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Help with betta (fin damage, possible fin rot)

Noelevee said:
Oh I thought you meant a tetra filter lol. I think thats just a fleck of a leaf or something. No tetras for me. Just Barry. I'm overwhelmed by one fish lol

Also thank you for the filter advice. It's confusing with all of this because the box says to change it every two weeks and I'm just trying to read up as much as I can to decipher what's true. I had no idea it would be this much time and info for one small fish! Oy luckily I can afford it right now.
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Don't worry, the first year or so of fishkeeping is a steep learning curve! There's so much to learn, it can feel overwhelming at times! You'll pick it up. :) @essjay is right, those filters that have cartridges are a bit of a con. Not really helpful to remove and replace media, and it gets expensive! Once people have been in the hobby for a while, they quickly learn how to modify filters so they work better, and you're not throwing away beneficial bacteria along with your cash. It's in the manufacturers interest for people to have to buy new product from them every month, of course they say to replace it often. They're not gonna tell you that you don't need to run carbon all the time, or that you're better off replacing their media with plain old filter sponges that will last for years :lol:

Have a listen to this video when you get chance. It's pretty long, but Cory goes into detail about 'optimising' filters... replacing media and things just like Essjay and I are saying, including for hang on back filters like yours.
 
AdoraBelle Dearheart said:
Don't worry, the first year or so of fishkeeping is a steep learning curve! There's so much to learn, it can feel overwhelming at times! You'll pick it up. :) @essjay is right, those filters that have cartridges are a bit of a con. Not really helpful to remove and replace media, and it gets expensive! Once people have been in the hobby for a while, they quickly learn how to modify filters so they work better, and you're not throwing away beneficial bacteria along with your cash. It's in the manufacturers interest for people to have to buy new product from them every month, of course they say to replace it often. They're not gonna tell you that you don't need to run carbon all the time, or that you're better off replacing their media with plain old filter sponges that will last for years :lol:

Have a listen to this video when you get chance. It's pretty long, but Cory goes into detail about 'optimising' filters... replacing media and things just like Essjay and I are saying, including for hang on back filters like yours.
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Gotcha thanks for explaining!! I’m wondering if you would do a salt treatment If this was your fish? Or just water changes.
 
Noelevee said:
Gotcha thanks for explaining!! I’m wondering if you would do a salt treatment If this was your fish? Or just water changes.
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What size tank is it?
Firstly I'd check the tank for any decor or fake plants or anything that might tear his fins and cause damage, even if only minor damage that allows infection in. Also make sure the filter input isn't strong enough to suck him against it, and the output isn't so strong that he has to fight current. Bettas don't like current, and fighting against a strong-ish current would stretch his fins out more, leading to micro-tears, which allow bacteria an entry point. A sponge filter is really ideal for a betta, in my opinion - but bear in mind that I don't keep bettas, so I'm no expert.

My go to treatment first would be daily 50% changes, just as essay said. Clean water is key to dealing with any problem with fish, whether it's bacterial, fungal, fin rot, anything. Even if fighting a disease that needs medication, fish are able to fight off diseases and bacteria much more easily in clean fresh water. By doing those changes and syphoning the substrate, you're not only keeping ammonia/nitrites/nitrates low, but you're physically removing a lot of bacteria and fungal spores that your fish is vulnerable to while sick. You're giving him the best environment for his immune system to fight off the infection that is eating at his tail (if it is fin rot).

I'd do this for a week or two before moving to salt treatment, which would be my next step if I wasn't seeing any improvement after around two weeks, or if he was getting much worse. I do love salt treatment since salt is an excellent anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and even helps against some external parasites. Salt treatment and water changes saved my fish who lost her tail in an accident and developed fungus.

But even during salt treatment, I did 50% daily water changes, and re-dosed the salt according to the amount of water I was removing/replacing, since the same principles of clean fresh water and reducing bacteria/fungus in the tank still applies, even with the salt.

Only if water changes and then salt treatment failed would I move on to trying medication.
 
AdoraBelle Dearheart said:
What size tank is it?
Firstly I'd check the tank for any decor or fake plants or anything that might tear his fins and cause damage, even if only minor damage that allows infection in. Also make sure the filter input isn't strong enough to suck him against it, and the output isn't so strong that he has to fight current. Bettas don't like current, and fighting against a strong-ish current would stretch his fins out more, leading to micro-tears, which allow bacteria an entry point. A sponge filter is really ideal for a betta, in my opinion - but bear in mind that I don't keep bettas, so I'm no expert.

My go to treatment first would be daily 50% changes, just as essay said. Clean water is key to dealing with any problem with fish, whether it's bacterial, fungal, fin rot, anything. Even if fighting a disease that needs medication, fish are able to fight off diseases and bacteria much more easily in clean fresh water. By doing those changes and syphoning the substrate, you're not only keeping ammonia/nitrites/nitrates low, but you're physically removing a lot of bacteria and fungal spores that your fish is vulnerable to while sick. You're giving him the best environment for his immune system to fight off the infection that is eating at his tail (if it is fin rot).

I'd do this for a week or two before moving to salt treatment, which would be my next step if I wasn't seeing any improvement after around two weeks, or if he was getting much worse. I do love salt treatment since salt is an excellent anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and even helps against some external parasites. Salt treatment and water changes saved my fish who lost her tail in an accident and developed fungus.

But even during salt treatment, I did 50% daily water changes, and re-dosed the salt according to the amount of water I was removing/replacing, since the same principles of clean fresh water and reducing bacteria/fungus in the tank still applies, even with the salt.

Only if water changes and then salt treatment failed would I move on to trying medication.
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Ahh thank you!! I really needed to hear all of this info the way you put it. Makes so much sense the way you’re thinking.

His tail was looking a bit frayed for about a month but the past few days it got way worse all the sudden so that’s why I’m springing into action and uping the water changes and ordering all of the extra stuff. It wasn’t any worse today so I’ll just closely monitor him for now but I have the salt on standby.

Take is 2.5 gallon.. There’s some live plants in there but no decor or fake plants and the filter is super mellow. He never goes by it. His energy is pretty normal besides resting a bit more so that’s good. He ate well and comes up to say hi lol.

Thanks again for your help!! I’m glad your fish made it through that! :)
 

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Noelevee said:
Ahh thank you!! I really needed to hear all of this info the way you put it. Makes so much sense the way you’re thinking.

His tail was looking a bit frayed for about a month but the past few days it got way worse all the sudden so that’s why I’m springing into action and uping the water changes and ordering all of the extra stuff. It wasn’t any worse today so I’ll just closely monitor him for now but I have the salt on standby.

Take is 2.5 gallon.. There’s some live plants in there but no decor or fake plants and the filter is super mellow. He never goes by it. His energy is pretty normal besides resting a bit more so that’s good. He ate well and comes up to say hi lol.

Thanks again for your help!! I’m glad your fish made it through that! :)
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No problem, I'm really happy if I could help! At least it's easy to do large water changes on a 2.5 gallon tank ;)
The downside though is that ammonia and other nasties build up much faster in such a small volume of water, so a larger tank is easier to keep stable, clean water conditions. I'd think about upgrading to something between 5-10 gallons in the long term, and keep this one as a hospital tank, if possible.

If he's in the 2.5 gallon, regular large water changes will be essential, and it might mean more frequently than once or twice a week, sometimes it might mean daily changes, depending on water test results and feeding etc. be careful not to over feed, as that'll pollute the water faster.

You need to be able to test the water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. pH doesn't matter as much as these things, and the liquid test kits are the most accurate. Liquid kits like the API master test kit that I and most others here use seem expensive, but you get a lot more tests from them than you do a tube full of dip strips, and dip strips wind up being more expensive when they don't give accurate results and you really need to know the right numbers, like when a fish is ill.

I hope he begins making a good recovery with the 50% daily changes - make sure to temperature match the new water to the tank water and use a water conditioner. Please keep us updated! :)
 
AdoraBelle Dearheart said:
No problem, I'm really happy if I could help! At least it's easy to do large water changes on a 2.5 gallon tank ;)
The downside though is that ammonia and other nasties build up much faster in such a small volume of water, so a larger tank is easier to keep stable, clean water conditions. I'd think about upgrading to something between 5-10 gallons in the long term, and keep this one as a hospital tank, if possible.

If he's in the 2.5 gallon, regular large water changes will be essential, and it might mean more frequently than once or twice a week, sometimes it might mean daily changes, depending on water test results and feeding etc. be careful not to over feed, as that'll pollute the water faster.

You need to be able to test the water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. pH doesn't matter as much as these things, and the liquid test kits are the most accurate. Liquid kits like the API master test kit that I and most others here use seem expensive, but you get a lot more tests from them than you do a tube full of dip strips, and dip strips wind up being more expensive when they don't give accurate results and you really need to know the right numbers, like when a fish is ill.

I hope he begins making a good recovery with the 50% daily changes - make sure to temperature match the new water to the tank water and use a water conditioner. Please keep us updated! :)
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for all your help!! He’s not getting worse so I think the water changes are already helping. I’ll keep you all updated! And I’ve been thinking about a new tank! It’s been a lot of unexpected spending so I’ll probably wait a little bit.. maybe later this month.. thanks! :)
 
AdoraBelle Dearheart said:
What size tank is it?
Firstly I'd check the tank for any decor or fake plants or anything that might tear his fins and cause damage, even if only minor damage that allows infection in. Also make sure the filter input isn't strong enough to suck him against it, and the output isn't so strong that he has to fight current. Bettas don't like current, and fighting against a strong-ish current would stretch his fins out more, leading to micro-tears, which allow bacteria an entry point. A sponge filter is really ideal for a betta, in my opinion - but bear in mind that I don't keep bettas, so I'm no expert.

My go to treatment first would be daily 50% changes, just as essay said. Clean water is key to dealing with any problem with fish, whether it's bacterial, fungal, fin rot, anything. Even if fighting a disease that needs medication, fish are able to fight off diseases and bacteria much more easily in clean fresh water. By doing those changes and syphoning the substrate, you're not only keeping ammonia/nitrites/nitrates low, but you're physically removing a lot of bacteria and fungal spores that your fish is vulnerable to while sick. You're giving him the best environment for his immune system to fight off the infection that is eating at his tail (if it is fin rot).

I'd do this for a week or two before moving to salt treatment, which would be my next step if I wasn't seeing any improvement after around two weeks, or if he was getting much worse. I do love salt treatment since salt is an excellent anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and even helps against some external parasites. Salt treatment and water changes saved my fish who lost her tail in an accident and developed fungus.

But even during salt treatment, I did 50% daily water changes, and re-dosed the salt according to the amount of water I was removing/replacing, since the same principles of clean fresh water and reducing bacteria/fungus in the tank still applies, even with the salt.

Only if water changes and then salt treatment failed would I move on to trying medication.
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@AdoraBelle Dearheart
Your whole first paragraph is spot on. ☆
(Well, the rest too :fun:) Maybe you should save your whole response as it is sure to come up again!
@Noelevee
That is one majestic fish. He would really thrive in a bigger tank, you would love watching him, too.
 
First, a test for nitrates, replacement of at least 40 percent of water and so far no drugs. Fish are weakened and may react poorly to blue bathing. Although it is better to change water by 20% in the morning and in the evening. Also, keep an eye on the heater so that there are no problems with it. Don't worry about water hardness. If the stiffness changes, then this will not be critical for the fish. The water hardness in the aquarium is probably close to that of tap water. (You don't use distilled water, do you?) Carry out changes every day for 3-5 days according to your possibilities. I hope you do not have this problem again, since it is very sad to watch these fish get sick.
 
GabrielleSimpsonC said:
First, a test for nitrates, replacement of at least 40 percent of water and so far no drugs. Fish are weakened and may react poorly to blue bathing. Although it is better to change water by 20% in the morning and in the evening. Also, keep an eye on the heater so that there are no problems with it. Don't worry about water hardness. If the stiffness changes, then this will not be critical for the fish. The water hardness in the aquarium is probably close to that of tap water. (You don't use distilled water, do you?) Carry out changes every day for 3-5 days according to your possibilities. I hope you do not have this problem again, since it is very sad to watch these fish get sick.
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Thank you for you help! That’s funny I’m doing that type of water change.. half in the am and half in the pm. Makes it more manageable with less water to change and slowly acclimates him to the new water so I figured it was a good idea! His fins don’t look any better so I’m thinking I may start salting soon.
 
Hey guys,

So unfortunately Barry’s tail is looking worse so I’ve started salting the tank. I’ve kept up on the water changes and gravel vac’d the bottom yesterday. I took out the delicate plants and quarantined them and just left one in there for him rest on and swim around :).. I’m still waiting for my master kit but I figure with all these water changes the parameters can’t be too bad..

Right now I’m just a bit bummed and stressed and wondering if I should buy medicine just in case but its starting to feel like endless stuff to buy..

He’s swimming around like normal and eating like normal so that’s good!! Here’s some pics of his tail.. it’s way more shredded looking :/ luckily his front fin is unaffected so far...
 

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Please, what tank is that, and can you take a couple of pictures of the filter?
Thanks!
 
vanalisa said:
Please, what tank is that, and can you take a couple of pictures of the filter?
Thanks!
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It’s a little tetra whisper filter.. seems to be working fine.. and it’s 2.5 gallon circular tank I think.. my friend gave it to me
 

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Noelevee said:
It’s a little tetra whisper filter.. seems to be working fine.. and it’s 2.5 gallon circular tank I think.. my friend gave it to me
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No heater in this because it’s so dang hot in my apartment but I have one coming soon for fall..
 
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