Dawn On The Reef

I like that walk through Big C; you will now be know as the Big shrimp master :lol: .

May I confess to my acclimatisation process which appears from the above to be very different from most of the forum. I acclimatise for temperature only, a 15 minutes period sitting in the bag and then release to the tank. My reason for this is that I study the fish very hard in the shop looking for signs that they may be weak or infectious. This may require two even three visits before I buy. Once I am happy then I purchase the fish and in the tank for the brief temperature equilibriation before release. I did previously when starting out in marines and also with freshwater acclimatise for water as well over an hour or so, but noticed that the dead rate and length of adjustment to the new tank was much much longer if I did the prolonged acclimatisation procedure. Anyone who knows about dwarf puffers will appreciate the difficulties these little guys can pose the aquarist and frequently when something goes wrong it ends in death. I have kept them for the past two years and noticed that in the acute phase stress from being in the bag was much more detrimental than the stress of changing water conditions (provided you are running a tight ship with regards your tanks water quality!!). The little puffers die very easily many times while still in the damn bag. I can't stand seeing fish die especially when their health is my responsibility. I have also seen Glow light tetra, cardinal tetra and bristlenose plecs all have trouble because of the time they were in the bag. The pattern is when they are placed on the surface of the tank water, they struggle furiously to get free and over these long times for acclimatisation succumb to their own effort; exhaustion is the mode of death. So I started acclimatising for temperature and then realeasing which has decreased my death rate (I have had no deaths from any marine fish, :crazy: touch wood ) and the time to adjust to the new tank. I measure adjust by feeding and activity in the tank, for incidence one of my biggest successes was my recently acquired flasher wrasse. Now he demonstrated the above pattern of struggling in the bag so I made the conscious decision to release after approximately 5 minutes. He found himself a place to hide out and within the hour was happy to swim freely and even tuck into some brine shrimp!!
I know that drip method is an easy solution for advanced and beginners alike to follow and mostly ends in success but I have found a method that works for me because: A) I keep pristine water conditions B) have the ability to spot health fish and C) match the needs and compatibility of all my livestock (this prevents bullying; another lesson learn from the dwarf puffers :good: ).

Anyway, keep up this brilliant journal O great big shrimp master

Regards
 
Shrimp Master indeed :lol:
On the acclimatisation front CF, what ever works best for the individual then go with that. Theres no hard fast rules, the livestocks interest must remain paramount which ever method you choose though
Regards
BigC
 
Ugrade!...Upgrade!
Look what just turned up at our Local Reef Club (Tues evening)

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Unfortunately I'm off work for a week (Easter Hols) so the hole drilling will have to wait. But at least they're in my posession now :)
Collecting more Silicone as we speak.
ATB
BigC
 
Woo hoo and we are off.......................
:lol: More of a trot than a gallop Seff

Anyway I was sitting around trying to improve on the Nano whilst keeping an open mind when it comes to future purchases and the larger upgrade. I was in need of a dedicated Phosphate reactor for a while and this Phosban 150 Reactor fitted the bill perfectly. I can quite easily add another one alongside it (connecting the two together) when the big tank is ready.
tlfphosban.gif


The Reef club has made a bulk purchase of Ultiphos (cheaper than Rowa) and I plan to trial this in the reactor and see how it stacks up against the more expensive brand.
Regards
C
 
If it is Ultiphos P Big C chuck it in the bin, it is good at removing phosphate but does leach Aluminium Oxide into the water. Whilst using this my Pachyclavularia refused to open.

Since changing to Rowaphos it is blooming.
 
it is good at removing phosphate but does leach Aluminium Oxide into the water.
This is a bit confusing as it is not made with alluminium.
re: Sales Pitch
They are not made from aluminium and they do not release metals into the aquarium.
[URL="http://www.uda.co.uk/ultiphos.htm"]http://www.uda.co.uk/ultiphos.htm[/URL]
As I said earlier I will trial this, perhaps alongside Rowa and see which is proper value for money.
I am getting the Ultiphos for £15 a kilo. The lads are getting it for around £68 for 5kgs delivered
Its a winner on price at the first hurdle but the proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say. (and No I wont be eating it :p )
ATB
C
 
I know, it says on the carton its iron based.

I bought it from UDA as I thought I would save money.

The only reason I could find for it not opening was the aluminium. Read it in THE BOOK, that was why I tried removing it. Within an hour the polyps had started to open.
 
I have the same problem with Xenia and HR Carbon :)
I will try the Ultiphos and see, no harm in trying at that price.
Regards
C
 
My Phosban 150 Phosphate Reactor arrived this morning. I'm looking forward to installing this new piece of kit.

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Off to get some Rowa.

Look at the size of this teenie weenie pump, capable of knocking out 440l/h
Its perfect for my micro sump.

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Stream 420

Nows all thats needed is a Cabinet Re-shuffle (to accomodate the new apparatus) :lol:

Regards
seahorse1-1-1.png
 
Think il end up going with one of these too. Unless i can make a decent one. Be no room in my sump soon :lol:
How are you getting on with the SPS?
 

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