Black Hair Algae and Unknown

[IR_Crayoneater]

So I have been having this issues going on for about 2-3 months now. It started out as just little hairs on some of my plants and now it has spread throughout my whole tank. I believe its black hair algae but I could be wrong and I havent been able to identify what is on the spiderwood. It started in my 30gal tank and then in July I upgraded that tank to a 55 and added some more plants and that Monte Carlo you see that looks half dead across the bottom of the tank (still trying to get the needs for it hashed out).

The first 4 pictures are taken from left, middle-left, middle-right and right side of my tank to show its throughout the whole tank. The spiderwood in the 5th picture has a grayish/white hair algae growing on it pretty significantly.

DETAILS: I do a 20% water change every week along with a 2.5 gal addition (from evaporation), I use 2mL of Prime in each 5 gal bucket during water changes. I have an aqua clear 70 and 55 filter set up on the tank. The 70 has sponge, amino-carb, bio filter, 1/4 cuttlefish bone and small bag of crushed coral. The 55 has sponge, carbon and bio filter. 1 12" airstone. I dose with API quickstart every 2 weeks, Flourish & excel every 3 days and aquarium 1.5 Tablespoons of aquarium salt once I hit 90% of the water changed. I change the crushed coral once a month also. I feed flake food, 1 algae disk and 5 sinking pellets every other day, on the opposite day its flake food, either a blood warm or Brine cube, 1 algae disk. Oh, and API root tabs is something new I have done in the last month, 5 tabs every 2 weeks spread throughout the tank.

INHABITANTS: 1 Clown Pleco, 2 Platies, 3 Corys, 3 Clown Loaches, 2 Mystery Snails, 2 Fiddler Crabs and usually 2 Mollies BUT at the moment 6 Mollies because one just gave birth and they are not big enough to rehome yet. Ghost Shrimp I dont count because they get eaten within 2-3 weeks of placing in the tank, mainly just a food source. Yes I know the tank is overstocked.

PLANTS: If I remember correctly, the driftwood is Malaysian, Spider and some piece I got from Vietnam that I cant remember the name of for the life of me. I have Java Moss, Monte Carlo, Hornwort, Amazon Sword, Anubias etc.

PARAMETERS: PH- Steady between 7.6-7.8, Ammonia-0, Nitrite-0, Nitrate-Steady between 0-15 ppm, GH&KH-110-125ppm ( I know this is soft my tapwater is extremely soft thats why the coral is in the tank) Temperature- between 80-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

LIGHTING: I have a timed Blue, RGB, LED Aqueon 55" light. The blue light turns on 10AM and turns off 12 PM, RGB and LED turns on at noon and shuts off at 10pm.

WHAT I HAVE DONE: I read about CO2 levels could be cause so I started dosing with Excel, 2 weeks ago I removed the spider wood with the white stuff on it and dipped it in 3 gallons of water with 3 tablespoons of 3% Peroxide in it. 5 Dips, 10 seconds each. It seemed to work for a few days then the stuff grew back. I have removed the spiderwood numerous times and scraped it then hosed it off outside the tank. My tank use to be full of plants, but as you can see I have murdered them from trimming off any part with the algae on it to the point where I think I may have killed some of them. I have cleaned my filters out thoroughly, clean the glass every 2 days with pads. I have thought of doing a total blackout on the tank for 24 hours because part of me believes excess lighting could be the issue. The tank sits at a 45 degree angle from a window that has sunlight coming through it when it sets. I doubt this matters because of the type of light, but it also sits adjacent to the TV in the living room approx 13-14 feet away that is usually on till midnight. The living room light is shut off typically at 8PM when my wife sits down because she is apparently nocturnal with night vision.

 

[Byron]

The whitish stuff on the wood is not algae, it is fungus. Most (fortunately) is safe, but some species are highly toxic to fish. You can't tell which without an examination by a qualified microbiologist. But just be aware...and spiderwood I am told is more common for this. If the fish show no signs of lethargy or increased respiration, the fungus may not be toxic, but just a guess.

The dark fuzz is black brush algae, it has a few forms. It is caused by an imbalance of light and nutrients, and the only way to get it under control is by re-establishing (or establishing) the balance. Light sufficient intensity for the plants species, and of proper spectrum, the its duration to balance the nutrients coming from fish feeding, water changes, plant additives if any.

Light also must factor in room light, sunlight or daylight, and the length this is present. A few years ago I had this algae increase every summer until I figured out it was the additional length and intensity of diffused daylight; blacking out the windows solved the algae problem, as the tank light itself was already balanced.

The light is certainly on too long, I would reduce it back to 7 or 8 hours of the brightest; the lower light/blue will actually encourage algae more, so eliminate that or keep it minimal. Algae takes advantage of everything the plants cannot use.

Do not use Excel, it is a highly toxic disinfectant (glutaraldehyde) and will kill some plants at recommended dosage, but if overdosed could kill all plants, fish and bacteria. It is used in embalming fluid and ship ballasts to kill bacteria. Enough said.

Do not use salt in any freshwater aquarium, except to treat a specific disease. Salt is harmful to all freshwater fish, I have an article explaining this here:

Salt FW Aq Art Hosking

Floating plants will help.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

The whitish stuff on the wood is not algae, it is fungus. Most (fortunately) is safe, but some species are highly toxic to fish. You can't tell which without an examination by a qualified microbiologist. But just be aware...and spiderwood I am told is more common for this. If the fish show no signs of lethargy or increased respiration, the fungus may not be toxic, but just a guess.

The dark fuzz is black brush algae, it has a few forms. It is caused by an imbalance of light and nutrients, and the only way to get it under control is by re-establishing (or establishing) the balance. Light sufficient intensity for the plants species, and of proper spectrum, the its duration to balance the nutrients coming from fish feeding, water changes, plant additives if any.

Light also must factor in room light, sunlight or daylight, and the length this is present. A few years ago I had this algae increase every summer until I figured out it was the additional length and intensity of diffused daylight; blacking out the windows solved the algae problem, as the tank light itself was already balanced.

The light is certainly on too long, I would reduce it back to 7 or 8 hours of the brightest; the lower light/blue will actually encourage algae more, so eliminate that or keep it minimal. Algae takes advantage of everything the plants cannot use.

Do not use Excel, it is a highly toxic disinfectant (glutaraldehyde) and will kill some plants at recommended dosage, but if overdosed could kill all plants, fish and bacteria. It is used in embalming fluid and ship ballasts to kill bacteria. Enough said.

Do not use salt in any freshwater aquarium, except to treat a specific disease. Salt is harmful to all freshwater fish, I have an article explaining this here:

Salt FW Aq Art Hosking

Floating plants will help.

It must be the excess light as you said because I the way I do everything has been the same since January when I set the 30gal tank up (which is where the algae started) literal only difference being is the change of season and the excel (which I started after the algae showed up). The fungus has been around about as long as the algae and have had no fish loss thank God. They act no different than normal, im going to increase the peroxide in the dip and see if that kills it.

Would setting up CO2 injections help any ? From what I have read, it could be caused from a CO2 deficiency and I think that's part of the problem I'm having with the monte carlo I just planted a few weeks ago. I am going to eliminate the blue light entirely for a few days and ill cut the LED from noon to 10pm to 2pm-10pm. I read putting peroxide directly into the tank could help and then doing a 75% water change, increasing flow and removing filter media.

 

[Byron]

It must be the excess light as you said because I the way I do everything has been the same since January when I set the 30gal tank up (which is where the algae started) literal only difference being is the change of season and the excel (which I started after the algae showed up). The fungus has been around about as long as the algae and have had no fish loss thank God. They act no different than normal, im going to increase the peroxide in the dip and see if that kills it.

Would setting up CO2 injections help any ? From what I have read, it could be caused from a CO2 deficiency and I think that's part of the problem I'm having with the monte carlo I just planted a few weeks ago. I am going to eliminate the blue light entirely for a few days and ill cut the LED from noon to 10pm to 2pm-10pm. I read putting peroxide directly into the tank could help and then doing a 75% water change, increasing flow and removing filter media.

CO2 will not help. Reason being that there are not enough plants here (from the photos) to really use all the natural CO2 (though with the long light period this is being exhausted but this is only one factor). And when that is the case, adding CO2 is only going to provide yet more nutrients for algae. Some plants do not do well with less light and nutrients, including CO2, but this is not the way to approach this.

I don't see plant additives (aside from the Excel) mentioned, and with all that light you can be certain there are insufficient nutrients. Once the light is reduced, a comprehensive fertilizer might be advisable, but adding one at this point is only going to fuel the algae.

Your last sentence is one of the problems with this hobby...anyone can post nonsense on YouTube or wherever. Water changes do help, that part is true, but only if this is regular. Cleaning filter media is also important, as the brown gunk therein is organics. Increasing flow is rubbish. In my tanks, even though the plants are free of this algae and have been for five years now, it is present at the filter return where the flow is strongest. But even if not, water flow really has nothing to do with this. I suspect it evolved from the gentle flow of water carrying nutrients to plant leaves or something.

As for hydrogen peroxide...this too is seriously dangerous if fish are present. This excerpt from a study of disease treatments:

Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer that has been used under field conditions to control I. multifiliis. High doses can cause gill damage leading to fish mortality (especially at high temperatures) (Schmidt et al. 2006; Noga, 2010).​

 

[seangee]

Would setting up CO2 injections help any ? From what I have read, it could be caused from a CO2 deficiency and I think that's part of the problem I'm having with the monte carlo I just planted a few weeks ago. I am going to eliminate the blue light entirely for a few days and ill cut the LED from noon to 10pm to 2pm-10pm. I read putting peroxide directly into the tank could help and then doing a 75% water change, increasing flow and removing filter media.

CO2 is unlikely to help. The cause can just as easily be too much CO2 - as @Byron points out any imbalance (too much or too little) can trigger BBA. Start with the light and change one thing at a time so you know what made the difference. Carpeting plants do often cause a challenge because of their high light requirements - and most of your other plants don't need much light (nice tank BTW). You may want to try liquid fertiliser such as Seacham flourish comprehensive (not exel), start at half the recommended dosage. Just seen @Byron's comment re peroxide so won't repeat that.

As an unrelated side note your pleco, cories and loaches thrive in soft water so adding cuttlefish bone and coral will reduce their lifespan. OTOH the platies and mollies require very hard water and at the levels you quote are likely to be sickly and short lived. My suggestion is to choose if you want to keep hard or soft water fish and give them the appropriate water conditions. If your tap water is soft (my assumption as you are adding these to increase hardness) it makes for a much easier life if you choose to keep soft water fish. It isn't really possible to create a healthy environment for your combination.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

CO2 will not help. Reason being that there are not enough plants here (from the photos) to really use all the natural CO2 (though with the long light period this is being exhausted but this is only one factor). And when that is the case, adding CO2 is only going to provide yet more nutrients for algae. Some plants do not do well with less light and nutrients, including CO2, but this is not the way to approach this.

I don't see plant additives (aside from the Excel) mentioned, and with all that light you can be certain there are insufficient nutrients. Once the light is reduced, a comprehensive fertilizer might be advisable, but adding one at this point is only going to fuel the algae.

Your last sentence is one of the problems with this hobby...anyone can post nonsense on YouTube or wherever. Water changes do help, that part is true, but only if this is regular. Cleaning filter media is also important, as the brown gunk therein is organics. Increasing flow is rubbish. In my tanks, even though the plants are free of this algae and have been for five years now, it is present at the filter return where the flow is strongest. But even if not, water flow really has nothing to do with this. I suspect it evolved from the gentle flow of water carrying nutrients to plant leaves or something.

As for hydrogen peroxide...this tyoo is seriously dangerous if fish are present. This excerpt from a study of disease treatments:

Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer that has been used under field conditions to control I. multifiliis. High doses can cause gill damage leading to fish mortality (especially at high temperatures) (Schmidt et al. 2006; Noga, 2010).​

I use Flourish Excel, API Root Tabs and Flourish in the tank now. Root Tabs every 2 weeks (just started this a month ago) and the Flourish & Flourish Excel every 3 days. The substrate I use had fertilizer in it also I stir up every few weeks.

Only meant increasing flow if I dosed the tank with peroxide to try and treat the algae. I pulled that method from a hatchery website I was reading on. It said to remove filter media then dose with 3% peroxide solution, increase flow, wait 15 minutes, then do an immediate 75% change.

I cut back the light time like you said on the timer, I may go dark for 24 hours or at least 12 hours of no ambient light at all if you think that would help. Honestly, the light is the only thing up to the point the algae started growing, that changed approx early/mid June. The plants were growing extremely well and filled the tank, then I mutilated them trying to cut them all down to get rid of the algae, they are starting to recover a little.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

CO2 is unlikely to help. The cause can just as easily be too much CO2 - as @Byron points out any imbalance (too much or too little) can trigger BBA. Start with the light and change one thing at a time so you know what made the difference. Carpeting plants do often cause a challenge because of their high light requirements - and most of your other plants don't need much light (nice tank BTW). You may want to try liquid fertiliser such as Seacham flourish comprehensive (not exel), start at half the recommended dosage. Just seen @Byron's comment re peroxide so won't repeat that.

As an unrelated side note your pleco, cories and loaches thrive in soft water so adding cuttlefish bone and coral will reduce their lifespan. OTOH the platies and mollies require very hard water and at the levels you quote are likely to be sickly and short lived. My suggestion is to choose if you want to keep hard or soft water fish and give them the appropriate water conditions. If your tap water is soft (my assumption as you are adding these to increase hardness) it makes for a much easier life if you choose to keep soft water fish. It isn't really possible to create a healthy environment for your combination.

Is there a way to measure the CO2 content in the tank ? I do use normal flourish, the excel was a recent addition in the last month along with root tabs. The cuttlefish bone is mainly for the calcium for the snails and crabs, the coral is because my tap water is stupidly soft (its taken me months to raise it to where its at now) and the PH varies constantly in it (in my tapwater not my tank). The mollies were the first addition to the tank and were not doing well, started the coral and they recovered and the one has given birth twice now (4 each time and only ever lost 1 when I upgraded tanks) . The corys, loaches and mollies are the most active in the tank and *knock on wood* I haven't had any issues with them. I try to even out parameters where they are not perfect for just one type but as close as I can for the group as a whole, its a pain in the ass. I do plan on setting up another tank and moving the mollies and platys into it.

Ill send you a PM on this topic after I test the hardness again (because its been about a week since I have checked it, got busy with work, school and coaching).

 

[Byron]

I use Flourish Excel, API Root Tabs and Flourish in the tank now. Root Tabs every 2 weeks (just started this a month ago) and the Flourish & Flourish Excel every 3 days. The substrate I use had fertilizer in it also I stir up every few weeks.

Only meant increasing flow if I dosed the tank with peroxide to try and treat the algae. I pulled that method from a hatchery website I was reading on. It said to remove filter media then dose with 3% peroxide solution, increase flow, wait 15 minutes, then do an immediate 75% change.

I cut back the light time like you said on the timer, I may go dark for 24 hours or at least 12 hours of no ambient light at all if you think that would help. Honestly, the light is the only thing up to the point the algae started growing, that changed approx early/mid June. The plants were growing extremely well and filled the tank, then I mutilated them trying to cut them all down to get rid of the algae, they are starting to recover a little.

A "blackout" is not going to help long-term; it might (over a few days) stop the algae from increasing, but this will also harm the plants. But more to the point, when the light is restored, if the balance hasn't been re-established, it will just get worse again.

The Flourish I will take to be Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium. But three times a week--are you dividing the recommended dose into three, or actually dosing the full dose three times? I twice had black brush algae become problematical again when I doubled the dose of Flourish Comp, and both times when I stopped this the algae stopped increasing. That taught me that the balance of light/nutrients was OK with one dose, but not two each week. Dividing the dose into two and dosing on separate days is different.

The API root tabs, do they say every two weeks? The Flourish Tabs seem to be better, according to several who have tried both, and I know I have been using the FT for ten years now and they do make an incredible difference with large plants like swords. Even with my zero GH water, I can keep swords growing fairly well with just the tabs. I also use the FC liquid now, minimally. I replace the tab every 3 months, and use one next to each of the large swords.

 

[Byron]

Is there a way to measure the CO2 content in the tank ? I do use normal flourish, the excel was a recent addition in the last month along with root tabs. The cuttlefish bone is mainly for the calcium for the snails and crabs, the coral is because my tap water is stupidly soft (its taken me months to raise it to where its at now) and the PH varies constantly in it (in my tapwater not my tank). The mollies were the first addition to the tank and were not doing well, started the coral and they recovered and the one has given birth twice now (4 each time and only ever lost 1 when I upgraded tanks) . The corys, loaches and mollies are the most active in the tank and *knock on wood* I haven't had any issues with them. I try to even out parameters where they are not perfect for just one type but as close as I can for the group as a whole, its a pain in the ass. I do plan on setting up another tank and moving the mollies and platys into it.

Ill send you a PM on this topic after I test the hardness again (because its been about a week since I have checked it, got busy with work, school and coaching).

I'm not trying to butt in here, but I agree with what @seangee posted on the water parameters/fish species, and the plant/algae issue. I had a CO2 test back in the 1990's I think, it didn't tell me anything, not sure what value it may have been. That was at a time when CO2 along with substrate heating cables were being suggested as the latest discovery for plants. There is a lot of CO2 in most fish tanks. Not only from the respiration of fish, plants and many bacteria species, but even more from the decomposition of organics in the substrate. This will build up at night, so you need some (but not excessive) surface disturbance. Then when the tank light comes on, the plants will use the CO2 to photoosynthesize. I know this is all old news, but my point is, that there is probably more CO2 available than some realize. Certainly enough for a natural or low-tech method planted tank. Provided of course the "day" period doesn't last longer than the CO2. I got my tanks down to seven hours of light each 24-hour period and as I mentioned previously I have had no problem algae for five years now.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

A "blackout" is not going to help long-term; it might (over a few days) stop the algae from increasing, but this will also harm the plants. But more to the point, when the light is restored, if the balance hasn't been re-established, it will just get worse again.

The Flourish I will take to be Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium. But three times a week--are you dividing the recommended dose into three, or actually dosing the full dose three times? I twice had black brush algae become problematical again when I doubled the dose of Flourish Comp, and both times when I stopped this the algae stopped increasing. That taught me that the balance of light/nutrients was OK with one dose, but not two each week. Dividing the dose into two and dosing on separate days is different.

The API root tabs, do they say every two weeks? The Flourish Tabs seem to be better, according to several who have tried both, and I know I have been using the FT for ten years now and they do make an incredible difference with large plants like swords. Even with my zero GH water, I can keep swords growing fairly well with just the tabs. I also use the FC liquid now, minimally. I replace the tab every 3 months, and use one next to each of the large swords.

The flourish I use is SeaChem Flourish, it says 5ml per 60 gal, twice a week. Which is what I have been doing, 5ml every 3 days, I can cut that back to 1 day PER WEEK, after I cut down on the lighting and see if that was the issue. The tabs I had said every 2 weeks, but I had the algae issue long before I started using them, I wanted to use the Flourish tabs but none of my local stores had them at the time so I got API.

I cut the lighting down, so I am going to give it a week and see what that does, then cut down on the Flourish to once a week and give it 2 weeks and see what that does.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

I'm not trying to butt in here, but I agree with what @seangee posted on the water parameters/fish species, and the plant/algae issue. I had a CO2 test back in the 1990's I think, it didn't tell me anything, not sure what value it may have been. That was at a time when CO2 along with substrate heating cables were being suggested as the latest discovery for plants. There is a lot of CO2 in most fish tanks. Not only from the respiration of fish, plants and many bacteria species, but even more from the decomposition of organics in the substrate. This will build up at night, so you need some (but not excessive) surface disturbance. Then when the tank light comes on, the plants will use the CO2 to photoosynthesize. I know this is all old news, but my point is, that there is probably more CO2 available than some realize. Certainly enough for a natural or low-tech method planted tank. Provided of course the "day" period doesn't last longer than the CO2. I got my tanks down to seven hours of light each 24-hour period and as I mentioned previously I have had no problem algae for five years now.

I have been wondering about the CO2 for awhile after reading from multiple sources (hatcheries, scientific articles etc no youtube videos of "billy the fishkeeper") because they talked about it promoting plant growth and burning/killing algae. I never really acted nor concerned myself on it till I got this Monte Carlo for carpeting and the algae getting out of control. I typically try to avoid youtube because I want to see a degree or 15+ years of experience backing up what you are talking about, I try to research my issues or expand my knowledge off a general consensus from the forums or scientific articles. My local store is reliable sometimes but at the end of the day they are still a small business and need to make money and telling me something will work when it wont so they can sell me something more expensive that will is kind of the way to make money lol

 

[StevenF]

In my opinion CO2is often an overhyped suggested solution to plant growth issues. In my experience nutrient deficiencies are most often the issue. If you exclude light CO@ and waterblants stillness Nitrogen, Potassium,Calcium, magnesium, Phosphorous, sulfur , Iron, manganese boron, zinc, copper molybdenum, and nickel. If just one nutrient is not available plant growth will be very slow or the pants will not grow at all.

A good fertilizer would provide these nutrients but many don't have all of these nutrients. However I Cannot recommend API fertilizers. Their root tabs only contain nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and iron. Their liquid fertilizer only has potassium and iron. The root taps only contain 4 of 10 nutrients needed. Byron has has gotten good results with Seachem root tabs which have almost all of the nutrients I have listed above. The missing ones are likely already pressent in your tap water.

As byron has stated earlier Excel is not a good replacement for CO2. It is toxic to Anacharis which is in your aquarium. Anacharis grows really fast when all nutrients are pressent. I never saw any benefits of excel in my aquarium. For now I wouldn't worry about CO2. If is very difficult to measure CO2 dissolved in water nd many of the methods peoples to monitor CO2 are very inaccurate at best. Air has 400 parts per million (PPM) of CO2 in it. A well aerated aquarium should be close to that level. Biologist have determined that terrestrial plants need a minimum of 200PPM to grow.

 

[Brighton Fan]

You can dip wood/rocks in very hot water for a few seconds. Kills algae instantly. I much prefer this method above anything else. It will kill plants if attached.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

In my opinion CO2is often an overhyped suggested solution to plant growth issues. In my experience nutrient deficiencies are most often the issue. If you exclude light CO@ and waterblants stillness Nitrogen, Potassium,Calcium, magnesium, Phosphorous, sulfur , Iron, manganese boron, zinc, copper molybdenum, and nickel. If just one nutrient is not available plant growth will be very slow or the pants will not grow at all.

A good fertilizer would provide these nutrients but many don't have all of these nutrients. However I Cannot recommend API fertilizers. Their root tabs only contain nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and iron. Their liquid fertilizer only has potassium and iron. The root taps only contain 4 of 10 nutrients needed. Byron has has gotten good results with Seachem root tabs which have almost all of the nutrients I have listed above. The missing ones are likely already pressent in your tap water.

As byron has stated earlier Excel is not a good replacement for CO2. It is toxic to Anacharis which is in your aquarium. Anacharis grows really fast when all nutrients are pressent. I never saw any benefits of excel in my aquarium. For now I wouldn't worry about CO2. If is very difficult to measure CO2 dissolved in water nd many of the methods peoples to monitor CO2 are very inaccurate at best. Air has 400 parts per million (PPM) of CO2 in it. A well aerated aquarium should be close to that level. Biologist have determined that terrestrial plants need a minimum of 200PPM to grow.

I just went out today and picked up a Phosphate, Calcium and Copper test kit to check all those in the tank. Our tap water is really bad around here, I know of a lot of people who go to our local fish store to get water from them because of it. I did pick up Seachem root tabs today also, killed the light back to 8 hours, killed the blue light entirely. Hopefully this takes care of the Algae issue I have going on and then I can focus on helping the plants recover.

 

[IR_Crayoneater]

You can dip wood/rocks in very hot water for a few seconds. Kills algae instantly. I much prefer this method above anything else. It will kill plants if attached.

See when I did the peroxide dip, I used water hot enough I could barely stand to put my hand in it, I was afraid of going hotter and killing the plant. Afterwards, I scraped the crap out of the whole spider wood piece, trimmed off any roots that had it on it, rinsed it real well and stuck it back in the tank. Within a week that fungus was back on the wood and the plant connected to it had the algae growing on it again. If you think the plant can withstand hotter water, I will toss some on the stove and get it right below boiling and dip it in there again, without peroxide after everyones recommendations.