nitrite reading. it was 0.25 this morning and ammonia still around 0 - 0.25 while nitrate is between 40-80.
question: what do i do now? continue with 20-25% water changes every other day again? and same with feeding? how long would it roughly take for nitrite to go back to 0 again and can i avoid the spike (which i now know is harmful to fish) by doing water changes?
conclusion: lfs did lie to say that the tank is cycled. good job i didnt trust them 100%
 
ok so finally getting some nitrite reading. it was 0.25 this morning and ammonia still around 0 - 0.25 while nitrate is between 40-80.
question: what do i do now? continue with 20-25% water changes every other day again? and same with feeding? how long would it roughly take for nitrite to go back to 0 again and can i avoid the spike (which i now know is harmful to fish) by doing water changes?
conclusion: lfs did lie to say that the tank is cycled. good job i didnt trust them 100%
As you already know your ammonia and nitrite levels want to be as close to 0ppm as possible, imo i would be performing 20-25%(possibly more %)daily to keep those toxin levels below 0.25ppm. I would say you have about two weeks yet before seeing daily 0ppm of ammonia/nitrite.

Keith.
 
Same as before: enough water changes to make sure ammonia and nitrite are both well below 0.25 ppm. Just treat nitrite in exactly the same way as ammonia.

It usually takes about 2 weeks from this point until the filter is fully cycled. After that, cut down water changes to normal weekly maintenance routine and increase feeding to once per day. Then, once you have done that, leave the tank at least one week before adding more fish.
 
ok. so just like magic, this morning ammonia and nitrite both read 0. both ammonia and nitrite didnt get to more than 0.25 since day 1. should i be expecting a nitrite peak?
 
Yes, although it can take some time for nitrite to peak and it is possible that the bacteria could already be there.. just wait, test and see.
 
OK, so the thing you've got to get through your head is that there is nothing wrong with tap water. As long as you condition it (treat it with a product that removes chlorine/chloramine such as Seachem Prime, and by the way I recommend dosing the conditioner at 1.5x whatever they suggest) and roughly temperature match (by which I mean you can use your hand to match the new tap water to the current tank water they have and it can be rough but should be done with enough care that it's maybe about right on or maybe a tiny tad cooler) then you can change out practically all of it until they are almost flopping around on the gravel (not that you'd do that but to illustrate) and the fish will be happy as can be.

Too many people somehow come in to the hobby with the idea, or get the idea, that water changes are a big shock and should be minimized! That's not true at all if you understand how to do good water changing technique. Rather, water changing is your friend!

Your goal as a Fish-In cycler is to be on the lookout for the right pattern. You test twice a day, about 12 hours apart usually, generally. You don't listen to anyone telling you to change this or that percentage per day but instead tailor your percentage and frequency based on both what you are seeing from your test results and based on the convenience of when you can be home to change water.

You can change more water at less frequent intervals or less water at more frequent intervals but the whole idea is to have the ammonia(NH3) and nitrite(NO2) keep being put back close to zero ppm (or often showing zero ppm) but then to catch it again before either of them manages to spike above 0.25ppm before you can change water again. It's not a disaster if it manages to surprise you and get between 0.25 and 0.50 some day, it just makes you change your pattern again (the pattern must necessarily adjust because the spikes will get worse, then better, over the several weeks to come.) By being an observant caretaker and doing the best job possible keeping the range between zero and 0.25, you are giving the fish what they need to minimize damage to gills and nerves.

Soon the fish-in cycling weeks will be over, you will see constant zeros and you will have an appreciation of this core aspect of the hobby for the rest of your life, a valuable learning lesson.

~~waterdrop~~
 
water parameters stayed the same since ammonia and nitrite went to zero on wednesday. It's friday now and havent done any water change since tuesday. been feeding daily but still small portion.
have i cycled my tank?
what am i supposed to look out for next?
 

Attachments

  • water.JPG
    water.JPG
    24.7 KB · Views: 37
water parameters stayed the same since ammonia and nitrite went to zero on wednesday. It's friday now and havent done any water change since tuesday. been feeding daily but still small portion.
have i cycled my tank?
what am i supposed to look out for next?
Keep on, at the same rate until next Wednesday.. if nothing changes by then, your filter is probably cycled. Do a water change on Wednesday and then get into a regular maintenance pattern. Just to be on the safe side, I would wait until next weekend (26th Feb) before looking for more fish, and then add only 2-3 per week, while testing all the time.

p.s. it would help to see the card next to those tubes if you want us to actually see the readings.. also that's the same photo you showed us in the first post.
 
yeah i attached it on the first post as i didnt know how to attach the file on a reply box then later realised that i could.
also forgot to mention that the two ammonia tests, one was tap water.
i was thinking of doing some water change later today. do you think i should leave it until wednesday?
 
Hmm.. that's a tricky one.. if there is any build up of ammonia or nitrite which won't register on the tests yet, by doing a water change you could remove evidence that you are about to get a spike.. I think the fish should be ok without for a week, and there really is no other way to find out if you are cycled or not!
 

Most reactions

Back
Top