Another Ich Case

jonny-5

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Hi all, I have what I consider tiny grains of salt (Ich) on a Juvenile & a very mature Bronze Corydora
The tank is a 30 Gallon with 4 Bronze Cory's (1 of the Cory's is coming up to 5 yrs old & seems to be the worst affected) 2 Juvenile Guppys & some guppy fry (3 days old) which were born in there.
P.H is 7
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5 ppm
Tank has been up and running around 4-5 months
I added a few young Bronze Cory's around 2 months ago,1 of which was very pale & stressed, It died a few weeks later after being isolated,then returned to main tank

My question is have I done this right?

I'm certain its Ich as I've regularly seen them flicking off the bogwood & rubbing against decor, So I used NT Labs White Spot & Anti Fungal treatment. I Finished the course over 7 days,Left it in the tank for a further 7 days then did a 50% water change.
A few days later I noticed the flicking again so I repeated the course of same Medicine.
So today was the last day of the 7 days & the flicking is still present.
So this morning I have done a 50% water change,turned the temp up to 30oC & added 3 Tablespoons of Api Aquarium Salt.

Any help/feedback/comments will be appreciated
 
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Hi all, I have what I consider tiny grains of salt (Ich) on a Juvenile & a very mature Bronze Corydora
The tank is a 30 Gallon with 4 Bronze Cory's (1 of the Cory's is coming up to 5 yrs old & seems to be the worst affected) 2 Juvenile Guppys & some guppy fry (3 days old) which were born in there.
P.H is 7
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5 ppm
Tank has been up and running around 4-5 months
I added a few young Bronze Cory's around 2 months ago,1 of which was very pale & stressed, It died a few weeks later after being isolated,then returned to main tank

My question is have I done this right?

I'm certain its Ich as I've regularly seen them flicking off the bogwood & rubbing against decor, So I used NT Labs White Spot & Anti Fungal treatment. I Finished the course over 7 days,Left it in the tank for a further 7 days then did a 50% water change.
A few days later I noticed the flicking again so I repeated the course of same Medicine.
So today was the last day of the 7 days & the flicking is still present.
So this morning I have done a 50% water change,turned the temp up to 30oC & added 3 Tablespoons of Api Aquarium Salt.

Any help/feedback/comments will be appreciated
Few pics,It just appears to be his back
 

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I’m currently treating ICH in my tank with heat treatment only as I’ve read it’s one of the best treatments.

Im no expert by any means but from what I’ve read salt doesn’t necessarily need adding with the heat treatment unless the heat alone doesn’t work.

make sure you have plenty of surface agitation to allow a good gas exchange and get as much oxygen in the water as possible, the extra heat will drop 02 saturation if this is not done. Continue this until you see the white spots have gone and continue the heat for an extra 7days, this may take a few weeks.

once completed lower the temperature gradually to avoid shock/stress to the fish.

I’m sure Colin_T or @essjay will pop along and give more information about this
 
Thanks for the reply, I have plenty of surface agitation,I have also slightly lowered water level so the filter makes more of a splash. Everything seems fine at the moment & only my old Bronze cory seems irratated by what ever is going on in the aquarium. I can't see any white spots on anything since turning up the temp to 30oC,So I am remaining hopefull
 
If you are certain the spots were ich, you need to keep the temp at 30 for 2 weeks. Now the spots have disappeared, the parasite is sitting on the bottom of the tank in a sort of cyst, multiplying. Once it is ready the cyst will open and new parasites will go swimming off to look for a fish to infect. Neither heat not nor meds can kill the parasite when it's on the fish or in the cyst; it can only be killed in the free swimming stage. So the temp must still be at 30 when the very last cyst opens or the fish will be re-infected.


Edited for typo :blush:
 
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If you are certain the spots were ich, you need to keep the temp at 30 for 2 weeks. Now the spots have disappeared, the parasite is sitting on the bottom of the tank in a sort of cyst, multiplying. Once it is ready the cyst will open and new parasites will go swimming off to look for a fish to infect. Neither heat not meds can kill the parasite when it's on the fish or in the cyst; it can only be killed in the free swimming stage. So the temp must still be at 30 when the very last cyst opens or the fish will be re-infected.
Thanks essjay. Soon I’ll be able to answer without the need of calling you or Colin_T
 
Thank you, I just wanted to make sure I had got it right with the temp thing. I just added salt in very small dose as a extra helper.
Admittedly I am not a big fan of any meds & this is the first disease I have ever had to treat in 20 years of fish keeping, but the NT Labs I used on the first go,was something I had lying around.
Anyways I'm going to sound like I have a favourite fish here & guess I have, my old Bronze worries me more than the others Hes been around here a long time & hes prob the longest fish I have ever had, He is also still very active & because hes quite a size it's hard not to notice him

Thanks for the advice
 
Happy New Year !
Just a quick 1 I have notice my Bronze Cory that was badly affected with Ich has a nasty wound appearing just below Dorsal Fin. The pic above shows this but now its with a cotton wool type growth.
Obviously this is a secondary infection from the Ich,But as im still doing the 30oC heater attempt (only 2 days in) can i add anything else for the fungal infection or would that be too much stress? Thanks
 
The final Day of my Ich Heatment has come, Just done a 50% Water change & now starting to turn the heat down by 2oC a day. Its dropped around 1.4oC to 28.6 in a few hours but its only 3oC outside.
Already the Corys seem happier, Not seen any spots for at least 10 days now, So im remaining hopeful
 

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