Anubias rotting roots

[Divinityinlove]

This anubias arrived with unexpectedly long roots, quite thick and instead of cutting them and gluing it to a rock, I just buried the lengthy parts and as you can see left crown and plenty of root above gravel, held down by stones.

I did notice last week when some of the longer roots came out as I gravel vacuumed, that they were partially rotten....

What is the best fix for this? Should I pull all roots out, cut off rotten bits and glue the short roots to the rocks, or will it adapt to having part of its roots under gravel?

Very much appreciate your insights.

 

[Archerfish]

Yes, you don't want to plant Anubias in the substrate. Anubias is best attached to a log or rock with the roots exposed. Use cotton thread to attach it. I wouldn't cut off any healthy roots. Dead or 'gooey' roots should be removed with sharp scissors before attaching the plant to a log.

 

[BrianK]

I trim the roots all the time on my Anubias (all the really long ones). I do always leave about an inch or two. The roots on an Anubias are just to anchor the plant. They do most of their feeding through the leaves.

 

[StevenF]

The roots can be curries in the substrate the the rizom must not be burried. The Rhizome is the part the the leaves and roots are attached to. But the bigger issue you have is that all your plants look sick. A lot of yellow leaves. are you using a fertilizer?

 

[Divinityinlove]

The roots can be curries in the substrate the the rizom must not be burried. The Rhizome is the part the the leaves and roots are attached to. But the bigger issue you have is that all your plants look sick. A lot of yellow leaves. are you using a fertilizer?

I am. I use TNC lite. However it is well established from many posts of mine here that my water is an issue and I don't have an RO system and also everyone suggests finding a custom combo of ferts to help which requires figuring out what my water needs, and also trial and error or making my own and I am no chemistry expert so I have yet to figure out what to do. The same plants do well in my main tank... Not sure if they dislike the water temp at 22°C? My main tank is 26°C. Other than this, my other tank is older so maybe more established. I have no idea why they aren't flourishing yet.

 

[Byron]

From your post above, I am more inclined to think the light may be a factor. What type, what is the spectrum, and how long is it on? You are in London with hard water so the TNC Lite is fine. I also see that the older leaves are the ones yellowing, and looks like algae (diatoms?), so all does not look that bad, given your information so far. Do not jump into adding more nutrients, this is not likely the issue here.

 

[Divinityinlove]

Hi Byron. I use a NICREW light for the 3 new aquariums. 4.5 watt blue & white LED light. I found this brighter than the rgb.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09KLJFPGR/?tag=
My main tank was adopted and has a bright warm white light that is unknown. However the only plant that has ever survived in there and spread is hygrophila. However it has never been very green. The red lotus was previously dissolving of leaves and since being given a root tab has bolted literally 1-2 inch of stem per day and is mostly stem (leggy) now... The amazon sword is yellowing and dissolving also. Duckweed, red root floaters and water lettuce do excellent but then again they're right under the light. Guppy grass is surviving but not growing much.

i use the same nicrew light for the shrimp tank and beta tank, the mosses in the shrimp tank do very well. But did do better under a brighter light, although the light was also blue and white led, of same voltage, however the tank before was shallower and light reached the bottom.

my main reason for not going brighter... Because I have the setting of my lights at 50%-60% and they can br a bit brighter... Is because obviously I consider brightness to stress fish?

Based on these, what is your suggestion?

Here is a photo of the Amazon sword which has been in there for a a month or so.

From your post above, I am more inclined to think the light may be a factor. What type, what is the spectrum, and how long is it on? You are in London with hard water so the TNC Lite is fine. I also see that the older leaves are the ones yellowing, and looks like algae (diatoms?), so all does not look that bad, given your information so far. Do not jump into adding more nutrients, this is not likely the issue here.

 

[NearMeBettas]

Fluvle sand mix substrate, some fish to fertilize, and a really strong LED under counter light do the trick for my plants. I also have really hard water.

Dosing to tank with some firts and cranking up the lighting a bit would be my suggestion.

 

[Divinityinlove]

Fluvle sand mix substrate, some fish to fertilize, and a really strong LED under counter light do the trick for my plants. I also have really hard water.

Dosing to tank with some firts and cranking up the lighting a bit would be my suggestion.

This light doesn't crank up. You're saying to go brighter than this though?

 

[Byron]

If you get the floating plants growing more the light could be increased to see if it benefits. But be careful. "White and blue" doesnot tell us anything about the red, and I could find no datain the linked site. Red is essential for plant photosynthesis. Blue is too, but less, and with low red the blue can result in algae issues. Another reason to be careful with the intensity and duration.

TNC Lite is good, the liquid presumably. I suspect they also have substrate tabs, try those for the swords, these plants usually thrive on substrate tab fertilization.

 

[Divinityinlove]

If you get the floating plants growing more the light could be increased to see if it benefits. But be careful. "White and blue" doesnot tell us anything about the red, and I could find no datain the linked site. Red is essential for plant photosynthesis. Blue is too, but less, and with low red the blue can result in algae issues. Another reason to be careful with the intensity and duration.

TNC Lite is good, the liquid presumably. I suspect they also have substrate tabs, try those for the swords, these plants usually thrive on substrate tab fertilization.

The swords have seachem flourish tabs currently.

The NICREW brand lights have white, white+blue, or RGB, (red, green, blue, no red and blue that I saw. They weren't very bright at all even at the same wattage as the B+W. Also the colours were separate only, no option for R+B in one and no results for a full spectrum that I found which was submersible and suitable to fit my tank hoods which have hooked (are not flat and cannot attach a flat light). I have yet to find a full spectrum tank light with the sizes and styles and good quality at a decent price as these NICREW lights. I need the long rod like light only. I found the blue and white were brighter and made the tank more vivid. When I see photos on here of other people's tanks, it seemed more like that then the yellowish light/warm white from my main tank. So I thought if more experienced keepers have this bright white-ish light, it must be better. I have full spectrum growlights for my plants and I know they are fantastic. I also have growlights which are red + blue, to be used individually, or combined and they did very well on my young plants. Just haven't found anything like that for aquarium lights. Not on the shelves at stores, not online. What do you use?

 

[Byron]

The swords have seachem flourish tabs currently

Good. The Flourish Tabs are excellent in my experience, and an additional benefit is they do not leech into the water column to feed algae. My swords have always responded well to these.

As for the light. The colour can vary in photos depending upon the camera, so it is not good to judge colour from photos. One needs to see the specifications. You want a white light that is high in the red, blue and green wavelengths. There are good LED lights, but other members will have to advise you on these, as my limited foray into LED did not have good results. I used T8 fluorescent lighting for over 20 years. Unfortunately, this type of lighting is being phased out in NA and the UK. Due to my cancer issues, I had to re-home my fish earlier this year, but prior to that decision I had been looking for good LED. I stopped when I gave my tanks away.

 

[Divinityinlove]

Good. The Flourish Tabs are excellent in my experience, and an additional benefit is they do not leech into the water column to feed algae. My swords have always responded well to these.

As for the light. The colour can vary in photos depending upon the camera, so it is not good to judge colour from photos. One needs to see the specifications. You want a white light that is high in the red, blue and green wavelengths. There are good LED lights, but other members will have to advise you on these, as my limited foray into LED did not have good results. I used T8 fluorescent lighting for over 20 years. Unfortunately, this type of lighting is being phased out in NA and the UK. Due to my cancer issues, I had to re-home my fish earlier this year, but prior to that decision I had been looking for good LED. I stopped when I gave my tanks away.

Thanks for sharing this.