I cleaned out 1/3 of the water and wiped down the sides, it was looking a little clearer for a while then this morning its still green. The light has been off. The new filter media is on its way. What do I do?
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Cycling help
- Thread starter cla.ra
- Start date
Just to confirm - there are no creatures in the tank at the moment - axolotls or fish?
Once the new filter media arrives, just turn off the filter, remove those kitchen sponges then rinse the new media under the tap and put them in.
Did you get a manual with the filter? If you didn't, you can download it from here https://support.allpondsolutions.co...articles/44001284433-700if-instruction-manual
You don't actually need the UV filter, but if you do use it the bulb must be replaced regularly. The instructions don't mention if the UV light can be turned off, or the filter run without the bulb. UV light can be used to kill the algae that turns the water green, but it does depend on how efficiently the filter moves the water past the bulb - and whether the bulb is under 6 months old.
The easiest way to get rid of the floating algae is to totally wrap the tank in something thick so that no daylight/electric room light can get in. Leave it there for 3 days. That starves the algae of light and they die. But they will come back if the cause isn't rectified.
Once that is sorted you can think about cycling the tank. This can be done in 2 ways - fishless cycling or plant cycling.
I know that axolotls need cooler water than tropical fish (maximum 20 deg C/68 deg F) so if you decided to do a plant cycle, you would need plants that can live at this temperature. Members who have cold water tanks should be able to suggest suitable plants. As axolotls tend to uproot plnats growing in the substrate, floating plants would be a better option. Plant cycling involves planting the tank then waiting until they are showing signs of active growth.
Fish less cycling is described here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ Because the bacteria grow better in temps in the upper 20's C, I would raise the water temp during cycling, then turn it down once the cycle finished.
Once the new filter media arrives, just turn off the filter, remove those kitchen sponges then rinse the new media under the tap and put them in.
Did you get a manual with the filter? If you didn't, you can download it from here https://support.allpondsolutions.co...articles/44001284433-700if-instruction-manual
You don't actually need the UV filter, but if you do use it the bulb must be replaced regularly. The instructions don't mention if the UV light can be turned off, or the filter run without the bulb. UV light can be used to kill the algae that turns the water green, but it does depend on how efficiently the filter moves the water past the bulb - and whether the bulb is under 6 months old.
The easiest way to get rid of the floating algae is to totally wrap the tank in something thick so that no daylight/electric room light can get in. Leave it there for 3 days. That starves the algae of light and they die. But they will come back if the cause isn't rectified.
Once that is sorted you can think about cycling the tank. This can be done in 2 ways - fishless cycling or plant cycling.
I know that axolotls need cooler water than tropical fish (maximum 20 deg C/68 deg F) so if you decided to do a plant cycle, you would need plants that can live at this temperature. Members who have cold water tanks should be able to suggest suitable plants. As axolotls tend to uproot plnats growing in the substrate, floating plants would be a better option. Plant cycling involves planting the tank then waiting until they are showing signs of active growth.
Fish less cycling is described here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ Because the bacteria grow better in temps in the upper 20's C, I would raise the water temp during cycling, then turn it down once the cycle finished.
There is nothing in the tank at the moment. It has been cycling for 4 days. I have now turned on the UV light (not sure of its age) but was thinking of just emptying the tank and starting again.
We were advised by a professional fish store to cycle for a week using bottled bacteria and then test the water at the end of the week and go from there.
Fish stores do not believe in cycling, they believe the hype that the manufacturers tell them. Even if they listen to the rep they can still get it wrong - I was in a shop several years ago and the chap told the customer in front of me to use a particular brand of bottled bacteria and fully stock the tank at the same time or it wouldn't work. I googled the product when I got home and the instructions actually said to add the product to the tank then get a few fish, gradually adding more fish over the next few months.
Adding a bacterial starter to a tank does not mean it will be ready for fish in a week. The bacteria need to settle in to the biofilm - and the biofilm needs to grow - and they need to be fed. That's why it is much safer to use the bacterial starter to speed up a fishless cycle. If the product works (and not all do) it will speed up the cycle. The cycle may complete in a week, but if it doesn't and you add fish (or axolotls) before it is complete you will be doing a fish-in cycle.
Some bacterial starters work better than others, and even the best ones don't work at all if they've beeen stored incorrectly since they left the factory - left in a lorry that got too hot in summer or too cold in winter for example.
Adding a bacterial starter to a tank does not mean it will be ready for fish in a week. The bacteria need to settle in to the biofilm - and the biofilm needs to grow - and they need to be fed. That's why it is much safer to use the bacterial starter to speed up a fishless cycle. If the product works (and not all do) it will speed up the cycle. The cycle may complete in a week, but if it doesn't and you add fish (or axolotls) before it is complete you will be doing a fish-in cycle.
Some bacterial starters work better than others, and even the best ones don't work at all if they've beeen stored incorrectly since they left the factory - left in a lorry that got too hot in summer or too cold in winter for example.
maybe get a nerite snail? idk if the axolotol will eat them but maybe...No, it was new gravel.
Ok, thanks
Hi, so I read the whole thread and have bought testing strips
Is this bacteria that I have to add ammonia? The thread said it was a dose of ammonia and doesn't mention anything else, but the only bottled bacteria I can find is to REDUCE ammonia. Sorry for so many questions I'm just trying to grasp this all
https://www.fishkeeper.co.uk/fluval-cycle-biological-enhancer does this look good
if you use stuff like this or quick start, make sure to put some ammonia in there( rotten stuff) good one is to just put a tiny bit of fish food in there to rot
Ooh okay, so when I set it all up I sprinkle a bit of food in? Do I have to test the level of ammonia before putting the other stuff in?
yes
If you've bought strips, they are unlikely to include ammonia so you'll need to get a separate ammonia tester.
The Fluval bacterial starter is not one of the recommended ones. I would get Tetra Safe Start. And from an actual fish shop if possible as the weather is so cold at the moment that if it's sent by post/other courier it could get so cold the bacteria in it could be killed.
www.fishkeeper.co.uk
Food can be used to cycle a tank but because you cannot know how much ammonia this generates as it decomposes, you cannot know if enough bacteria have grown. It is better to use a bottle of ammonia or ammonium chloride and follow the method on here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
The Fluval bacterial starter is not one of the recommended ones. I would get Tetra Safe Start. And from an actual fish shop if possible as the weather is so cold at the moment that if it's sent by post/other courier it could get so cold the bacteria in it could be killed.
Tetra SafeStart
Creates a biologically active environment to allow the fast introduction of fish into a newly set up aquarium. The live bacteria contained within Tetra SafeStart speeds up the process of creating a biologically active habitat.
Food can be used to cycle a tank but because you cannot know how much ammonia this generates as it decomposes, you cannot know if enough bacteria have grown. It is better to use a bottle of ammonia or ammonium chloride and follow the method on here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
Okay, I think this is right lol. This is what I need to do?:If you've bought strips, they are unlikely to include ammonia so you'll need to get a separate ammonia tester.
The Fluval bacterial starter is not one of the recommended ones. I would get Tetra Safe Start. And from an actual fish shop if possible as the weather is so cold at the moment that if it's sent by post/other courier it could get so cold the bacteria in it could be killed.
Tetra SafeStart
Creates a biologically active environment to allow the fast introduction of fish into a newly set up aquarium. The live bacteria contained within Tetra SafeStart speeds up the process of creating a biologically active habitat.
Food can be used to cycle a tank but because you cannot know how much ammonia this generates as it decomposes, you cannot know if enough bacteria have grown. It is better to use a bottle of ammonia or ammonium chloride and follow the method on here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
1) Set up tank and add chlorine treatment & first dose of ammonia according to tank, test it to make sure its at 3ppm?
2) Continue testing it every other day
Ok I understand it much better now after having a deeper read lol.If you've bought strips, they are unlikely to include ammonia so you'll need to get a separate ammonia tester.
The Fluval bacterial starter is not one of the recommended ones. I would get Tetra Safe Start. And from an actual fish shop if possible as the weather is so cold at the moment that if it's sent by post/other courier it could get so cold the bacteria in it could be killed.
Tetra SafeStart
Creates a biologically active environment to allow the fast introduction of fish into a newly set up aquarium. The live bacteria contained within Tetra SafeStart speeds up the process of creating a biologically active habitat.
Food can be used to cycle a tank but because you cannot know how much ammonia this generates as it decomposes, you cannot know if enough bacteria have grown. It is better to use a bottle of ammonia or ammonium chloride and follow the method on here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/
Does this look like a good ammonia source? Max Strength Ammonia - 500ml | Homebase
And I'm going to follow the exact instructions on that thread - where would the Tetra Safe Start tie in? Because it would completely change those instructions right
Homebase ammonia used to be one of the recommended ones, but check the ingredients on the bottle for detergent, perfume, etc as it can't be used if it contains anything except ammonia or ammonium hydroxide.
Tetra Safe Start will just speed up the time it takes for the cycle. The method on here says to test every third day after the first ammonia dose, but I would test every other day as if TSS works you'll reach the first target quickly.
Don't be tempted to add ammonia before the targets have been reached. The old method of fishless cycling said to add ammonia every time it dropped to zero. But that made so much nitrite that the cycle stalled. Our method was written so that if ammonia is only added when certain targets have been reached, nitrite can never each stall point.
Each 1 ppm ammonia is turned into 2.7 ppm nitrite. Stall point is 15 to 16 ppm nitrite. It doesn't take much ammonia to make that much nitrite.
Tetra Safe Start will just speed up the time it takes for the cycle. The method on here says to test every third day after the first ammonia dose, but I would test every other day as if TSS works you'll reach the first target quickly.
Don't be tempted to add ammonia before the targets have been reached. The old method of fishless cycling said to add ammonia every time it dropped to zero. But that made so much nitrite that the cycle stalled. Our method was written so that if ammonia is only added when certain targets have been reached, nitrite can never each stall point.
Each 1 ppm ammonia is turned into 2.7 ppm nitrite. Stall point is 15 to 16 ppm nitrite. It doesn't take much ammonia to make that much nitrite.
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