Advice On Co2 And Set Up Please.

[mattlee]

i have been getting into planting my tank again after selling all of my big cichlids and have been dosing EI and adding liquid carbon. im really tempted to go down the hi tech route but have no idea what im doing

my set up is currently as follows-
60x18x24 tank
2 x FX5 fliters
4 x arcadia eco-aqua LED lights (32W each)

after a bit of research i would go with the FE approach to save a shed load of cash i would also have to remove 1 of the FX5 filters to fit the sytem within the cabinet, but i have a rena XP3 thats currently not being used so i could probably get this and the CO2 system in the same side.

so could someone go through everything i would need to set up the tank to reach its full potential. would i need to change my substrate to something like caribsea eco complete or similar or is this not essential? i currently have unipac limpopo sand. would i be better off changing my light set up to T5's?

i am totally new to all of this so please talk english and slowly

 

[DrRob]

You'll need,

1, a fire extinguisher, you'd got this bit already, oh and something to hold the handles closed.
2, a regulator, otherwise the fire extinguisher will do what it's designed to do and empty in about 60 seconds. Like one of these http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CO2-regulator-with-solenoid-magetic-valve-aquarium-/250692507511?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item3a5e701777#ht_3379wt_754 which happens to also come with
3, a solenoid, not absolutely necessary but allows you to run the system on a timer, and
4, a needle valve, so you can actually control the rate of flow beyond lots or off.
5, some CO2 proof tubing, standard airline becomes porous to CO2 after a while.
6, a bubble counter, so you know how fast the CO2 is going.
7, a diffuser or reactor, I use an inline reactor which is basically a wide pipe in the filter outlet line that puts CO2 into downward flowing water, it tries to rise constantly so stays in contact with the moving water, you'll have seen the diffuser types.
8, a drop checker, which basically tells you when the water has reached 30ppm of CO2 by changing colour to green.

As for substrate, there's nothing wrong with sand except that it's a bit light for some stems to root into and the hungry root feeders aren't big fans. I've used aquasoils, sand and gravel over the years and have no great preference, although the soils are probably easier to work with. Overall it depends what you're growing.

For lighting, no I'd probably not go to T5's with what you have, but I may supplement with some high power LED's, but that depends on what you're planning on spending and again on what you want to grow. Depends also on what room you have left in your hood.

 

[tribalbrit]

You'll need,

1, a fire extinguisher, you'd got this bit already, oh and something to hold the handles closed.
2, a regulator, otherwise the fire extinguisher will do what it's designed to do and empty in about 60 seconds. Like one of these http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CO2-regulator-with-solenoid-magetic-valve-aquarium-/250692507511?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&hash=item3a5e701777#ht_3379wt_754 which happens to also come with
3, a solenoid, not absolutely necessary but allows you to run the system on a timer, and
4, a needle valve, so you can actually control the rate of flow beyond lots or off.
5, some CO2 proof tubing, standard airline becomes porous to CO2 after a while.
6, a bubble counter, so you know how fast the CO2 is going.
7, a diffuser or reactor, I use an inline reactor which is basically a wide pipe in the filter outlet line that puts CO2 into downward flowing water, it tries to rise constantly so stays in contact with the moving water, you'll have seen the diffuser types.
8, a drop checker, which basically tells you when the water has reached 30ppm of CO2 by changing colour to green.

As for substrate, there's nothing wrong with sand except that it's a bit light for some stems to root into and the hungry root feeders aren't big fans. I've used aquasoils, sand and gravel over the years and have no great preference, although the soils are probably easier to work with. Overall it depends what you're growing.

For lighting, no I'd probably not go to T5's with what you have, but I may supplement with some high power LED's, but that depends on what you're planning on spending and again on what you want to grow. Depends also on what room you have left in your hood.

+1 except I would opt for a co2 cylinder instead of the fe. I have purchased 2 2kgs for £10 each recently.

 

[mattlee]

cheers guys

are there any items in the list that i can get better quality of. i would rather buy best and avoid any rubbish if you get me..........

i have a mate who works at air products so would a CO2 bottle from them be better than the FE?

 

[tribalbrit]

I would get a cylinder if you can.fe's are ok but made for a different purpose, I dont like the idea of having to tape the valve open.

Most of my equipment is the jbl stuff and I haven't had any problems in the past 3 years that its been running.

keep your eye out on the bay and AC. there are bargins to be had. I bought a full kit inc 500g cylinder for £75

 

[DrRob]

I got my kit from lunapets in Germany and it's been great, but they've stopped selling a lot of the bits in favour of their complete kits, plus the exchange rate isn't so good now.

A fire extinguisher is a CO2 cylinder with a tube in it and a sideways valve with a hose. There's no difference between a lever valve and a gate valve on a standard cylinder that can't be dealt with by taping a FE's handles together.

Overall, get whatever you can for a sensible price. I got FE's because they were cheapest at the time.

Bits I've found of low quality are check valves (I forgot to mention these, you'll want one between the tank and the bubble counter, CO2 tends to dissolve in water when it's off, which pulls the water back into the tubes), diffusers and bubble counters. People get very excited about needle valves but you pay a LOT for a good one and the usual ones are generally fine.

 

[FishFanatic04]

I love that I got myself a co2 cylinder instead of an FE. IF you don't mind the extra few bucks, it's really worth it. Now when I need a refill, I pop in my welding supply and less then THREE minutes later I walk out with a full cylinder. They just swap it out. Then you are guaranteed to always have an inspected canister which is safer, and the threads and are in good shape.

Make sure as well to get "true" co2 proof tubing. Airline tubing will leak and certain silicone ones are labeled as co2 proof but will leak as well. I have some very stiff black tubing which hides well in the tank.

Welcome to the dark side

 

[DrRob]

+1 on the tubing.

Probably worth looking around locally and finding out what the refill options are. That also helped my decision, as the local welding place is a fair distance away and I can get the FE's swapped out at work.

 

[mattlee]

would this regulator be ok? it has needle valve and bubble counter built in
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-CO2-Solenoid-Regulator-Bubble-Counter-Check-Valve-Multi-Color-DC02-04-/221020154513?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item3375d3ea91

 

[minnnt]

Just be aware that it is going to lower your ph considerably mate. Don't want anything to happen to your beautiful angels.

 

[mattlee]

Just be aware that it is going to lower your ph considerably mate. Don't want anything to happen to your beautiful angels.

ooooh didnt think of that..... how much lower will it go?

would a diffuser at each end of the tank be of any advantage or not?

 

[minnnt]

7.6 to 6.4

Unsure on diffuser, a good flow is the best way to get it around the tank. If you add a powerhead, make sure its going the same way as the filter outlet is flowing. Opposite flow will force the co2 out the tank.

 

[mattlee]

thats a pretty big pH reduction

would this happen gradually or pretty fast? if gradually i guess it wont be too much of an issue. when did you retest the pH minnnt? how long after adding CO2?

if the drop in pH is so much will a 50% water change once a week adding water of pH 7.6 to a tank of say 6.4 as minnnts is give the fish a pH shock?

also if the CO2 is set on a timer would the pH gradually rise again as the CO2 is used or lost?

the last thing i want is a fluctuating Ph level......