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Up your water change regime.. I usually find that large frequent water changes clear up most of my problems..... :)

LOL.. also if you keeping feeding them algae wafers, then they just eat them and ignore the algae!!

Water changes will also add vital minerals that fish require. With an over populated tank like that, i would suggest 25 % weekly as a minimum.. Personally i try not to let my nitrates get above 25, but i keep discus!?? At the end of the day it is personnal preference, but it can't hurt to be...

I brought 2 zebra? shrimp they spawned and all of a sudden i had about 50 shrimp!! My discus ate alot, but i reckon i still have well over 20!! They keep my plants spotless.. I used to have hair alf=gae but its all gone now... And they r definately interesting to watch!!

No problems with mine so far, despite dropping the lighting unit into the tank!!

you have perfectly normal readings.. (thats what my readings are..) :D

Gourami's will be fine with smaller fish (in fact most large fish prefer a shoal of smaller fish around, as it means there are no predators about..) True SAE's are not agressive, false SAE's are... Regards Kribs and Rams, i would not keep them together as i believe they have different water...

Increase the cardinals to a minimum of 20 (they look stunning when in a large group!), then add some gourami's. I would also consider a ancistrus cat fish for the bottom (but then again i just love em!!).. That will cover all 3 levels...

Regards keeping discus, they are shoaling fish and are best kept in groups of at least 6, unless you have a proven pair, which are best kept on there own... If this is ur first venture into discus, then i strongly advise to do a bit of reading as they are trickier than other tropicals to keep...

GH and KH are the hardness tests for the water. General hardness and Carbonate hardness. If your gh and kh are too low then you have no buffering capacity for your ph so it will crash. Take gh, kh and ph readings straight out of the tap, then again 24 hrs later as fishsmurf suggested. Post...

Unless of course you use a UG filter :P :D :lol: :lol:

You still have nitrites, so the cycle hasn't finished yet. Leave be until the cycle has finished (zero ammonia and zero nitrItes), then, post ur water results (ph, kh, gh) and we can advise you on the rest.. I personnaly do not use ph adjusters if i can help it...

Looks really good!! Can you come and do mine?? :P

Just to reinforce whats been said... If you keep adding the ammo lock, then you remove the ammonia. This stops the filter developing the bacteria colonies required to convert the ammonia into nitrite.. This then means there is no nitrite, so the bvacteria that converts the nitrite to nitrate...

There are loads of products out there to help cycle a tank, the one i use is bio start. Add this, add some food each day and just monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings! I would also do this on your troublesome tanks rather than try and complete the cycle with fish in it! Good luck!

Add to that i would also add bio start, to help speed up the recycle proccess of the tank.. You may need to perform water changes every other day to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels d own. (remember to use dechlorinated water).

If it is a miny cycle, by adding ammo lock u are stopping the cycle, and therefore will not get nitrites or nitrates. A cycle works as follows.. (hope i am not offending u with this if you already know it!) Fish produce waste (ammonia) The bacteria that developes in ur filter breaks the...

Does it have a reflector? If not can you add one? (always make one out of kitchen foil?) Just a thought..

Ummm dunno m8.. whenever i use it i add an airstone, so if the surface does get cloudy, i wouldn't see it..... Try adding an airstone for a bit of surface agitation, that will get rid of it...

If you use ammonia rmover then it removes the ammonia by converting it into something else. Most ammonia kits will still read ammonia! Best bet is to perform 30% water changes everyday (with dechlorinated water) for a week. Also add carbon to help remove the chemicals you added. At that...

Personnally i would not cycle a tank with fish. I set up my tank, add food to the tank, (which decomposes and produces ammonia.. ) and add bio start to speed up the proccess. When the tank is cylced, then i perform a water change and add a few fish each week! Once i start adding fish i change...

What size angels are they? If they are juveniles, then you should be ok for a bit. (but watch the betta.) the betta may start nipping the angels fins, or vice a versa. If they are adults, then you are very lucky. Most adult angels become agressive to smaller fish, especially if they pair...

As a general rule, i use 2 watts per gallon. I always add reflectors!

Angels require similar water conditions to discus.. Ie. approx a minimum of 10 gallons per adult angel. They will grow large very quickly! They will also fight with a betta.. (and if they are adult, win.) They should not be house with fish that will nip there fins, nor over agressive fish...

Gotta be discus every time!! With a shoal of about 30 cardinal tetras.. (planted tank of course!) :D

Also, Melafix reduces the oxgen conten of the water. Keep an eye on the fish, if they are gasping add an airstone.

Ur biggest problem IMO was adding fish before the tank was cycled! I do notuse fish to cycle a tank, but never mind. too late for that now. First off, you need to understand the cycling process. Fish, produce fish waste (ammonia) bacteria in the filter changes the ammonia to less harmful...

I don't know the size of your grandads tank, but there are many plecs that only grow to 5 or 5 inches, or a bristlenose cat....

Depends what algae you have. A small group of otocinclus (minimum of 6) would do well, or if you want something special, i would get a bristle nose ancistrus... If its thread algae, then a SAE would be good...

I voted Cichlids, as my main love is discus! They are amazing fish to keep!! Although saying that, i love any kind of cat fish.. they just seem to ooze character!!

Sounds like the tank is mid cycle.. What are ur ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings?

Basic test kits for any fish keeper... ammonia nitrite ph Extras nitrate gh kh I would always have the top 3, and possibly the nitrate if possible. You need to know that your tank has cycled and that ur filter is functioning properely...

You should have zero ammonia in the water!!! Any ammount of ammonia is deadly to fish. Get a test kit that also checks nitrite and nitrate. But it seems to me as if your tank has not been cycled.

Just a thought, what are your ammonia readings? Also, are you useing a dechlorinator when you perform water changes? If not the chlorine in the tap water will kill all the beneficial bacteria and ur back to square 1....

Hi, its normally recommended for adult angels to have at least 10 gallon each. So if you keep more than 6 whan young, be prepared to move some as they get older and larger.

Its a good idea to add more bio life every water change if cycling with fish. It will decrease the tank cycling time.

Hey!!! I raised that point on my first post!!! LOL :D

Cracken.. Your tank is mid cycle still. The nitrite is deadly to fish... Are you adding any bio life (filter bacteria).. If not, get some... Do as suggested, cut back on feeding, (less waste produced, therefore less ammonia to be converted into nitrite), and increase the water change...

Try looking here for more info on cycling a tank.. cycling

If your light is not bright enough for the plats (or producing the right spectrum) then adding co2 will just cause algae.. You need to get the balance right, ie fertiliser, co2 and light. Plant growth will be limited by the which ever is the least abundant. I have 80watts of light to a 30...