JayLB
Fish Fanatic
What else might it be?Water changes don't affect bacterial blooms; the nitrogen cycle does....if in fact the OP is actually experiencing bacterial bloom in the first place
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What else might it be?Water changes don't affect bacterial blooms; the nitrogen cycle does....if in fact the OP is actually experiencing bacterial bloom in the first place
How long have the two 20G tanks been set up? Both cycled (I assume) using what method?What else might it be?
are you serious or trolling? because I can't tell...Water changes don't affect bacterial blooms; the nitrogen cycle does....if in fact the OP is actually experiencing bacterial bloom in the first place
Ammonia feeds beneficial bacteria, not fresh water...unless that water contains untreated ammoniaare you serious or trolling? because I can't tell...
water changes is what feeds the bacteria...it replenishes the nutrients/minerals in the water
while a water change might make it look better for a bit after a day it'll be just as bad or worst
not everything gets solved with water changes and bacterial blooms are the perfect example of it...
and they're not specific to cycling they can happen in cycled tanks because of overfeeding or introducing fish to a fishless tank
You tested the inherited tank to ensure it was cycled?The one in question was an inherited tank that was cycled before getting it. I’ve had jt up and running for 8 mos or so. The other tank is about 10 mos going. But the one that’s not cloudy only cycled maybe 4 mos ago.
I fish in cycled that one. I used Fritzyme 700 and it started to cycle but it crashed. So I then used dr. Tims one and only bacteria.
I have a 5g hospital tank that I cycled Fishless with liquid ammonia.
I use api master test.
Yes I have checked the media. I use ceramic rings, with sponge and filter floss.You tested the inherited tank to ensure it was cycled?
What kind of media are you using in the cloudy tank(s) filters? Are you rinsing the media in old tank water (not tap water) during WC's?
Depending on parameters 25-50% water Change a week. I don’t overfeed. So I think it’s algae bloom. I have filter floss and I change that every few days bedauae it becomes GREEN
Yes so normally my nitrates are 5-10ish. Before a water change.It is a misconception many have that test readings should determine water change volume/frequency. Not true. The W/C should be regular and the same volume (pretty much) each time. The object is to keep parameters the same, not respond to problems. Prevention not cure. Nitrates should not ever fluctuate but remain consistent for the time they are tested. What I mean is, if the nitrates today are say 5 ppm, and you do a water change after testing, then next week they should still be 5 ppm before the water change. If you have a super sensitive test that records individual digits, it may change a couple of digits. My API test was in colours of 5 ppm, so 0-5ppm, 5-10ppm, etc, and over more than a decade the tanks always remained in the 0-5 ppm range no matter when I tested.
Which chemicals are you using and why? Additives can cause cloudy water (eg. iron) and are often detrimental to fish.I just added some chemicals
So is this a dimly lit or bright hall?My cloudy tank is in a hallway.
Ok so the ones that I added are not added to the cloudy one. And it was seachem nourish for the plants along with stress guard after a water change.Which chemicals are you using and why? Additives can cause cloudy water (eg. iron) and are often detrimental to fish.
So is this a dimly lit or bright hall?