Diagnostic Help

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If I am not mistaken, camallanus worms, nemotodes have to or may go through an intermediate host. I believe it is a crustacean but I am not sure about a direct route from eggs to fish.
 
If I am not mistaken, camallanus worms, nemotodes have to or may go through an intermediate host. I believe it is a crustacean but I am not sure about a direct route from eggs to fish.

You are right... But not all of them.

Another fact often left aside is that There are many species of Camallanus worms, including Camallanus cotti, Camallanus lacustris, and Camallanus anabantis.

And they have different transmission mechanism.
 
Here is a link to some excellent info re camallanus and their treatment. Dr. Harrison wrote,

Treatment for Camallanus
by Charles H Harrison

The first time I saw this parasite was in a Convict chichlid back in 1970. It was a stranger to us then but since that time, I have lost several fish to this parasite. The following article has been written for the Killifish enthusiast, but it certainly applies to all the Tropical Fish Hobby......
From https://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamallanusTreatment/

The above was the opening of the original paper he wrote . There is much more up to date info at the above lik and he offers links as well as selling Levamisole HLC. I get that and Flubendazole from him. https://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html
 
I use a python to perform water exchange on the infected tank but also on my 60 gallon and 29 gallon tank. I imagine it is possible I transferred worm eggs to these tanks. Should I prophylactically treat those tanks? At the moment there is no sign of infection.
 
They spread very easily. And if they show after a long period, they could be in the other tanks for a long time.

Dr Harrison saved a lot of my fish, as he was the first person I saw online who took this parasite seriously and made products to save fish from it available. He's a good guy. I used to buy my meds from him.

I'm assuming what we see in tanks is the Camallanus species that goes from eggs to fish. The patterns I've seen suggest that. The only host I could see in my tanks would be pest snails and hydra, and I have had fish infested that didn't eat them. I was sent a bag of livebearers from a trusted source, and within a couple weeks of arrival, saw they were rotten with them. Careless QT allowed them to spread, and they got into a couple of adjoining tanks. Back then, Dr Harrison sent the only solution available, and while I lost the original fish, the second wave ones were saved.

I think since I first saw the parasite in the early 1990s, they have hit here maybe four times with newly arriving fish. They're going to party with people having to buy fish sight unseen online, as trips through various pet stores have let me see a lot of fish affected. If I bought bread and butter fish online and couldn't quarantine, I would treat automatically.

I like to use the meds in a paste food, and to siphon a lot for eggs and corpses. Fenben isn't very water soluble.
 
I use a python to perform water exchange on the infected tank but also on my 60 gallon and 29 gallon tank. I imagine it is possible I transferred worm eggs to these tanks. Should I prophylactically treat those tanks? At the moment there is no sign of infection.

I would refrain to use anything that been used in the infected tank on other for all the time of the treatment.

I would also soak everything in 1 for 9 bleach solution for 30 minutes before touching another tank with it.

Python are notorious for cross contamination.
 
They spread very easily. And if they show after a long period, they could be in the other tanks for a long time.

Dr Harrison saved a lot of my fish, as he was the first person I saw online who took this parasite seriously and made products to save fish from it available. He's a good guy. I used to buy my meds from him.

I'm assuming what we see in tanks is the Camallanus species that goes from eggs to fish. The patterns I've seen suggest that. The only host I could see in my tanks would be pest snails and hydra, and I have had fish infested that didn't eat them. I was sent a bag of livebearers from a trusted source, and within a couple weeks of arrival, saw they were rotten with them. Careless QT allowed them to spread, and they got into a couple of adjoining tanks. Back then, Dr Harrison sent the only solution available, and while I lost the original fish, the second wave ones were saved.

I think since I first saw the parasite in the early 1990s, they have hit here maybe four times with newly arriving fish. They're going to party with people having to buy fish sight unseen online, as trips through various pet stores have let me see a lot of fish affected. If I bought bread and butter fish online and couldn't quarantine, I would treat automatically.

I like to use the meds in a paste food, and to siphon a lot for eggs and corpses. Fenben isn't very water soluble.

Would you recommend to treat all the tanks as a preventive way to make sure eradication is complete ?
 
I would also soak everything in 1 for 9 bleach solution for 30 minutes before touching another tank with it.

Python are notorious for cross contamination.
I have been using a 5 gallon bucket filled with disinfecting bleach/water solution and first running my Python sucking the contents of that bucket before I use it on another tank. I have been concerned about cross-contamination between tanks as well.
 
A soak time of at least 30 minutes, and up to an hour, in a 1 for 9 bleach solution is recommended for disinfecting aquarium equipment contaminated with Camallanus worms or their eggs.

Eggs are particularly resilient and require a good exposure to penetrate the shells.
 
Reading this thread makes me not want to buy fish from pet shops anymore . The quarantine of new fish maybe ought to be longer and also with a precautionary drug treatment .
I bought this a. cacatuoides aka Mohawk Man along with a female by mail order from Aqua Huna. Now I’m not 100% certain this is camallanus. The thread coming from his butt was a little thick for camallanus and its color was not full red but a brownish red.
 

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