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Wait, I thought everyone was from the US :huh: My bad (American) :lol:

I can't recall the name. Here are a few, no parks but a couple of Wildlife Refuges https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/the-most-isolated-uninhabited-or-least-inhabited-territories-of-the-us.html

Isn't there a Nat'l park on some uninhabited territorial island? I seem to recall reading about that somewhere.

Are you feeding the bacteria as outlined in the link?

If you have nitrite, that means that you have some bacteria converting ammonia to nitrite. If your nitrate is higher than tap levels, you also have that bacteria present and are on your way to cycling your tank. Patience is a virtue here.

What is your ammonia & nitrite level?

Welcome to TFF! Without live plants, any nitrate must be removed via Water Changes (WC), which you should do once your tank is stocked. Have you tested your tap water after letting it sit for 24 hrs? What are your actual tank water parameters?

Indeed, both of our children have Neanderthal DNA. I'm waiting for my results.

I like Bamboo along with my Pothos, at some point I'll branch out ( :D ) since I have a 125 g

I just looked at price. Obviously you don't want anything other than pure poly-fiber, no additives, but I think they are all like that.

It will likely last for years since you have such a small filter.

My batting picks up things the sponge misses, I notice (subjectively) clearer water, especially looking lengthwise. Might not matter much for a nano tank though.

I may have mentioned this before, but the reason you want the bio-rings last is because their only purpose is to house bacteria, they have fine pores that are difficult to clean, and you want them to easily pass water through them. Therefore you want the cleanest water to pass through them.

You can also plumb a feedback loop from the outlet back to the inlet with a valve to regulate the feedback. Close the valve and you will get max output, open the valve and you will get minimum output flow. The pump will be running at its designed throughput in either case. This will also...

Here is my thought. Batting or floss on top. You want the coarser filter first to block the large particles which would quickly clog the finer floss/batting impeding water flow. I find that if there is bio-rings on top of the batting, when the batting begins to become clogged with finer...

The only time fuel is dumped is in the event of an emergency and the gross weight is greater than max landing weight, or possibly if weight needs to be reduced due to the emergency landing runway is too short for the gross weight, density altitude, weather and runway conditions. This is very rare.

A rough sketch, batting is yellow, bio-foam black

I'm not in the UK so I can't advise on material source. That being said, your flow rate will be approximately 56% of the original. You need to be careful that you do not reduce the inlet pressure to the impeller too much as this can cause cavitation and impeller damage.

Cut the batting so it lays horizontally flat on top of the bio-foam. I use 2-4 layers. You can also cut a longer piece and fold in half to save cutting. You then place the rings on top of the batting which will hold it in place.

I contain mine between the foam on bottom and the rings on top. The weight of the rings holds the poly down.

Inexpensive, I think I have Fluval, they last forever. You only have 5 gallons, I have 125. I probably have 2 or 3 cups of rings.

I use something like this for the poly batting https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Batting-Fillings-Forms/Batting/Ultra-Fine-Quilt-Batting---Crib/p/36439

I would think that it will house more bacteria than the cartridge. You can always add more later. Your LFS/LPS may have bags and rings too, but $2 is pretty cheap. Do not replace as the website or instructions may advise. Not only does it make them more money, but it can cause an ammonia...

Hanging on in quiet desperation is the English way ...

I never rinse mine, unless I see some mulm on them. I just take them out, rinse the sponge, pitch the poly, put in new poly and drop the rings on top. I believe that you need to remove the carbon while dosing, When treatment is complete you can use it to help remove any meds after the WC.

They don't need to be, but in your case I would highly recommend it. It makes fishing them out for poly change and filter cleaning much easier. I scoop mine out by hand but have a 4x10" area that I can reach into. With a bag you just reach in and pull them all out at once.

There shouldn't be any debris or plant material. You just have the roots in the water. You don't need carbon, unless you are trying to remove medications. Cartridges are like ink cartridges for printers, they make money for the vendor, and in this case there are cheaper alternatives. The...

Sorry to hear about your troubles, I'm nibbling at the same problem, sometimes I forget to cycle lights or feed due to being overloaded. Do an 80% WC, that should reduce your nitrate to ~ 5ppm and also bring your pH to near tap water level.

Depending on the construction of the filter box, you may be able to stuff a bunch of media in it, or if it were me use it for riparian root area (pothos/bamboo et. al.) to keep nitrates down.

At least that is my best guess, if there were engineering drawing available I could tell you for certain. The assembly/use instructions & illustrations are not very good.

Under the cartridge, in the carrier

These will hold up longer and probably have more surface area

Alternatively, you could stuff a few plastic scrubbers in place of the foam, or cut some foam to fit once you can measure the size needed.

Here is the part ML90626-00 that is listed in your instruction manual https://cart.upgpet.com/marineland/home/parts/aquarium-kit-parts/contour-portrait-and-silhouette-kit-parts/bio-foam-for-contour-and-silhouette-kits.aspx I would put that in, continue to run the cartridge for a month...