Betta male with injured gill

[J CZA]

hes now in the clean conditioned bowl with wrap and air holes. theirs like 3 inches in there. i hate seeing him like this. its there anything i can do.... he might had dropsy from the injury and the gill is releasing air. do any of you think tat that can be fixed? i can go to the store and get anything. leaves meds and water tests. i have a 3 gal tank i can set up as a rehab tank if he needs. hes acting fine but i need to do something. I don't know if only clean water can fix this. i can take decor out of his tank if it will further damage him. there isn't any vet or anything i could bring him, i know its kinda crazy but id do anything.

 

[J CZA]

Betta can breath from the surface as well as through their gills. They get air from the surface and their labyrinth organ allows them to absorb the oxygen into their bodies. Can we get a closer picture of his injury? I will need you to answer a few questions, it is very important that you do so before we can provide any immediate instructions. For right now I suggest another immediate 50% water change of conditioned water. Make sure the water has been treated with water conditioner and is as close to the tank temperature as possible. Pour the water in gently to prevent your betta any undo stress. Make sure you DO NOT USE anything with -afix (melafix, bettafix etc) to treat his injury. The ingredients in these medicines are known to damage a betta's labyrinth organ and making it even more difficult for him to breath with a gill injury is not what we want. Do not medicate with anything until we can be sure of how to help you. Randomly tossing in medicine in a panic can do more harm than good. Right now you need to keep your betta as calm and stress free as possible so his condition does not worse. Lot's of clean, warm water and gentle water flow and no dangerous decor or tank mates will achieve this.


First thing is first, what is you Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, Ph, and alkalinity? Since you don't have a test kit you will need to go to a local pet store that offers free water testing. Take a sample of your tank water and have them test it, make sure to get accurate numbers, write them down, and get back to us.
How long have you had the tank?
Is it cycled?
How often do you clean the tank?
Do you siphon the gravel when you clean?
How often and in what quantities do you feed your betta?
Is the flow from your filter strong? Does he struggle to swim near the surface because of it?
Do you have any sharp, rough, or pokey decor in your tank? Shark edges and points are especially dangerous to betta as their delicate fins get caught on things easily. This, combined with a strong current, can cause him to sustain an injury on the decor.
Does he have any tank mates or is he alone?
Have you made any recent changes to the tank like additions of fish, plants, decor, etc?
Can you describe his injury in more detail? It is inflamed or swollen? Is there any discoloration like white tufts (fungus) or pale scales around the wound? If you could provide a close up picture of the injury that would be great.

i had him for 4 months and the tank for 2.
i try to do a 2320 to 30% clean every week with cleaning the gravel
the there is plastic decor that could poke him
the flow of the filter is slow and he can stay still in the tank without being moved
there is a nerite snail and thats all
i removed a few decor a week ago
hes gill looks pushed out, he breaths rapidly and the scaled might be pineconeing

 

[Colin_T]

Do not add anything else to his water. Just let him be for a couple of days and see how he goes.

Do not take him to a vet.
Unless you use a specialised fish vet, they will charge you a heap of money and probably kill him. Then charge you for a necropsy and tell you he has a bunch of health issues.

Change his water with clean dechlorinated water every day for at least the next 2 weeks. Make up a bucket/ container of water and add dechlorinator today, and aerate it. Then use that to do his water changes tomorrow and the next few days.

Do not feed him for 2 days. When you do feed him, offer a little bit of food and remove any uneaten food 5 minutes later. Do a water change 3-4 hours after feeding him.

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The gill cover has a flap of skin on the outer edge and this can be damaged. The gill itself should still be ok.

The air bubble you see coming out from the gill will be air the fish has taken in at the surface, removed the oxygen from the air with his labyrinth organ, and then expelled the air out of the gill. That is not an issue.

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Because you added Erythromycin to the tank, you will have killed off the beneficial filter bacteria. I would drain the tank and gravel clean it. Then refill it with dechlorinated water and drain it again. Refill one more time (with dechlorinated water) and leave it to run for a couple of days. If the male is moving about more normally in a couple of days, then put him back into the tank and see how he goes.

When he is back in the tank, do not feed him more than once every second day, and do a 75% water change 3-4 hours after you feed him.

Turn your filter up too if you can.

 

[J CZA]

Do not add anything else to his water. Just let him be for a couple of days and see how he goes.

Do not take him to a vet.
Unless you use a specialised fish vet, they will charge you a heap of money and probably kill him. Then charge you for a necropsy and tell you he has a bunch of health issues.

Change his water with clean dechlorinated water every day for at least the next 2 weeks. Make up a bucket/ container of water and add dechlorinator today, and aerate it. Then use that to do his water changes tomorrow and the next few days.

Do not feed him for 2 days. When you do feed him, offer a little bit of food and remove any uneaten food 5 minutes later. Do a water change 3-4 hours after feeding him.

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The gill cover has a flap of skin on the outer edge and this can be damaged. The gill itself should still be ok.

The air bubble you see coming out from the gill will be air the fish has taken in at the surface, removed the oxygen from the air with his labyrinth organ, and then expelled the air out of the gill. That is not an issue.

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Because you added Erythromycin to the tank, you will have killed off the beneficial filter bacteria. I would drain the tank and gravel clean it. Then refill it with dechlorinated water and drain it again. Refill one more time (with dechlorinated water) and leave it to run for a couple of days. If the male is moving about more normally in a couple of days, then put him back into the tank and see how he goes.

When he is back in the tank, do not feed him more than once every second day, and do a 75% water change 3-4 hours after you feed him.

Turn your filter up too if you can.

Thanks for all the help. If you didnt reply than Romane would probably not be alive today.Ok so i need to clean the tank alot, fast him. Keep him in the little contaner dose the bowl need to have a airator? And for this part. Change his water with clean dechlorinated water every day Make up a bucket/ container of water and add dechlorinator today, and aerate it. Then use that to do his water changes tomorrow and the next few days?. Do i just airate the the fresh water when doing a water change? And should i clean the tank 75% everyday after he eats? Should i clean the gravel also every day?and for the filter. I removed it from the tank last night and raped ot up in a bag. Is it still useable? Will that give off healthy bacteria or do i need a new filter.

 

[Colin_T]

Water changes are the best thing for fish as long as the new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine. If the tank water ever goes cloudy, or the fish ever looks sick or unwell, do a 75% water change with dechlorinated water and see how the fish look a few hours later.

Keep the fish in the small shallow container of water for a few days and see how he looks in 2 days time. If he is better in 2 days he can be put back into his tank.

If his aquarium has a filter then it does not need an airstone to aerate the water because the filter will do it. However, you should aerate the bucket of water with dechlorinator in for at least 30minutes before the water gets used in his tank.
The small shallow container that he is in now, does not need an airstone or aeration.

Change all the water in his little container every day until he goes back into the main tank. Use the bucket of water with dechlorinator to do these water changes. This bucket of water should be aerated for at least 30minutes when it is first made up.

When the fish is back in his tank, you should only feed him once every second day, and change 75% of his water 3-4 hours after you feed him. You should also clean the gravel any time you do a water change. Do this every time you feed him until the filters have recovered in a month or so.
When the filters have recovered in a month or so, then you can feed once a day and do water changes less often, but not until then.

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What sort of filter do you have, can you post a pic of it?

If you removed the filter yesterday then most of the bacteria have probably died. However, if you wash the filter materials (sponges, noodles, etc ) and the filter case with tapwater, you can reuse them.

 

[J CZA]

Water changes are the best thing for fish as long as the new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine. If the tank water ever goes cloudy, or the fish ever looks sick or unwell, do a 75% water change with dechlorinated water and see how the fish look a few hours later.

Keep the fish in the small shallow container of water for a few days and see how he looks in 2 days time. If he is better in 2 days he can be put back into his tank.

If his aquarium has a filter then it does not need an airstone to aerate the water because the filter will do it. However, you should aerate the bucket of water with dechlorinator in for at least 30minutes before the water gets used in his tank.
The small shallow container that he is in now, does not need an airstone or aeration.

Change all the water in his little container every day until he goes back into the main tank. Use the bucket of water with dechlorinator to do these water changes. This bucket of water should be aerated for at least 30minutes when it is first made up.

When the fish is back in his tank, you should only feed him once every second day, and change 75% of his water 3-4 hours after you feed him. You should also clean the gravel any time you do a water change. Do this every time you feed him until the filters have recovered in a month or so.
When the filters have recovered in a month or so, then you can feed once a day and do water changes less often, but not until then.

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What sort of filter do you have, can you post a pic of it?

If you removed the filter yesterday then most of the bacteria have probably died. However, if you wash the filter materials (sponges, noodles, etc ) and the filter case with tapwater, you can reuse them.

I have a topfinsilentstreme 10 power filter. The dilter is sealed on a bag. I dont know if any bacteria is still alive. O should just rince out the filter and reuse it?.

 

[Colin_T]

Your filter has a carbon pouch that should be thrown away. Once carbon is wet and then dried again it is pretty much useless. Carbon is not necessary in an aquarium anyway.

The rest of your filter materials can be washed under tap water and used again.

There are a few people on youtube that added course sponges to their filters and it is a good idea. They used a round filter sponge with a hole thru the middle, to go on the intake tube, and some square filter sponges to go in the case to add extra filtration. You buy sponges for different brands of filter and simply cut them with a pr of scissors to fit the filter.

Check out YouTube and do a search for your filter and see what people have done.

The extra sponges will improve the filter's ability to clean the water, trap gunk and hold more beneficial filter bacteria, which is what you want. The extra sponges will last for years and you simply squeeze them out in a bucket of aquarium water every month, or more often if necessary. When they are clean put them back in the filter.

 

[J CZA]

Your filter has a carbon pouch that should be thrown away. Once carbon is wet and then dried again it is pretty much useless. Carbon is not necessary in an aquarium anyway.

The rest of your filter materials can be washed under tap water and used again.

There are a few people on youtube that added course sponges to their filters and it is a good idea. They used a round filter sponge with a hole thru the middle, to go on the intake tube, and some square filter sponges to go in the case to add extra filtration. You buy sponges for different brands of filter and simply cut them with a pr of scissors to fit the filter.

Check out YouTube and do a search for your filter and see what people have done.

The extra sponges will improve the filter's ability to clean the water, trap gunk and hold more beneficial filter bacteria, which is what you want. The extra sponges will last for years and you simply squeeze them out in a bucket of aquarium water every month, or more often if necessary. When they are clean put them back in the filter.

I can go to the store to get some filter pads. Should i get ant extra stuff there? Like those benafical leaves? Or extra filter media? If it keeps the tank crystal clear ill get it.


He seems to be doing better in the Tupperware.. hes not laying on the ground or breathing rapidly. Do you think this could be deadly? Also it kinda looks (to other people) that he might be showing slight lift in the scales. Besides clean water is there aby way to prevent that?

 

[Colin_T]

I would not buy more filter pads for that specific filter. I would simply get a couple of sponges (from another brand of filter) to go in the filter and a round one to go on the filter intake (over the strainer). These sponges will last for years and you won't have to replace them until they fall apart in 5 or 10 yrs time.

You don't need to add anything else to the tank or filter. Sponges are probably the best filter media out there. They trap dirt and gunk and hold lots of beneficial bacteria.

I think the tank water had a lot of uneaten fish food and there was an ammonia surge that made him unwell. Then he panicked or stressed out and injured himself (his gill cover). If he is kept in clean water from now on he should recover without any problems.

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I noticed the scales looked a bit off on his back above his head but that could be the photo or it could be the fish. If you could post another picture of him showing his entire body from the side, it might help us clarify whether he does or doesn't have scales sticking out.

You can also look at him from above and see if his scales are sticking out sideways from his body.

Clean water is the best way to help any fish that is sick or unwell, so see how he goes over the next few days.

 

[J CZA]

I would not buy more filter pads for that specific filter. I would simply get a couple of sponges (from another brand of filter) to go in the filter and a round one to go on the filter intake (over the strainer). These sponges will last for years and you won't have to replace them until they fall apart in 5 or 10 yrs time.

You don't need to add anything else to the tank or filter. Sponges are probably the best filter media out there. They trap dirt and gunk and hold lots of beneficial bacteria.

I think the tank water had a lot of uneaten fish food and there was an ammonia surge that made him unwell. Then he panicked or stressed out and injured himself (his gill cover). If he is kept in clean water from now on he should recover without any problems.

----------------------
I noticed the scales looked a bit off on his back above his head but that could be the photo or it could be the fish. If you could post another picture of him showing his entire body from the side, it might help us clarify whether he does or doesn't have scales sticking out.

You can also look at him from above and see if his scales are sticking out sideways from his body.

Clean water is the best way to help any fish that is sick or unwell, so see how he goes over the next few days.

I would not buy more filter pads for that specific filter. I would simply get a couple of sponges (from another brand of filter) to go in the filter and a round one to go on the filter intake (over the strainer). These sponges will last for years and you won't have to replace them until they fall apart in 5 or 10 yrs time.

You don't need to add anything else to the tank or filter. Sponges are probably the best filter media out there. They trap dirt and gunk and hold lots of beneficial bacteria.

I think the tank water had a lot of uneaten fish food and there was an ammonia surge that made him unwell. Then he panicked or stressed out and injured himself (his gill cover). If he is kept in clean water from now on he should recover without any problems.

----------------------
I noticed the scales looked a bit off on his back above his head but that could be the photo or it could be the fish. If you could post another picture of him showing his entire body from the side, it might help us clarify whether he does or doesn't have scales sticking out.

You can also look at him from above and see if his scales are sticking out sideways from his body.

Clean water is the best way to help any fish that is sick or unwell, so see how he goes over the next few days.

Im hoing to take out the decor and gravel and turbo clean that also the actual filter and heater to get the meds off. Than i will clean the glass while draining the water.. the lights will turn off and ill place Romane in the other 10 gal betta tank (in the Tupperware) so they shouldent see eachouther. Than rince out the tank set it up with water and let it filter for a day or 2? And give romane new clean airated water in his lil encloser every day.. i think i got it. I also have a moss ball in the tank do i just rince it out and ill be safe?

 

[J CZA]

I cheaned out the whole tank. Added conditioned airated his water for 30 acclimated it and added him in. Hes in a larger 4 inch deep Tupperware. My laptop is dead so i cant post a photo of him now but looking above him hes scales do not look rased but his gills do. Im going to bed now I spent hours working on that tank.

 

[Colin_T]

Your tank will not have an established filter and you will need to keep feeding down to a minimum until the filters have developed again.

When the fish is back in his tank, you should only feed him once every second day, and change 75% of his water 3-4 hours after you feed him. You should also clean the gravel any time you do a water change. Do this every time you feed him until the filters have recovered in a month or so.
When the filters have recovered in a month or so, then you can feed once a day and do water changes less often, but not until then.

Just monitor him for now and see how he goes. He should be fine as long as the water is kept clean

 

[NickAu]

When you do feed him, offer a little bit of food and remove any uneaten food 5 minutes later

Bettas are easy to feed especially if you use high grade pellets, I feed my Rose tail male 4 pellets a day, 2 in the morning 2 at night.

At feeding time I go to the tank and he comes to the top left corner, I give him a pellet watch him eat it then give him the second one, This way I can see how hes eating and I control how much he gets, A male Betta usually flares at its food before swallowing it.

I do this with my Sorority also this way I get to check the fish out each day to see that they are healthy and eating, It also gives me the opportunity to interact with them by teasing them making them chase my finger and even bite my finger.

Ok the girls are a bit trickier to feed but even there I can usually make sure each girl gets 2 pellets.

 

[J CZA]

Your tank will not have an established filter and you will need to keep feeding down to a minimum until the filters have developed again.

When the fish is back in his tank, you should only feed him once every second day, and change 75% of his water 3-4 hours after you feed him. You should also clean the gravel any time you do a water change. Do this every time you feed him until the filters have recovered in a month or so.
When the filters have recovered in a month or so, then you can feed once a day and do water changes less often, but not until then.

Just monitor him for now and see how he goes. He should be fine as long as the water is kept clean

Ok. A month for a filter? Its from the meds right. Im getting some filter stuff today. Should i do a 75% wc every other day then? And i feed romane pellets. I started giving him flakes because be likes them. If he eats all the pellets without leaving any do i need to do a 75% wc after i feed him still? Its tricky with flakes and i still dont know how muck flakes is enough. Can i just use the same brand filter pad for the filter? Will it take less time to establish?

 

[Colin_T]

Yes, the medication (Erythromycin) that you used is an anti-biotic and killed all the bacteria in the tank and in the filter.

The filter will take about 1 month to rebuild the beneficial bacteria you need to keep the water clean. It could take longer tho.

The only way to see if the filter has established is to test the water (or have a petshop test it) for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

When fish food and waste break down in the water they produce ammonia. After a couple of weeks some good bacteria will have developed in the filter and they eat the ammonia and convert it into nitrite. A couple of weeks later you get more bacteria that grow in the filter and they eat the nitrite and convert it into nitrate. When all these bacteria are living and working in the filter there will be no ammonia or nitrite in the water and the filter has established or cycled.

Until the filters have establishes, you should only feed the fish once every second day, and only give him as much food as he can eat in 2 minutes. Then remove any uneaten food from the tank. And you have to do the 75% water change 3-4 hours (or within 8 hours) after feeding him until the filters have established. The water changes must be done even if he eats all the food.

Anything that breaks down in the water will produce ammonia. This includes fish food, fish poop, rotting plants, anything. The water changes will keep the ammonia levels low while the filters grow the bacteria they need to keep the water clean.

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You can use the same brand of cartridge for the filter if you like but it is not a very good filter media. However, if that is all you can get then use it. If you can get some sponges then they will last longer and won't need to be replaced until they fall apart in the future. Whereas the cartridge has carbon in that needs to be replaced. And each time you replace the cartridge, you lose a lot of the good filter bacteria.

Different filter cartridges will not make any difference to how long the filter takes to establish.