I have been feeding bloodworms as this is all they will eat right now. And yes I started putting garlic guard in the food. It will be one week tomorrow that I have had this guy and he stopped eating on thursday (so 2 days ago). I do have one fish that appears to be more dominant than the rest but I haven't seen it go near this one that is not eating (which by the way is a blue diamond)
Discus
- Thread starter Sheilaf
- Start date
Well, keep us posted on the situation. I have had two small Discus to this to me. They stopped eating one day, and after a while of failed treatment they died. No other fish got this but my two juveniles (also from Hong Kong.)
Keep us posted on the situation,
DL
Keep us posted on the situation,
DL
rabbut
I don't bite, all that often...
If he is loosing colour, I'd get him out into a QT tank. Sounds like he may be heading into a bad way 
I've never been able to get them to come round after they loose colour, and all treatements I've tryed have failed. Something is seriously upsetting him, and it could be something in the main tank... Once he is out you can keep an eye on him. I'd get him into QT, add some bloodworm and leave him in peace untill the morning. Count the bloodworm in, and use an air driven filter for keeping the water good. This will reduce the flow while keeping it filtered well, so the discus should be more relaxed. Check that some isn't gone in the morning, and any that does remain should be removed. He may be eating, but your not seeing it while in the room. If it's all there we'll discuss available treatements 
Hoepfuly some will be gone, as this will indicate that he is eating.
All the best
Rabbut
P.S. remember to move some mature media accross into the QT tank filter, so it is cycled
I've never been able to get them to come round after they loose colour, and all treatements I've tryed have failed. Something is seriously upsetting him, and it could be something in the main tank... Once he is out you can keep an eye on him. I'd get him into QT, add some bloodworm and leave him in peace untill the morning. Count the bloodworm in, and use an air driven filter for keeping the water good. This will reduce the flow while keeping it filtered well, so the discus should be more relaxed. Check that some isn't gone in the morning, and any that does remain should be removed. He may be eating, but your not seeing it while in the room. If it's all there we'll discuss available treatements Hoepfuly some will be gone, as this will indicate that he is eating.All the best
Rabbut
P.S. remember to move some mature media accross into the QT tank filter, so it is cycled
I don't have any air driven sponges to use as a filter. All I have for my 20g is an aquaclear50 so I hope that will work ok. I will try to get the tank set up and ready to go this aft. and hopefully move him this evening but I'm going to be going out for supper tonight so I'll have to see how it goes. Do I slowly acclimate him to the new tank? And do I leave it bare with no decor?
rabbut
I don't bite, all that often...
Sorry I'm late replying. Fill the tank with water from the main, and get some mature media into whatever filter you are going to use. Ensure there is no carbon or zeolite in the filter, as you may need to use meds here. Try to get the flow down, and add some food to the bottom of the tank. Make a mental note of how much is there, and leave your fish in peice with dim lighting for an hour or two. If the food is gone, or some is eaten, leave him in QT without treatment for a week to regain his streangth before adding back to the main tank
If he doesn't eat, you need to get some Flubendazole or Metrodanizole baced wormer in there. You could try Kisuri wormer plus, but it is unlikely that it will work. Give it a couple of days with this in the system, and feed daily as before, noteing the food that is there and removing it if it isn't eaten. If he still isn't eating after a few days, you will need to force feed. This is very stressful for the fish, and you should only do it as a last resort
If he doesn't eat after the move, get into stock a small seringe and some puppy worming syrup. You will need these if you force feed. The worming solution desolved into the QT tank is unlikely to work, so if it is needed I'd prepair for something that you are likely going to need to do later. Post back 48 hours after the worming med bath if he still isn't eating, and I'll talk you through the force feed procedure. I hope for your sake I won't need to though
All the best of luck
Rabbut
If he doesn't eat, you need to get some Flubendazole or Metrodanizole baced wormer in there. You could try Kisuri wormer plus, but it is unlikely that it will work. Give it a couple of days with this in the system, and feed daily as before, noteing the food that is there and removing it if it isn't eaten. If he still isn't eating after a few days, you will need to force feed. This is very stressful for the fish, and you should only do it as a last resort
If he doesn't eat after the move, get into stock a small seringe and some puppy worming syrup. You will need these if you force feed. The worming solution desolved into the QT tank is unlikely to work, so if it is needed I'd prepair for something that you are likely going to need to do later. Post back 48 hours after the worming med bath if he still isn't eating, and I'll talk you through the force feed procedure. I hope for your sake I won't need to though
All the best of luck
Rabbut
Wow, bad day for fishkeeping in my house. Came home from being out to dinner and one of my male bettas had by passed the divider and was getting his butt kicked by the male on the other side!
I was however able to contact the discus expert in my area and he suggested trying to raise the temp up to 90 and has great success with this and fish that don't eat. So I'm going to give that a try first. He said if that fails then move him to the 20g and treat with metronidazole (pure) which luckily I have easy access to as I work at a vet clinic.
If I have to move him into the 20g I can get the flow down and I have an extra filter running on one of my tanks for this purpose. I don't use carbon or zeolite in any of my tanks.
As for force feeding (and I hope it doesn't come to that) I think I could hopefully handle that. I've done it in cats, dogs, and calves but never fish.
I do have one last question. My original plan was to do a barebottom tank and was kinda talked into doing planted. Not only am I a discus newbie, I'm a plant newbie and now I'm wondering if I should have done the tank without substrate. All the other fish seem fine, but could this be the source of my problems? It would be a huge pain to remove the plants/sand now but if it is a good idea I will do it. Let me know. I'd have to move the discus and the cardinals to another tank temporarily but I could do it, and then just have some anubias and java fern tied to driftwood and maybe some water sprite on top.
I really appreciate the help, thanks so much and I will keep you posted.
I was however able to contact the discus expert in my area and he suggested trying to raise the temp up to 90 and has great success with this and fish that don't eat. So I'm going to give that a try first. He said if that fails then move him to the 20g and treat with metronidazole (pure) which luckily I have easy access to as I work at a vet clinic.
If I have to move him into the 20g I can get the flow down and I have an extra filter running on one of my tanks for this purpose. I don't use carbon or zeolite in any of my tanks.
As for force feeding (and I hope it doesn't come to that) I think I could hopefully handle that. I've done it in cats, dogs, and calves but never fish.
I do have one last question. My original plan was to do a barebottom tank and was kinda talked into doing planted. Not only am I a discus newbie, I'm a plant newbie and now I'm wondering if I should have done the tank without substrate. All the other fish seem fine, but could this be the source of my problems? It would be a huge pain to remove the plants/sand now but if it is a good idea I will do it. Let me know. I'd have to move the discus and the cardinals to another tank temporarily but I could do it, and then just have some anubias and java fern tied to driftwood and maybe some water sprite on top.
I really appreciate the help, thanks so much and I will keep you posted.
Metrodiazole has a good kill spectrum. Sprinkle it into his food once he starts eating. I believe you can use 250-500 mg per day, but may have to double check on that. Other medications to consider and treat with Metro are Flubendazole, Praziquantal and Kanamycin works wonders I have heard (hard to get in my neck of the woods.) You can also use de-wormer for dogs and cats.
To be honest, Hong Kong is probably the root of your problems... I hate to break it to you but a lot of times these mass fish producers don't take extreme care of their fish and Discus are very sensitive. Sometimes stuff like this will happen, and you will get a bad fish...
The substrate probably isn't causing problems for now. It is hard to clean, much harder then a bare bottom tank, and this can negatively impact water quality. Juvy Discus need extremely clean water. It is recommended to do a daily water change for Juvy Discus. Sometimes breeders will do multiple water changes daily or use a drip system (slowly feeds and takes out water over the day.) Feeding needs to be varied with at least 3 times per day (4-6 being best.)
If these standards aren't met, it can cause the Discus to get stunted (improper growth) that is accompanied by a shorter life and many health problems...
To be honest, Hong Kong is probably the root of your problems... I hate to break it to you but a lot of times these mass fish producers don't take extreme care of their fish and Discus are very sensitive. Sometimes stuff like this will happen, and you will get a bad fish...
The substrate probably isn't causing problems for now. It is hard to clean, much harder then a bare bottom tank, and this can negatively impact water quality. Juvy Discus need extremely clean water. It is recommended to do a daily water change for Juvy Discus. Sometimes breeders will do multiple water changes daily or use a drip system (slowly feeds and takes out water over the day.) Feeding needs to be varied with at least 3 times per day (4-6 being best.)
If these standards aren't met, it can cause the Discus to get stunted (improper growth) that is accompanied by a shorter life and many health problems...
Well the other 5 are all doing well so I really didn't think the sand had a lot to do with this problem. Also after talking to other discus keepers on my local forum, others have had very similar problems with blue diamonds. I don't know if it is the variety or what. One of my golden phoenixes hides a lot but that's becuase it is getting picked on by the other one but it is still eating.
I can remove the sand if I have too, I personally don't like bare bottom tanks and I find it makes fish skittish, but if it will help I can do it.
I also recieved a message from the lfs I got these fish from. I had informed him (the owner) of the problem I was having with this one fish and that the others were doing really well. He got back to me tonight and said that if I wanted to I could bring back the one I'm having trouble with and switch it for another one. I'm thinking this might be a good idea, what do you think?
I can remove the sand if I have too, I personally don't like bare bottom tanks and I find it makes fish skittish, but if it will help I can do it.
I also recieved a message from the lfs I got these fish from. I had informed him (the owner) of the problem I was having with this one fish and that the others were doing really well. He got back to me tonight and said that if I wanted to I could bring back the one I'm having trouble with and switch it for another one. I'm thinking this might be a good idea, what do you think?
I would take up the offer, but be extremely cautious with the new fish you are picking out. Make sure it is thick, active and eating vigorously. Examine them for a good half hour and see who is at the top of the pecking order. Take him.
Btw just read through Rabbut's post and don't think we need to force feed quite yet. Some Discus go for even a month without eating (especially wild caught that won't accept frozen foods.)
This Discus could easily go a week without food. I have been told before that it is bad to force feed. There is a reason he isn't eating, so instead of making him eat, it is better to fix the problem.
Ok, so I beleive I'll be bringing him back (this is one of the reasons I like this store so much, he is a really great guy to deal with). But I have another question that I've been getting mixed answers to. I was thinking when I get the new guy it will be hard on him to be added to the group as the "new guy" and was thinking that if I get 2 new ones it will help spread out and agression to the new guys. That would put me at 7 discus. I don't know if that's too many or not and would like your opinions. I have one that is for sure at the top of the pecking order and a bit pushy so I don't know if having more fish would help or not.
Thanks
Thanks
angelmouse
Fish Herder
i wouldn't get anymore Discus as overstocking can also cause problems, just exchange the ill one and if you have problems move the decor in tank around a little this can be enough to disorentate the bullys for a little.
try offering brine shrimp they find this hard to resist
good luck regards Angel
try offering brine shrimp they find this hard to resist
good luck regards Angel
rabbut
I don't bite, all that often...
I would follow Angels advise to the letter The issue you have with any parasitic infection of the gut, that may be the issue here, is that baths occasionaly don't work. Medicated food is IME the most effective way of ridding the problem, but if they aren't eating... I agree that it is too early to force feed yet, I'm just advising that it may be an idea to be prepaired to do it if nesissary.
Swaping the struggling fish as the owner has offered to allow you to do is the best cource of action
That is one excelent shop you have found, if he is prepaired to take back in ill fish
All the best
Rabbut
The issue you have with any parasitic infection of the gut, that may be the issue here, is that baths occasionaly don't work. Medicated food is IME the most effective way of ridding the problem, but if they aren't eating... I agree that it is too early to force feed yet, I'm just advising that it may be an idea to be prepaired to do it if nesissary.Swaping the struggling fish as the owner has offered to allow you to do is the best cource of action
That is one excelent shop you have found, if he is prepaired to take back in ill fish All the best
Rabbut
Thanks guys, I think I will stick to the 6, it's probably the smart thing to do. Now I do have a question about the new one I'll be getting and whether to QT or not. I can as I have an empty 20g but this guy will be coming from the same place (same store, same tank, and same supplier) as the ones I already have and it, like the ones I have will have already been dewormed. Do a Qt it? It seems like that would be a bit stressful for the little guy.
And I haven't tried brine shrimp but I have mixed mysis shrimp in with the bloodworms and I think they've eaten a bit of that. I'd really like to get them onto some sort of pellet as well becuase I don't think bloodworms alone is enough nutrtion wise.
And yes, this is an excellent store and I'm extremely happy that I have a place like this to go to.
And I haven't tried brine shrimp but I have mixed mysis shrimp in with the bloodworms and I think they've eaten a bit of that. I'd really like to get them onto some sort of pellet as well becuase I don't think bloodworms alone is enough nutrtion wise.
And yes, this is an excellent store and I'm extremely happy that I have a place like this to go to.
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