Search results

Haven't read through this thread but second-hand tanks are far cheaper than new with usually hardly any wear. Good luck with your fishkeeping ventures.

Should be pretty sendy, good luck my dude

Keen to send it deep into some pow, shame im three months from the season lmao

cher

The spinning in circles is a symptom of poisoning. Not many diseases can kill that fast in perfect water conditions, the ones that can are usually pretty obvious.

Odessa barbs are tricky fish when it comes to behaviour, definitely not peaceful fish especially when larger. I have 7 in a 55g over some dark sand and their colours really pop, some days they are truly breathtaking. I have over ten platies and a horde of bristlenoses in there at the moment yet...

@kenkat I wouldn't worry too much that the cycle is going very slowly (the nitrosomonas (ammonia to nitrite) may have more trouble hence the slow cycling and the very low nitrite levels) it's expected in a low pH tank and it may never cycle. I recommend you take @seangee 's advice as you have to...

The main problem is obviously cycle-related not disease-related although a previous weakness may have caused the first death. Although not especially relevant it does raise questions about the tap water treatment process. One small guppy isn't going to make too big of a difference in that size...

I would imagine it'd be strong enough, I think I've seen UV's on 306's. How do you plan on attaching it? The hosing can be a bit of a pain.

IME experience at a high pH (7.8~8.2) tanks cycle very quickly (bb love a pH of 7-8) and almost never shows any nitrite as it goes through the process so quickly. Nitrosomonas bacteria (ammonia to nitrite) may take longer than Nitrobacter (nitrite to nitrate) to colonise, causing these readings...

Sorry, I worded that badly, the nitrogen cycle never skips nitrites although it may seem (only ammonia and nitrate readings). This article sums it all up nicely https://petcentral.chewy.com/the-role-of-ph-in-the-aquarium-nitrogen-cycle/

That's pretty normal for the cycle to "skip" nitrites as it really means it's cycling as it should. Since your pH is quite a bit lower expect some of the ammonia will convert through nitrogen fixation into less harmful ammonium due to the excess of hydrogen ions. Ammonium will generally take...

Seiryu stone (that's what I think it is at least) is similar to metamorphic, marble in how it originates from limestone. Seiryu stone contains calcium carbonate veins which react with excess hydrogen ions. This results in more soluble, calcium bicarbonate to form which will increase the pH of...

You could definitely add some more fish since you should have some pretty decent filtration on it. Since you're sticking with the South American theme stocking small South American Characins would be appropriate. Out of these, most smaller species of tetra would suit best, the high activity...

If you have the pump above the tank the backpressure should be fine in that relatively shallow tank. If it isn't the air pump itself its more likely to be the check valve (some reduce the flow considerably) or a part of the airline tubing. To check this I would disassemble the airline connection...

Oh, you're talking about the air pump. Most cheap pumps don't last very long at all, this would be due to the wearing of the rubber bladder yet it would be strange for it to wear out so fast. Have you checked the back pressure on the pump?

Most times you get a blockage it will be in the media chamber. To test it fiddle around with the media to see if the flow changes.

I dig your explanations bro :thumbs:. However, hydrogen sulfide poisoning is directly linked with eutrophication so just disturbing the substrate won't affect the fish as long as high enough oxygen levels are maintained. Because of this in many Green Aqua videos of re-scapes, they don't move...

For a temporary place, a widish bucket (laundry baskets work well) would be better and cheaper than a tank. They do get a bit stressed out but its fine once they are settled back in.

What does your water parameters look like if you don't mind me asking?

Bro, you be switching to your alt on us :lol:. That's how I changed the substrate on my fry grow-out tank but then again the scape didn't really matter because of this. If you have a spare tank this would be the time to use it.

You do run the risk of aggression with angelfish and I assume three spots yet people have been successful in keeping those two species together in that size aquarium, but it is still isn't advisable by any standard. Both species will become far more aggressive when older as they begin to...

This picture pretty much sums up that website lol. Also, why do they feel the need to state that all their fish are 'PREMIUM'. :/

Good old bristlenose would be an easy option. There are larger more aggressive Synodontis which may fit the bill. Depends on what sort of tankmates you're proposing to live with them. With that size tank, you can open up your options to some smaller central american cichlids and many mbuna.

It definitely sounded like Irodivirus, angelfish can also be affected by it. I would isolate the possibly infected asap.

Your water is very soft, which suits your stocking at the moment yet it is more difficult conditions in terms of upkeep. Sorry, but a 'normal 10 gallon tank' doesn't help me much lol. I should've clarified but the measurements or at least the model will help. Yeah, two of each of those species...

I'm going to make the assumption that your water chemistry matches the requirements for those species. A 10 gallon tank is very vague, could you please specify the dimensions of your tank. Generally speaking for an average ten gallon those fish you're keeping in there at the moment will grow too...

Also since you live in the UK and they're pretty common there, could you please post some pics of the tank?

They still make those filters on the aquaone AR series. They work as an excellent biological filter and can be easily upgraded with a larger powerhead. Flow wise they suffer but the filtration power shouldn't be underestimated.

Is that an Aquaone tank? Just curious due to the curved class and your description of the filter.

As the article suggests there are thick-lipped gourami which are very similar to dwarf gourami, yet it may be possible to get reliable stock. I agree with @Wills it isn't ideal to combine both species in a community setting. It really comes down to what you want from the fish. Kribensis may be...

Before anyone gets too carried away what sort of supplier do you have like a good lfs or just a chain store because that may limit the options you have. I think this article https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/lets-hear-it-for-the-dwarf-gourami/ may help with your gourami choosing...

I meant to test the hardness of the mixed water to see if it was where you wanted it lol but that's a good point

Buying a 'algae eater' usually perceived as bristlenose, farowella, all the options above which are good (I would tend to stay away from chinese algae eaters) but at the end of the day they are all poop machines and will add a considerable bioload onto your tank, don't touch most algae (however...

I made my own net, similar in design as a net used to catch fish. It was pretty cool as it aged and algae grew on it giving the fry a food source. This net was big too, took up a fifth of the 55 (why I eventually took it out when I had a spare tank). When constructing it is good to keep in mind...

Theortically sounds good but its always good to test it before you use it, great news you've found a source of RO water :).

Your setup is perfect btw, much more effective than buying a canister with it inbuilt :thumbs:

You definitely have more options than just bettas. Hara jerdoni, The Asian Stone Catfish would definitely suit your tank whilst being inactive and very small at 3cm fully grown. A school of Chili rasbora may be pushing it same with CPD (depending on your dimensions). However, Neon Blue Rasbora...

How black you thinking of going?