90g Planted Aquarium Journal

[OldTimeFisher]

This thread is my 90g aquarium journal.
After having it setup as a saltwater reef tank for the last 15 years, my wife and I wanted to get back into the freshwater side of the hobby.

After 3 weeks of taking the reef tank down, cleaning the aquarium, preforming a leak test and then putting in the substrate and hard scape, I finally was able to get the plants planted and water in today.
I also added API tap water conditioner.

I am running 2 Eheim 200w submersible heaters.
Filtration is a Fluval FX4 Canister filter.
Lighting is the 48" Fluval 3.0 Plant LED

The aquarium is 90 gallons or 340.7 liters
Inside tank dimensions are 47" L x 17.25" D x 24" H

Substrate is river gravel that's contained in 6 nylon laundry bags with plastic zippers. The bags of gravel are capped with 2 to 3 inches of quikrete play sand.

I am doing a 4 to 6 week silent plant cycle. After this time period if the plants are exhibiting favorable growth, I will then start adding fish from my fish list, which I will list in this thread in the up coming weeks.

Temp 78
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
KH - 8
GH - 2
Ca - 20
Tap water pH 8.7
(I will test the aquarium pH tomorrow, after 24 hours)

 

[OldTimeFisher]

After 24 hours, the aquarium pH is at 7.9 down from 8.7 yesterday.
@Byron, as you have suggested in my "Tap water testing result thread", the pH looks to be settling out at 7.9 with the help of the driftwood and possibly the substrate. The API Tap Water Conditioner may have played a part in this as well.

I forgot to mention the lighting duration and intensity in post #1. So my lighting plan for the next 4 to 6 weeks is as follows;

Lighting duration and intensity for the first 2 weeks;
Sunrise and sunset at 1.5 hours long.
Day time at 5 hours long for the first 2 weeks. Duration will be increased by 1 hour in weeks 3 and 4 up to a max of 7 hours per day.

Intensity % as follows;
All whites (Cold, Pure and Warm) at 75%, pink/red at 60% and blue at 2%.
The goal is after 2 weeks, if the plants are growing and there is minimal algae growth, I will increase the whites and pink/red by 5% increments per week until the whites are at 95% and pink/red is at 85%. The blue by 1% increments per week until 4 to 5% is obtained.
If I start to see a fair amount of algae growth, then the lighting duration and intensity will be cut back as needed until the algae is under control.
I also will be preforming 50 to 60% water changes three times a week or more often as needed for a month. Then I will cut back to a weekly regiment of 50 to 60% WC. (This is subject to change dependent upon water parameters)

I should also mention that no fish will be added until the aquarium is stabilized. I'm prepared to wait for what ever duration this takes before adding any fish.

Any advice to alter or amend this plan is welcomed.
Would love to hear from the more experienced group here of any thoughts on my plans to stabilize the aquarium.
Thanks!

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Below is my intended fish stocking list for my fully planted 90g aquarium.
Inside tank dimensions are 47" L x 17.25" D x 24" H
Substrate is river gravel that's contained in 6 nylon laundry bags with plastic zippers. The bags of gravel are capped with 2 to 3 inches of quikrete play sand.
I still have 4 to 6 weeks before I will be ready to start adding fish. Not all the fish will be added at the same time but over the course of a few months as tank parameters warrant.
Let me know what you guys think please. Thanks

3 - Mikrogeophagus altispinosus / Bolivian Ram
10 - Hyphessobrycon amandae / Ember Tetra
8 - Nannostomus trifasciatus / Three Line Pencilfish
10 - Hasemania nana / Silver Tip Tetra
10 - Paracheirodon axelrodi / Cardinal Tetra
10 - Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis / Lemon Tetra
10 - Thayeria boehlkei / Penguin Tetra

 

[Rocky998]

After 24 hours, the aquarium pH is at 7.9 down from 8.7 yesterday.
@Byron, as you have suggested in my "Tap water testing result thread", the pH looks to be settling out at 7.9 with the help of the driftwood and possibly the substrate. The API Tap Water Conditioner may have played a part in this as well.

I forgot to mention the lighting duration and intensity in post #1. So my lighting plan for the next 4 to 6 weeks is as follows;

Lighting duration and intensity for the first 2 weeks;
Sunrise and sunset at 1.5 hours long.
Day time at 5 hours long for the first 2 weeks. Duration will be increased by 1 hour in weeks 3 and 4 up to a max of 7 hours per day.

Intensity % as follows;
All whites (Cold, Pure and Warm) at 75%, pink/red at 60% and blue at 2%.
The goal is after 2 weeks, if the plants are growing and there is minimal algae growth, I will increase the whites and pink/red by 5% increments per week until the whites are at 95% and pink/red is at 85%. The blue by 1% increments per week until 4 to 5% is obtained.
If I start to see a fair amount of algae growth, then the lighting duration and intensity will be cut back as needed until the algae is under control.
I also will be preforming 50 to 60% water changes three times a week or more often as needed for a month. Then I will cut back to a weekly regiment of 50 to 60% WC. (This is subject to change dependent upon water parameters)

I should also mention that no fish will be added until the aquarium is stabilized. I'm prepared to wait for what ever duration this takes before adding any fish.

Any advice to alter or amend this plan is welcomed.
Would love to hear from the more experienced group here of any thoughts on my plans to stabilize the aquarium.
Thanks!

Sounds like, from what I've read, you know your stuff! How do you plan on cycling the tank though? Do you have a ton of fast growing plants for a plant cycle or are you going to do an ammonia cycle?

 

[OldTimeFisher]

There are plenty of fast growing Amazon Swords, Java Ferns and Phyllanthus Fluitans Red Root Floaters. I'm presently doing a 6 week silent plant cycle. I also have a lot of slow growing plants as well. Crypts and Anubias. This Wednesday I will take delivery of 2 Nymphaea Red Tiger Lotus Lilly's and some Dwarf Sagittaria Subulata. I will not be using any ammonia.

 

[Rocky998]

There are plenty of fast growing Amazon Swords, Java Ferns and Phyllanthus Fluitans Red Root Floaters. I'm presently doing a 6 week silent plant cycle. I also have a lot of slow growing plants as well. Crypts and Anubias. This Wednesday I will take delivery of 2 Nymphaea Red Tiger Lotus Lilly's and some Dwarf Sagittaria Subulata. I will not be using any ammonia.

Sounds like its going to be a beautiful tank! Can't wait to see it when it comes together...

 

[Rocky998]

Also, just a thought but maybe you should take off one or two schooling fish and add on to others. The bigger the schools the more vibrant those fish will be and they will feel more comfortable in the tank. You could also add some small kuhli loaches. They look really cool and they should get along with the rams. (This is just an idea you don't HAVE to do it)

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Today I have signs of my tank going through its natural silent plant cycle. White bacterial fungus has started growing on the drift wood. Although unsightly as it is, it will eventually die off in a week or 2. I did a 60% water change today and I also have noticed that my Phyllanthus Fluitans Red Root Floater, Amazon Swords and Java Ferns all have new growth starting to emerge. This is a good sign that the cycle is going well.
Ammonia, Nitrates and Nitrates are still at 0.0 as of today. The pH is holding at 7.9 and Temp is steady at 79° F.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

@Byron, any thoughts on my intended fish list. I would really like to know if you see any issues with it. Thanks

 

[Byron]

@Byron, any thoughts on my intended fish list. I would really like to know if you see any issues with it. Thanks

Yes, I do see some issues. First, Nannostomus trifasciatus is one of the more feisty (= aggressive) pencilfish, on an equal footing with N. beckfordi. I had to put these two species together because in their own tanks they continually nipped any surface fish (my hatchetfish for one, and even otos). You have Penguin Tetras which are surface fish, so I would re-think the pencils. Nanostomus marginatus, N. mortenthaleri, N. rubrocaudatus are good for some nice red (much more on the N. mortenthaleri), or N. espei if you can find them, I haven't seen these since the 1980's.

This is a largish tank, so increase the numbers of any shoaling fish you decide on. The pencils for instance, around 15. I would leave out the Silvertips due to fin nipping, though with enough of them that might not be an issue, but I don't like risks. The Embers will be lost here, but if you want them, 20-25 would be a better number.

Now the rams, this is an unknown. A male will certainly see this tank as "his" space. He may bond with a female if he select her from a group of the fish. Other males and females will be seen as intruders and dangers, especially (but not only) when the pair spawn.

Floating plants are needed for most of these fish or they will be stressed and less colourful, and tend to stay near the bottom.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

I will scratch off the Silvertips then. I agree that I don't want the risk. I will also scratch the Embers and increase the amount of the other Tetras.

Nanostomus marginatus, N. mortenthaleri, N. rubrocaudatus are good for some nice red (much more on the N. mortenthaleri)

Would the Penguin fish be ok with any of the Pencilfish you listed Byron?

Now the rams, this is an unknown. A male will certainly see this tank as "his" space. He may bond with a female if he select her from a group of the fish. Other males and females will be seen as intruders and dangers, especially (but not only) when the pair spawn.

I will rethink the Bolivian Ram then.
What other South America fish would you suggest to replace the Ram with as a Centerpiece fish?

Floating plants are needed for most of these fish or they will be stressed and less colourful, and tend to stay near the bottom.

I do have Phyllanthus Fluitans Red Root Floaters and Water Wisteria/Hygrophila Difformis which is a Water sprite.

 

[Byron]

Would the Penguin fish be ok with any of the Pencilfish you listed Byron?

Yes, those four pencilfish species are quite peaceful. So are the two others that are less colourful and swim at an angle, N. eques and N. unifasciatus, but you have the penguins providing this aspect at the surface.

I will rethink the Bolivian Ram then.
What other South America fish would you suggest to replace the Ram with as a Centerpiece fish?

I tend to use slightly larger shoaling species for this. Like the Bleeding Heart Tetra. Mid-water, colourful. Or perhaps gourami, if species is carefully selected.

 

[OldTimeFisher]

Thanks @Byron. You have been very helpful. I think that I may forego the Pencilfish and stay with a school of Penguin Tetras. And I do like the Bleeding Hearts also!

 

[OldTimeFisher]

I have another question @Byron. Would Poecilia winggei / Endlers be an option for me?

 

[Byron]

I have another question @Byron. Would Poecilia winggei / Endlers be an option for me?

No. The GH is way too low, at least in my view for long-term well being. I was given a pair some years ago, and having no where else I put them in my QT tank (used for new fish acquisitions so it is planted, permanently running) and they did last several months in spite of my soft water, but I would not have done this deliberately.