A Walstad Tank...

connorlindeman said:

Would that work for fully aquatic plants or no?

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Byron said:

I'm not certain, but it should be covered in the procedures linked previously. The majority of our aquarium plants are, in their habitat, marsh or bog plants, some also call them amphibious plants. Echinodorus (sword plants) for example usually occur in habitats that are dry for six months, and under water for six months. They form different structured leaves for each, which is why these plants when purchased and put in an aquarium will slowly lose their outer leaves and develop new leaves that look and are structured differently.

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davros said:

They claim the soil gets replenished from the stuff dropping out of the water but if the sand is in between how does that even work?

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davros said:

They claim the soil gets replenished from the stuff dropping out of the water but if the sand is in between how does that even work?

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Byron said:

It doesn't work. Soil no matter how it is used, is completely exhausted within one year of any nutritive value. Diana is very clear about that. At that point, soil has no benefits whatsoever. If you had inert sand it would be just the same, the main reason I have never messed with soil, Diana maintains that you either continue with using fertilizers (liquid and/or tabs, depending), or you tear the tank down and restart. Suitable sand or fine gravel substrates will have an equal level of nutrient value after one year, no difference from soil.

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WhistlingBadger said:

The only value I can see with soil is that the nutrients and CO2 being released give the plants a really good start. That said, I doubt I'll bother with it in the future, even in Walstad style tanks.

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Just Add Water said:

Question, would Fluval Bio Stratum be considered a soil and spike more ammonia at first and loose it’s nutrients after a year?

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WhistlingBadger said:

I've never had any luck with dwarf hairgrass, so I would definitely use PCS if it were me. Another one I've had really good luck with is clover fern, Marsillia crenata. That's the only carpet plant I've ever had that actually made a carpet. Takes it a while to change to its underwater form, though, so it requires some patience.

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Byron said:

On the "carpet" plants, I agree that the chain swords will be more likely to do well. :Carpeting" plants are farthest from the light, so you need more intense lighting for most of them, and with that goes more nutrients and CO2 is often the first to be depleted. And all of these things, bee it more intense light, CO2 or more nutrient dosing do negatively impact fish.

I had good luck with the chain swords for years. Photo below is my 40g, showing the explosion of this plant if left alone. I had low-moderate light because I have always been more concerned with fish health than plants. And a comprehensive liquid supplement balanced with the light supplied all the plants needed. Just a couple plants will easily spread throughout the aquarium if conditions are to their liking.

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