Hospital tank discussion

Rhys19

Fish Crazy
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
212
Reaction score
54
Location
Missouri, United States
so I've had some questions alot of which were answered in my new to fishkeeping post but I'll post some other questions here instead of there

Should I do weekly WC as if their were fish in there?
Should I keep atleast 1 fish in there to keep the ecosystem going? like say a creek minnow?
now as for filtration:
I have 1 tiny sponge filter & 1 regular filter that uses activated carbon it's a little tiny filter (smaller than the sponge filter)

What temp should I keep this QT tank at? (78-79 *F or 80-86*F?)

if I have any other questions I will post them
 
I have a hospital tank, with all the equipment ready to go.
It doesn't have water in it or anything else.
It's a hospital tank, for emergencies only.
If needs be, I can set it all up within half an hour or less.
The filter doesn't need to be cycled, because I'll be using mechanical filtration and, if needs be, chemical.

Let's say you set it all up as a nano tank, just in case you need to use it as a hospital tank.
What would you do with the inmates?
How would you know it was sterile?

Once you've used it, you'll need to probably give it a very good cleaning, if not sterilisation. (So setting up beneficial bacteria would be a pointless exercise...plus, many treatments would kill the BB anyway).

(Remember what I said about you NOT turning it into a nano tank? ;)
 
I have a hospital tank, with all the equipment ready to go.
It doesn't have water in it or anything else.
It's a hospital tank, for emergencies only.
If needs be, I can set it all up within half an hour or less.
The filter doesn't need to be cycled, because I'll be using mechanical filtration and, if needs be, chemical.

Let's say you set it all up as a nano tank, just in case you need to use it as a hospital tank.
What would you do with the inmates?
How would you know it was sterile?

Once you've used it, you'll need to probably give it a very good cleaning, if not sterilisation. (So setting up beneficial bacteria would be a pointless exercise...plus, many treatments would kill the BB anyway).

(Remember what I said about you NOT turning it into a nano tank? ;)
how about a quarantine tank? I was thinking about one when my main tank got ich...
 
how about a quarantine tank? I was thinking about one when my main tank got ich...
The same.
I'd only be using a quarantine tank for a month or two, at the very most. For that duration and the number of fish involved, mechanical filtration should be sufficient...and all for the same ideas behind the Hospital Tank.
As I'm not in the habit of having to keep buying more fish, to replace the ones I've killed, a Quarantine Tank should get as much use as a Hospital Tank.
 
The same.
I'd only be using a quarantine tank for a month or two, at the very most. For that duration and the number of fish involved, mechanical filtration should be sufficient...and all for the same ideas behind the Hospital Tank.
As I'm not in the habit of having to keep buying more fish, to replace the ones I've killed, a Quarantine Tank should get as much use as a Hospital Tank.
good to know, so then I wouldn't need to keep it operational only bring it up a few hours before I move my "Sick" or my "new" fish to it?

and the sponge filter would still work, right? I just thought BB would help wonders in healing but if the medication would kill it off then I guess what's the point?
 
good to know, so then I wouldn't need to keep it operational only bring it up a few hours before I move my "Sick" or my "new" fish to it?

and the sponge filter would still work, right? I just thought BB would help wonders in healing but if the medication would kill it off then I guess what's the point?
Yes...and you sussed the point about BB and meds. ;)

You have your filtration sorted out, just make sure you have a thermometer that allows you to adjust the temperature.

Plants are also a useful addition, mainly for a sense of security. A hospital/Quarantine Tank would be the only occasion I'd use artificial plants and I had silk ones, that couldn't accidentally scratch the fish.
 
Yes...and you sussed the point about BB and meds. ;)
what do you mean by that?

You have your filtration sorted out, just make sure you have a thermometer that allows you to adjust the temperature.
I don't have an extra heater with an adjustable temp knob yet working on getting one to keep with it.

Plants are also a useful addition, mainly for a sense of security. A hospital/Quarantine Tank would be the only occasion I'd use artificial plants and I had silk ones, that couldn't accidentally scratch the fish.
so fake ones then got it, and try and fine ones that are silk so they can't scratch the fish?
 
what do you mean by that?
Simple enough...I mean that you understand my points.
I don't have an extra heater with an adjustable temp knob yet working on getting one to keep with it.
Good plan. Makes sense if you think about it. Some illnesses need an increased temperature, sometimes rising over a couple of days. An adjustable heater will allow you to do that.
so fake ones then got it, and try and fine ones that are silk so they can't scratch the fish?
Yep...we know plants make fish feel more secure, but you wouldn't want anything that might react badly to meds, or carry something over from the main tank, etc. Plastic are generally safe enough even for the most poorly of fish, but if you can afford silk, then there's no way the fish can be accidentally damaged by them. You can also wash them, post-treatment, for the next patient.
 
I consider a hospital tank and a quarantine tank for new fish to be very different things, and it is best to approach them as such. The hospital tank you need for a sick fish that may need some treatment, but keep in mind that this is not going to be productive most of the time. If a fish has a definite issue that is confined to the fish and no others, a hospital tank may help. But contagious issues which frankly are the vast majority need to be treated in the main tank. I have an empty (no water) dry 10g sitting empty on a shelf with a sponge filter (obviously not holding any bacteria as it is dry) and a heater and a piece of artificial branch for shelter; I have only used this tank once in 30 years.

A QT for new fish should, if at all possible, be a running tank that has floating plants, sand substrate (thin layer), and some shelter like wood or rock or whatever. It should be something of a "display" tank so the fish are introduced to an environment that replicates the actual display tank, because this will settle them down much faster, thereby avoiding many issues like ich. If the fish in this tank do show signs of "x" disease, they can be treated appropriately, or usually just left to deal with it on their own. If the environment is one they require, the latter is most often what actually happens.
 
so just out of curiosity what if all my fish needed to be put in the hospital tank? Ik at this point it would just be easier to dose the main tank but just for my curiosity if I had to would the 3 gal even be able to handle it with that tiny sponge filter? and with as small as it is... common pleco (Not very big at all like less than an inch) CAE (More of an inch long probably longer), (Guppy) and then soon other fish?

Again I KNOW it would be better to dose the main tank at that time but I am just curious ;)
 
so just out of curiosity what if all my fish needed to be put in the hospital tank? Ik at this point it would just be easier to dose the main tank but just for my curiosity if I had to would the 3 gal even be able to handle it with that tiny sponge filter? and with as small as it is... common pleco (Not very big at all like less than an inch) CAE (More of an inch long probably longer), (Guppy) and then soon other fish?

Again I KNOW it would be better to dose the main tank at that time but I am just curious ;)
I'm thinking you've just answered your own question. ;)

Also, remember that some diseases are contagious and, by the time the symptoms are showing in one fish, it's safe to assume that the tank has it.

On the other fin, (just to muddy the waters a little), just the one fish might be showing symptoms, because just the one fish is particularly stressed. This is one of the many reasons that it pays to familiarise yourself with your fish, so you can hopefully spot the one most harassed by others, for example.

Personally, if it's a contagious disease, I would assume the tank has it. I would also assume that there will be some global tank issue that facilitated the disease to show itself and that this will also need to be discovered and addressed.
 
Agree. I thought I'd mentioned this somewhere, but hospital tanks would never be intended for all the fish in a given tank. Treating an issue on one or maybe two fish might be better in a hospital tank, but not for some obviously contagious problem (like ich or velvet, but there are others, like bacterial infections such as columnaris and others that can spread in the water).
 
so just out of curiosity what if all my fish needed to be put in the hospital tank? Ik at this point it would just be easier to dose the main tank but just for my curiosity if I had to would the 3 gal even be able to handle it with that tiny sponge filter? and with as small as it is... common pleco (Not very big at all like less than an inch) CAE (More of an inch long probably longer), (Guppy) and then soon other fish?

Again I KNOW it would be better to dose the main tank at that time but I am just curious ;)

Along with the points @Bruce Leyland-Jones and @Byron made about needing to treat the main tank when there is an illness affecting your whole stock (and I concur) you also need to have a hospital or quarantine tank that is a suitable size for the fish you have/intend to quarantine in it.

A three gallon tank would be fine to have as a hospital or quarantine tank for someone who keeps nano species or something like a betta. But when you're talking larger species, fish with a high bioload (like common plecos!) or a large number of fish, you need to scale up the size of the tank accordingly. No, a three gallon with a tiny sponge filter would not be suitable to treat or quarantine your common pleco (even if still a juvenile) or a CAE.

For most people, a 10-20 g is perfectly adequate for their needs, but the larger the fish and the greater the amount of them, a larger quarantine/hospital set up is needed. If fish are to be quarantined for a month (I prefer a month, but some people follow a two week quarantine) then they need to be comfortable, and you don't to be increasing stress by having them in a cramped space, with poor water conditions. Fish that are stressed have a lowered immune system and are thus weaker and less able to fight off any disease you are trying to treat, and less able to handle being dosed with meds.
 
WARNING: This will be another of my usual essay type posts, for those who want to skip! ;)

My previous set up, and my current set up/plans for hospital/quarantine/nursery/temporary holding tanks (which are different things, as Byron said, and need different considerations!) in case this answers any of your questions, or you pick up any tips. :)

For a long time I used a proper glass 12 gallon tank as a quarantine tank, a hospital tank and a grow out/nursery tank, at different times. Personally I don't love having a permanent tank set up for myself; unless you're going to be doing a lot of quarantining of new fish, or you're breeding fish and need a separate tank to raise fry. Then it's worth having a proper tank set up all the time. Now that I don't breed livebearers anymore, I've got rid of that tank, and use a food-safe plastic tote, that I can turn into a 'cycled' temporary tank in about 30 mins, as @Bruce Leyland-Jones does.

Whether a fish is sick or new fish are going to be quarantined for a while - after going through the stress of being shipped, in a store tank, then moved to your quarantine - you have to think of how best to make the environment as comfortable and stress free for the fish as possible; while also being able to observe and medicate the fish if needed. So things like substrate, hiding places like decor, hardscape and plants -especially floating plants that make fish feel safer from predation while helping with water quality - can really help, and are essential to my mind. But they also need to be items you can either sterilise after use, or don't mind disposing of, should the new/sick fish have a disease that you really don't want to transfer to a main tank. So don't use a favourite piece of wood, or expensive substrate and plants you want to keep!

Water quality is of course important. Most of my main tanks have two filters, along with heavy live planting. I do this to keep the water as pristine as possible, but also because I can easily pinch a sponge filter from one of those tanks to set up a quarantine tank at any time, without having to keep it running and cycled on a permanent quarantine tank, and the second filter plus plants in my main tanks means they're fine even when I take the sponge filter out. You need to be doing frequent water changes whether fish are sick or in quarantine, and also because while this tank may be somewhat "cycled", it is still not a fully established, stable tank. Cycled and established are very different things.

That sponge filter from an established tank is then basically used as a seeded cycle for the new, temporary set up. I use a food-safe tote like this;
storagebox.jpg


Just for fish-stuff. When not in use, it holds spare decor, extra heater (with heater guard, so it doesn't melt the plastic when rested on some stones!) and when half filled with water it holds 20 gallons. Plenty for my needs, and also not a huge amount of water to medicate if needed. When needed I set it up on top of a dark surface, so the fish have the sense of a substrate (bare bottom tanks can sometimes cause stress), or can add some spare gravel or sand that I don't mind binning afterwards.
I add the heater with guard, the stolen sponge filter, and an airstone. There, temporary set up ready for fish! :D

(can also be used as a breeding tank, for when you want to breed some fish and save the eggs that wouldn't otherwise make it if the fish were bred in the main tank).

I have some spare decor I no longer use stored away - small stones, small pieces of wood from old scapes, cheesy "no fishing" ornaments I was gifted but would never put in my main tanks -and silk plants I bought from the "reduced, clearing stock" bargain bin at the LFS :) Most of that stuff except for the wood and stones can be sterilised in a mild bleach solution after use, then stored for next time.

I take cuttings from plants in my main tanks to add to the quarantine tote. All stuff that I don't mind throwing away after use; because I don't want to lose my expensive, slow growing plants, and I don't want to risk putting anything from quarantine back into my main tanks. Fast growing stem plants like elodea, l.sessiliflora, water wisteria etc are perfect for this, and floating plants produce enough spares that I need to throw away handfuls of the stuff - so there's always plenty to spare for quarantine when needed.

This way I don't need to worry about keeping a spare set up cycled between use, or the temptation to turn a proper tank into another display tank! It has enough space, equipment, live plants and low lighting for fish to feel secure and de-stress. Enough water volume that with water changes, ammonia spikes aren't a concern the way they would be in a three gallon, and I can whip it out and put it anywhere when needed, and not have it taking up space while not looking terribly pretty when not in use.
 
WARNING: This will be another of my usual essay type posts, for those who want to skip! ;)

My previous set up, and my current set up/plans for hospital/quarantine/nursery/temporary holding tanks (which are different things, as Byron said, and need different considerations!) in case this answers any of your questions, or you pick up any tips. :)

For a long time I used a proper glass 12 gallon tank as a quarantine tank, a hospital tank and a grow out/nursery tank, at different times. Personally I don't love having a permanent tank set up for myself; unless you're going to be doing a lot of quarantining of new fish, or you're breeding fish and need a separate tank to raise fry. Then it's worth having a proper tank set up all the time. Now that I don't breed livebearers anymore, I've got rid of that tank, and use a food-safe plastic tote, that I can turn into a 'cycled' temporary tank in about 30 mins, as @Bruce Leyland-Jones does.

Whether a fish is sick or new fish are going to be quarantined for a while - after going through the stress of being shipped, in a store tank, then moved to your quarantine - you have to think of how best to make the environment as comfortable and stress free for the fish as possible; while also being able to observe and medicate the fish if needed. So things like substrate, hiding places like decor, hardscape and plants -especially floating plants that make fish feel safer from predation while helping with water quality - can really help, and are essential to my mind. But they also need to be items you can either sterilise after use, or don't mind disposing of, should the new/sick fish have a disease that you really don't want to transfer to a main tank. So don't use a favourite piece of wood, or expensive substrate and plants you want to keep!

Water quality is of course important. Most of my main tanks have two filters, along with heavy live planting. I do this to keep the water as pristine as possible, but also because I can easily pinch a sponge filter from one of those tanks to set up a quarantine tank at any time, without having to keep it running and cycled on a permanent quarantine tank, and the second filter plus plants in my main tanks means they're fine even when I take the sponge filter out. You need to be doing frequent water changes whether fish are sick or in quarantine, and also because while this tank may be somewhat "cycled", it is still not a fully established, stable tank. Cycled and established are very different things.

That sponge filter from an established tank is then basically used as a seeded cycle for the new, temporary set up. I use a food-safe tote like this;View attachment 143019

Just for fish-stuff. When not in use, it holds spare decor, extra heater (with heater guard, so it doesn't melt the plastic when rested on some stones!) and when half filled with water it holds 20 gallons. Plenty for my needs, and also not a huge amount of water to medicate if needed. When needed I set it up on top of a dark surface, so the fish have the sense of a substrate (bare bottom tanks can sometimes cause stress), or can add some spare gravel or sand that I don't mind binning afterwards.
I add the heater with guard, the stolen sponge filter, and an airstone. There, temporary set up ready for fish! :D

(can also be used as a breeding tank, for when you want to breed some fish and save the eggs that wouldn't otherwise make it if the fish were bred in the main tank).

I have some spare decor I no longer use stored away - small stones, small pieces of wood from old scapes, cheesy "no fishing" ornaments I was gifted but would never put in my main tanks -and silk plants I bought from the "reduced, clearing stock" bargain bin at the LFS :) Most of that stuff except for the wood and stones can be sterilised in a mild bleach solution after use, then stored for next time.

I take cuttings from plants in my main tanks to add to the quarantine tote. All stuff that I don't mind throwing away after use; because I don't want to lose my expensive, slow growing plants, and I don't want to risk putting anything from quarantine back into my main tanks. Fast growing stem plants like elodea, l.sessiliflora, water wisteria etc are perfect for this, and floating plants produce enough spares that I need to throw away handfuls of the stuff - so there's always plenty to spare for quarantine when needed.

This way I don't need to worry about keeping a spare set up cycled between use, or the temptation to turn a proper tank into another display tank! It has enough space, equipment, live plants and low lighting for fish to feel secure and de-stress. Enough water volume that with water changes, ammonia spikes aren't a concern the way they would be in a three gallon, and I can whip it out and put it anywhere when needed, and not have it taking up space while not looking terribly pretty when not in use.
I did read through btw and I would like to say I love the idea of the tote! their cheap, affordable, and easy to clean! I mean I guess tanks are too but carrying a 10-20 gallon tank like outside or somewhere where there is a drain would be a pain whereas a tote is light & easy to lift ;)

in fact, they sell them at Walmart for like $10!
 

Most reactions

Back
Top