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Cory with seemingly immobile pec fin with white fuzzy growth on tip

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1.5 wks ago I introduced 5 corys to my 65gal. Tank. I noticed one of them was a little shy, but I passed it off as a little shock. Now he's out and about, still rarely hanging out with the other corys though. He's also darker, so I can always spot him out. Today I noticed it looks like one pectoral fin isn't working & he has a white (fuzzy?) Dot on the tip of his fin. The more I watch him, the more he seems unhealthy. He kind of swims standing still if that makes sense. By my observation his appetite is poor compared to the other corys in the tank.
Temp:78 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, nitrate 10 ppm PH 7.8 I'm unsure of water hardness
 

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It’s a little hard to tell for me, but does look like he has fin rot along with white fuzz on the edge? Typically white fuzz is a sign of a fungal infection. If it is hard and smooth, then it is a cyst of some sort and could be several things.
 
I'm not sure if it's hard. From everything I've looked up, it does seem like a fungal infection. Should I take him out of the tank & relocate to a separate space? He's not using that fin at all. I'm wondering if I'm able to save him, he looks pretty sad. ( or maybe he just looks like he needs treatment)
 
I'll add, my platy went into labor today. So this is all just a whole lot. I'm not sure what to do.
What is your stock for the tank? It also depends on where it is on his fin. From what I know, fungal fin rot compared to fungus on the body is two different treatments. I know @Colin_T is very knowledgeable with treatments as has said them before so I hope he will reply.
 
It could be fungus or excess mucous on the edge of the pectoral (side) fin. It looks more like mucous than fungus.

The fish is skinny and has some minor damage to the fins. It's not a happy fish.

It might have been injured when it was caught at the shop or has injured itself in the tank since you got it. However, since there are a group of them and only one has an issue, I would say it has an underlying health issue that is weakening it and making it take longer to recover from being caught and moved to your tank.

You can try doing a big water change and gravel cleaning the substrate, cleaning the filter and adding salt. This might help. You could also deworm the fish. You use salt in the main tank with all the fish so you don't stress the sick one by chasing it and moving it, and so you kill any disease organisms in the main tank. there's no point treating a fish in a clean hospital tank if you move it back into a dirty diseased tank straight after treatment. Deworming medications should also be used in the main tank.

See section 3 of the following link for deworming fish.

----------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
Okay I have aquarium salt that I use for a hermit crab tank, but I have several live plants in this tank. Oh boy, this is a complex issue. I did a 50% water change just a few days ago & gravel vacuumed.
 
What is your stock for the tank? It also depends on where it is on his fin. From what I know, fungal fin rot compared to fungus on the body is two different treatments. I know @Colin_T is very knowledgeable with treatments as has said them before so I hope he will reply.
I have 4 platy fish, 6 neon black tetras, 5 corys & a snail. I'm hoping I can figure this out! Thank you for taking the time to help!!
 
It could be fungus or excess mucous on the edge of the pectoral (side) fin. It looks more like mucous than fungus.

The fish is skinny and has some minor damage to the fins. It's not a happy fish.

It might have been injured when it was caught at the shop or has injured itself in the tank since you got it. However, since there are a group of them and only one has an issue, I would say it has an underlying health issue that is weakening it and making it take longer to recover from being caught and moved to your tank.

You can try doing a big water change and gravel cleaning the substrate, cleaning the filter and adding salt. This might help. You could also deworm the fish. You use salt in the main tank with all the fish so you don't stress the sick one by chasing it and moving it, and so you kill any disease organisms in the main tank. there's no point treating a fish in a clean hospital tank if you move it back into a dirty diseased tank straight after treatment. Deworming medications should also be used in the main tank.

See section 3 of the following link for deworming fish.

----------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Okay, so I do have aquarium salt that I use for hermit crabs, I have live plants so I can move them need be, ( do plants carry diseases/ fungus with them?) I can move my pregnant platy to a breeder box, I can move my snail, I can do another gravel vac / wc. Wish me luck!
 
It could be fungus or excess mucous on the edge of the pectoral (side) fin. It looks more like mucous than fungus.

The fish is skinny and has some minor damage to the fins. It's not a happy fish.

It might have been injured when it was caught at the shop or has injured itself in the tank since you got it. However, since there are a group of them and only one has an issue, I would say it has an underlying health issue that is weakening it and making it take longer to recover from being caught and moved to your tank.

I thought the same, but have a close look, does the cory look a little deformed to you? Or is the skinnyness and general unhappiness throwing me off? I'm wondering if it's a bit of a runt?
Okay I have aquarium salt that I use for a hermit crab tank, but I have several live plants in this tank. Oh boy, this is a complex issue. I did a 50% water change just a few days ago & gravel vacuumed.
Most live plants can weather salt treatment for a while. Don't panic, and yes, something like worm eggs, even sharing nets/buckets/syphons can spread disease, parasites or worm eggs. So juggling fish/plants etc inbetween tanks isn't ideal.
I have 4 platy fish, 6 neon black tetras, 5 corys & a snail. I'm hoping I can figure this out! Thank you for taking the time to help!!

Deep breaths. You sound a bit panicky, when it's not panic stations yet! Urgent, but not an emergency, so take the time to get advice and think through a proper plan before you do anything. Okay?
Okay, so I do have aquarium salt that I use for hermit crabs, I have live plants so I can move them need be, ( do plants carry diseases/ fungus with them?) I can move my pregnant platy to a breeder box, I can move my snail, I can do another gravel vac / wc. Wish me luck!

Leave the female platy alone, moving a labouring fish to a breeder box stresses them, and the last thing a female of any species needs during labour is stress. Let her have the fry in the main tank, then if you're worried about and want to save every fry, net the fry themselves and move them to the breeder box for the first couple of weeks, until they're big enough to avoid being eaten. Livebearer females really don't need help to have their fry, best to let her get on with it.

The snail might need to be moved for salt treatment, I'm not sure.. @Colin_T ? I'm also concerned about cross contamination issues between the hermit crabs and the aquarium. How many tanks do you have set up and in use? Do you share buckets/syphons/nets et between them?
 
Look up photos of "Columnaris", or cotton disease on fins. It isn't uncommon on new arrivals, and would not be good news. But it might be worth a look before you mess the tank up with salt.
 
It's not Columnaris.

Okay, so I do have aquarium salt that I use for hermit crabs, I have live plants so I can move them need be, ( do plants carry diseases/ fungus with them?) I can move my pregnant platy to a breeder box, I can move my snail, I can do another gravel vac / wc. Wish me luck!
Read post number 6 under the heading Salt.
Third paragraph is 1 sentence.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

Don't move anything out, just treat the tank.
 
It's not Columnaris.


Read post number 6 under the heading Salt.
Third paragraph is 1 sentence.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

Don't move anything out, just treat the tank.
So I did some reading, what I have is marine salt. I cannot use that right? I didn't put it in, the soonest I can get that salt is tomorrow. I guess we'll see how it goes
 
This is the latest photo. I'm hoping I'm posting this properly, I haven't ever used a forum, but I'm moving away from media sites like fb.
 

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