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Betta has resistant fin rot

Bettaguy08

Fish Crazy
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Visalia,CA
I have been trying to get rid of these fin rot for a while now using basic ways such as using aquarium salt, keeping good water conditions, but my betta fish still manages to have fin rot. He isn’t lethargic or anything like that, but he still has fin rot. Anyone think they might know the solution

Is the tank cycled?: I would assume so since I haven’t had any ammonia or nitrites for a while now.

Perimeters?: I’ve tested the water and the only notable thing is the hardness being very hard, they isn’t nitrites or ammonia, and the Nitrates level is low.

Is the tank heated?: No

Plants?: Yes

Tank size?: embarrassing

Fed well?: Yes I feed them around 2-3 fish food pellets every 2-3 days cause I don’t want to over feed them.
 

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How much salt did you use and how long did you have salt in the tank for?

You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

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If salt hasn't helped, then try a broad spectrum fish medication that treats bacteria, fungus and external protozoan infections (Waterlife Protozin or similar). Run that for 2-3 weeks.

You can use salt and Protozin at the same time for a double whammy.

If that doesn't help, you will probably need to use antibiotics. But these should only be used as a last resort when all other options have failed.
 
To work out the volume of water in the tank:
measure length x width x height in cm.
divide by 1000.
= volume in litres.

When you measure the height, measure from the top of the substrate to the top of the water level.

If you have big rocks or driftwood in the tank, remove these before measuring the height of the water level so you get a more accurate water volume.

You can use a permanent marker to draw a line on the tank at the water level and put down how many litres are in the tank at that level.

There is a calculator/ converter in the "FishForum.net Calculator" under "Useful Links" at the bottom of this page that will let you convert litres to gallons if you need it.

Remove carbon from the filter before treating with chemicals or it will adsorb the medication and stop it working. You do not need to remove the carbon if you use salt.

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Before you treat the tank, do the following things.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. This will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using medications or salt to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
 
How much salt did you use and how long did you have salt in the tank for?

You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

------------------------
If salt hasn't helped, then try a broad spectrum fish medication that treats bacteria, fungus and external protozoan infections (Waterlife Protozin or similar). Run that for 2-3 weeks.

You can use salt and Protozin at the same time for a double whammy.

If that doesn't help, you will probably need to use antibiotics. But these should only be used as a last resort when all other options have failed.
I only put a little bit of salt and it was for like 2 weeks, I’m gonna do what you said and put some more salt in and if it doesnt work I’ll double the salt dosage rate. Thanks, I’ll add the salt! And if it doesn’t work I’ll do the second step.
 

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