A Walstad Tank...

Filled up the tank with dechlorinated water and added the heater. Just a simple 50w preset to 78. I know that presets arent the greatest but I've had a good experience with this model.
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Would that work for fully aquatic plants or no?

I'm not certain, but it should be covered in the procedures linked previously. The majority of our aquarium plants are, in their habitat, marsh or bog plants, some also call them amphibious plants. Echinodorus (sword plants) for example usually occur in habitats that are dry for six months, and under water for six months. They form different structured leaves for each, which is why these plants when purchased and put in an aquarium will slowly lose their outer leaves and develop new leaves that look and are structured differently.
 
I'm not certain, but it should be covered in the procedures linked previously. The majority of our aquarium plants are, in their habitat, marsh or bog plants, some also call them amphibious plants. Echinodorus (sword plants) for example usually occur in habitats that are dry for six months, and under water for six months. They form different structured leaves for each, which is why these plants when purchased and put in an aquarium will slowly lose their outer leaves and develop new leaves that look and are structured differently.
Ok. Thanks a lot for your help!
 
They claim the soil gets replenished from the stuff dropping out of the water but if the sand is in between how does that even work?
 
They claim the soil gets replenished from the stuff dropping out of the water but if the sand is in between how does that even work?
Good question. I'm not sure how it works. But it often does. I've had walstad tanks run for multiple years with thriving plant growth, even nutrient hogs like amazon swords, and no ferts. I've had others that required me to start adding ferts after a year or two. I really think it depends on the specific soil, the plants, and the water chemistry.
 
They claim the soil gets replenished from the stuff dropping out of the water but if the sand is in between how does that even work?

It doesn't work. Soil no matter how it is used, is completely exhausted within one year of any nutritive value. Diana is very clear about that. At that point, soil has no benefits whatsoever. If you had inert sand it would be just the same, the main reason I have never messed with soil, Diana maintains that you either continue with using fertilizers (liquid and/or tabs, depending), or you tear the tank down and restart. Suitable sand or fine gravel substrates will have an equal level of nutrient value after one year, no difference from soil.
 
It doesn't work. Soil no matter how it is used, is completely exhausted within one year of any nutritive value. Diana is very clear about that. At that point, soil has no benefits whatsoever. If you had inert sand it would be just the same, the main reason I have never messed with soil, Diana maintains that you either continue with using fertilizers (liquid and/or tabs, depending), or you tear the tank down and restart. Suitable sand or fine gravel substrates will have an equal level of nutrient value after one year, no difference from soil.
The only value I can see with soil is that the nutrients and CO2 being released give the plants a really good start. That said, I doubt I'll bother with it in the future, even in Walstad style tanks.
 
The only value I can see with soil is that the nutrients and CO2 being released give the plants a really good start. That said, I doubt I'll bother with it in the future, even in Walstad style tanks.

Very true, you're bang on the mark. :good: It is the initial CO2 that differs, but that's as far as it goes.
 
Question, would Fluval Bio Stratum be considered a soil and spike more ammonia at first and loose it’s nutrients after a year?
 
Currently trying to decide which carpeting plant to go with.
Pygmy chain swords or dwarf hair grass?
What's your guy's opinion?
 
I've never had any luck with dwarf hairgrass, so I would definitely use PCS if it were me. Another one I've had really good luck with is clover fern, Marsillia crenata. That's the only carpet plant I've ever had that actually made a carpet. Takes it a while to change to its underwater form, though, so it requires some patience.
 
Question, would Fluval Bio Stratum be considered a soil and spike more ammonia at first and loose it’s nutrients after a year?

I've never used Stratum, perhaps others who have can comment. But I have never felt a need for these substrates, they are terribly expensive and their value is questionable. And, many substrate fish such as cories should absolutely never be kept over any so-called plant substrate, with or without a cap of sand. Aside from possible roughness, there is a serious bacterial issue and substrate fish being down there are more susceptible. Bacteria is a more prevalent cause of barbel loss than the roughness, though that is another cause.

As for losing nutrients, any product that (allegedly) releases nutrients for plants will at some point become exhausted of those nutrients.
 
I've never had any luck with dwarf hairgrass, so I would definitely use PCS if it were me. Another one I've had really good luck with is clover fern, Marsillia crenata. That's the only carpet plant I've ever had that actually made a carpet. Takes it a while to change to its underwater form, though, so it requires some patience.
Good information.

I’ve tried dwarf hair grad in another tank and it didn’t go so well so you’re probably right.
I’ve got a guy I can get the Pygmy chain swords from for a buck a piece. Im gonna have to see if he’s got enough in stock.

That clover fern looks good too. I’m gonna read up on that.

Thanks!
 
On the "carpet" plants, I agree that the chain swords will be more likely to do well. :Carpeting" plants are farthest from the light, so you need more intense lighting for most of them, and with that goes more nutrients and CO2 is often the first to be depleted. And all of these things, bee it more intense light, CO2 or more nutrient dosing do negatively impact fish.

I had good luck with the chain swords for years. Photo below is my 40g, showing the explosion of this plant if left alone. I had low-moderate light because I have always been more concerned with fish health than plants. And a comprehensive liquid supplement balanced with the light supplied all the plants needed. Just a couple plants will easily spread throughout the aquarium if conditions are to their liking.
 

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On the "carpet" plants, I agree that the chain swords will be more likely to do well. :Carpeting" plants are farthest from the light, so you need more intense lighting for most of them, and with that goes more nutrients and CO2 is often the first to be depleted. And all of these things, bee it more intense light, CO2 or more nutrient dosing do negatively impact fish.

I had good luck with the chain swords for years. Photo below is my 40g, showing the explosion of this plant if left alone. I had low-moderate light because I have always been more concerned with fish health than plants. And a comprehensive liquid supplement balanced with the light supplied all the plants needed. Just a couple plants will easily spread throughout the aquarium if conditions are to their liking.
Ok, I think I’ll go with the Pygmy swords.
I always love when you share pictures of your tanks. They are a huge inspiration for me.
 

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