Finrot

[Inchworm]

You are probably right about the temperature, but I have done it successfully several times. It seems that whenever I get a new betta it has an infection starting up.

Now that I think about it, I first learned about lowering temperatures on a betta site.

 

[GuppyDude]

my boy has some minor fin rot but iv been treating it with diluted melafix and salt. works great, he's better in days

 

[f250fisherman]

You actually want the bacteria to speed up so the meds can kill it. Lower temps is one reason for finrot. Plus, like cation mentioned, you want the immune system working at it's best to hold off other infections, which is the main reason for raising.. I raise the temps.

 

[abby'smom]

Ok, so what I got from all that;

They don't have heaters, so the constant flux in temp (warm during the day, cooler at night) is what could've helped cause the rot. I keep the temp higher and stable, and add a bit of salt and/or meds?

Sorry if I seem thick, there were so many different things said between everyone, I just put them all together.

So in the meantime, do I still up the water changes even though they are in cycled tanks?
Thanks, Erin

 

[Inchworm]

You actually want the bacteria to speed up so the meds can kill it. Lower temps is one reason for finrot. Plus, like cation mentioned, you want the immune system working at it's best to hold off other infections, which is the main reason for raising.. I raise the temps.

Hi f250fisherman

You are forgetting that you are not working with a healthy fish to begin with. Its immune system has already been compromised or it wouldn't have contracted a bacterial infection at all.

Most bacteria are common in tanks and yet the fish does not become infected until some other factor stresses them and disturbs their immune systems. A water temperature of 75 F. is within the normal range of temperatures to keep bettas and will not chill them.

Also, it's not necessary to kill the bacteria, just to get it away from the fish. Water changes and cooler temperatures, will stop/slow their reproduction and prevent reinfection. Then it is only necessary to kill the bacteria that is actually on the fish.

For this, I've been using salt baths the last few times I've run into this problem. It seemed harsh to me at first, but it does kill the bacteria on the fish fast. After each treatment I return them to a tank that has been dosed with MelaFix, which also helps by slowing their reproduction between treatments.

I think this kind of aggressive treatment is beneficial for the fish in the long run because of the speed of cure. This quickly enables the fish to resume eating if it has stopped, and a good diet is one of the best ways to begin rebuilding a weakened immune system and getting the fish back to leading a normal life.

 

[cation]

A water temperature of 75 F. Is within the normal range of temperatures to keep bettas and will not chill them.

You must have heartier fish then I do. The only betta I have who does not get ill in waters below 76-77 is a wildtype betta splendis I have. I always keep the rest of them at 78 or above.

Also, it is critical that you eliminate most of the bacteria in the water, not just the fish. Otherwise the fish will continue to be infected, because it is constantly passing infected water through its body.

I guess we're going to have to agree to disagree on this. When I first started keeping bettas, I did things similarly to what you described. I lost a lot more fish, and had major difficulty getting the sick ones better. Now that I go with warmer temps, more filtration, preventative measures, and aggressive treatment once a fish is ill, I have lost a lot less fish.

So, whatever works for you!

 

[Inchworm]

[quote name='abby'smom' date='Oct 20 2004, 01:00 PM'] They don't have heaters, so the constant flux in temp (warm during the day, cooler at night) is what could've helped cause the rot. I keep the temp higher and stable, and add a bit of salt and/or meds?

...So in the meantime, do I still up the water changes even though they are in cycled tanks?
[/quote]
Hi abby'smom

The bacteria that causes infections are always present in the water. They only cause problems when your fish is subject to conditions that stress it to the point where its immune system is compromised.

One of the things that can cause this to happen is temperature fluctuations. Other potential causes are low oxygen content in the water, overcrowding, uneaten food in the water, elevated nitrite levels, infrequent water changes, aggressive companions, etc.

It's important to keep up regular tank cleanings even though the tank is cycled. The beneficial bacteria that inhabit your tank eat the ammonia and then nitrites produced by the fish, and that is all. There are also harmful bacteria that inhabit your tank, and these and their food sources can only be removed by vacuuming the gravel and replacing the water.

Clean and fresh water and stable water temperatures go a long way toward preventing disease and keeping the fish in good overall health.

 

[abby'smom]

Ok. So what I want to do is get rid of the bacteria that is eating away at my fish's fins. I had said earlier that the rot isn't progressing rapidly right now, but it's not goin away either. I need to correct that by saying that on one of them it is progressing. He's got a hole in the middle of his anal fin along with fin tissue dissintegrating between the rays of his caudal fin. The other 2 bounce back and forth between healing and rotting.

I want to try to do what I can with meds I have on hand, as budgeting is kinda tight this month. I have aquarium salt, Melafix, Jungle fungus clear and Maracyn2.

Since this has been an ongoing problem with all 3 of them, I think I want to try the salt dips. I'm going to use a 1 gal tank for the dips, so is 1/2 tsp per gal correct?
Erin

 

[Inchworm]

Hi abby'smom

If you have already tried the Jungle fungus clear and Maracyn2, and had no success with them, the salt dips might be a good way to go.

First, I would suggest that you give your tanks a good cleaning and add MelaFix according to the label directions.

Then, to prepare a salt bath, mix 1 tsp. of salt in a cup of water from the aquarium. Dissolve the salt completely and/or remove any that remains undissolved. You will want to do this in a small container and I like to use a 1 quart plastic deli container since that will keep the fish down toward the bottom which will make it harder for him to jump (if he is inclined to do that.) Add the fish and let him remain in the solution for 10 or 15 minutes. Then return him to the tank. Do this up to 4 or 5 times a day if necessary. If the fish goes unconscious and rolls over, end the treatment right away. He will revive as soon as he gets back in his regular tank. This is normal and you need not worry if it happens.

You should see improvement quickly, perhaps after the first few treatments. What is happening is that the salt is eating away at the bacteria and killing it, and when you put the fish in the water that has been treated with MelaFix, that mild anti bacterial agent will slow it's reproduction and help heal the damage the bacteria has caused.

I would not reuse the salt solution, but would prepare a new one for each treatment.

Good luck and I hope your fish get well soon. Please let me know how this works for you.

 

[tekknocolor]

My betta had advanced fin rot. I tried giving him the salt bath, then the bettafix and then lastly had to resort to Maracyn2. The infection did not stop after 1 treatment of Maracyn2. I treated him again with Maracyn2 and did not see immediate results until near the end of the second cycle. Once the second cycle was complete and water change was completed, I added more aquarium salt and he is completely fin rot free. I cannot say this will work for all bettas, but it's always worth a try. (If I recall correctly, the meds should say that it is safe to continue another cycle if the first does not seem to be affective.)

 

[Inchworm]

Hi tekknocolor

Did you use repeated treatments in concentrated salt baths that I described, or did you just add salt to your tank?

 

[abby'smom]

Thanks, Inchworm!
I just finished doing the first dips for all 3. They made it about 5 minutes before they stopped moving. They didn't roll over, but I'd kinda poke them, and they didn't respond so I took them out.
Looked quite ticked off about the whole thing once they were back in their tanks!How long should I keep doing this? About a week or more?
Erin

 

[Inchworm]

Hi abby'smom

I'm glad to hear that their first treatments went well. Five minutes isn't bad for starters. You will probably be able to increase it after a few more treatments as they begin to heal.

As you do more treatments you will begin to see less dead looking skin and fins. Once they stop deteriorating completely, they will be able to heal and grow back. Use your judgment, but continue them until this point. Some strains of bacteria will spring back if they are not completely gone, so better be on the safe side, even if you cut back to one treatment a day toward the end.

A week should be plenty unless they are in horrible condition, and you can expect to see some improvement after just a few treatments.

Thanks for keeping me up on their progress.

 

[abby'smom]

I bought the salt for this purpose, but then read how bettas don't tolerate salt, yadda yadda... So it scared me off. I'm glad I tried it. I can already see a smoother edge to their fins. Not as much dead, crumply looking stuff! B)
Erin

 

[wuvmybetta]

uhhhmm...
I'm glad he/they seems to be doing better,that's great news. I would advise that you be very,very careful when using the recommended procedure. I'm not trying to confuse you any further but 75 is pretty chilly. It's only 7 degrees away from hypothermia in a betta So make sure the water is very close in temperature when returning him to the tank.
I also wouldn't keep him in the salt solution anywhere near as long as it would take to make him pass out. I've honestly never seen a betta ever,ever roll over and pass out and that just doesn't sound good

Keep us posted!!