RikuzaYuzu
New Member
Hello,I was wondering if there are cheaper alternatives to water test kits,as i don't have that much money,like some homemade test kit or something.
Cheap Alternatives for Water Testing
- Thread starter RikuzaYuzu
- Start date
For pH and hardness, you could ask around at fish shops or other hobbyists in your area to see what the situation with your water is. Or maybe your water company could provide some info. It will be subject to some variance but will give you a pretty good idea and you can then choose species to suit. pH does tend to drop a bit due to the natural biological processes in the tank but unless your tap water is very soft then it should remain in the ballpark.
For water quality such as ammonia and nitrite, once you are fully cycled you shouldn't really have any issues barring being overstocked, adding too many fish too quick, overfeeding, equipment failure etc.
To save money and still give yourself some idea of what's going on, I'd say get some 6 in 1 test strips that typically give you readings for pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, KH, GH and Cl. These are pretty cheap and whilst they may not be as accurate as liquid tests, it will give you some idea. Many fish, particularly captive bred, are quite adaptable, so as long as you are in the ballpark with pH and hardness and are careful to acclimate the fish then you should be okay.
Being in malaysia, you may be lucky enough to be keeping fish that are native to your locality, in which case, unless the water company is doing something very odd with the water then you should be fine with that.
For Cl, pretty much any conditioner will do.
For nitrite you don't need to know the exact amount, you just need to know if there is some. Any amount of nitrite needs remedial action. The test strips should be okay for this.
For ammonia, I've got one of these. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000255R5G/?tag=
Again, you don't need to know the exact amount, just if there is any at all.
With the seachem alert for ammonia and some test strips you can have what you need to last you for a year for about USD15.
For water quality such as ammonia and nitrite, once you are fully cycled you shouldn't really have any issues barring being overstocked, adding too many fish too quick, overfeeding, equipment failure etc.
To save money and still give yourself some idea of what's going on, I'd say get some 6 in 1 test strips that typically give you readings for pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, KH, GH and Cl. These are pretty cheap and whilst they may not be as accurate as liquid tests, it will give you some idea. Many fish, particularly captive bred, are quite adaptable, so as long as you are in the ballpark with pH and hardness and are careful to acclimate the fish then you should be okay.
Being in malaysia, you may be lucky enough to be keeping fish that are native to your locality, in which case, unless the water company is doing something very odd with the water then you should be fine with that.
For Cl, pretty much any conditioner will do.
For nitrite you don't need to know the exact amount, you just need to know if there is some. Any amount of nitrite needs remedial action. The test strips should be okay for this.
For ammonia, I've got one of these. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000255R5G/?tag=
Again, you don't need to know the exact amount, just if there is any at all.
With the seachem alert for ammonia and some test strips you can have what you need to last you for a year for about USD15.
RikuzaYuzu
New Member
Thanks for the advice!
RikuzaYuzu
New Member
Oh,good idea! Never thought of that. But won't it affect it or anything? or completely harmless?
Lexiih36
New Member
Most stores offer free water testing.
My last test kit expired around 1992. Preventing the need is easy, but it involves work. I change 25-30% every week, I don't overstock the tank and I have live plants. I haven't had an identifiable ammonia issue in many years doing that. I know it goes against the grain and will upset people, but test kits are so limited in what they test you don't need them, once you get past the initial set up phase.
That said, when you would test, always do a water change. And you must have a routine to manage the tank - it can't be every few weeks.
That said, when you would test, always do a water change. And you must have a routine to manage the tank - it can't be every few weeks.
Lexiih36
New Member
They're also very limiting. According to the tests, my water is great, but that didn't stop 4 of my 6 Zebra Danios from kicking the bucket...nor did it offer any explanation for why.
I'm pretty sure it was shock from the temp and new water parameters cuz I messed up the transfer, but it goes to show that they only go so far.
Yes, experienced aquarists understand the importance of appropriate husbandry, negating the need for testing. And 100% agree on regular substantial water changes, without exception.
But you are underestimating your fish knowledge when you say that tests are not needed past the initial set up. New fish keepers learn how to clean the tank and filter safely, what is normal for their fish health and behaviour, they learn ways to prevent illnesses, they learn about water chemistry and management, ideally they will learn about their species in terms of parameters, growth, habitat, social and breeding interaction etc etc. This steep learning curve means that someone who has set up a tank would not have an understanding of a tank with an ammonia spike/ pH drop/ chlorine poisoning just by observing the fish. It would take longer to understand these issues. Some will take longer than others, depending on their passion and aptitude for the hobby. And some aspects like the differing behaviour and condition of juvenile or geriatric specimens will take that fish's lifetime to grasp. So I would advise testing, albeit with reducing frequency as confidence grows, for a year or more.
It's also useful to test if you move house or to understand seasonal changes (or unprecedented weather patterns and natural disasters) effecting the parameters or if the supplier changes your water source for any reason, so that you know to adjust management practices accordingly BEFORE a problem manifests.
Which bit, the strips? No the readings are just as good with half a strip pad. You just need a steady hand to cut them in half.
Oblio
Fish Herder
This is the reason why I am testing, plus I enjoy collecting the data to see how parameters change. Specifically, the introduction of Pothos WRT nitrate reduction. Eventually the 'need' to test will become much less, but I may as well use the reagents before they expire.
It is just as easy for a new aquarist to start doing regular water changes as it is to learn to play with a reagent kit. It isn't rocket science. I know test kits are fun, and it's cool to watch changes. That is the goal. But if you take the API "Master" kit, it doesn't even look at the all important question of hardness.
I got a dog. I feed her twice a day, walk her and make periodic vet visits. She's my first dog since I was a kid, and she's an older rescue, which has not always been the easiest to figure out. There is an easy to learn routine that lets me enjoy her company, and when 'extra' things come up, I learn how to deal with them. Tanks are no different.
You'll note I said "once you get past the initial set up". Kits will tell you if the tank is cycled, but once it is, as long as you manage your filters and water changes, the test kit can gather dust. At the price charged for it, I am not convinced it is even close to essential.
Chloramine poisoning is not connected to test kits - that is water conditioning. If you have chloramines, that is a must.
Water companies changing sources? It isn't something I've ever seen with regularity. I did see it once, with a lot of publicity around it. And your average test kit won't help there. The info you need is in specialized kits. I had to go out and buy a hardness testing kit to supplement my last API kit.
I moved a couple of weeks ago, and the info I needed came with checking the city water supplier online, and buying an inexpensive tds pen to confirm. I don't even have High School chemistry to fall back on, but any reasonably on the ball person can figure these things out.
I think we can adopt good practices with or without test kits. I'd argue that the new aquarist who won't do this won't be affected by the test kit lessons anyway. It has become an oft repeated 'truth', like saying test strips are inaccurate. It's good marketing at work, but I borrowed an API kit to compare with strips before I took strips out to test water in the wild, and got the same readings every time. The test strips just cost more, although they gave me more useful info in a compact format. if I blindly accepted what I read on forums, I would have spent half my fishing time shaking vials and trying to read colours.
Test kits are fun, and readings are satisfying. Well, they're fun when they show good results. They are a part of the hobby, and many profit from using them. But an essential? Nope.
I hardly ever test anything. If your fish are swimming around Dorsal fins up, they are happy don't test.
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