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Add Methylene blue or arciflavine to the hatching tank, to keep fungus from attacking the eggs. Usually milky white means infertile, so keep an eye on them if they don't start to darken in the next few days, they're probably not viable.

Yes, the proposed community will do well. Just expect a shortened life span on the danios.

Best to remove the female or add another one. I have a male by himself in a community, because he harassed his mate to death. The other fish are angels and tetras, he ignores everyone. In a 25 you could have him, 8 von Rio tetras, 6 kuhli loaches and a small pleco (bushynose or froglip).

I love oddball characins and cyprinids, and you have a wonderful collection.

8- green neons 8-10 dwarf chain loaches 6- rocket killies

Cut open the cartridge and dump out the carbon, then replace with fresh carbon after the treatment. Also anytime you medicate you should remove the carbon, whether or not its specified on the packaging.

I agree with star. As for other fish, if you want to stick with cichlids, maybe try one of the apistogrammas or other dwarf species. Or perhaps one of the cryptoheros sp.?

Yes, it would be fine.

Yeah, the common Australian rainbowfish they sale at petsmart are usually $1.99 or on sale for $1.00, at least where I'm at. This is very reasonable, but they are one less colorful rainbows available.

Why not build the tank around them? I would set it up with bog wood and anubias. Then for fish I would do this.... 3- reedfish 6-8 Congo tetras 3-4 African butterflies 4- Synodontis nigriventirs (upside-down cats) Well that's what I'd do. :look:

There are lots of tetras, small barbs, small rainbowfish, dwarf loaches and kuhli loaches, plenty of small catfish that aren't cories. Really depends on what you want to do... A biotope could be done, a species tank, or a community. What interest you most?

Thank you. I will be pruning some fruit trees soon and was thinking of using the branches from those...

Post this in the for sale section.

Pictus should be kept as either a single fish or in a school, of at least 5. As for your Synodontis, he's king of the tank, so all territory is his. It's up to you as to what to do. If the pictus don't look stressed, then I wouldn't worry about it.

Ok, so what I can find is they top out at about 3" SL. I would say a half dozen in a 29 til they pair up should be fine.

Yeah, blue acara and a nice one at that.

Get a Photobucket or Flickr account. Load your photos there, then copy img code and post here.

If the other tank is cycled I would. She will watch the fry up to two months if there are other fish present. The. The male will usually only wait about two weeks before trying to spawn again.

Give her time, they are adjusting to their new tank and should be fine in a week or so.

3" is large enough, she's holding. It's the females that hold, not the males.

Two females. Get yourself a male, longer dorsal and anal fins, no red or pink belly.

75 gallons gives you lots of options, but as asked earlier besides the tiger barbs, what do you like? Bigger fish like cichlids? Community fish like tetras, danios and rainbowfish? Oddballs? The list goes on....

I'd like to enter my male Green Terror Big boy. We'll give him a shot this month...Oh, and please ignore the water stains on the glass. :no: Yes, he and the misses are in with some Malawian cichlids.

Not impossible, but I've never heard of it happening.

Yep, there are even several house plants that can be used that way. Only problem is you can't really keep plants in the aquarium, as the emersed plants will suck up all the nutrients before the aquatic plants can.

No worries.

Looks good. Your multies will love all the extra shells. As for upper level fish, guppies or platies would be a good choice.

Leave them with the parents for two weeks or so. You'll find that the parents will move the fry quite often. Good luck.

All 3 are easy, I used to use convicts as feeders, they would breed almost weekly. I had a large surplus of fry and would feed them to bigger fish when they were 2-3 weeks old.

When you get 3-5 days of consecutive zeros on the ammonia and nitrite, you're good to go.

A general rule of thumb, is 5 watts per gallon. Although my house is always close to 70 deg, so I get away with smaller heaters.

Let me answer before the next bump. :lol: Yes, your stocking looks good. You're a more experienced hobbyist, so a slight, and I do mean slight, over stock will be just fine.

+1

As always beautiful setup. What did you get rid of to set this up? Or did you setup another tank?

Looks to be a female about ready to give birth. As long as her scales aren't sticking out like a pine cone, which it doesn't look like. She should start dropping fry in the next few days.

If you don't have one, you need a heater. 5 watts per gallon and get it back up to 82.

If the tank is decorated with rocks, wood and some plants, a blue acara, a sajica and either a rainbow cichlid, or a small school of medium size tetras. Say 6 bleeding hearts or red eye tetras. That's my thoughts. Maybe wills can chime in on my suggestions.

They may eat them, but rooting around in gravel will damage their snouts, which can lead to bacterial/fungal infections. Sand is a much better substrate for eels.

That temp is a little low, so it may take longer. The eggs would turn milky white if they weren't fertile. Can you get a picture of the eggs?

Looking awesome. As for the quarantine, you would need a mature filter and a heater. Some hiding places that can be easily sterilized, clay pots or pvc pipe works well, would be the only decor needed. Really I only quarantine if the fish look questionable. I always have a 10 gallon with some red...