Search results

Hi, try having a look at this, it lists most types of rocks and their suitability for the aquarium. Rock types

Hi Memz, like Fluttermouth says, hardness is an important parameter in the water and you could really do with getting a GH/KH test kit to see how hard your water is. You say you get furred up kettles and scum in tea, this would suggest a fairly high hardness reading and this could potentially...

Did anyone go today and are still sober enough to reply

Just found this on PFK forum all about supplementary vitamin and minerals My link

Looking at the ingredients they all appear to be much the same. As to whether it has helped, all I can say is that I have never had any Ich or other nasties in there and all my fish are vibrant and active. This said, this could be down to numerous factors, but I for for one will continue...

+1 I really wanted rams so a pH of 8.2 and a GH of 15 had to change, RO was the least damaging way of bringing it down

I had the same issue but now use half and half Tap and RO. Stable pH at 6.8 and a GH of 6. I actually buy my RO from the LFS but may by an RO unit. I think you should do all you can to avoid buying pH buffers

Unfortunately the media doesn't fit. They are still happy, and the rams have spawned yet again, so it can't be that bad.

I must admit, I have dosed my tank religiously every week with eSHa Minaroll, which is a vitamin and mineral supplement.

I have seeded the new filter by putting a quarter chunk of media in the U4 media cage. The plan is to leave the U4 running for about a month, then remove one sponge from the Aquael to increase the U4 bacteria count again, then remove the Aquael filter after another month. This is probably...

Lovely looking fish, I can only get as far as eggs but one day the rams and gouramis may go theand get to the fry stage. Here's some ransoms Shrimpage More shrimpage helping when an algae outbreak GBR Colombiam Tetra Zebra Danio

Thanks guys. The unfilter flow is mid level back of tank, and the U4 is on setting B also at the back of tank. The koralia is facing diagonally down at the front. At the moment, there is little flow at front middle to top, which is where the gouramis usually hang about so I am keeping an eye on...

Hi all, I have just put a fluval U4 in my 200 litre tank in addition to a aquael unifilter 750, and a koralia 1600. This gives me a combined flow of 3350 lph, of which 1750 lph is filtered. Is this too much? I'm keeping an eye on the fish, but at the moment everything looks ok. Advice please.

I guess we're agreeing in some respects here, however I personally would not subject an entire tank to meds if one fish had one spot. If I had a quarantine tank I would, but not in a community until I saw signs of it getting worse, which thankfully hasn't happened yet

Personally, IMO, I would not treat a tank for Ich because one fish had one white spot. A healthy fish should have no problem fighting this off himself. I would keep an eye on the inhabitants and if this fish gets more spots or other fish start to show, then start to dose

Mine tends to do this when he is building a bubble nest. Have you noticed any bubbles at the top of the tank?

Cheers Ianho, my scientific brain likes that explanation. So in a nutshell, leave the deep substrate alone and let the plants do there thing. The corys turn the top layers over anyway Sounds right to me, and the sulphur will be mostly gaseous and leach to atmosphere through the water column...

Thanks for this Primous, does the root stock absorb nutrients from the anaerobic areas as they pass through and therefore get rid of them?

A household scale remover that is hydrochloric aside based would do the job. Just be sure to thoroughly clean if you do use it. Viakal would be a good one to use Just found the topic about rocks My link

Like you, I take time to get the majority off before planting, but there is usually a bit left on. Its these little bits mixed with rotting roots that are the problem. Anyway, the fish seem fine, and that's all that matters.

Thanks all, I usually turn the top cm or so of substrate but this time I went deeper as I noticed some old dead roots coming out of the sand. It is definitely hydrogen sulphide, which can kill humans as a gas in large enough quantity, but I do not know how it interatcts with water chemistry...

I was having a fairly good clean of the tank today and turning over the substrate quite deep, when I I unearthed some old rock wool from previous plants that have died. I notice that the sand is black around the wool and it can be you can smell it emanating from the waters surface, which is...

Spot on mate. I believe the fluval 305 is 1000 lph so your turn over will be x 5.5

Leave the filter on, the cloudiness will dissipate in a day or two Leave the filter on, the cloudiness will dissipate in a day or two

I have just read about this product, it is a micro and macro Nutrient powder which I don't think you need in your set up, because you are not using compressed CO2 and are not that heavily planted. It may be possible that you have too much fert in there causing the algae and not enough light...

Hi, is your tank planted, and if so how densely. You are currently running about 2wpg on the lighting with t5's if the tank is newish, so this is not a low light tank and you should be using ferts. I have had the same issue in the past and what cured it for me was fertilising the plants to...

I can't see why it wouldn't be fine but i want to make sure it's ok to fill my sink with dechorinated water and rinse my filter in it. I won't de doing a water change for a few days so i don't want to use tank water EDIT: lol that should say filter in the title

I would love to give this a go, got a few bunches of vallisneria Gigantea if your interested

+1 I always do that, firstly because the smell suggests some toxins and secondly to get rid of the crud. I pour them straight into a plastic tea sieve, then empty the contents into a tumbler of tank water

I feed mine live once or twice a week. Either daphnia, bloodworm, tubifex or white worm, the fish love it. Slightly off topic, but I add a lot of live tubifex as they bury into the sand and keep the corys amused for hours hunting them out. This helps turn over the substrate, and as they are...

Unfortunately it's a case of RIP EBR this morning, pretty gutted about it. As much as I love these fish I am pretty put off getting anymore

Just noticed that, I thought it was a rock. Yeah, definitely time for the nostalgic ship to go.

Looks really good IMO. I prefer just the sand substrate, mainly for the benefit of the corys, but this is nice. What size is it

Yeah, i did think about that, but I am little conscious about adding anything that might alter my water chemistry. I don't want to harden my water anymore than it is and I am not sure what rocks are truly inert. Ideas??

Are the sig pic and the main pic the same tank at different times, if so which is current

Thanks again both of you, I may have to flip a coin. I won't be planting until my bargain wood becomes waterlogged, 10 days in the bath and dish washer and still shows no sign of sinking.

Definitely, but no LFS near home or work sell live food. The LFS I use does sell live but is unfortunately 30 miles away and well closed by the time I get out of work. The wife has a day off tomorrow and will get some, if he gets through the night?

When I originally set the tank up it was 25 degrees, but I increased this to 27 when I introduced the GBR's. I believe this to be an acceptable temp, but I did double check the thermometer reading with the wifes electronic cooking probe (sshhhh) all over the tank in case there were cold spots...

Hi, I usually leave the bag until it reaches temp, then add a quarter of a cup of tank water every 15 mins for an hour, then a full cup, then another 15 minutes later. Usually takes me approx 2hrs before releasing, which I think is ok but stand to be corrected

Update: He is still with us this morning but doesn't appear to have eaten much, if anything overnight. But it is positive so far, we'll see how he does today