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Cloudy water won’t subside

What else might it be?
How long have the two 20G tanks been set up? Both cycled (I assume) using what method?

What kind of water test kit do you use?
 
The one in question was an inherited tank that was cycled before getting it. I’ve had jt up and running for 8 mos or so. The other tank is about 10 mos going. But the one that’s not cloudy only cycled maybe 4 mos ago.
I fish in cycled that one. I used Fritzyme 700 and it started to cycle but it crashed. So I then used dr. Tims one and only bacteria.

I have a 5g hospital tank that I cycled Fishless with liquid ammonia.

I use api master test.
 
Water changes don't affect bacterial blooms; the nitrogen cycle does....if in fact the OP is actually experiencing bacterial bloom in the first place
are you serious or trolling? because I can't tell...
water changes is what feeds the bacteria...it replenishes the nutrients/minerals in the water
while a water change might make it look better for a bit after a day it'll be just as bad or worst
not everything gets solved with water changes and bacterial blooms are the perfect example of it...
and they're not specific to cycling they can happen in cycled tanks because of overfeeding or introducing fish to a fishless tank
 
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are you serious or trolling? because I can't tell...
water changes is what feeds the bacteria...it replenishes the nutrients/minerals in the water
while a water change might make it look better for a bit after a day it'll be just as bad or worst
not everything gets solved with water changes and bacterial blooms are the perfect example of it...
and they're not specific to cycling they can happen in cycled tanks because of overfeeding or introducing fish to a fishless tank
Ammonia feeds beneficial bacteria, not fresh water...unless that water contains untreated ammonia

I don't troll
 
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The one in question was an inherited tank that was cycled before getting it. I’ve had jt up and running for 8 mos or so. The other tank is about 10 mos going. But the one that’s not cloudy only cycled maybe 4 mos ago.
I fish in cycled that one. I used Fritzyme 700 and it started to cycle but it crashed. So I then used dr. Tims one and only bacteria.

I have a 5g hospital tank that I cycled Fishless with liquid ammonia.

I use api master test.
You tested the inherited tank to ensure it was cycled?

What kind of media are you using in the cloudy tank(s) filters? Are you rinsing the media in old tank water (not tap water) during WC's?
 
You tested the inherited tank to ensure it was cycled?

What kind of media are you using in the cloudy tank(s) filters? Are you rinsing the media in old tank water (not tap water) during WC's?
Yes I have checked the media. I use ceramic rings, with sponge and filter floss.

My parameters are currently
ph-7.2
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 5

When cleaning anything it’s rinsed in old tank water.

I’m going to buy a UV sterilizer and give that a go.
 
51t-QibpJGL._AC_.jpg

This may be cheaper, I've heard people have got good results using it for cloudy water?

Your nitrates fluctuate a lot (5-40ppm mentioned) so there is an underlying issue that needs rectifying, possibly over-feeding and/or infrequent water changes?
 
Depending on parameters 25-50% water Change a week. I don’t overfeed. So I think it’s algae bloom. I have filter floss and I change that every few days bedauae it becomes GREEN
 
OK, for algae we need to look at the lighting - what is the intensity and duration? Does light from the windows shine on the tanks (perhaps explaining why you have 2 other tanks without this issue)?
 
Depending on parameters 25-50% water Change a week. I don’t overfeed. So I think it’s algae bloom. I have filter floss and I change that every few days bedauae it becomes GREEN

It is a misconception many have that test readings should determine water change volume/frequency. Not true. The W/C should be regular and the same volume (pretty much) each time. The object is to keep parameters the same, not respond to problems. Prevention not cure. Nitrates should not ever fluctuate but remain consistent for the time they are tested. What I mean is, if the nitrates today are say 5 ppm, and you do a water change after testing, then next week they should still be 5 ppm before the water change. If you have a super sensitive test that records individual digits, it may change a couple of digits. My API test was in colours of 5 ppm, so 0-5ppm, 5-10ppm, etc, and over more than a decade the tanks always remained in the 0-5 ppm range no matter when I tested.
 
I’ll show you my setup in pics.
I just added some chemicals to my other 20 so the water looks a little cloudy. But it’s normally Crystal clear or a slight tinge of tannins from the wood.

My cloudy tank is in a hallway. The others are in bedrooms. Light bar is on 5-6 hours a day max.
 

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It is a misconception many have that test readings should determine water change volume/frequency. Not true. The W/C should be regular and the same volume (pretty much) each time. The object is to keep parameters the same, not respond to problems. Prevention not cure. Nitrates should not ever fluctuate but remain consistent for the time they are tested. What I mean is, if the nitrates today are say 5 ppm, and you do a water change after testing, then next week they should still be 5 ppm before the water change. If you have a super sensitive test that records individual digits, it may change a couple of digits. My API test was in colours of 5 ppm, so 0-5ppm, 5-10ppm, etc, and over more than a decade the tanks always remained in the 0-5 ppm range no matter when I tested.
Yes so normally my nitrates are 5-10ish. Before a water change.
 
Which chemicals are you using and why? Additives can cause cloudy water (eg. iron) and are often detrimental to fish.


So is this a dimly lit or bright hall?
Ok so the ones that I added are not added to the cloudy one. And it was seachem nourish for the plants along with stress guard after a water change.

The cloudy tank is in a dimly lit hallway and I don’t add chemicals while trying to clear my problem.
 

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