Cycling With Or Without Plants - Debating The Merits Of Each

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Just a note to say i have not forgotten daize's Qs and a reply. I have been working on it and have it (including quoting her Qs) down to 12 pages and about 5,800 words. I am trying to shorten it a bit more.
 
I would like to ask daize a Q though. In that tank you tried to dose ammonia in to finish cycling it and which you said killed one of the plants, you did not mention algae. Did you have a nasty algae outbreak?
 
I am struggling with algae in that tank, yes. A serious outbreak of diatoms that seemed to begin around the time I started adding ammonia to it. I didn't mention it because I can't confirm whether it was caused by the ammonia. My other tank also had terrible diatoms which took many months to completely disappear and it was fishless cycled in the dark, so perhaps I am just doomed to suffer diatoms with every new tank :dunno:

The diatoms didn't kill any plants though.  It was algae-free when it melted.
 
Diatoms are not caused by ammonia and are nor really algae. So your answer is no. But that would seem to fly in the face of those who claim dosing ammonia into a tank with plants to cycle it would cause outbreaks. I mean you sid you dosed for 3 weeks to 3 ppm. Like I posted before, a lower ammonia level would have been fine in your case and might not have been an issue with that plant.
 
Have a read here re diatoms http://www.aquascapingworld.com/algaepedia/full_view_algae.php?item_id=79
 
TwoTankAmin said:
Diatoms are not caused by ammonia and are nor really algae. So your answer is no.
Huh? I know you are probably just referring to the info in the link you provided, but diatoms are indeed a type of algae. I will provide references confirming this if you really want. So the answer was technically yes.
 
Note that the link you provide also says that "excess nitrates" cause diatoms, which as we all know nowadays has been proven not to be the case, and the end of the articles even says "aquarium equipment called Diatom filters which also help remove diatoms from your aquarium"...the author doesn't seem familiar with his subject matter, given that this is not what diatom filters are used for, and use of a diatom filter will do nothing to clear an diatom bloom. It's merely called a diatom filter because it uses diatomaceous earth as the filter media.
 
But that would seem to fly in the face of those who claim dosing ammonia into a tank with plants to cycle it would cause outbreaks. I mean you sid you dosed for 3 weeks to 3 ppm. Like I posted before, a lower ammonia level would have been fine in your case and might not have been an issue with that plant.
 
Even if you were correct, and diatoms weren't a type of algae, what exactly would "fly in the face" of those who see some correlation between ammonia and diatom outbreaks in planted tanks?  One tank that only had limited diatom troubles? That hardly "flies in the face" of anyone's argument  given all the variables involved and aforementioned in this thread. 
 
Lower ammonia levels may have been fine for DaizeUK, however, this is not part of your cycling article or original argument. Your correct in saying "might" not have been an issue with that plant, likewise lower levels "might" still have been an issue. Who knows what levels of NH3 are acceptable for given a species assemblage of aquarium plants in the unstable conditions of a newly set up planted tank? Why take the gamble of guessing what concentration is acceptable? 
 
 Here's a popular and more modern link about common algae "causes", for diatoms James's Planted Tank says:
 
"Usually found in newly setup tanks due to silicates and ammonia as the filter and substrate have yet to mature."
 
Now, of course there are almost limitless other scenarios that could trigger a diatom bloom, and it would be possible to have nearly no diatoms in what may seem like perfect conditions.
 
Variables.
 
I stand corrected. Diatoms are a form of algae. I never think of them as such due to their need for silicates. I have not had to deal with them very often and I always found increasing light was an effective way to handle them. I am not sure there can be a diatom bloom in the absence of sufficient silicates in the water.
 
As for what a diatom filter is for. It is used to remove the smallest of solid wastes from a tank. They are able to remove extremely fine particles. This can help make crystal clear water. The downside of such filters is that they will clog fairly fast due to their superior ability to remove fine particulate matter. To that extent it will remove any form of algae in the water, including diatoms. It will not rmove things from the surface in a tank, only what goes through it. It is possible to add DE to filters using micron cartridges and make them filter out even finer sized particles.
 
I hate Wiki but for this it is accurate I believe
 
 
Diatom filters are used only for sporadic cleaning of tanks, they are not continuously operated on aquariums. These filters utilise diatomaceous earth to create an extremely fine filter down to 1 µm which removes particulate matter from the water column.
from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_%28aquarium%29
 
Finally, as far as I can tell macrophytes and diatoms are inhibited/killed by the similar levels of NH3. Have a quick read here as it is not overly long nor complex. http://www.wca-environment.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/wca_SETAC2011_assessing-effects-of-ammonia-on-aquatic-communities_TU380_May-2011_A0.pdf
 
From the above link you will read:
 
The fact that both diatoms and macrophytes showed a significant decline in response to total ammonia may indicate the response of these elements to nutrient enrichment
 
I think SeaChem makes a decent test kit for silicates if folks are curious and want to test their water for them.
 
There are some places where this site messes up the formatting. I can't fix it, I tried. But the words etc. are all there its occasional font changes or text sizes that get messed up.
 
 
[SIZE=12pt]I would like to address some questions to TwoTankAmin regarding his post #40, where he neatly summarized his evidence and arguments.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]TwoTankAmin, on 20 Dec 2013 - 12:47 PM, said:[/SIZE]
 
I have tried to explain and illustrate why AOB and AOA strains at work in aquariums are ones with the lowest affinity for ammonia. On the other hand I presented evidence from Tom Barr that when the total ammonia concentration is low, i.e .5 ppm the plant stopped taking up ammonia. At .5 ppm the AOB and AOA in aquaria are able to feed just fine. They can maintain healthy colonies. They can remove this level of ammonia which the plants are not uptaking.
 
[SIZE=12pt]As an aside, the evidence is not from Tom Barr's personal research as he was apparently quoting an excerpt from Diana Walstad's book Ecology of the Planted Aquarium.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]You are correct to a certain extent. He was commenting on the chart presented by her and observing that below .5 ppm uptake rates drop. I believe he confirmed independently that as ammonium levels drop lower, plants do not uptake it as rapidly. This implies that if NH4 is taken up less rapidly, there must be some more NH3 available to the bacteria either in terms of time, amount or a combination of both.

In the scenario which you are advocating, of planting a tank and then adding ammonia to establish a bacterial colony, your recommendations for fishless cycling would have us adding ammonia at concentrations of 3ppm - much higher than the minimum 0.5ppm threshold indicated by Walstad for Elodea species. Thus if ammonia is added to a planted tank at these concentrations we are ensuring that the plants are competing with bacteria for ammonia and thus inhibiting bacterial population growth.
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[SIZE=12pt]That would be the case if it were a blanket recommendation. As I have stated, and will clarify, there are differences when cycling with plants. In many beginner cases you could do it very much like the regular non-planted cycling. But the method with plants is not universal.  The basic concept behind cycling with plants is to insure a tank can handle a full load of fish (or the load the fish keeper intends to add). When the plants can only process a portion, bacteria are needed for the rest. To get bacteria to reproduce there must be more ammonia in the tank for them to get and it must be more than they need for maintenance. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]On the other hand, Three-fingers recommends that the bacterial colony should be built up first and then plants added afterwards. At this point your evidence shows us that the plants and bacteria will not be in competition for ammonia since the plants do not uptake ammonia at concentrations of less than 0.5ppm, which is what you would expect to find in any cycled aquarium.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]That would again not be quite accurate. In a cycled tank, be it all done by bacteria or, partly or mostly, by plants, there will be both NH4 and NH3. To deprive either the plants or the bacteria of what they can use, you must have 100% of one or the other (NH4 or NH3 but not both). That simply never happens at normal tank pH levels, and some of the AOB can even uptake NH4 when forced to by very acid waters. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]In three’s method it is 100% certain the plants, when added, will out “compete” the bacteria for the portion of total ammonia they can. What the plants will do is “compete” the bacteria back down to a colony size appropriate for dealing with the available NH3 in the environment, i.e. their niche. We know the bacteria cannot uptake NH3 faster than plants can uptake NH4. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]I may be missing a huge trick here, but your evidence seems to indicate that Three-fingers' method will result in reduced competition between plants and bacteria and thus have a greater chance of establishing a strong nitrifying colony.
 
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[SIZE=12pt]Yes you are missing it. The bacterial colony in any tank can only ultimately be sized to what the NH3 levels permit. It will only end up as large as it needs to be for any given NH3 level. If you cycle a tank with no plants with 1 ppm, 2 ppm or 3 ppm, you get different size colonies. And the same applies to cycling with plants. If the plants leave different amounts of NH3 available, you get different numbers for the bacteria.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]So, if I use three’s method in three basically identical tanks except one is to be lightly planted, one is moderately planted and the 3rd is heavily planted, there will be different amounts of bacteria in each one based on how much NH3 each tank leaves available for the bacteria.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Using three’s method in every tank there will always be more bacteria in the tank when the plants are added then once they are put in place. And this increases the time it takes between one’s starting up the tank and having it safe to add a full fish load. The more plants one plans to add, the less bacteria they will need to cultivate. So, at the very least, to use his method efficiently one would want to cycle the tank to about the level the tank actually needed after the plants are added. Of course, it can be difficult to know how much bacteria this might be or.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]On the other hand, if one is uncertain how much bacteria might be needed, and in order to accelerate the whole process, you do it with the plants in. And because the mass of plants can vary in tanks and because the selection of plants usually will also, there is often no way to know how much ammonia the plants might handle. So you plant first, then you determine and add the appropriate initial ammonia dose and test over the next 24 hours. This will indicate to you where things stand. In the end less time and effort is wasted.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]And there is one other important difference with using my method, the bacteria that comes in with the plants acts to help seed the tank with bacteria. It gives a jump start to the cycling to some degree.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]1. The niche of the bacteria and archaea involved relative to ammonia consumption is at a level where plants do not even compete[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt].[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Perhaps in a cycled tank, but not in the scenario of fishless cycling which we are supposed to be discussing.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I should have written that sentence so it said: “[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]The niche of the bacteria and archaea involved relative to ammonia availability is in a range where, at the lower limit, plants do not even compete.[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]”[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]You are mistaken here. First of all, it is typical to find some of the various different bacteria strains, in terms of ammonia affinity, in most waters with ammonia. You might not find the tank types in waste facilities where ammonia levels are always high. But even in some of these with sequenced batch reactors you will. But finding some and having them be the dominant strain are two different things. The NH3 levels will dictate which strain dominates. (Recall the Hovanec patent filing.)[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]The reason you find some of all kinds in most systems is they are basically some survivors ready to reproduce should the levels of ammonia change to those that favor them. In most environments the plants we put into our tanks have come from places where the lower ammonia levels typical in tanks dominate. This is especially true when they come from tanks of other hobbyists. And so when you add plants to a tank, the bacteria in the biofilms on the plants are pretty much the types that dominate in tanks, i.e. the ones which do best at even the lower levels of ammonia. I don’t think fish keepers get plants from waste treatment facilities or constructed wetlands or from out of water adjacent to sources of heavy fertilizer runoff.  [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]And the bacteria also come in via our tap water and, again, they are the strains that thrive in lower ammonia levels. Often they can originate in the less active parts of the private plumbing part of the water supply system. And, if you use a viable bottled bacteria, the same applies regarding the strains there.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]2. There are no cases in nature of any plant loading, or conditions that exist where the nitrifying bacteria still do not coexist with the plants.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I agree with this and I don't think that anyone has argued otherwise. As far as I've read, nobody has claimed that bacteria are not necessary or are driven to complete extinction by plants.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Competition theory does state this. The logical end of completion is either elimination or coexistence. The plants and bacteria can coexist because they uptake different forms of ammonia. And because there will always some amount of total ammonia as NH3, the bacteria are never competed to the final level of extinction. They have their own niche which is not identical to the plants.[/SIZE]
 
3. I have shown plants, especially their roots host biofilms full of nitrfying bacteria and that they will even supply them with oxygen so they can function.
 
[SIZE=12pt]Are you claiming that the majority of nitrifying bacteria in a planted aquarium exist on the plants or in their root systems? What about a tank populated entirely by rootless plants?[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]No, I never said any such thing. The bacteria live on the roots, on the stems and on the leaves. You made the leap to roots only I merely said especially. What I did say as well was that in places where there is a shortage of oxygen in the substrate or soil, plants will actually move oxygen to their roots which then works its way into the adjacent substrate where the bacteria use it. This is especially true of land plants but it doesn’t mean it is absent in aquatics.
 
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4. I have shown that the "father" of fishless cycling considers live plants the 2nd best source for seeding bacteria into tanks.
 
[SIZE=12pt]Acknowledged, but this is not the only method of introducing starter bacteria and the benefits of doing so are contingent on resolving the alleged disadvantages.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Once again you have missed the point. The point is when we plant a tank we are adding some amount of bacteria that come in on the plants. This means that you get a double benefit from adding live plants because it means you are also adding seed bacteria. But just as we have no clue how much bacteria comes in with our tap water, we do not know how much bacteria is on the plants, only that it is some. And this is the reason I say dose and test. As the number of plants going into tank increases, so does the amount of bacteria going in with them. So you ultimately hit a point where, in the absence of any other source of bacteria , the amount of bacteria a tank may need will all arrive on the plants. This is typical of heavily planting at the outset. There is no formula for this and it will often require a decent level of planting which many folks don’t want and don’t do.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]5. I have show that plants don't uptake ammonia when the levels drop to where the bacteria are still using them.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I think point 5 is the same as point 1?[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]The point here is that not will there be NH3 because of how total ammonia and water work, but, if there is an amount of total ammonia in a tank with plants, as the total gets lower, the plants stop using the NH4 as fast. That must leave some additional amount available for some additional time so the bacteria have more chance to get it as NH3. So no, it really is two different points.  Point 1 was that you cannot usually have NH4 without NH3, therefore there must be some amount of NH3 no matter how small. Here I am saying it is likely there is a bit more bacteria than most think even when a tank is well planted. The lower the total ammonia level, the more  NH3 that becomes available for the bacteria
 
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[SIZE=12pt]6. I have shown that in the absence of sophisticated equipment, we cannot test for the bacteria so we can only know that the ammonia is being completely processed but not by who or what. This means we must rely on science to know what is going on because it has the tools.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I agree with EaglesAquarium that we don't really care what is processing the ammonia. You even said it yourself back in post #4, "It does not matter how much of the bio-load is handled by plants or by bacteria, all that matters is it is handled." [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]We know that some will be processed by plants and some by bacteria (as you stated yourself at the start of the thread). The proportion is unlikely to have much effect on the recommended method used for cycling unless it turns out to be completely one-sided, for example if the plants are processing all the ammonia without any need for bacteria - I think we've already established that this is not generally the case for your average planted tank.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]But it does matter a great deal, especially at the outset. In a heavily planted tank this may not matter, but start to remove the plants one by one and you will hit a point where whatever the sum of plants and bacteria on them is, it may not be enough. For plant mavens this is usually not really important. But what about all the tanks with a few plants only or which are basically lightly planted. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]And then there is the issue of potentially having one of the more ammonia sensitive plants or several of them in a set-up like you described you had and I answered already. Again, cycling with plants is not the same thing as without them. One cannot possibly cover every potential situation. But what I can do is cover the more common ones. I can tell folks what to look for that might have an effect in the more uncommon situations and the advanced folks should not need the advice as they will be happy to stock slowly, plants for these folks are, at least as important, and likely more so, than the fish.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I do not accept the term average planted tank. In this discussion averages are meaningless. Only one thing counts- there is no detectable ammonia or nitrite in an established tank. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]So when one plants a tank and there are some bacteria as well because they rode in with the plants, or they rode in with the tap water or they rode in with something out of an established tank or from a bottle, one needs to be certain whatever the combination is, you can add a full fish load which is what most new fish keepers like to do. I am not worried about the tanks that are likely to handle the cycling because the fish keeper is into plants and so is likely to have a whole lot, I am worried about all the other folks who don’t. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I know of no other way to be sure that a tank is ready for a full fish load than to add ammonia and then test after some amount of time not to exceed 24 hours. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]7. Science shows us that the end product of the bacteria (and the AOA for which there are not yet discovered and nitrite oxidizer, only bacterial ones) to be is nitrate, something which plants love and in the absence of man interfering, the primary source of nitrate for plants is bacteria.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]It is known that plants can use nitrate supplied by bacteria, but nitrate is also available from other sources. I have 40ppm nitrate in my tap supply so it is not a particular concern for me and many others deliberately dose potassium nitrate. I'm not sure how this supports your argument that plants should be present in the tank before starting a fishless cycle.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Again your point seems to have no bearing. How many new fish keepers coming to plants for the first time even own potassium nitrate or know about it?  How many people have no nitrate in their water? I used to dose KNO3 into 3 of 12 planted tanks. Now I am down to only 1. Most tanks get some K weekly without the NO3. But in places where no KNO3 is being added and there is no NO3 in the tap, the bacteria can still be making it. So again I will hark back to the new fish keepers with lightly planted tanks. Most of them do minimal fertilizing and almost any NO3 the bacteria provide is a boon to their plants.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I would argue that the nitrate in your tap water is the result of something done by man just like the nitrifiers in the public and private parts of one’s water supply system. They are there especially when chloramines are used to clean the water as it leaves some lovely low level ammonia for them. In America the legal limit for nitrate is under 10 ppm in municipal water. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Please, do not assume I was implying anything more than the nitrifying bacteria are fixing N in a form used by plants when they make NO3. If there are bacteria in one’s tank, they are making nitrate. The amount is not the issue here. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]8. I showed why there is both HN4 and NH3 in the water and how the plants went after the NH4 ad the bacteria the NH3. take up 100% of the ammonia as it is being created to prevent the bacteria from getting any.Since these exist side by side in most tanks, the plants must be able to [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I believe a previous discussion showed us that conversion from NH4 to NH3 happens almost instantaneously, so a reduction in NH4 will immediately decrease the supply of available NH3. It doesn't follow that plants are able to instantly use up ALL the NH3 required by bacteria but it doesn't prove that the bacteria are completely unaffected by NH4 uptake from plants either.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt] 
I have already answered this above. There is simply no way there is nothing for the bacteria no matter how much NH4 the plants uptake. The bacteria will only take up what is there and they will size their colonies to the appropriate level for that. The only time the plants take food from the bacteria that is in place is when the plants come in after the bacteria. Plant first and then work to develop any more needed bacteria and you get the amount of bacteria to meet the available NH3 supply and no more. They find their proper niche in the system.
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[SIZE=12pt]Water circulates it since ammonia is not produced evenly in a tank. Neither plants nor bacteria can chase after their nutrients. It takes more than an instant for ammonia in one part of a tank to be spread to where either plants and/or bacteria can get it all. It is similar to when I put acid into a 55 gal tank to drop the pH. The meter shows 6.2, in 30 secs its 5.8, in a minute its 5.9 and and 3 or 4 minutes from dosing its 6.0. It has to circulate some. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]9. I showed how plants and bacteria are both part of the nitrogen cycles as well, just in different niches and that the bacteria will colonize to whatever ammonia level is available. This means in a 10 gal with one zebra danio and no plants you will have less bacteria than if you add a 2nd danio. This is not competition this is the bacteria doing exactly what they should in that niche of ammonia level.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Are you claiming that plants have absolutely NO effect on the population of nitrifying bacteria? If so, this is at odds with what you have said before and it would mean that plants have zero effect on NH3 levels. If this were true, a silent cycle would be completely impossible.

If not, you cannot view the bacteria simply in isolation. If fish produce 3ppm of ammonia and the plants consume 2ppm of it, it is misleading to state that there is no competition because only 1ppm of ammonia is available.
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[SIZE=12pt]Hopefully, by now you know I will reply to this. You are asking the same things over and over using different wording basically. If the bacteria are there first, the plants will cut them down to the point where it should be for that level of NH3. If the plants and the seed bacteria start together, the bacterial colony will only upsize to the point the NH3 allows. The 3 ppm, 2 ppm example is an over simplification of terms perhaps. If the plants can only uptake enough NH4 to reduce a total ammonia of 3 ppm to a total ammonia of 1 ppm, it potentially leaves that much for the bacteria. It will keep turning into some more NH3 until the bacteria take it up or the plants are able to use more. In reality I think the amounts will be lower but the principle is the same.

10. I showed how bumping the ammonia level over 5 ppm Ammonia-nitrogen will kill the very bacteria at work in tanks and that they would ultimately be replaced by a different strain which thrives at such higher levels but not at the lower ones. I could have gone into tons more detail on this but felt doing so was counter productive to the topic.


I don't remember anybody recommending adding more than 3ppm ammonia. Three-fingers did state that high concentrations of ammonia could damage plants but he stated that the lethal concentration depends on the species of the plant. I apparently managed to kill a plant with 3-4ppm of ammonia, less than the amount needed to cultivate a different species of bacteria.
 
So now lets return to the definition above which is the one three wants to use. I would say that only somebody who is not well uniformed about how the plants work, how the bacteria works and how they are found in nature to work would all indicate the plants are not taking ammonia away from the bacteria and causing there to be no ammonia available to the AOB and AOA. Moreover, the bacteria are certainly not depriving the plants of their ammonium either.


Can you link to where Three-fingers stated that plants would take all the ammonia leaving none for the nitrifiers? I'm honestly struggling to find it.

There is no definition of competition that states all resources have to be consumed causing the eradication of one species. Read further down the definition you quoted. "Examples of exploitative competition include [...] (2) lions and cheetahs competing for gazelles on the African plains" When a lion eats a gazelle the cheetahs don't all suddenly starve, there is simply one less gazelle for the cheetahs to eat. I hope you would agree that the lions and cheetahs are still competing for food? This is all Three-fingers means by competition, but I'm pretty sure he's stated this several times himself already.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]It is implied by competition theory. I quoted a detailed explanation of how it works. But I guess we need something which discusses competion and niche:[/SIZE]
 
 
[SIZE=18pt]Competition and Niche Theory [/SIZE]
Niche Theory
[SIZE=12pt]The Niche ("Notch") [/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]A set of requirements of a species, its location in the environment or ecosystem (i.e. its "habitat") [/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]The n-dimensional hypervolume of a species tolerances to the abiotic and biotic factors of the environment (Hutchinson 1957) [/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]Note the difference between a locational definition, and Hutchinson's definition which is an extension of tolerance-response physiology [/SIZE]
Niche Theory and Competition
[SIZE=12pt]1. The competitive exclusion principle[/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]No two species can occupy the same niche (Gause) [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]2. Tolerance-response and competition[/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]Where the abiotic tolerances of a species (the fundamental niche) overlap with another species, then one species may be excluded from the region of overlap (realized niche) [/SIZE]
Niche Breadth and Overlap
  • [SIZE=12pt]Niche breadth refers to the amount and range of resources used by a species [/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]Niche overlap is the degree to which two or more species share the same resources [/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]Greater breadth means greater overlap, which leads to competitive exclusion (fewer species) [/SIZE]
  • [SIZE=12pt]Narrow breadth implies less overalp, or greater resource partitioning, which leads to coexistence of more species [/SIZE]
Outcomes of Competition
[SIZE=12pt]1. Reduction in population sizes (coexistence)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]2. Change in space use or activity (coexistence)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]3. Competitive exclusion (local extinction) [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]4. Character displacement (evolutionary) [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]From [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]http://zoology.muohio.edu/crist/zoo204/Competition.html[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]We know one can have a tank completely cycled with only the bacteria needed to process 3 ppm of ammonia into nitrate. We will measure the volume of ammonia one must add initially.  When the tank is able to do this, if you could extract all the bacteria involved in this, could you even see the entire mass with the naked eye? [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Now, lets say you have a tank with enough plants to be able to process this same volume of ammonia. I don’t care if the tank is bigger, but I want these plants to have to least amount of bacteria on them as is reasonably possible.  You can select any tank plants you want here,[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Now compare the biomass or the volume of the plants to that of the bacteria. What does this suggest to us about the relationship between the plants and the bacteria in the nitrogen cycle? Does it suggest competition or niche at work? Bear in mind the plants are uptaking NH4 and the bacteria NH3 (normally).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]I must agree with EaglesAquarium that all this wrangling over the definition of 'competition' is a non-productive use of time.
 
Finally, this discussion was actually about cycling a tank with plants in at the start or not. But when I began to show how and why this can be done and not cause algae vs three's taking the opposite view, the topic started to morph. And this was not done by me. This is the strategy of a person desperate to be right but unable to back it up with any evidence.


I'm struggling to find the part where you showed us how a fishless cycle can be done without causing algae and without killing plants. You said anecdotally that you've done this yourself using a different ammonia dosing regimen and you've made some mention of blackouts, but you didn't tell us how to do it.

If your core argument has been amended from "Plant the tank, then cycle it" to performing the cycle under an undisclosed set of controlled conditions, I think we need to know what those conditions are. I know you've said that you're going to write an article that will enlighten us on the subject but it might help the discussion if you could give us a few spoilers right now.
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[SIZE=12pt]When I agreed to start writing new articles for the site, which ones, how much they covered etc. was not my decision. I wanted to include more sophisticated information in the basic cycling article but was told for now not to, it could be addressed later. I wanted to deal with testing and kits. Again wait for a separate article. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]As I keep trying to tell folks, cycling with plants is not so simple- there are a lot more variables. Often, the only way to know which variables may be at work and how exactly to proceed comes from doing an initial ammonia dose or being a well versed plant person. For the more basic planted tanks, the ones with not enough plant mass to handle all the ammonia, they can pretty much follow the same directions. But as the plant load and/or selection begins to markedly lower the need for bacteria, you hit a point where the test results will never meet the conditions in the article. The nitrite will be out of whack. The ammonia will drop but the nitrite numbers simply won’t be there and those directions will not apply.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Every time somebody posts a cycling Q and you reply, do you explain the entire cycling process from start to finish? Well it is the same in this case. Basically, often one can use the basic directions with plants, especially for all those folks doing a few plants only. But if you want to know how to handle the variety of situations that will involve plants, it needs its own major section in an article that deals with ways to accelerate the “cycle” and one of these involves plants. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]It also involves seeding bacteria from established tanks and/or bottled. Finally, that spectrum will end with what I refer to as the instantly cycled tank. This is one you set up and which the has a enough plants and/or bacteria such that you dose 2 or 3 ppm of ammonia and when you test your numbers are 0. While the 0s may show up sooner, often in a few hours, as long as they hit 0 in 24 hours or less, the tank can be stocked fully right away. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]One is basically planting the tank and cycling it, but how much bacteria are needed is highly variable. This makes it more complex and yes it should have more detail. But here are some good reasons why the two methods are not the same.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]Given two as close to reasonably identical tanks in terms of size, stocking and plants but which have different tap water going in terms of the pH. One is about 7.0 and the other about 8.0. Should both tanks have the same amount of nitrifying bacteria in them when both are fully established?[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]You are working your way up the plant experience curve, so can you tell us the ammonia toxicity threshold for each of your plants? Can you tell us the different daily uptake rates of each for ammonium? Can you even point us to a sources which would provide any guidelines for this?[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]You need to add a full fish load to a tank, you will be adding some plants and you will be adding some bacteria via taking some things from your already cycled tanks to help out as well. How can you know if the setup is safe to receive that fishload. Dose and test.[/SIZE]
 
 
[SIZE=12pt] I showed science that the bacteria and plants coexist and do not eliminate each other. The way to show this is false is to provide other science which refutes it. Not by tossing off a few terms and stating the science isn't relevant. How is it not relevant, its deals with plants and bacteria in the same environments, it shows they are acutally co-operating more than competing. I am still waiting for science that shows this is not the case.

In posts #7 and #22 Three-fingers categorically stated that he is not claiming that bacteria and plants cannot co-exist. I wouldn't expect people to provide scientific evidence for claims they have never made. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]If you are still confused here, go back up and reread about competition and niche. I never saw where three used the term niche. I never saw the term coexistence, I saw competition theory and I took that as the classical definition. But, as much as I hate using Wiki as a source, they put it pretty simply:[/SIZE]
 
 
[SIZE=12pt]“[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]According to the [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]competitive exclusion principle[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt], species less suited to compete for resources should either [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]adapt[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] or [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]die out[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt], although competitive exclusion is rarely found in natural ecosystems. According to [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]evolutionary theory[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt], this competition within and between species for resources plays a very relevant role in [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]natural selection[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt], however, competition may play less of a role than expansion among larger groups such as families.[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt][2][/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]”[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]From  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Competition_%28biology%29[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I took the above definition to be the one implied by three when he began talking about the plants out competing the bacteria. And an aquarium is most certainly not a natural ecosystem.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]In the end there was no reason a discussion of using a combination of plants and bacteria needed to veer off into competition vs niche or what constitutes an ecosystem. None of this matters to most fish keepers, especially the newer ones and those who are happy having one or maybe two very simple easy to care for tanks. As soon as one agrees that the job of cycling in a tank is divied in some way between plants and bacteria, that was enough to make the point.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I post here or write articles for the site to help the more advanced folks. I am here to help all the rest, the one’s who need it the most. The great majority of these folks could go ahead and stick a few plants into their tanks and cycle it as if there were none. But there are no exact number of plants/gallon or liter nor a rule that specifies exactly which plants to choose.  This makes it more complicated and is why it needs its own article.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]I hope the above has answered your questions to your satisfaction. [/SIZE]
 
 
[SIZE=12pt]And now for some observations, food for thought so to speak, on issues which often have an impact on cycling with plants.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]- Plants live mostly in the water, the bacteria live mostly on hard surfaces (including plants). [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]- In a full fishless cycle with no seeding the number of days one has an ammonia reading between 0 and 3 ppm is about 24. But for most of those days that level is well under 3 or even 2 ppm. Add plants and some amount of bacteria (even just what comes on the plants) and the number of days drops drastically as do the concentrations on any of those days. Seed a bit of bacteria as well and we are now talking minimal days and concentrations.[/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]- Plants can and do limit the number and types of fish one can keep in a tank. Clearly one cannot keep plants with true vegetarian fish. One cannot keep some with fish that root around in the substrate. You cannot keep bigger fish with plants they may bulldoze trying to move about. There are many instances where one must sacrifice the choice of fish due to the choice of plants. This is fine for some hobbyists. But at the newbie end of the spectrum, it is uncommon for the hobbyist to want plants over fish. This usually comes with more experience. [/SIZE]
 
[SIZE=12pt]- All other things being equal, in a tank with plants, the higher the pH, the more bacteria there should be. Whatever the amount of total ammonia, the higher the pH the more of it will be NH3. So identical tanks at 7.0 and 8.0 will have different size bacterial colonies.[/SIZE]
 
 
Blimey
 
I have only just found this post after it was created from a topic started by me about co2 during cycling. Seems i started a rather large debate which i  wasnt expecting. i didnt think the answer would be that in depth or indeed cause that much debate! how wrong i was.  
 
After reading and re reading the whole thread over two days i have decided to use co2 for four hours a day, (the same time as the lights are on) starting two hours before lights on.
 
Being relativly new to the hobby i do feel i made my first mistake, letting my patience beet me haha. in hinesight i should have wated before my fishless cycle completed before adding the plants etc. oh well you live and learn.
 
Thankyou all for your time posting it has been helpfull to me and sure in will be to others in the future. should you be interested in what im upto i have a journal running in freshwater journals titled 'my juwel rio125 adventure'
 
Dan
 
farm thanks for the post. I am confused by your journal results as they does not match the initial assumptions in the original post. According the three fingers you were obviously cycling a planted tank. But, according to your journal, you cycled first and then added the plants. This makes me wonder why you asked about adding co2 during cycling. There would be no reason for this in the absence of plants. I am also confused by the results you reported. For one, 106 L dosed to 3 ppm with 9.5% ammonia takes 3.35 ml not .9. So I am confused by this, unless you used a much stronger ammonia. But your journal is not real detailed and this was not discussed.
 
Next, you show ammonia dropping but no nitrite initially. But in an unseeded tank with no plants this should not be possible. If the ammonia drops, the only place it goes is to become nitrite so as ammonia drops nitrite appears. And the nitrite then hangs around and increases until enough nitrite oxidizing bacteria have reproduced. not what you indicated had happened.
 
When one intends to plant 50% or more of the area, there is rarely a need for any cycling. The plants can handle most of the ammonia and the bacteria that comes in with them provides seeding for any more bacteria that shouldneed to  develop. In such a tank all one needs to do is to dose 2 or 3 ppm of ammonia and test in 24 hours in order to see how much ammonia is being processed- regardless of whether it is plants or bacteria doing it.
 
I really need to write the article on cycling with plants because I would have suggested totally different methods for your situation. I would have told you to plant the tank, wait about 10-14 days and do the initial ammonia dose to test the tanks capacity to process ammonia. I would have told you to do a nitrite test at the same time to determine if the plants got all the ammonia or they were not able to do so and left enough ammonia to show that more bacteria would be needed. Often, even if there is a small amount of ammonia but no nitrite, what it means there are an equal amount of both bacteria to process what they can right through to nitrate.
 
I would have further said if the ammonia and nitrite readings after this dose and test were fairly low- clearly under 1 ppm for both measures that you had two alternatives. One is to dose additional ammonia over the next few days to encourage the bacteria to come up to strength or else to start stocking immediately but not to do so fully. I would have suggested adding about 50% of the fish and testing over the next few days and as long as you were getting small numbers to ride it out a day or two. But if you were getting 0/0 numbers, it was then safe to up the stocking.
 
The thing people tend to forget in the cycling process, whether plants are involved or not, is that smaller amounts of ammonia and nitrite do not last very long. Bear in mind that the bacteria can basically double in a day- the ammonia ones faster than the nitrite ones. What this means is that a new tank doses with 3 ppm of ammonia will normally process the first ppm much more slowly than the last ppm. This is because they are reproducing so by the time they get to the last ppm there are many more of them. With plants this can go even faster because as plants grow larger, they also can uptake more nutrients.
 
One of the key difference in cycling with or without plants again traces back to nitrite. This is most often the culprit in stalled fishless cycles. But in tanks with plants, nitrite levels will always be lower than without plants. The reason is simple, when plants uptake ammonium, they remove it from the water but then do not create nitrite the way ammonia bacs do. So every ppm of ammonia plants take up means 2.55 ppm of nitrite that wont be created.
 
Many of the differences in cycling issues with or without plants are related to the difference one will see in terms of readings for nitrite and nitrate. because the plants don't make nitrite numbers are lower for this and because they also consume nitrate, the numbers for this would also he lower than expected. What complicates all of this is cycling involves ammonia going in (either added or created by fish etc.) and then testing. We can not see the bacteria or count them and we do not know how much our newly added plants may take up either. Of course we do know with enough plants in a tank it wont really matter. but most folks do not plant anywhere near this heavily and most wont start with larger sizes of plants. So the only way to know how much ammonia a tank with some number of plants and bacteria present might handle is to dose to 2 or 3 ppm and test. from there we make the rest of the plan to insure the tank is safe for fish.
 
Of course I have completely omitted stocking levels in this discussion even though they also play a part in the process. The same tank might be ready for light stocking but not full stocking for example. However, if the fish keeper want to stock fully, this matters, if one is willing to stock in stages, it may not.
 
I would end by noting in tanks with no plants and no bacterial seeding that the methods here dose to 3 ppm for the sake of safety. It gives a nice margin of error so that newer hobbyist wont under cycle a tank and then try to stock it fully. And the entire process of cycling can be made pretty universal in these cases. But as soon as one brings in plants or seed bacteria, the paradigm changes. The numbers and methods for pure fishless cycling tend to become less useful the more plants and/or bacterial seeding one does. And this , in turn, means the numbers used in the cycling article may never be seen and therefore the fishless cycling road map there becomes useless. How can one add another dose of ammonia if nitrites never hit the target reading for when to act?
 
So I am still faced with the same situation in this regard. Until I can organize the next article in the cycling arena, how to do it with seeding and/or plants, and then have it meet with approval from the Admins and mods, this subject will never be properly laid out. My one caveat is that I expect folks who are using more sophisticated plants and more involved fertilizing and co2 addition should be advanced enough not to think that the fishless cycling article applies to what they are doing. if they do not, then they really are playing over their heads at that point. How can anyone knowing some plants can not handle much ammonia put sophisticated plants into a tank and add ammonia without checking? To me it is like folks trying to do a fish in cycle but not knowing the difference between NH3 and NH4.
 
hi, just read my post and 106ltr is a miss print it is actually 115ltrs and the ammonia used was 35%. 0.9 created 3ppm when tested. i was unsure as to why nitrite took so long to show too but it did, my test kit was even proven against another kit, maybe it had something to do with overdosing dechlorinator. i was doing a fishless cycle however plants were perchased before it was fully completed hence why i asked if i could use co2 with the plants planted in the tank whilst continuing with the cycle.
 
My one caveat is that I expect folks who are using more sophisticated plants and more involved fertilizing and co2 addition should be advanced enough not to think that the fishless cycling article applies to what they are doing. if they do not, then they really are playing over their heads at that point. How can anyone knowing some plants can not handle much ammonia put sophisticated plants into a tank and add ammonia without checking? To me it is like folks trying to do a fish in cycle but not knowing the difference between NH3 and NH4.
I have not had time to give this topic the attention I would like due to stuff going on in my life. However I would like to point out that every one of the plants in my tank are classified as 'Easy' by Tropica so I'm not sure by what yardstick you define a plant as sophisticated. I was aware that monosolenium tenerum is a liverwort although I would have assumed this categorizes it as a 'simple' plant rather than sophisticated in terms of biology. I doubt that this is a useful guide to judging the susceptibility of a plant to ammonia poisoning in any case.

I have heard you recommend fishless cycling with plants to different people many times in the past and until now I have never heard you mention a reduced ammonia dosage or question whether sophisticated plants were present. It seems rather unfair to assume that somebody who is choosing plants from the Tropica easy category should know better.
 
Personally, I would call any plant 'sophisticated' that requires pressurized CO2.
 
By that definition none of my plants are sophisticated. I run CO2 in order to promote lush growth not because I grow anything that can't live without it. I would just like to make this point that not everybody who uses CO2 and fertilizers is a certified plant guru. There is a transitional group of planted tank enthusiasts (as already pointed out several times in this thread) who are pushing the boundaries of their knowledge with higher tech tanks but are not sufficiently experienced to abandon ammonia in favour of silent cycling. It is a fallacy to expect them to instinctively intuit best practices without proper guidance.
 
I'll just jump in quickly and add, that there's no point what so ever in using test kits when/if cycling your tank with plants if you're using a decent fert like Tropica ferts, as they're ammonium based, which off the shelf test kits will pick up as ammonia. So, be very careful when giving advice on cycling planted tank when using a decent fertiliser. Using ammonia to cycle in a planted tank, and using ammonia will skew your results big time!

As many of you are aware, I silent cycle my scapes every time. I also agree, it's not a thing for beginners to do, however, we should always take into account what plants the person is using to silently cycle their tanks. Using slow growing plants in a silent cycle won't work as well. Plants like crypts, ferns and swords are not enough for a silent cycle.
 
I am operating under the assumption that a person will not be adding any ferts to the tank when doing any needed cycling. A silent cycle has no need for ammonia because plant folks are willing to stock as gradually as may be needed and because they tend to have enough plants (and the bacteria they bring with them) to process the amount of ammonia that the tank will be making.
 
I really do need to lay this out in great detail in one place for folks to understand it. Ian- my concern is not you and your ability to do a silent cycle. It is not for the people who are into major planting levels and more unique plants. My concern is the person who is doing their first or second tank and often their first attempt at live plants. These are folks who will usually add a few plants to a tank because they want to keep fish more than plants. However, like many folks they appreciate having some plants in their tank.
 
One of the reasons I am not a fan of Amano tanks is because of the fact they are tanks for plants and the fish are a secondary consideration. His tanks are lovely, but I keep fish and have plants in their tanks. A good number of hobbyists,especially the newer ones, seem to do the same.
 
But I will repeat what I have said in the past. Plant the tank first, give the plants time to settle in some. The odds are minimal ferts if any are needed here. Then you begin with the cycle part. The first step for that is to do a big water change to get stuff out and then you do an ammonia dose of 2 or 3 ppm. The 24 hour test results will indicate how to proceed from there. It is possible in some cases there will not ever be another ammonia addition. In many cases there may be one more, possibly two. The amount of time ammonia will be going into a tank with plants to get it completely ready for stocking is minimal. We are talking a matter of days here not weeks in most cases. Bear in mind that the one thing most new hobbyists have when they embark on their second tank is some bacteria to add to it.
 
TwoTankAmin said:
I am operating under the assumption that a person will not be adding any ferts to the tank when doing any needed cycling.
That's a big assumption. I don't use ammonia-based ferts but if somebody is running CO2 on a tank then you can be pretty sure they will be dosing some kind of ferts. As I've said, you are not accounting for the hobbyist who is keen to try out CO2 but is not sufficiently experienced for a silent cycle.
 
Plant the tank first, give the plants time to settle in some. The odds are minimal ferts if any are needed here.
I think this depends on too many factors to be acceptable as a broad statement. In the planted world it is considered best practice to give plants as many nutrients as they require to keep them healthy right from the start. The amount of nutrients they require will depend on lighting strength and photoperiod, supply or not of carbon, plant types and biomass.

If your guide is intended to target a very limited subset of hobbyists who want to stay low-tech and stick maybe a couple of crypts and a sword in their tank then you need to make this clear. It sounds like you are discounting the possibility of CO2 and ferts being used during cycling. If this is your intention then the implied recommendation is that anyone using CO2 should follow three-fingers advice of cycling first and adding plants later instead.
 
The amount of time ammonia will be going into a tank with plants to get it completely ready for stocking is minimal. We are talking a matter of days here not weeks in most cases. Bear in mind that the one thing most new hobbyists have when they embark on their second tank is some bacteria to add to it.
My own experience does not agree with this prediction. My tank took three weeks to cycle with several ammonia additions, after mature media seeding. Your prediction may work for some people but there are too many variables to guarantee that cycling will be complete in a matter of days for everyone.
 

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