🌟 Exclusive Amazon Black Friday Deals 2024 🌟

Don’t miss out on the best deals of the season! Shop now 🎁

Fish for the upper half

Colin_T mentioned duckweed. I'll risk the over growth possibilities and add some for sure. A fish net can easily scoop out any excessive growth

I plan on having the tank fully planted for at least 2 weeks before adding any fish. Would you recommend that I use fertilizers and CO2 until I add the fish?

Fertilizers yes, but not CO2, depending.

An established tank can have sufficient natural nutrients for plants, but this depends upon the plant species and numbers, fish load, feeding, etc. I have had tanks where no fertilizer was used, but other tanks need some. If adding fertilizer, it is best to add a complete or comprehensive supplement so everything is being supplied. This can be risky if one goes about it individually, adding this and that mineral/nutrient. Plants need 17 nutrients and in rough proportion to each other. Some nutrients can be stored, but not by all plants. So excess nutrients can cause issues, not only algae but some plants may shut down assimilation of certain nutrients if there is an excess of another nutrient beyond their capacity. That is a very complex subject, but the point is that using a comprehensive supplement is the best and safest way. The nutrients must also be in balance with the light intensity, or again algae can take over. But both light and nutrients must be sufficient for the plants, and no more (or less).

I use Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium, and another near-identical product is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. I also dose a new tank to give the plants a start when natural nutrients are absent (until fish begin adding them). Long-term, some tanks get a regular weekly dose, some not, depending upon the response of the plants. We must remember that every substance added to the water in the aquarium does get inside the fish, in the bloodstream and internal organs. So keeping all additives minimal will always mean healthier fish that are not being possibly weakened by this or that.

Which brings me to the CO2. Are you planning on diffused CO2? The plants mentioned earlier do not need this. There is often sufficient natural CO2 if the tank is a low-tech or natural planted method aquarium. Most of the CO2 comes from the breakdown of organics in the substrate, and then from respiration of fish, plants and some bacteria.
 
All the plants I'm planning on would be considered low maintenance. Since, I would be adding these plants to an unestablished tank, I was just worried that they would not do well if left without fish for 2 weeks, possibly 18 days.

But, the more I think about it, I suppose the driftwood will be adding some nutrients to the water.
 
All the plants I'm planning on would be considered low maintenance. Since, I would be adding these plants to an unestablished tank, I was just worried that they would not do well if left without fish for 2 weeks, possibly 18 days.

But, the more I think about it, I suppose the driftwood will be adding some nutrients to the water.

I would get a small bottle of either product I mentioned in post #31. You use very little, but it does make a difference.
 
I will do that. Thank you very much for all your insight.
 
I will do that. Thank you very much for all your insight.

You're welcome.

The CO2 issue was not followed up, so I will assume you are not planning on adding this in some form, but it was just part of the nutrient issue. Nothing to worry about, the fertilizer will be sufficient.
 
I'll leave the HOTB filters and a couple sponge filters running. Hopefully, that will keep enough CO2 in circulation.
 
To be more specific about heating the tank. My apartment stays around 65°F. During the hottest days of summer, I doubt it raised above 67°F. I have not been here for the winter yet but, I would not doubt that it would potentially drop into the 50s.

So, if I wanted to keep the water in the mid to upper 70s, what would you kind people recommend?
 
To be more specific about heating the tank. My apartment stays around 65°F. During the hottest days of summer, I doubt it raised above 67°F. I have not been here for the winter yet but, I would not doubt that it would potentially drop into the 50s.

So, if I wanted to keep the water in the mid to upper 70s, what would you kind people recommend?

You will need a heater. Heating the room to mid-70;s is not the best option; if you have a fish room with several tanks this can sometimes be better than individual tank heaters, but when the tank is in an occupied room most people do not want it that warm when it needn't be.

Back in post #22 Colin recommended two heaters, and I agree completely. Any tank over 3 feet in length should have two heaters, one at each end next to the filter intake and return if possible (like a canister). This provides better circulation of the heated water.

I have 250w and 300w heaters. Jager (Eheim) are reliable, there are undoubtedly other reliable brands.
 
Alright, I'll go buy a pair of 300 watt heaters tomorrow
 
Would black sandblasting sand be ok to use as substrate?
 
Would black sandblasting sand be ok to use as substrate?

No, absolutely not. Any construction-type sand is sharp in order to do the job of blasting, binding, etc. Bad for substrate fish.

Play sand is the only safe industrial-type sand. By industrial-type, I mean other than true aquarium sands which should be safe as far as roughness (though some of the plant substrates are too rough). But aquarium sands are very expensive. I have play sand in all my tanks, with cories (including fry), loaches, loricariids, etc, and no issues. Depending where you live, you may find the dark grey mix by Quikrete (I get mine from Home Depot, I believe Lowe's also carries it).

If you want true black, you will have to get one of the inert aquarium sands (some will raise GH/pH). I had black once, and didn't like the look of it; under the water and tank lighting it was a dull grey, and every spec of detritus showed up, which I have never had with play sand or mixed fine gravel.
 
I was afraid blasting sand would be too coarse. I'll check home depot tomorrow for the grey sand. My local Lowes only had beige sand.

Buying black sand from pet stores is expensive and I'd probably have to buy every available bag in my county to fill 2 inches of my tank.
 
I looked around at a local landscaping yard for river rocks. When I mentioned this to my friend, he warned me that some rocks can affect the alkalinity of the tank and sent me to YouTube to find out how to test rocks for safety... Now I have a gallon of muriatic acid, lol. That's the only size Lowes sells.
 
Shopping list for Home Depot tomorrow:
-Grey playground sand, 50 lb bags X 2 (or one 50 lb bag and mix in about 20 lbs of inert black aquarium sand)
-5 gallon buckets X 2
-25 ft Garden hose
-Adjustable garden hose nozzle
-Clear pvc pipe, 3 inch diameter, 2 ft (the tank I bought came with a python siphon/fill hose but, it only has a 12 inch pipe, I don't feel like getting half my forearm wet each time I clean the substrate.)

Fingers crossed that they actually have the sand and pipe.
 
Aside from scrubbing and boiling driftwood that I find, are there any other safety precautions I need to know about using found driftwood in my aquarium?
 

Most reactions

Back
Top