Did anybody ever used this ?

Had anybody used this before ? If so, is it good n safe to use ?

I haven't used it, because I would see it as an emergency system only. And the emergency would have been created by my being disorganized or inattentive to begin with.

If you do your homework and don't overstock, if you don't overfeed, and if you do regular water changes of a decent volume (I do at least 30% every week), such products aren't needed. In rare cases, people get polluted water from the tap, with ammonia included. That makes fishkeeping really difficult and expensive.
I hope you don't have that issue.
But if you don't, there's nothing that product or its competitors will do that a water change won't. Chemical fixes are short term, and water changes are a much better option.
Cheaper too, and better for the fish.

The thread double posted, and in the second, deleted version, you said you had done a water change. So now, you need to do a test of the tap outside the aquarium, to see if you have a tap water problem.

Ok I will right now

Any time ammonia is showing it's water change time. Things like Prime can "neutralise" ammonia spikes for a short period but it's just a band aid and really water changes are the best fix.

I have learned over too many years, sometimes the hard way, that there are no shortcuts to any endeavor regardless of what that endeavor is.

GaryE said:

The thread double posted, and in the second, deleted version, you said you had done a water change. So now, you need to do a test of the tap outside the aquarium, to see if you have a tap water problem.

Click to expand...

Ok this are the water parameters of my tap water

High Range PH ................ 7.4
Ammonia ......................... 0.25
Nitrite ................................ 0
Nitrate .................................0

You need to let some tap water stand overnight and test pH again. pH often changes when tap water is allowed to stand. Since the water in the tank is not freshly run, it's the 'stood' pH we need to compare tank pH to.

If high range pH tests at 7.4, that's the lowest it can read so you need to use the other pH tester, labelled as 'pH'.

Essjay said:

You need to let some tap water stand overnight and test pH again. pH often changes when tap water is allowed to stand. Since the water in the tank is not freshly run, it's the 'stood' pH we need to compare tank pH to.

If high range pH tests at 7.4, that's the lowest it can read so you need to use the other pH tester, labelled as 'pH'.

Click to expand...

Ok

Essjay said:

You need to let some tap water stand overnight and test pH again. pH often changes when tap water is allowed to stand. Since the water in the tank is not freshly run, it's the 'stood' pH we need to compare tank pH to.

If high range pH tests at 7.4, that's the lowest it can read so you need to use the other pH tester, labelled as 'pH'.

Click to expand...

I just tested the normal PH n is 7.6

Everytime I test the PH Is always 7.6

So your pH reads the highest colour on the 'just' pH and the lowest colour on high range pH. That means it's approx 7.5 - it's not critical to 0.1 or 0.2.

After your tap water has stood for 24 hours, test it again with both testers.

Essjay said:

So your pH reads the highest colour on the 'just' pH and the lowest colour on high range pH. That means it's approx 7.5 - it's not critical to 0.1 or 0.2.

After your tap water has stood for 24 hours, test it again with both testers.

Click to expand...

Ok

If you do regular water changes you should not have any ammonia. My tank is heavily overstocked. I change 35% of the water every 7 days, at which time I also clean the filter media in tank water. I always dose the tank with 'Prime' with every water change. Don't overfeed, as fish do not need that much food. I only feed 3 times a week. I am surprised to see nitrates at 0 as there are nitrates in the tap water supplied by the water company.