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They do best in shoals, and when I last saw 10 in an 8 ft tank, they were actively schooling. Volume does not help, it's the dimensions that matter :) I would personally want at least a 6*1.5*1.5 ft tank based on their behaviour when I have seen them. Shouldn't be. You will have to feed them...

If you need a tester… :rolleyes:

Have you considered cutting down on the feeding to once every 2-3 days? That would reduce the amount of ammonia going into the water, which in turn would reduce the nitrite that is produced. Can we see a photo? I am wondering if you have any non-aquatic plants in there that might be rotting and...

Doing water changes to keep nitrite as close to 0 ppm as possible and never letting it *reach* 0.25 ppm. I very strongly advise you to never wait until 0.25 ppm before doing a water change because that just increases the risk to your fish. Do the water changes regularly and eventually, your...

It is most likely a leucistic (or even maybe an albino) half-black blue. Alternatively, it could be just an AOC or even something more unusual like a Japan blue.

Can you describe the colouration?

What they said is not the cause of the problem. The problem is that fish-in cycles are slow. Yes, they are slow most likely because lower concentrations of ammonia and nitrite are involved, but the alternative is harming animals, which I cannot support in any way and this is why I almost always...

Plants are not really for air… In most tanks, their primary purposes are to provide cover for the fish and keep nitrate in check. If you're going to have a long spray bar along the back of the tank, then why not plug one filter outlet into each end of it? Then you won't need an end cap for the...

Why would you want to convert? And given that I do not have an Android, nor an iOS, device, (nor a Windows one,) would you consider making a Linux app for the live view?

I recommend against one intake because any tank big enough to really benefit from two filters will also (most likely) benefit considerably from two intakes in different locations and it would be "more work" for the filters to pull in water through a narrower intake. For the spray bar, I am...

It sounds like Physa spp., it's a nicer genus than most as they seem to kinda control their own populations.

smellie92, from Fishy friend2's first post, did you see any potential causes for the problem? It mentioned various stress inducing factors like stocking, environment, water parameters, fast acclimatisation, etc.

I did at one point consider a fully automated fish room (automated water changes, automates parameter readings, etc), but the cost was a bit prohibiting (and the lack of space was also a bit of a stopper). I would be very interested in something that I can drop into the tank that will record...

Well done for choosing a fish-less cycle :good: You might want to hold back on that CO2 until the cycle is done, which, incidentally, you can speed up by seeding your filter, and in case you don't know anyone with a mature filter, there are lots of media donors on here :good:

It looks like bacterial, fungal and fin-rot. What Fishy friend2 said about the causes. I recommend an anti-microbial medication as a treatment because there are multiple infections and fixing the cause as the long term solution. I prefer to use eSHa 2000, but any medication that claims to kill...

Got the payment, thanks! They'll be on their way first thing tomorrow :good: I'm a bit of a sucker for Anubias too, that's why I've got so many :rolleyes:

Yep, still available and I'll put it aside for you. The Egaria/Elodea might technically be Hydrilla and Lagarosiphon, but I've not tried to get a positive ID on them yet and won't have time to do that today :( Ideally, I'd like to send the plants out tomorrow, but I won't be around later today...

55 cm front to back, on average, which was around 50 at the sides and 60 in the middle on my old tank or similar dimensions.

Plant list updated :good: See first post: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/388983-crypt-wendtii-brown-anubias-gilletii-elodea-spp-and-lotuses/page__view__findpost__p__3268658

I consider 6 to be an absolute minimum for any shoal or school, and I personally prefer to not keep fish in groups of under 10 if they're schooling. Also, it's probably worth keeping in mind that H. rodwayi reportedly live for only 3-5 years, so if he's already an old fish… Have you gotten a...

Keep your hat on! ;) Hemigrammus rodwayi? If it's a tetra, it probably was not getting along with others because it was kept on its own or with too few others of its own kind. Get it into a nice shoal of 10-15+, and it should behave quite well.

Keep in mind that my knowledge of such things is quite lacking… given that it's a sword, wouldn't the problem be lack of iron?

Well, yes, if one starts with two filters, then removes one, one is left with fewer bacteria for a period of time. That's why I'm saying keep all the bacteria in one filter, so that the OP does not loose any when they remove the old filter. Keeping both filters running long term does provide...

6+ weeks is ideal, as it would take a similar amount of time as a cycle, but as the others said, moving all old media into the new filter is a better option.

On the off chance that someone might be swapping their bulbs around now… Item wanted: 14/21/28/35W actinic/marine blue/purpe/pink T5 bulb(s), ideally I'm after a 35W or two 28W marine hybrids by Arcadia Condition required: used Location: can pick a lot of places around East Anglia and south...

I've got some: 2.50 per 10 plants, postage is 1.65 for 20, PM me if you're interested at those prices!

I've got some! 75p per plant most are 10-15 inches tall), postage is 1.65, so 7.65 in total. PM me if you're happy with that :good:

If you have an airstone, it will not make any difference to air circulation at all because the airstone brings in air from outside the tank, so will "push out" the used air from the top of the tank past any cover. In a normal aquarium, most of the gas exchange happens when the surface of the...

One method that *from what I have observed* decreases the likelyhood of problems in the cycle is waiting until both ammonia and nitrite drop to 0 ppm before redosing ammonia. This method allows one to monitor nitrite at all times, as normally (when adding more ammonia as soon as it reaches 0...

That depends on your tank… What is your tap water nitrate? What is the tank nitrate? Are your fish young or old? Is the tank heavily or lightly stocked? For the average tank, 15-25% per week seems enough, but if your tank is heavily stocked or has only young fish, then larger water changes...

A "cover glass" (sometimes also referred to as "condensation tray") is a piece of transparent plastic/acrylic or glass that is placed over the opening of the aquarium to prevent evaporation of water, fish from jumping out of the tank and/or to prevent any of the electrical appliances from...

+1 to what fluttermoth said, the only thing I can add to that is that daily water changes would be even better for growth than every other day. As the fry grow, you might find that you need to do larger water changes even in a 10 gallon because they will be producing more waste. It is also best...

What about making up a cover glass for the tank? Some acrylic could work well.

If you can count the individual plants, then it's unlikely that the tank is heavily planted. The sort of heavily planted that I am talking about is when you cannot see the back of the tank from the front because, this would also mean that the fish do not have a clear line of sight from one end...

Coral sand: yes; baking soda: no… because coral sand will release carbonates and minerals continuously, so it will create a stable environment, while baking soda is a "one off" addition, so once it is used up, the pH will crash, which will harm the fish quite a bit more than having a "wrong" pH...

What species are you talking about? There are a number of marine fish by that common name, but I have never heard of a freshwater one :rolleyes:

Does no one keep goldfish here?!? :rolleyes:

One of the things that you can try against dropsy is adding aquarium salt to the water (one tea spoon per gallon to start off with, pre-mix with aquarium water before adding). I, personally, do not like seeing livebearers in water that is as soft as yours is potentially, as it may cause problems.

The point I'm trying to make is that they will probably be more comfortable in a bigger group and will interact with each other and their environment more. They stay together because they are shoaling (and neons are schooling) species; this means that in the wild, they live in groups of around a...

Tap water needs to be stood for 24 hours because of dissolved CO2 (which makes the pH appear lower than it really is), although I have seen a few cases where tap water pH actually rose after 24 hours! Tank water should be tested immediately on taking it, as you want to know the conditions in...