Testing for nitrate is difficult. So what many tests will do it turn the nitrate in nitrite and then test for that, However, If one had nitrite in the water then that would get counted as being nitrate. So before you test for nitrate, you need to know the ppm for nitrite. Them you can subtract that number from the nitrate test result.
However, there is no need to test for nitrate when doing a fishless cycle. Once you can clear the ammonia you are adding in 24 hours and also get 0 for nitrite, you are cycled. Then you should do a large water change as much as you can. Any nitrate left when you fill the tank back up will be minimal unless you have it coming in with your tap water.
If you are dosing the ammonium chloride according to to his directions for cycling, the 2 ppm he suggests is measured on the nitrogen scale and API tests measure using the total ion scale. So Dr. Tim's 2 ppm dose on the API kit would read as being 2.56 ppm.
Also, you need to do the high range pH test. Your result looks to bee the highest number, so higher levels can only read that high.
Finally to get an accurate value yhe tunes bend to be heald agains the whiye area on the card next to the bars for what the vial is testing. Thie is how one gets the most accurate reading.