Ammonia coming out of my tap.

[mbpted]

I think I'm going to lose all my fish.

I change my water once a week. (this morning) And I've had the same fish for months.

When I looked in at my tank this afternoon, half my fish were dead.

I immediately checked the water quality, and the ammonia was high. I did a quick and thorough water change, 90% of the tank, to give the rest of the fish fresh water. When I checked the tank an hour later, several more had died, and the ammonia was high again.

I then checked the water directly from the tap, and sure enough, it was high in ammonia.

This may be an anomaly. I've been using the same tap, the same bucket, and the same water for years, but today the water was bad.

There's no point in refilling the tank if the water's no good, and I have no other source or water. I can check the water before I add it to the tank, but if it's high in ammonia, what can I do to lower the ammonia it before adding it to the tank.

Is there anything I can use to reduce the ammonia in a tank, or water before adding it?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[NickAu]

What water treatment are you using?

 

[Byron]

First, when you say ammonia is "high," please give us the test number. And the unit of measurement your test kit uses (probably ppm, parts per million, but confirm). We need to know just what level you are dealing with.

Second, are there live plants in this tank?

And what conditioner are you using (as Nick asked), and are any other additives of any sort being added to the water?

Byron.

 

[mbpted]

What water treatment are you using?

"Water Conditioner" by Aqueon.

I have an 8 oz bottle. I'm probably about 3/4 of the way through it.

 

[mbpted]

First, when you say ammonia is "high," please give us the test number. And the unit of measurement your test kit uses (probably ppm, parts per million, but confirm). We need to know just what level you are dealing with.

The Ammonia level is just above .5 ppm. That was straight out of the tap. I tested it last night and it was the same in the tank.

Second, are there live plants in this tank?

Yes, An Amazon Sword plant. (Echinodorus bleheri)

And what conditioner are you using (as Nick asked), and are any other additives of any sort being added to the water?

I add a product called "Special Blend" Microbe-Lift, recommended by the LFS. I add it with every water change. Also a plant fertilizer by API called "Leaf Zone." I add these after each water change. I have never noticed a change in water quality while using these products.

 

[Byron]

OK, this tells me a few things. First, ammonia at 0.5 ppm, assuming the test kit is accurate, is not going to kill fish with plants in the tank. So we need to look elsewhere. Plants need nitrogen, and they prefer it in the form of ammonia/ammonium, and they will take up a considerable amount of this. Echinodorus sp. (sword plants) are relatively rapid consumers of ammonia/ammonium. Floating plants would be even better, and if you don't have any I would advise getting some, as they can make quite a difference here in more than just ammonia.

Second, I would stop using the Microbe-Lift. This product seems similar to API's StressZyme, and I believe I have seen similar products. The claims they all make about reducing sludge, avoiding water changes [I'm not suggesting you are not doing water changes], etc., are pie in the sky. For one thing, there are natural processes that deal with the breakdown of organics, and these are healthier and safer than adding spurious and potentially-harmful chemical substances. Water changes cannot be avoided by any means, except a very minimal fish load in a planted tank, something none of us even come close to with our aquaria.

The API LeafZone is not likely to cause problems unless overdosed. But it is only iron and potassium, and these are just two of the 17 nutrients plants need. You could change to a comprehensive supplement like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium when the API is gone, but even so, if the plants are thriving now, up to you. However, dose plant fertilizer the day following the water change; reason is that the heavy metal detoxification in most conditioners may negate these nutrients in fertilizers. But aside from that, with the "excitement" to fish of a water change, it is preferable not to add any substances (aside from the required amount of conditioner but no more) to the water. "Pure" water means less opportunity for trouble.

The above will help make life for the fish easier. Every substance added to the aquarium water gets inside fish, via osmosis through the cells and gills. So avoiding any that are not essential is the best plan. At the very least, all of these cause stress, which weakens fish.

Now to the sudden deaths. Something in the water seems the reason, but ammonia at this level is not likely. And the deaths would not be so sudden, you would see more of an increase in respiration rate, maybe surface hanging/gulping, red gills. Have you tested for nitrite and nitrate? In both the tank water and the tap water. What is the pH in the tank and in the tap water (remember to outgas CO2 in tap water before testing pH, you can shake a small amount of straight tap water for several moments, then test--this is not needed with tank water).

Have you noticed any other symptoms, different behaviours from previously, after the water change(s)? Fish usually do not suddenly die, so some sign of what this is might have been present, and any change in fish behaviour/reaction can clue us in. I have once or twice forgotten the conditioner, but I have a habit of observing the fish during and immediately after the water change and I was able to pin this down in a second when I saw them huddled at the opposite end of the tank, contrary to their normal habit of even swimming into the fresh water stream as it enters.

Byron.

 

[mbpted]

OK, this tells me a few things. First, ammonia at 0.5 ppm, assuming the test kit is accurate, is not going to kill fish with plants in the tank. So we need to look elsewhere. Plants need nitrogen, and they prefer it in the form of ammonia/ammonium, and they will take up a considerable amount of this. Echinodorus sp. (sword plants) are relatively rapid consumers of ammonia/ammonium. Floating plants would be even better, and if you don't have any I would advise getting some, as they can make quite a difference here in more than just ammonia.

I'll look into getting a floating plant.

Second, I would stop using the Microbe-Lift. This product seems similar to API's StressZyme, and I believe I have seen similar products.

Okay. It was recommended when I first started, and I kept it up as a habit. If it's not necessary, I can stop.

The API LeafZone is not likely to cause problems unless overdosed. But it is only iron and potassium, and these are just two of the 17 nutrients plants need. You could change to a comprehensive supplement like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium when the API is gone, but even so, if the plants are thriving now, up to you. However, dose plant fertilizer the day following the water change; reason is that the heavy metal detoxification in most conditioners may negate these nutrients in fertilizers. But aside from that, with the "excitement" to fish of a water change, it is preferable not to add any substances (aside from the required amount of conditioner but no more) to the water. "Pure" water means less opportunity for trouble.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into the extended fertilizer.
My plant looks healthy. I try to prune any dark tips and pull any leaf that becomes transparent and dead. I've never been a green thumb, but it's alive and grows new leaves, so I think it's okay.

Now to the sudden deaths. Something in the water seems the reason, but ammonia at this level is not likely. And the deaths would not be so sudden, you would see more of an increase in respiration rate, maybe surface hanging/gulping, red gills. Have you tested for nitrite and nitrate? In both the tank water and the tap water. What is the pH in the tank and in the tap water (remember to outgas CO2 in tap water before testing pH, you can shake a small amount of straight tap water for several moments, then test--this is not needed with tank water).

Nitrite was at 0 ppm, Nitrate was at 0 ppm. pH is at 7.8/8, but that's been the norm for my tap water, and I was advised (in this forum) not to try to adjust it, but to let the fish acclimate.

The fish were behaving normally after the water change, although my beloved, bristlenose pleco did not immediately leave his comfortable hiding place for his bi-weekly cucumber slice as he normally does. I did not pay close attention as I was leaving for the day. (the pleco is the only survivor of this disaster.) And he still has not touched the food.

The only other difference was a regular 6 week filter change, so again, nothing unusual.

Have you noticed any other symptoms, different behaviours from previously, after the water change(s)? Fish usually do not suddenly die, so some sign of what this is might have been present, and any change in fish behaviour/reaction can clue us in.

None that I've noticed. Business as normal, except they're all dead. It's distressing!

Thanks so much for the comprehensive response and advise.

 

[Byron]

A suggestion: when you do the weekly water change, make sure you have several hours of time, not only to do the task but to observe periodically following. Same goes for adding new fish, doing major re-aquascaping, etc. In other words, any time you do work in the aquarium, give yourself time after to be around. You would be surprised how many times something can go wrong, from filter leaks (I had this this past Wednesday after cleaning my canister, for several hours it was fine but I was lucky I checked before going to bed) to water issues. I just finished my weekly water changes on my 8 tanks, took 4 hours, now I will be in there for a couple more a few times, including their weekly "treat" of frozen daphnia and bloodworms, but the point is to be around to notice problems early.

Now, can you give us the tank data. Volume, and fish load (species and numbers) that were in it. How many plants (a photo will easily answer this). When you cleaned the filter, was this at the same time as the water change, or if not, how distant? And what volume of tank water is changed normally (or was this time if different)?

Correct on not fiddling with pH. The GH and KH are related and they might need to be targeted if one did want the pH lowered. But depending upon species, this may not be a problem. And fussing with pH is loaded with difficulties. A stable pH is much easier on fish than fluctuating, always provided the pH is not too extreme from the fish species' requirements.

Any chance someone put something in the tank unknown to you?

Byron.

 

[NickAu]

The only other difference was a regular 6 week filter change,

Unless your filter is falling apart there is no need to change anything, all you are doing is throwing away good bacteria built up in the filter and wasting money.

I would stop using the Microbe-Lift. This product seems similar to API's StressZyme,

Imo the stuff is rubbish and a waste of money, Any product that claims it reduces the need for water changes should be avoided the the plague.

 

[mbpted]

Now, can you give us the tank data. Volume, and fish load (species and numbers) that were in it. How many plants (a photo will easily answer this). When you cleaned the filter, was this at the same time as the water change, or if not, how distant? And what volume of tank water is changed normally (or was this time if different)?

I changed the filter at the same time as the water change. Again, the way I've always done it. I dip the new filter in the bucket with the discarded water to soak it. I remove the old and replace it with the new.

I replace half the tank with fresh water once a week.

29 Gal Tank.
I had one fancy guppy.
5 Rummy Nose Tetras
10 Cardinal Tetras
1 Bristle Nose Pleco (the only survivor)

The live plant is the dark green one on the left side of the tank in between the two black rocks. (the others are plastic) If you look close, you can see the Pleco, a small lump on the black rock to the right of the live plant. His cucumber is sitting in the front of the tank, still untouched. I figure he's pretty stressed if he's not going for his food.

Any chance someone put something in the tank unknown to you?

No chance. I'm the only one who feeds and takes care of the fish.

 

[mbpted]

Unless your filter is falling apart there is no need to change anything, all you are doing is throwing away good bacteria built up in the filter and wasting money.

I've thought of that, but I was wondering if the build up of detritus was starting to impede the flow of water.

 

[NickAu]

All you have to do is rinse the foam/media in some old tank water at water change time

 

[mbpted]

All you have to do is rinse the foam/media in some old tank water at water change time

I've had a tank for 5 years, and I still feel like a novice! Thanks for the tip.

 

[Byron]

Rinse rather than replace filter media, agree completely. If the fine filtering (usually some sort of foam/wool block or pad) is falling apart, it should be replaced. You want the water to go through the media, but not be blocked by it. Don't know the type of filter, but ion my experience the foam or sponge-like media can be rinsed repeatedly. The white wool pad that sits at the top of my two canisters tends to get so clogged it won't rinse out without getting completely thin or out of shape, and I replace this at every rinsing (6-7 weeks now).

I still don't think this was an ammonia issue or you would have seen much higher levels than 0.5 ppm, and you said zero nitrite, so some sort of mini-cycle from the filter cleaning doesn't seem probable. The lone sword plant would not handled a sudden significant increase in ammonia, but with such a low number this isn't likely anyway. Unless your decimal point was wrong, and this was 5.0 and not 0.5 ammonia? We have to cover all bases.

Any chance they are adding something to the main water that wasn't being added before this started? When we are doing the same routine for months, and then suddenly fish all die from one water change, it has to have been something in the water. This could arrive via the water authority, or a reaction within the tank, or an additive you add... ?

I don't suppose you have another tank, even a small one, that the pleco could go into? Obviously it is under probably severe stress if all the other fish died. Rummynose and cardinals are very sensitive fish, extremely, so it doesn't take much to kill them, but it still has to be something of significance. If whatever is doing this is within the tank, this would save the pleco; but if it is in the main water, obviously not.

What is the GH and KH of the source water (will assume the tank is the same)?

 

[StevenF]

The API LeafZone is not likely to cause problems unless overdosed. But it is only iron and potassium, and these are just two of the 17 nutrients plants need. You could change to a comprehensive supplement like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium when the API is gone, but even so, if the plants are thriving now, up to you.

If your only fertilizer is iron and potassium your plants have likely consumed most of the nutrients in your tap water. Iftshis happens you will have multiple nutrient deficiencies. What that happens your plants will not be able to consume the ammonia in the water. Floating plants were listed as one possible solution. However in nutrient deficient water even those will have a hard time growing and may not be able to consume ammonia.

My plant looks healthy. I try to prune any dark tips and pull any leaf that becomes transparent and dead.

If your plants are growing well you should rarely see and transparent, dead, or black leaf tips. The fact that you see this is more evidence of nutrient deficient water. In these conditions you may see some plant growth. But often the pants is sacrificing parts of itself to support new growth.

As to your ammonia reading, I would take a sample of the water to the fish store and have them test it. Perhaps your test kit has expired or is no longer working. Also check thou your water utility and ask for the water test report ( you can sometimes find that on the web). Also what type of test kit are you using. Strip or liquid. I know the tetra ammonia test strip can give you a false positive if you do not read it immediately after dipping in the water.