Bottled bacteria

[Anna94]

I've heard of Dr. Tim's One and Only and that it is better than Stability. I've even heard that it's better than any other bottled bacteria. Is this true? Does it really help boost the filter's biomedia and beneficial bacteria? I use Stability, but either it's not working or something is wrong with my biomedia or test kit as my ammonia always shows as .25 or .50. So I thought I would try Dr. Tim's One and Only since a lot of hobbyists like it and have had good results from it.

 

[Byron]

Dr. Tim's One and Only is the best bacterial supplement. If you follow the directions, it will cycle the aquarium (no fish in the tank, just to be clear, as you add pure ammonia). I have never used this myself, as I cannot get it locally, plus I use live plants.

Tetra's SafeStart is also a good product; this was Dr. Tim Hovanec's initial formula. It speeds up the cycling process. If fish are present, this is the better product. Not that I am suggesting you do a cycle with fish, but if you have fish in the tank, this product will help. I suppose Dr. Tim's One and Only would too, provided you do not add ammonia.

I have used Stability, a couple times, in emergencies (medication killed the bacteria, and this was the only bacteria supplement product I could get immediately). It does not have the Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira bacteria (the ones responsible for the nitrogen cycle), but it has in my experience helped by quickening the process.

Byron.

 

[Anna94]

For some reason my beneficial bacteria and biomedia aren't working because every time I test my water my ammonia is always .25 or .50 and yes, I tested my tap water and everything is 0. I'm going to take a sample of my tank water to my lfs and PetSmart to rule out if my test kit is giving me a false ammonia reading. Meanwhile, I've been using Stability off and on; I was being faithful one week and dosing it every day, but it obviously isn't helping. Should I stop using it and use one of the other bottled bacterias?

 

[cowgirluntamed]

What is your tank setup? Size, kinds and numbers of fish, live plants, water change schedule, type of filter and biomedia, and the like. This could have an impact.

 

[Aquatony]

I had this issue, and in fact, continue to have this issue, despite my fish showing no signs of distress or ill health.

Byron has explained this to me as the difference between ammonia and ammonium, one being detrimental to fish, one not, but both being detectable by commercially available test methods (like API kits). In MY case, it's because my tank has SUCH soft water with such low GH and KH that the ammonium stays in elemental form and is not in the form which can hurt the fish. At least, as I understand it, from Byron explaining it to me long ago.

If you have extremely soft water this may explain why, in a tank, you show mild amounts of ammonia on the test kit but the fish are doing O.K.

Just an idea.

As for the initial question I use Fluval Cycle, it seems to work very well.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Ammonia is toxic to fish.
Ammonium is much much less so.

The free ammonia (NH3) is the greater danger to the fish. The ammonium (NH4) ion isn't as dangerous at all.

The amount of ammonia can be calculated using this link. https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.php
The ratio of ammonia to ammonium is related to temp, pH and salinity. Higher pH has more ammonia than lower pH.

The API test kit tests for the total ammonia AND ammonium present.

 

[Byron]

My previous post simply answered your question about bacterial supplements. Nothing was said about the water parameters (GH, KH, pH, temperature), if fish were present, if this is a new tank, or whatever. Are you adding ammonia in some form to cycle? What is the pH? Are fish present?

 

[Anna94]

My previous post simply answered your question about bacterial supplements. Nothing was said about the water parameters (GH, KH, pH, temperature), if fish were present, if this is a new tank, or whatever. Are you adding ammonia in some form to cycle? What is the pH? Are fish present?

My ph is 8.0. I have 12 fish (5 cardinal tetras, lemon tetras, Celebes rainbows, a horseface loach, and an oto).

 

[Anna94]

Ammonia is toxic to fish.
Ammonium is much much less so.

The free ammonia (NH3) is the greater danger to the fish. The ammonium (NH4) ion isn't as dangerous at all.

The amount of ammonia can be calculated using this link. https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.php
The ratio of ammonia to ammonium is related to temp, pH and salinity. Higher pH has more ammonia than lower pH.

The API test kit tests for the total ammonia AND ammonium present.

My ph is 8.0

 

[Anna94]

I had this issue, and in fact, continue to have this issue, despite my fish showing no signs of distress or ill health.

Byron has explained this to me as the difference between ammonia and ammonium, one being detrimental to fish, one not, but both being detectable by commercially available test methods (like API kits). In MY case, it's because my tank has SUCH soft water with such low GH and KH that the ammonium stays in elemental form and is not in the form which can hurt the fish. At least, as I understand it, from Byron explaining it to me long ago.

If you have extremely soft water this may explain why, in a tank, you show mild amounts of ammonia on the test kit but the fish are doing O.K.

Just an idea.

As for the initial question I use Fluval Cycle, it seems to work very well.

How do I test if my water is hard or soft?

 

[Anna94]

What is your tank setup? Size, kinds and numbers of fish, live plants, water change schedule, type of filter and biomedia, and the like. This could have an impact.

I have 12 fish (5 cardinal tetras, lemon tetras, Celebes rainbows, a horseface loach, and an oto). My tank is a 29 gallon tall and I have a sponge filter rated up to 40 gallons and a Fluval C3 with Matrix as my biomedia from my old filter. I have no live plants and I do weekly 40% water changes and I gravel vac during every water change.

 

[Byron]

This seems to be an existing aquarium, meaning, not a new set-up, so it should be cycled. Correct my assumption if incorrect, but if not...is there a reason you are adding a bacterial supplement?

On the GH and KH, you should be able to ascertain these from the water authority if you are on municipal water (as opposed to a private well). Check their website. If you can't decipher the data, post the link and one of us can have a look. Sometimes this information can be tricky to dig out of the data. But if it has general hardness or total hardness, or GH, that is the number you want (along with the unit of measurement as there are several). KH is carbonate hardness or Alkalinity. Fish are primarily affected by GH (some fish have preferences, to some degree) and this is what we mean by hard water or soft water or moderately somewhere.

The Horseface Loach...you do realize this fish will get large, up to 8 inches. Generally peaceful. Although a shoaling species, preferring five-plus, there are several reliable sources that allow one single specimen, so I wouldn't fuss over that. Don't get more though, as in small numbers the hierarchical interaction may get a bit rough. This fish does need a soft sand substrate though; it will bury itslef a lot, more as it matures, and it sifts the sand through its gills, much like cories.

Celebes rainbowfish...you don't mention the number, so I'll mention that this fish is better in a small group of 6 to 8 minimum, with 2-3 females per male. The males will be at their most colourful with a group.

Byron.